A traveller on the Hippy Trail in the 1970s, Alex McKay became bewitched by mysterious tales of Tibet’s holiest mountain, Mount Kailash. What began as a backpacker’s fixation eventually became an academic vocation. After studying Tibetan history and culture at London’s School of Oriental and African Studies, Alex earned a PhD in South Asian History and went on to publish four academic monographs and around forty scholarly articles, peeling back the layers of history and mythology surrounding a mountain revered by Hindus, Buddhists, Jains and followers of Bön.
But there were things academic writing couldn’t capture. As Alex writes in his latest book, In Search of Mount Kailash:
“An academic monograph can cite a century-old Tibetan letter but cannot show its author warming ink over a candle in a Himalayan winter; nor convey the historian unfolding it and watching Tibetan dust fall onto a polished library table.”
For that, Alex turned to travel writing. In Search of Mount Kailash retraces both his journeys through Tibet and the Himalayas and the decades-long intellectual journey that followed, exploring how the legends surrounding Kailash developed and what happens when scholarship collides with lived experience. The book won the 2025 Kekoo Naoroji Book Award for Himalayan Literature.
On today’s episode of the Travel Writing Podcast, Alex discusses what travel writing can reveal that scholarship cannot, the reaction to some of his more controversial discoveries about Kailash, the writers who inspired his own travels, and a lifetime of adventures in the Himalayas — including what it’s like to take LSD on a holy mountain.