This week’s episode is with a couple that makes phenomenal cider in New Hampshire at Farnhum Hill. It’s all orchard based from their own land at Poverty Lane Orchards, and it’s all made right there on-site in a repurposed barn.
Steve Wood and Louisa Spencer have made a life with their cider, but in recent years as the sort of pseudo craft cider boom has created both momentum and vulnerability in the cider category, things have gotten a bit out of whack. After all, what is craft cider if it’s not up to par with orchard based traditional cider? It’s a bit like starting up a craft beer craze when you already have Hill Farmstead and Jester King around.
But that’s what’s happened in cider as these traditional orchardists have had to start competing alongside some fairly mundane cider in a 6-pack of cans. It’s a blessing and a curse. The size of the pie increases, but the consumer is more confused than ever before.
But despite that quandary, Farnhum Hill is growing. They’re building an entirely new cider house next to the old barn, and hoping the future is as bright as it seems.
I stopped by on a whim. I was simply in the area for a wedding this past summer and wasn’t going to miss my chance to visit one of my favorite cider producers in the world. So this interview starts a bit spontaneously as Steve expected a chat, and I quickly realized that him and his partner Louisa needed to sit down and talk some things out. And thankfully I had my road kit with me so we could record. It’ll start abruptly and end abruptly, but that’s what oral history sounds like. And I treasure this conversation.