Gravy

Yock Is for Lovers: Chinese Soul Food in Tidewater Virginia


Listen Later

In "Yock Is for Lovers: Chinese Soul Food in Tidewater Virginia," Gravy producer Nicole Hutcheson delves into the history of Yock-a-Mein, tracing its origins to the Tidewater region of Virginia and delving into its significant role in shaping the distinctive culinary tradition known as Chinese soul food.

Originally created by a novice noodle maker and budding entrepreneur, Yock-a-Mein has evolved into an unofficial regional delicacy, gracing the tables of baby showers, rent parties, office potlucks, and funeral repasses. Rooted in humble ingredients born of necessity, it carries a legacy of resilience often overlooked in the world of gastronomy. Yock has not only sustained communities for generations, but also served as a unifying force among them.

While the narrative of Southern cuisine commonly reflects on the nation’s colonial past and the fusion of enslaved Africans, Native Americans, and Europeans, there exists another narrative—the convergence of urban and immigrant communities in the early 20th century, forging new culinary traditions in the South. 

Today, with many original establishments serving Yock and other Chinese soul food specialties now facing closure, the rich history of these dishes is in question. 

In this episode of Gravy, Hutcheson speaks with Frank Duenas, owner of Mama Chan’s Chinese Takeout in Portsmouth, Virginia, now in its third decade of business. She meets Jenny Wong, whose father Park F. Wong once owned the Norfolk Noodle Factory in Norfolk and created Yock-a-Mein noodles, as well as Greg Shia, who purchased the factory in 2003 and operates it today. Finally, Andreka Gibson—known locally as the “Yock Queen”—describes her journey from Yock pop-up to flourishing, Instagram-worthy business, charting the future of this regional tradition.

For Hutcheson and her audience, recognizing the history and origins of this dish stands as a testament to its enduring presence. By spotlighting those who continue the tradition, the hope is to preserve its legacy for generations to come.

Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

...more
View all episodesView all episodes
Download on the App Store

GravyBy Southern Foodways Alliance

  • 4.6
  • 4.6
  • 4.6
  • 4.6
  • 4.6

4.6

540 ratings


More shows like Gravy

View all
Fresh Air by NPR

Fresh Air

38,494 Listeners

Bon Appétit by Bon Appétit

Bon Appétit

2,547 Listeners

The Kitchen Sisters Present by The Kitchen Sisters & Radiotopia

The Kitchen Sisters Present

1,291 Listeners

The Splendid Table: Conversations & Recipes For Curious Cooks & Eaters by American Public Media

The Splendid Table: Conversations & Recipes For Curious Cooks & Eaters

3,082 Listeners

The Sporkful by Dan Pashman

The Sporkful

3,946 Listeners

Good Food by KCRW

Good Food

1,100 Listeners

Gastropod by Cynthia Graber and Nicola Twilley

Gastropod

3,643 Listeners

Special Sauce with Ed Levine by Ed Levine

Special Sauce with Ed Levine

379 Listeners

Christopher Kimball’s Milk Street Radio by Milk Street Radio

Christopher Kimball’s Milk Street Radio

3,001 Listeners

This Is TASTE by Aliza Abarbanel & Matt Rodbard

This Is TASTE

301 Listeners

Proof by America's Test Kitchen

Proof

1,896 Listeners

Home Cooking by Samin Nosrat & Hrishikesh Hirway

Home Cooking

4,857 Listeners

Food with Mark Bittman by Mark Bittman

Food with Mark Bittman

973 Listeners

The Recipe with Kenji and Deb by Deb Perelman & J. Kenji López-Alt

The Recipe with Kenji and Deb

440 Listeners

The Dinner Plan by Maggie Hoffman

The Dinner Plan

50 Listeners