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Thanks for being a paid subscriber to Beyond the Garden Basics!
No time to listen to today’s podcast (above) with Ed Laivo? Here’s a summary. And below that, the actual transcript, with pictures, links, and music!
* Don’t expect a seed-grown peach to match the parent. Genetics are unpredictable. There’s a 70–90% chance the fruit will be disappointing or the tree won’t produce at all.
* Check whether your seedling tree even has a rootstock by looking at the base for a graft bump. A true seedling grows on its own roots, which means no disease resistance or soil adaptation guarantees.
* Plant in well-drained soil. This is the single most important factor for improving a seedling’s odds, since you can’t predict its soil tolerance.
* Give it full sun. It won’t guarantee quality fruit, but it removes one variable.
* Be realistic about your timeline. Seed-grown fruit trees can take 5–7+ years to produce, and may never produce at all.
* If space is limited, skip it. A seedling takes up valuable yard space that a proven variety could fill with reliable fruit.
* Consider tossing it and buying a named variety instead. You’ll get fruit faster, with known flavor and disease resistance.
* If you want to keep the tree, graft a branch of it on a proven variety of peach or nectarine rather than waiting years for the seedling’s unknown fruit. Find a friend with a good local peach tree and bud or graft that variety onto your seedling’s rootstock.
* Use grafting to test the tree before committing space to it. Test blocks, even at home, let you evaluate without betting your whole yard.
* If you do plant the seedling out, cut it back to knee height to encourage a low, manageable canopy (as Ed Laivo recommends).
* Factor in precocity when choosing any fruit tree. Trees that don’t fruit within the first 2–3 years are generally not worth the wait for most home gardeners.
* If you’re young, patient, and have land, go for it. Experimenting with seedlings is a worthwhile pursuit if you can afford the time and space.
* Research the Dave Wilson Nursery catalog for proven interspecific hybrids (pluots, pluerry, aprium, etc.) that have already been tested for precocity, disease resistance, and rootstock compatibility.
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By Farmer Fred5
88 ratings
Thanks for being a paid subscriber to Beyond the Garden Basics!
No time to listen to today’s podcast (above) with Ed Laivo? Here’s a summary. And below that, the actual transcript, with pictures, links, and music!
* Don’t expect a seed-grown peach to match the parent. Genetics are unpredictable. There’s a 70–90% chance the fruit will be disappointing or the tree won’t produce at all.
* Check whether your seedling tree even has a rootstock by looking at the base for a graft bump. A true seedling grows on its own roots, which means no disease resistance or soil adaptation guarantees.
* Plant in well-drained soil. This is the single most important factor for improving a seedling’s odds, since you can’t predict its soil tolerance.
* Give it full sun. It won’t guarantee quality fruit, but it removes one variable.
* Be realistic about your timeline. Seed-grown fruit trees can take 5–7+ years to produce, and may never produce at all.
* If space is limited, skip it. A seedling takes up valuable yard space that a proven variety could fill with reliable fruit.
* Consider tossing it and buying a named variety instead. You’ll get fruit faster, with known flavor and disease resistance.
* If you want to keep the tree, graft a branch of it on a proven variety of peach or nectarine rather than waiting years for the seedling’s unknown fruit. Find a friend with a good local peach tree and bud or graft that variety onto your seedling’s rootstock.
* Use grafting to test the tree before committing space to it. Test blocks, even at home, let you evaluate without betting your whole yard.
* If you do plant the seedling out, cut it back to knee height to encourage a low, manageable canopy (as Ed Laivo recommends).
* Factor in precocity when choosing any fruit tree. Trees that don’t fruit within the first 2–3 years are generally not worth the wait for most home gardeners.
* If you’re young, patient, and have land, go for it. Experimenting with seedlings is a worthwhile pursuit if you can afford the time and space.
* Research the Dave Wilson Nursery catalog for proven interspecific hybrids (pluots, pluerry, aprium, etc.) that have already been tested for precocity, disease resistance, and rootstock compatibility.
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