We often think of sustainability as having to do with the environment: food, clean air, power generation, and so forth. But a different kind of sustainability is, perhaps, even more important: human respect and ethical treatment.

The restaurant NOMA has announced a closing in 2024. It has been rated the “best in the world” (if there is such a thing) and is ineligible for further nominations. But the major issue of its closing is that the grueling schedule and labor for the production of such dishes as “grilled reindeer heart on spruce twigs” or “beetles formed from plant leather” is that the labor is excruciatingly repetitive and specific.

Heretofore, in restaurants like this (and Blue Hill Farm in Tarrytown, NY, and once in 11 Madison in Manhattan, all “best” award winners) scores of interns working for free toiled in 16-hour days in order to produce the meals and gain their credentials for having worked under world-class chefs.

There have been abuses in professions where people want desperately to work with the best and, unfortunately, have to experience improper behavior. That includes nurses, teachers, reporters, first responders, and so forth. Because they have a “calling” they are willing to endure worse environments than others, even to the point of abuse. It was considered the cost of being with a “master” but more recently has been seen for what it is, simply abuse or poor treatment and poor pay.

Differing talents and experiences and training deserve differing remuneration. The rarer the skill, the more valuable it is. But ALL workers deserve safe and decent work environments and a living wage and benefits.

“Sustainability” should first be applied to our colleagues and fellow humans. Otherwise, there is no sustained environment that means anything.