Is it a major step on the road to democracy, or will Ethiopia's first general election under Abiy Ahmed be remembered as another marker of the tension that's barred nearly one in five citizens from casting a ballot? We ask why conflict has spiralled in the Tigray region under a leader rewarded just two years ago with a Nobel Peace Prize. We also ask about the PM's home region of Oromia, where calls for self-determination have fuelled another insurgency and ensuing crackdown.