In 1995, a Burgundy producer did something nobody in the wine world had ever done: he took Robert Parker to court.
His name was François Faiveley. And for a young Pierre Ferland, still finding his way through the world of wine, that act of defiance against the most powerful critic on earth changed everything. Today, Pierre sits down with François's son.
In Episode 79 of Read Between the Wines, Pierre Ferland is joined by Erwan Faiveley — seventh generation, head of Domaine Faiveley since 2005, and steward of one of Burgundy's most singular legacies. Founded in 1825, Faiveley is one of only two estates in Burgundy — alongside Romanée-Conti — whose name is officially part of a Grand Cru appellation. The Clos des Cortons Faiveley monopole. A distinction earned through a legal battle in 1930 that nobody planned for and nobody has replicated since.
This is a deep, wide-ranging conversation: the two faces of Nuits-Saint-Georges and why its terroir is harder to understand than most people admit. The gravity-fed winery overhaul of 2007 and what it did to the tannin structure of Faiveley's reds. Oak used purely for tannin, never for flavour. Climate change, frost risk, and selecting vine material that ripens later. Tariffs, trade wars, and what 200 years of cycles teaches you about patience. Whether critics' scores still matter in Grand Cru Burgundy — and Erwan's answer is three words.
And then there's Rodin. In the middle of the cellar in Nuits-Saint-Georges sits one of 12 original casts of The Kiss. It's there because Faiveley's great-grandmother was the adopted daughter of Maurice Fenaille — Rodin's greatest patron, and the man who bankrolled the Domaine's most important vineyard acquisitions a century ago. Today, every centime of tasting fees at the Domaine goes to two places: the Château de Clos de Vougeot and the Musée Rodin in Paris.
"Winemaking is 90% work and 10% feeling," Erwan says. For a family in its 200th year, that ratio has never changed.
Featuring: Domaine Faiveley, Nuits-Saint-Georges, Burgundy, France, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Clos des Cortons, Grand Cru.