France in focus

French overseas territories: Martinique's Creole melting pot


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In France's overseas departments, Creole language and culture are seen as a bulwark against racism and standardisation. The concept of "Créoleness" was developed in the late 1980s, in the wake of Aimé Césaire's writings on Négritude and Edouard Glissant's notion of "Antillanité", or a specifically Caribbean identity. Our reporters Florence Gaillard and Georges Yazbeck travelled to Martinique to hear from those who embody this complex identity. 

Following the Christian calendar, the four days before Ash Wednesday are known as "les jours gras" in Martinique: a time of celebration and mischief. Everyone is invited to the carnival: rich, poor, white, black, locals and tourists.

The festivities are populated by some emblematic local characters: King Vaval, the Red Devils and Marianne La Po Fig, a mysterious creature made of banana leaves. According to Marie-Lyne Psyché-Salpétrier, president of the Recherches et Traditions association, Marianne La Po Fig is part of Martinique's spiritual pantheon, handed down by the island's Yoruba ancestors and belonging to its African roots. 

Philosopher Edouard Glissant called Martinique "the melting pot of the world". Like all Creole societies, it is the product of three centuries of colonisation and a mixture of European, African and Asian populations. The indigenous Amerindians, known as Kalinagos or Caribs, have all but disappeared. 

This physical and cultural intermingling has led to the emergence of a popular language: Creole. Long associated with slavery, Creole was forbidden in the classroom and frowned upon in polite society. Yet the language continued to evolve – largely thanks to songs and stories – and today it's a poetic, multi-layered idiom. We meet Jocelyne Béroard, a singer with the group Kassav', who told us more about the inherent poetry of Créole and how she uses it on stage and in daily life. 

Meanwhile, the "Groupe d'Etudes et de Recherches en Espace Créole" has been working for almost 30 years to lay the written foundations of Creole, publishing dictionaries and novels in a Creole that borrows expressions from Martinique, French Guiana, Haiti and Reunion Island. More importantly, GEREC has fought to bring Creole to school textbooks and universities and thereby formalise its use beyond the oral sphere. 

In 1989, Raphaël Confiant, Jean Bernabé and Patrick Chamoiseau published "Eloge de la Créolité" or "In Praise of Creoleness". This manifesto celebrates Creole identity as the acceptance of all diversities and the endorsement of plural identities. For its co-author Confiant: "Creoleness is, in fact, the opposite of apartheid!"

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France in focusBy FRANCE 24 English

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