STANDARD H Podcast

Welcome back and if this is your first foray, welcome to the STANDARD H Podcast. My first guest for season two is Derek Keller - the founder and creator of 440 Gentleman Supply, a handmade leather goods company based in my home town of Raleigh, NC, so I was really eager to share Derek’s journey with all of you. He is a very dear friend of mine, so it only felt right kicking off Season 2 with our conversation.

We talk about his reason to hate Budweiser, using German military vehicles for marketing purposes, and why it’s important as a maker to make your vision as opposed to someone else’s vision.

I love the tongue & cheek approach with which he and his wife Jessie approach their business and you simply won’t meet a more genuine person. And if you’re ever in Raleigh, please visit the new space called Unlikely Professionals. I describe it as a retail oasis for all that you need and nothing you don’t.

STANDARD H:

www.standard-h.com

@standardh_

Follow Derek & his businesses:

@440gentlemansupply

@edgeofurge

@unlikelyprofessionals

Links:

Horween

District Leather Supply

Root & Branch - RDU Airport

Music:

@jensenreed

This week is the last for season one of the STANDARD H Podcast, but stay tuned sooner than later for season two to kick off. With that said, we end season one with guest, Josh Herman,a ceramic artist based here in San Diego, California. We met while I was working at Allen Edmonds and conversation just seemed to flow within minutes of meeting Josh. He has somewhat of a dry wit that alludes to a level of self deprivation that I appreciate while at the same time carries a certain nonchalance in his delivery that’s somewhere between humility and confidence which I also enjoy. This one takes several turns. We discuss his immersion in athletics as a child to undergoing and studying several variations of therapy all while ceramics was coming and going for Josh. We talk about the idea of how less teaching may can make you a better creative, the ins and outs of scaling a business when you’re a one man band, and also the inner struggles with whether to go on or not with the business. Self reflection and self awareness are crucial elements to this episode and how finding your tribe is so important and taking yourself too seriously won’t make you Picasso, but your experience stands a better chance of doing just that. I think you'll enjoy it.

Web Links:

Josh Herman Ceramics

Pitzer College

Radical Therapy

Hypnotherapy

Hakomi Therapy

Chef's Table (Netflix)

As a guy who has worked in apparel for roughly 20 years and certainly appreciates nice clothes and fine tailoring, there are several accounts I follow on Instagram posting men in suits - previous podcast guest Matt Hranek namely being one. Often I'd be scrolling my feed and photos of suits would stop me from going on. And a pattern began to form where I'd see the same name tagged in the photo: J.Mueser. The man behind that handle is this week's guest, Jake Mueser - a custom tailor in New York City outfitting some of the sharpest guys in the game. I had never met Jake before, but his work utterly intrigued me on a couple different levels. Not as many people are wearing suits these days. I used to joke while living in Los Angeles that there's only two people wearing suits in LA: lawyers and agents. And then there's the retail aspect. Competition is stiff with the likes of big names such as Ralph Lauren, Brooks Brothers and many others, frankly. But what I can tell you is Jake's work is different. It has its own style. We talk about skiing, punk rock, having realistic expectations makes for being a good customer, and how variety truly shapes life experience. What I really took away was when it comes to creating a bespoke suit, the art of collaboration really reigns supreme, and it's the relationship that is what connects the dots in the current digital age. I hope you enjoy all of the details discussed, because there sure are some gems in this one.

Web Links: 

J. Mueser

Fashion Institute of Technology (FIT)

Savile Row

Tommy Nutter

Fox Flannel

Harris Tweed

Mezzatorre Hotel

The first word that comes to mind when thinking of Clark Hipolito is "energy". I met Clark while running a clothing store in Raleigh North Carolina around 2003/2004, and I just remember him as one of the more positive energies I'd ever come across up to that point in my life. He was always the guy who gave you the hand shake followed by the bear hug and simply walked with an air of confidence, yes, but more importantly: positivity and enthusiasm. As the owner of The Art Company, he's an artist both of projects small and huge, both literally and figuratively. He's done small pieces for friends, he's painted standard polyurethane surfboards to look like they were made from wood...he's done murals on the sides of music venues while at the same time hand-picked to do a mural inside the Carolina Hurricanes arena when they first came to town. His road was paved, however, when a local restaurateur came calling which was piggybacked by a little show called Sex & the City. You can absolutely feel his energy when listening to him speak in this episode. His passion and ever-present drive to do what he loves is clear, and he's honestly one of a handful of people I try to see when I go back home to North Carolina. We talk about cars, watches, architecture, music, wine, and of course art and the ins and outs of how exactly Clark does what he does. We talk about the recession and how having the biggest house and owning too many things isn't really cracked up to what it's made out to be. He has an unabashed honesty, he's an active guy who talks with his hands, so the mic was on the move in this one, and his dog Phyllis makes an appearance or two, but this was a fun one, so I think you'll enjoy it.

Web Links:

The Art Company

Wine on Main

Triangle Wine Experience

Chris Craft Boats

Maxfield Parrish

Lettuce

Widespread Panic

Primus

9th Wonder

Anderson Paak

Kendrick Lamar

J Cole

Rapsody

Reynolds Wine

North Carolina Museum of Art

The first episode of the STANDARD H Podcast explored a brick and mortar business within the independent watch and fine jewelry world. Today’s guest is also in the world of watches, primarily focused on servicing those interested in collecting vintage timepieces. Eric Wind, owner of Wind Vintage operates a website displaying many of his watches, however, I feel the sweet spot for Eric is his personal relationships with collectors. He’s been in the watch game for a while now, namely having cut his teeth as a writer and contributor to HODINKEE. I sat down with Eric while in New York City this past June to discuss everything from writing speeches for Angelina Jolie, to now selling watches that cost six figures. We talk about golf, as well as cars - namely Porsche and how they may just parallel the watch market and Vice versa. It seems many of you are watch fans here, and this conversation really gets into the nitty gritty of the process behind buying a vintage timepiece from one of the more reputable vintage watch dealers today. So if you’re in the hunt, this should give you a bit of behind the scenes insight.

Web Links:



Wind Vintage

Christie’s

Patek Philippe 5711

Rowing Blazers

Omega Speedmaster Ultraman

Saxon & Parole

Fortuna

Brasserie Ruhlmann 

Matt Hranek’s bio is a lengthy one. To unfairly condense it, I could simply say he’s a photographer, author, producer, and recently launched the magazine, WM Brown. He’s somewhat of an epicurean polymath, cigar lover, wine enthusiast and arbiter of the timeless Barbour jacket. The list could certainly go on, but I’d really rather let him tell it. We talk about coffee, travel, and everything from 1960’s Volkswagen beetles to modern day Land Rovers. It was really a thrill to sit down to chat with Matt - someone many may consider to be larger than life. He’s always on the go, and he’s undeniably become one of the most influential lifestyle figures in today’s society, as we further ourselves into a digital age while still appreciating the past. This discussion felt like 15 minutes, so I think you’ll dig it.





Web Links:



WM Brown Magazine

A Man & His Watch

YOLO Journal

Leica

Hasselblad

The Rake

Sid Mashburn

Jake Mueser (J.Mueser)

Stephen Lewis (photographer)

Baccarat

Fox Brothers (Negroni Tweed)

I’ve known Max Quintavalle for roughly ten years. We met in Malibu while I was working at James Perse. He’s originally from Florence, Italy, and in 2012, he started Italy to the Max - his Italy-specific travel agency catering to high net worth individuals. We talk about What it’s actually like as a foreigner moving to the United States and what it’s like dealing with immigration while trying to start a business. The importance of personal connections and networking runs throughout the episode and how those two things ended up granting him his American Dream. He’s a man of many interests, and at 6‘ 4”, fitness is sure one of them. We discuss everything from what makes a good knife to how he fell in love with Ralph Lauren’s RRL denim. If you're looking to take a vacation to Italy, Max is your guy.

Web Links:

Italy to the Max

STANDARD H

Passion Fine Jewelry

Spyderco Knives

RRL from Ralph Lauren

Charles Harbison has been a friend of mine for what's nearly been 20 years. We worked together at Banana Republic in Raleigh, North Carolina where we became fast friends. He later moved to New York to study fashion, worked as a designer at several well-respected companies such as Jack Spade and Michael Kors. He was plucked to design & launch womenswear for Billy Reid. He later left to create Harbison - his modern line of clothing and accessories known best for its color blocking, and oh yeah, being worn by the likes of one Beyonce.

We talk about all of the ins and outs of starting a fashion label and what it’s like being an entrepreneur raising capital, having his lights shut off due to not being able to afford to pay his light bill, while at the same time being chosen to speak at the White House. Perpetually needing money to fuel the business would be an understatement and Charles has been through it all. If you are ever lucky enough to meet Charles, you will fast be electrified by his ear to ear grin that will no doubt be on his face, if not for his absolute enthusiasm for design, creativity and discovery.

He and I grab a coffee and/or a meal at some point in my routine visits to Los Angeles, and I always depart utterly inspired. He's truly a special soul I feel so fortunate to call a friend, so I think you'll enjoy this one.

Web Links:

HARBISON

North Carolina State University School of Textiles

Parsons School of Design

Stephen Burrows

Just Kids (Book)

Mondrian

Josef Albers

Brice Marden

Le Corbusier

Ikram

Barnes Museum

A Single Man (movie)

Nocturnal Animals (House)

It’s been 4 or 5 years since I met James Lamdin - founder & owner of Analog/Shift - a vintage watch dealer that started online, but is now stocking modern pieces and also works alongside shops such as Watches of Switzerland. Per usual, we first connected over Instagram, and have since met up in New York City when I’ve been in town. James was also a founding member of Red Bar Group - a Watch meetup in the NYC are that has grown to an astounding number of members and followers, all of which contribute to bolstering contributions to non-profits around their local area. James is clearly a Watch guy, but he’s also a car guy...and a car writer. He’s definitely no stranger to a good time, and our opening banter was meant for me to simply get levels for the recording, but instead I chose To leave it in as an added bonus of what can only be considered a glimpse into the personality that is James.

Web Links:

Analog/Shift

Rolex 1675 GMT

Red Bar Group

Oris Diver 65 Red Bar Limited Edition 

Autodromo

Hodinkee

Worn & Wound

Watchonista

Revolution

Noah Walker is one of only a handful of working architects that has captivated me over the last decade. And I can yet again thank social media for effectively making this episode happen. 

Noah and his firm, Walker Workshop, popped up on my Instagram feed several years ago and I have been a fan ever since. His ability to combine warmth with minimalism is really what draws me to his work, and in times when trends tend to become status quo, Noah’s designs truly exemplify the intersection dream and reality. 

Web Links:

Noah Walker

Tadao Ando

Kengo Kuma

Peter Zumthor

LACMA

Louis Kahn

Salk Institute

James Turrell

Mark Rothko

Oak Pass House

Frank Gehry

Glenn Murcutt