Hairspring

Episode 67: Tony Traina Vents & Builds Lifelong 20K + 200K Two-Watch Collections


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The inimitable mastermind behind Unpolished returns to join Erik & Max; this episode is a wide-ranging discussion with Mr. Tony Traina himself. It covers three large segments of discussion. First, what’s been grinding Tony’s gears lately (and some of Erik’s as well). Then a collection-building exercise of two lifelong two-watch collections: one collection at 20K and one at 200K. Finally what are some trends that we’re not paying enough attention to right now? 


Links Mentioned:


Lange on a Nato:


https://www.instagram.com/lange.on.a.nato/


Omega’s Bronze Gold:


https://www.omegawatches.com/en-us/watches/seamaster/heritage-models/seamaster-300/seamaster-300-bronze-gold/product


East Germany’s Indestructible ‘Superfest’ Glass:


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vEvBpjCOBu0


Cartier-Restored Cintrée:


https://www.phillips.com/detail/cartier/HK080221/829


Collection Building (in Order of Discussion):


20K:


SBGW033:


https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/sbgw033-grand-seiko-130th-anniversary-first


SBGM221:


https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/my-trusty-old-grand-seiko-is-still-shockingly-accurate


2500:


https://thekeystone.com/products/patek-philippe-rose-gold-calatrava-watch-ref-2500


165.024:


https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/big-triangle-165-024-omega-seamaster-300


1803/9 (Just Imagine This on a Strap):


https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/arabic-disc-1803-9-rolex-day-date


73443T:


https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/exotic-dial-73443t-heuer-camaro-dato


E335 Black Dial:


https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/e335-lecoultre-valjoux-72-chronograph


222100:


https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/222100-1-universal-geneve-tri-compax


200K:


Empire:


https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2025/important-watches/empire-a-rare-yellow-gold-automatic-wristwatch


L. Leroy & Cie:


https://www.phillips.com/detail/leroy/CH080515/249


3800J:

https://www.acollectedman.com/products/patek-philippe-nautilus-3800j-yellow-gold


MN:


https://hairspring.com/products/9401-0-marine-nationale-submariner-steel


16520:


https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/porcelain-floating-cosmograph-16528-rolex-daytona


6239:


https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/206127


25820PT:


https://hairspring.com/collections/exclusives/products/25820pt-tuscan-dial-royal-oak-quantieme-perpetuel-platinum


1815 Chronograph:


https://hairspring.com/products/401-026-1815-chronograph-first-generation-white-gold


Trends We’re Not Paying Enough Attention To:


https://www.nytimes.com/2023/03/26/fashion/watches-workforce-switzerland.html


David Candaux:


https://www.phillips.com/detail/david-candaux/217670


Suzanne Rohr:


https://www.unpolishedwatches.com/p/under-the-hammer-watch-auctions-in


Only Wrist:


384.032:


https://www.alange-soehne.com/us-en/timepieces/saxonia/saxonia-moon-phase/saxonia-moon-phase-in-750-pink-gold-384-032


3417:


https://hairspring.com/products/3417-amagnetic-steel


E168 Geophysic:


https://www.phillips.com/detail/jaegerlecoultre/CH080218/134

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