Pitti Uomo, the largest menswear trade show in the world, is coming up this month. Brands from around the world will show off their newest collections of suits, shoes and elevated basics. But many of the most stylish men aren't wearing new clothes.

Vintage and secondhand fashion is having an explosive moment, and menswear content creators are particularly in love with high-quality vintage goods from years past when clothes were made to last. Not only do menswear brands have to compete with each other, but they also have to compete with the decades' worth of vintage clothing still on the market. Why buy the latest from Corso Mille when there are mountains of vintage Ralph Lauren available on eBay?

On the Glossy Podcast this week, we spoke with Albert Muzquiz, the menswear writer and content creator better known as @edgyalbert, about exactly this phenomenon.

Muzquiz said menswear enthusiasts tend to obsess about quality, and while there are brands making good clothes now, they're often the exception rather than the norm.

"There are the lowest common denominator brands that are pushing everyone further down," Muzquiz said. "And then there are these American companies controlled by private equity that have no soul or substance. And when you touch good fabric, it's like night and day. You can tell the difference. But this is why the JFK Jr. trend happened. There were eras where basically any clothes from the department store were that good."