Much as they shy away from topical events, Erik & Max have to ask the obvious this week—but perhaps not in the way you think. While the conversation does come to rest on the Cubitus, this week’s chat is centered around chronicling the last two decades of slow and steady decline at one of the world’s greatest watchmaking houses. It’s not a roast; it’s a plea. From machining marks left bare on the calibre 324 to calibre 31-260 avoiding interior angles like Lange avoids exuberance, it’s all here. Plus, what should a great designer at Chanel wear to mark a success? 

Links Mentioned:

Initial Discontinuation of the 5711 in 2021:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/patek-philippe-ref-5711-nautilus-has-been-discontinued

2008 Departure from the Geneva Seal:

https://www.watchtime.com/wristwatch-industry-news/industry/patek-philippe-create-quality-seal/

https://quillandpad.com/2018/07/07/the-geneva-seal-is-it-really-a-big-deal-archive/

https://www.watchprosite.com/horological-meandering/this-has-been-discussed-at-length-on-the-canadian-forum-so-i-ll-repost-some-of-it-here-/17.1421081.13055676/

https://www.41watch.com/en/blog/patek-philippe-nautilus-5711-geneva-patek-seal-n62

Top of Catalogue Repeaters:

https://collectability.com/product/patek-philippe-white-gold-minute-repeating-wristwatch-ref-5078g-001/

High vs Low Catalogue Finish:

https://www.watchprosite.com/patek-philippe/finish-on-standard-vs-high-end-patek-movements/11.1240336.10258681/

Calibre 324 Issues:

https://www.watchprosite.com/patek-philippe/no-problem-with-size-but-with-finishing-and-overuse--/11.847583.5750998/

https://www.watchprosite.com/patek-philippe/when-did-patek-finish-quality-change--moderator-edit-it-hasn-t-changed-/11.1555431.15271751/

Calibre 31-260 PS QL:

https://www.watchprosite.com/horological-meandering/an-observation-regarding-patek-31-260-ps-ql/17.1421081.13055496/

5303 vs 3939 Calibres (Repeater with Calibre not made to case):

https://hairspring.com/finds/5303r-patek-philippe-minute-repeater/

https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/CH080221/40 (the true OG Tourbillon Repeater)

Strategy and Positioning:

Interview:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/patek-philippe-boss-thierry-stern-on-ukraine-rolex-his-succession-plan-his-personal-collection-and-y

1938P Repeater with Face of Philippe Stern on Dial:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-30-piece-limited-series-patek-philippe-minute-repeater-alarm-ref-1938p-in-honor-of-philippe-ster

Square 222: 

https://hairspring.com/finds/46004-vacheron-constantin-square-222/

Cubitus:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/introducing-patek-philippe-cubitus-collection

Only Wrist:

https://hairspring.com/exclusives/laurent-ferrier/galet-classic-micro-rotor-for-hodinkee-titanium/

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-a-lange-and-sohne-1815-rattrapante-now-in-platinum