Before Mark Beaman made wine, he lived in East Africa without electricity or running water, hauled 55 gallons of water by oxcart, built a rainwater catchment system that occasionally got stolen, and vagabonded from Tanzania down to South Africa after his Peace Corps commitment ended. Then he got a haircut, put on a tie, and interviewed at a winery in Washington State.
In this episode of Read Between the Wines, Pierre Ferland travels to Sonoma, California to sit down with Mark Beaman, head winemaker at Kenwood Vineyards — a winery founded in 1970 on a pre-Prohibition site that still uses a 1906 barn as its tasting room, and the only producer with exclusive rights to fruit from the Jack London Ranch.
The Jack London Ranch is worth understanding before you press play. Jack London — the writer, the sailor, the oyster pirate — bought 1,000 acres on Sonoma Mountain at the turn of the century, planted eucalyptus trees for shipbuilding timber, built a house, wrote some of the most adventurous American fiction of his era, and died at 40. The eucalyptus trees are still there. So are the vineyards. And so is the unique geology — two colliding soil types from the Sonoma Volcanics sitting on a fault line of the San Andreas — that produces Cabernet, Zinfandel, Syrah, and Merlot that Mark has had exclusive access to for every vintage.
The conversation covers the Pacific Ocean's influence on Sonoma's diverse terroir, the difference between Pinot Noir from Burgundy and Russian River, the philosophy behind Kenwood's five wine ranges, and a glyphosate disinformation campaign targeting California wine that Mark traces back to its actual source — a laboratory in Colorado making money from the panic it created.
A bonus conversation with Mark covers barrel regime, cellaring potential across the full Kenwood portfolio, and the sustainability practices behind their California Certified Sustainable Winery certification — exclusively at readbetweenthewines.com.
Featuring: Kenwood Vineyards, Sonoma Valley, California, USA, Jack London Ranch, Cabernet Sauvignon, Zinfandel.