Hairspring

Episode 91: Enamel 101


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A longstanding craft which has graced some of the greatest wristwatches made, this episode studies the basics of enamel dials and their application in wristwatches. From historical roots until work being performed today, Erik & Max cover the main techniques of Grand Feu, Cloisonné, Champlevé, Flinqué, and engraved enamel. Nuanced, examples, techniques, and the background needed to begin conversations about the topic of enamel dials are all in here. 


Links Mentioned: 


Peter Henlein Nuremberg Eggs:


https://quillandpad.com/2014/12/15/the-worlds-oldest-watch-a-peter-henlein-mystery-from-1505-solved/


Jean Toutin:


https://www.themagazineantiques.com/article/seventeenth-century-french-enameled-watches-walters-art-gallery/


Miklos Merczel JLC:


https://quillandpad.com/2014/07/23/jaeger-lecoultres-art-of-in-house-enameling/


Daniel Quare:


https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Daniel_Quare


Grand Feu:


https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/patek-philippe-2526-enamel-dial-donze-cadrans


https://hairspring.com/products/5370p-split-seconds-chronograph-platinum-1


https://hairspring.com/products/tourbillon-double-spiral-besancon-certified-white-gold_43241


Cloisonné:


https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/CH080121/33


https://watchesbysjx.com/2024/04/patek-philippe-world-time-cloisonne-605-hu-de-world-map-pink-gold.html


https://watchesbysjx.com/2016/07/why-are-vintage-cloisonne-enamel-dial-watches-collectible.html


https://www.watchonista.com/articles/events/prix-gaia-2019-suzanne-rohr-craftmanship-creation-category


https://www.europastar.com/the-watch-files/portraits/1004113605-the-multiple-talents-of-enamellist-anita-porchet.html


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qzPx_hj6tCc


Champlevé:


https://monochrome-watches.com/hands-on-krayon-anywhere-for-only-watch-2021/


https://www.alange-soehne.com/us-en/timepieces/selections/watches-with-an-enamel-dial


https://www.patek.com/en/collection/golden-ellipse/5738-51g-001


Flinqué:


https://www.patek.com/en/collection/calatrava/4997-200g-001


https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/life-is-a-cabaret-lange-handwerkskunst-tourbillon-that-is


https://watchesbysjx.com/2019/05/hands-on-with-the-voutilainen-28-te-in-enamel.html


https://www.acollectedman.com/products/rexhep-rexhepi-chronometre-contemporain-ii-platinum


Engraved Enamel:


https://www.unpolishedwatches.com/p/engraved-enamel-why-some-dials-never


https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/qin-gan-independent-watchmaker-from-china


Favorites:


2526:


https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/2526-patek-philippe-calatrava-white-gold


6101:


https://le-monde-edmond.com/enamel_rolex_dials/


2523 Gobbi:


https://watchesbysjx.com/2019/11/patek-philippe-2523-worldtime-most-expensive-watch-sold.html


2699 Constellation:


https://thekeystone.com/products/omega-yellow-gold-constellation-geneva-observatory-cloisonne-watch


3428P:


https://le-monde-edmond.com/patek-3428-platinum-enamel-dial/


1415:


https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/112503?fromSearch=1415


5231:


https://www.patek.com/en/collection/complications/5231g-001


Only Wrist:


https://langepedia.com/a-lange-sohne-lange-1-perpetual-calendar/


https://onlineonly.christies.com/s/watches-online-dubai-edit/a-lange-sohne-lange-1-sincere-singapore-ref-112-049-limited-edition-64/145895

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