Our host Philip Berman sits down with Marie-Jeanne Gaertner, project and policy officer at RREUSE (Reuse and Recycling European Union Social Enterprises) to find out why the textile reuse and recycling sector in the European Union is facing an unprecedented crisis.

Gaertner says that a recent open letter to the European Commission and member states, penned by RREUSE, explains why the sector is on the brink of financial collapse, with social enterprises bearing the brunt of this turmoil.

She notes how the current 'crisis', which has seen several notable business failures in 2024, is unlike any previously encountered.

She claims that up to 16% of the textiles collected in some regions are simply waste that cannot be used and will need to be disposed – at a significant financial cost.

She adds, “So now that there are more and more opportunities to resell products on a consumer-to-consumer basis, we observe that consumers tend to resell themselves the most valuable items and donate or throw out the non-reusable ones."

What's discussed:

• RREUSE represents over 1,200 social enterprises across 30 countries, all dedicated to collecting, sorting, and repurposing textiles.
• These enterprises collected approximately 337,000 tonnes of textiles in 2023.
• They are now struggling with a growing influx of low-quality donations due to ultra-fast fashion.
• Blames the textile recycling problems on overconsumption of low quality apparel.
• Says impending regulation will only add fuel to the fire.
• Talks about required financing mechanisms to keep sector healthy to meet EU circularity goals.

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