The Achuar people first came into contact with the outside world sixty years ago. Since then, they have mostly been left in peace, able to take what they want from the modern world and leave the rest. That’s changing now. Their territory is under threat by careerist politicians within their own community, by other indigenous nations whose populations have exponentially increased thanks to contact with fossil fuels, and by industry who, every year, is figuring out how to penetrate even deeper into the forest.

I had the privilege of interviewing Chumpi Washikiat about these threats. Chumpi is an Achuar leader who has been instrumental in promoting their eco-tourism project as an alternative to extractivism. He is one of two of the thirty thousand strong Achuar who speak English, and I spent a few days with him near the village he grew up in. I watched him expertly debate his peers during a forum that lasted nine hours about which Presidential candidate would be best for indigenous nations in Ecuador. Floating down the river at dawn, I listened to stories of shamanism, learning how the Achuar inhabit the spirits of the forest. I heard the daily ceremony every morning when the Achuar arise before dawn to purge their bodies and interpret their dreams together. And, a few hours after this interview, Chumpi and I did an Ayahuasca ceremony together, listening to the voices of the Amazon echo across the lagoon.

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