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Meg and Mel tackle changing dynamics in the Australian wine industry, from restaurant closures to big investments and new marketing directions.
• Meg shares insights from VinExpo Asia where Australian wine received positive feedback and shows a shift toward lighter-bodied reds and more whites
• Oak Ridge restaurant closure highlights broader hospitality industry struggles with profit margins shrinking from 10% to 6-8%
• De Bortoli's vine pulling in warmer regions reflects necessary industry restructuring with significant costs and time investment
• $100 million investment from Vinarki into South Australian winemaking shows confidence despite centralization concerns
• Treasury Wine's $15 million investment in low/no-alcohol technology raises questions about authenticity when flavors are added
• Wine Australia's new "We've Got a Wine for That" campaign receives mixed reviews from industry insiders but positive feedback from everyday consumers
• Industry challenges stem from changing demographics with younger generations drinking less wine than previous generations at the same life stage
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Mel tests her theory that Margaret River Chardonnay producers are abandoning their signature big, buttery style for leaner expressions through a tasting of four wines across different price points.
• Meg Brotman argues that Margaret River has traditionally delivered reliable, high-quality big Chardonnays with texture and weight
• Meg describes Margaret River Chardonnay as having a fuller style with riper fruit, moderate acidity, and more evident oak compared to cooler regions
• The $18 Aldi Blackstone Limited Release proves to be an excellent baseline, showing classic regional character with grapefruit, oatmeal notes, and creamy texture
• Leeuwin Estate Prelude Vineyards Chardonnay ($40.90) delivers a seamless, beautiful expression that supports Margaret River's traditional style
• Xanadu Chardonnay shows structural issues, with richness around the edges but lacking mid-palate depth
• Forrester Chardonnay impresses both hosts, further disproving the theory that Margaret River is abandoning its signature style
• The panel concludes that while some producers may be experimenting with leaner styles, Margaret River's distinct Chardonnay identity remains intact
Join us next week as we explore the Italian variety Barbera and whether it lives up to its trendy reputation.
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Dan Murphy's inaugural Best in Glass Wine Awards evaluates wines based on drinkability and value rather than traditional wine show metrics, so we thought we'd see what we thought of their top picks.
• Dan Murphy's tasted over 1,400 wines for their first Best in Glass Awards
• Categories include Best Value, Best International, and overall Best winners
• Tim Adams Clare Valley Pinot Gris 2024 ($20.29) is the standout winner, drinking like a $35 wine
• Chapel Hill The Parson Pinot Grigio offers excellent value at $16.99
• International winner Versato Alto Adige Pinot Grigio ($30) didn't quite justify its price premium for us
• Little Yering Victorian Pinot Noir provides good value at $22
• Decoy California Pinot Noir ($50) shows typical dark fruit and pronounced oak character
• Nanny Goat Central Otago Pinot Noir exhibits the region's characteristic robust style
Next week we'll be tasting Margaret River Chardonnay to explore whether the region is moving away from its traditionally rich style toward leaner expressions.
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What Meg's been drinking: Hirsch Hill Rose
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German Riesling demystifies the often confusing terminologies found on labels by breaking down quality classifications based on ripeness levels at harvest and their relationship to final sweetness. We unpack the intricate world of German wine labels to help you navigate these complex yet incredibly rewarding wines.
• German quality wine is ranked based on grape sugar levels at harvest, not final sweetness
• Kabinett (11.5% potential alcohol) features citrus, green apple, and high acidity
• Spätlese (13% potential alcohol) shows more ripeness with red apple and apricot notes
• Auslese (14% potential alcohol) often includes some botrytis influence with marmalade character
• Beerenauslese and Trockenbeerenauslese represent noble rot-affected and dried botrytis grapes
• Eiswein (ice wine) offers concentrated sweetness without botrytis, yielding just 50 liters per ton
• Alcohol level on the label indicates residual sugar – lower alcohol means more sweetness
• VDP eagle symbol on bottles indicates membership in an elite producer group
• Vineyard designations like "Grosses Gewächs" represent single-vineyard, high-quality wines
• Wines with residual sugar provide perfect balance to high natural acidity
• German Rieslings can age beautifully, developing complexity while maintaining freshness
Next week: Is Nebbiolo the next Sangiovese? We explore whether this Italian variety is becoming Australia's next big alternative grape variety.
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Meg and Mel explore the fascinating world of ageworthy white wines, examining which varieties cellar best and how to identify bottles worth laying down.
What Meg's drinking: 2023 Marchand & Burch Mount Barrow Pinot Noir $72
Wines tasted:
Key things to remember:
• Acid is the most important factor for aging white wine successfully
• Look for moderate alcohol (12.5-13.5%), good concentration, and varietal expression
• Riesling, Semillon, and Chardonnay are the three main varieties suitable for long-term aging
• Hunter Valley Semillon transforms dramatically from delicate lemon-citrus to complex honey and toast
• Aged Riesling develops kerosene, marmalade and preserved lemon characteristics
• Chardonnay requires quality oak treatment to age well, peaking around 10-12 years
• Cheaper Riesling and Semillon can still age beautifully, while inexpensive Chardonnay will not
• Buy a dozen bottles and taste one each year to experience the aging journey firsthand
Join us next week as we explore German wine ripeness levels, diving into Kabinett, Spätlese, Auslese, Trockenbeerenauslese, and more!
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We dive into the world of chillable red wines,
What Meg's drinking: Running with Bulls
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Chinese wine is making waves in the global market with premium producers like Silver Heights showcasing the potential of regions like Ningxia through biodynamic viticulture and French winemaking techniques. We taste and evaluate two high-end offerings that challenge our expectations and reveal the rapid evolution of China's wine industry.
• China ranks as the 12th largest wine producer in the world
• Chinese wine industry began serious development in the late 1970s when the country opened to foreign investment
• Ningxia province is gaining recognition for quality Cabernet Sauvignon production
• Silver Heights winery produces biodynamically and organically grown wines using both Western philosophies and Chinese principles
• The premium Chardonnay ($89) shows beautiful minerality, green papaya notes and well-integrated oak
• The Cabernet Sauvignon ($115) displays intriguing local character with notes of shiso leaf, shiitake and tea
• Chinese wine evolution mirrors Australia's development in the 1980s with young vines still finding their identity
• Drastic continental climate in Ningxia requires vintners to mound snow over vines during winter
• Chinese wines are increasingly available in Australian specialty wine shops like Cardwell Cellars
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We’re back and better than ever with an exciting setup for the new season, ready to delve into current wine news and trends. The episode highlights the current challenges faced by the wine industry and how we can navigate through them.
• Return of the podcast and upcoming plans for the season
• Update on vintage trends and climate impact on wine quality
• Discussion on cellar doors closing and the shift in wine tourism
• Insights into the joint marketing between Australia and New Zealand wines
• Details on collectible wines and white wines leading the trends
• Analysis of potential tariffs from the U.S. and their implications
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From the publisher's feed
The fun + frank podcast which helps you navigate the world of wine. Hosted by Australia's first female Master of Wine Meg Brodtmann, and self-titled Master of Sabrage Mel Gilcrist.
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