Think Oregon is all about Pinot Noir? Think again.
In this episode I'm joined by Samantha Cole-Johnson, Senior US Editor at JancisRobinson.com and the Master of Wine student who achieved the highest mark in the world in Stage One of the notoriously challenging MW programme, to uncover the side of Oregon that most people never discover.
From cross-border wine regions that ignore state lines to savoury Syrah grown on basalt cobblestones, richer styles of Pinot Gris and a brand-new sparkling wine movement, this episode will completely change the way you think about Oregon.
Along the way, we also discuss what the future of wine might look like - and why the biggest challenge facing the wine industry may have nothing to do with wine itself.
You'll discover why the Rocks District produces some of America's most distinctive Syrah, why Oregon's Pinot Gris deserves far more attention, how Method Oregon is putting the state's sparkling wines on the map, and the producers and wine regions that should be firmly on your travel wishlist.
So, if you're ready to look beyond Pinot Noir, pour yourself a glass, sit back, and enjoy this episode.
Shownotes
03:05 – Learning how to communicate wine — how Samantha’s experience in cellars, formal study and wine journalism shaped the way she tastes, writes and speaks about wine today.
05:54 – Do state lines matter in wine? — why geographical boundaries rarely determine wine style, but can have important legal and commercial consequences for producers.
06:53 – Understanding the Columbia Gorge — how rainfall and temperature change dramatically from west to east across this cross-border Oregon and Washington AVA.
08:36 – Visiting the Columbia Gorge — why Portland makes an ideal starting point for exploring its wineries, cycling trails, breweries and famous windsurfing.
09:26 – Inside the Rocks District — what makes this tiny Oregon AVA’s basalt cobblestones and distinctive soils unlike almost anywhere else in the United States.
10:40 – The unmistakable Rocks District flavour — how low acidity, heat and saline soils can create Syrah with savoury, ferrous, rosemary and cured-meat characters.
11:22 – Why Grenache is thriving — the grape varieties performing particularly well in the Rocks District’s hot, dry and intensely sunny conditions.
13:41 – The problem with Rocks District labelling — why many wines grown inside the AVA must legally be labelled as Walla Walla when they are made across the border in Washington.
For a deeper dive into Washington State wine, listen to Episode 271 with Chris Stone and Avril Mooney from the Washington State Wine Commission.
15:37 – Cayuse Vineyards and Christophe Baron — why one of the Rocks District’s most celebrated producers chooses not to place the AVA name on his labels.
17:49 – Christophe Baron and Cayuse — why one of the Rocks District's pioneering winemakers chooses not to feature the AVA name on his labels.
18:44 – How to identify wines from the Rocks — why a Walla Walla label does not guarantee Rocks District fruit and what wine lovers should investigate before buying.
Producer to look out for who trained with Christophe Baron - Matt Reynvaan of Reynvaan Family Vineyards
20:40 – Oregon beyond the Willamette Valley — exploring the smaller wine regions and cross-border AVAs that exist beyond the state’s best-known centre of production.
21:25 – Why small producers rarely reach export markets — how direct-to-consumer sales in cities such as Seattle and Boise can leave little incentive for wineries to export.
23:23 – Oregon’s artisanal wine culture — how the state developed around small-scale wineries, hands-on farming and producers working with limited resources.
25:32 – Is Oregon wine becoming more commercial? — how new investment, vineyard management companies and larger businesses are changing the region’s traditional identity.
27:23 – Why American wine can be expensive — the impact of land prices, debt, staffing, healthcare, investors and corporate structures on the final cost of a bottle.
30:29 – Looking beyond the romance of winemaking — the economic reality behind owning vineyards, employing staff and running a sustainable family wine business.
31:18 – The authentic small-winery experience — why visiting working producers may involve muddy cellars, vineyard trucks and less glamour, but far greater access to the people behind the wine.
34:53 – Small wineries versus large production — why Oregon still has far more small producers, even as a growing proportion of its wine is made by larger companies.
35:49 – Oregon beyond Pinot Noir — discovering Tempranillo, Bordeaux varieties, Gamay, Chardonnay and the diversity emerging across the state.
38:46 – Pinot Gris or Pinot Grigio? — why Oregon producers use both names and how the label can indicate whether a wine is inspired by Alsace or northern Italy.
39:41 – The classic Oregon Pinot Gris style — fresh, mineral and fruit-driven wines from producers such as King Estate and Sokol Blosser.
40:09 – A richer side of Oregon Pinot Gris — Ridgecrest, The Eyrie and Antiquum Farm demonstrate how old vines, skin contact and oak can create more textured, age-worthy wines.
42:25 – Comparing Alsace and northern Italy — the differences between richer, more powerful Alsace Pinot Gris and the fresher, leaner styles commonly associated with Italian Pinot Grigio.
43:46 – What matters most for Oregon Pinot Gris — why old vines, warmer vineyard sites and individual producers may be more important than any particular AVA.
44:38 – Introducing Method Oregon — the new initiative establishing rules for traditional-method sparkling wine made entirely from sustainably grown Oregon fruit.
46:08 – How Oregon sparkling wine is made — the specialist services helping still-wine producers manage secondary fermentation, riddling and disgorgement.
47:55 – Oregon’s leading sparkling wine producers — the history of Argyle and Soter, and the new vineyards being planted specifically for traditional-method sparkling wine.
49:44 – Developments shaping the future of wine — lower-alcohol fermentation, de-alcoholised wine, growing demand for white and sparkling styles and greater interest in environmental certification.
51:00 – Is declining socialisation hurting wine? — Samantha’s theory that remote working, screen time and fewer shared meals may be more important than generational drinking trends.
52:23 – Wine as a social experience — why encouraging people to gather, connect and spend longer around the table could be essential to the future of the wine industry.
54:04 – Barbecue wine recommendations — Samantha recommends Bedrock Wine Co. for outstanding Zinfandel, alongside lighter chillable reds for relaxed outdoor gatherings.
55:23 – Pairing wine with hand-holding — why Samantha chooses a lower-alcohol Txakoli rosé for an experience that has nothing to do with food.
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RECOGNITION:
Finalist, 67 Pall Mall Award for Best Global Wine Communicator in Audio (2025)Shortlisted, IWSC Emerging Talent in Wine Communication (2025 and 2026)Ranked #18 in 2024 and #22 in 2025 on Drinks Retailing’s Most Influential People in Drinks list.
