Welcome to The Temple of Surf Podcast!

In this episode, we are honored to sit down with one of Southern California’s most respected surfboard shapers: Stu Kenson. With over four decades of shaping experience, Stu has carved his legacy into the foam of surfing history, creating some of the most innovative and performance-driven boards the industry has ever seen. Based out of San Diego, Stu Kenson is known for his refined craftsmanship and deep understanding of design evolution, from classic guns and longboards to high-performance shortboards and retro-inspired fishes. His boards have found their way under the feet of some of the best surfers in the world, while his influence has helped shape the modern fish movement that continues to inspire surfers across generations.

In this exclusive interview, Stu opens up about his journey from the early shaping rooms of the 1970s to becoming a household name in the shaping world. We dive deep into the origins of his passion, the pivotal mentors who influenced his career, and how the surfboard design process has evolved over the years,  especially in San Diego, a hub of experimentation and style. One of the highlights of our conversation is Stu’s take on the resurgence of the twin-fin and fish revolution — and how these alternative designs are pushing performance surfing into exciting new directions.

He also shares fascinating insights into the materials he works with, including EPS and PU foam, as well as his perspective on the future of sustainable surfboard construction.

Whether you’re a surfboard collector, a weekend warrior, or an up-and-coming shaper, this episode offers invaluable lessons about craftsmanship, innovation, and the soul of surfing. Stu doesn’t just build boards — he builds experiences and connections between surfer and wave. We also discuss: 

The influence of San Diego legends like Skip Frye and Steve Lis How computer shaping has impacted traditional hand shaping Why every board Stu makes is a blend of performance and passion The spiritual aspect of shaping and wave-riding This is a must-watch episode for anyone who loves surfing culture and the art of shaping.

Don’t forget to like, comment, and subscribe to The Temple of Surf Podcast for more conversations with iconic surfers, shapers, and ocean lovers from around the world. 

➡️ Watch now and join us as we explore the mind of one of surf culture’s most respected craftsmen: Stu Kenson.

Aloha Everyone and welcome to a new episode of The Temple of Surf - The Podcast. We will give you full access to the best surfers, skaters, shapers, surfboards collectors, shop owners in the world! Discover with me their stories, their greatest successes, amazing behind the scenes and much more! Today with us Stu Kenson, legendary shaper from San Diego. Let's discover more about him, shaping, future projects and much more! For more information please visit https://www.stukensonsurfboards.eu/en/website-us/

n this episode of The Temple of Surf, we sit down with one of the most iconic and influential surfers of all time: Tom Carroll. A two-time world champion, Pipeline master, and a true pioneer of power surfing, Tom’s legacy goes far beyond contest wins. He redefined what it meant to charge waves with precision, grace, and raw determination, setting a standard that still echoes across the lineup today.

Our conversation with Tom is a deep dive into the mindset of a champion. He opens up about his legendary career, including the moment he chose principle over paycheck when boycotting South Africa during apartheid, a decision that cost him a world title shot but won him lasting respect. We revisit the unforgettable day in 1991 when he pulled into that impossibly deep snap under the lip at Pipeline, a maneuver that’s become part of surfing folklore.

But this episode isn’t just about trophies and highlight reels. Tom speaks candidly about the challenges he faced behind the scenes and the personal transformation that followed. His story is a powerful reminder that even the strongest among us carry battles we don’t always see, and that resilience isn’t just about taking off on heavy waves, it’s about confronting the ones within.

We also talk about what surfing means to him today. From riding giant waves in remote corners of the world to mentoring younger surfers and practicing mindfulness, Tom has continued to evolve while staying deeply connected to the ocean. His thoughts on fear, flow, and the spiritual connection with surfing will leave you inspired and grounded.

Whether you're a longtime fan or just discovering the roots of modern surfing, this episode is packed with insight, emotion, and timeless wisdom from one of the sport’s true legends.

So wax up your board, tune in, and paddle out with us as we explore the extraordinary life and fearless lines of Tom Carroll.

Aloha Everyone and welcome to a new episode of The Temple of Surf - The Podcast. We will give you full access to the best surfers, skaters, shapers, surfboards collectors, shop owners in the world! Discover with me their stories, their greatest successes, amazing behind the scenes and much more! Today with us Tom Carroll legendary surfer from Australia, 2X winner of the world title in 1983 and 1984 and Pipe Masters in 1987 Let's discover more about him, his stories , future projects and much more!

Joël de Rosnay: Surfing the Future | Science, Waves & Human Potential | The Temple of Surf Podcast"

Description:

In this extraordinary episode of The Temple of Surf Podcast, we are honored to welcome Joël de Rosnay  a visionary thinker, futurist, scientist, surfer, and author whose ideas have shaped generations.

Born in Mauritius and raised near the ocean, Joël has led a life at the intersection of science and surfing. As a former professional surfer, molecular biologist, advisor to the French government, and author of seminal works like The Symbiotic Man and Surfing the Life Force, Joël brings a unique, philosophical perspective to our understanding of life, technology, and nature.

In this episode, we dive deep into Joël’s remarkable journey. He shares how his early love for surfing in the 1950s sparked his fascination with systems thinking, how everything, from waves to human societies, follows patterns, cycles, and energy flows. Surfing, to him, is not just a sport. It’s a metaphor for how to navigate complexity, change, and the unknown.

Joël discusses his scientific career, from working at MIT to becoming Director of Forecasting at the Cité des Sciences in Paris. But more than credentials, it’s his vision for the future that makes this conversation so inspiring.

He explains how surfing can teach us resilience, balance, anticipation and how those lessons are more relevant than ever in today’s fast-moving, uncertain world.

One of the most powerful moments in the episode is when Joël reflects on “surfing the wave of life.” Whether it’s technology, emotions, or evolution itself, he believes we can learn to ride these forces consciously, not passively, becoming co-creators of our future.

We also explore his thoughts on artificial intelligence, climate change, education, and the potential of humanity to evolve toward greater awareness. Joël doesn’t offer dystopian fear — he offers empowered optimism grounded in science and personal experience. At nearly 90 years old, his mind is sharp, his spirit is young, and his stoke for surfing is still alive.

This episode is not just for surfers or scientists — it’s for anyone curious about life, meaning, and how to find harmony in a chaotic world. Joël de Rosnay’s insights will leave you thinking long after the last wave fades.

🎧 Tune in now and be inspired by a true Renaissance man — one who believes the future is not to be feared but surfed.

Aloha Everyone and welcome to a new episode of The Temple of Surf - The Podcast. We will give you full access to the best surfers, skaters, shapers, surfboards collectors, shop owners in the world!

Discover with me their stories, their greatest successes, amazing behind the scenes and much more!

Today with us Joël de Rosnay, is Docteur en Sciences, scientific writer and  famous for pioneering surfing in France in 1957 and created the Surf Club de France in 1964.

Let's discover more about him, surf in France, future projects and much more!

for more info visit www.derosnay.com

Aloha Everyone and welcome to a new episode of The Temple of Surf - The Podcast. We will give you full access to the best surfers, skaters, shapers, surfboards collectors, shop owners in the world!

Discover with me their stories, their greatest successes, amazing behind the scenes and much more!

Today with us Fred, vintage surfboard collector from France.

Let's discover more about him, his collections and much more!

Aloha Everyone and welcome to a new episode of The Temple of Surf - The Podcast. We will give you full access to the best surfers, skaters, shapers, surfboards collectors, shop owners in the world!

Discover with me their stories, their greatest successes, amazing behind the scenes and much more!

Today with us Fred, vintage surfboard collector from France.

Let's discover more about him, his collections and much more!

🎙️ "Sylvain Cazenave: Through the Lens of Surfing’s Soul | The Temple of Surf Podcast"

Description:

In this powerful episode of The Temple of Surf Podcast, we sit down with one of the most iconic surf photographers of our time — Sylvain Cazenave.

For over 40 years, Sylvain has been capturing the essence of surfing with his camera. From the thundering waves of Hawaii to the long, dreamy lines of Indonesia and the rugged coastlines of Europe, his work has graced the pages of Surfer Magazine, Surf Session, and countless global publications. More than just a photographer, Sylvain is a storyteller, a visual poet of the surf world.

In this episode, we explore his incredible journey behind the lens. Sylvain shares how he first fell in love with surfing and photography in the 1970s, the challenges of shooting in the pre-digital era, and what it meant to chase the perfect shot, sometimes risking it all in the water with nothing but a waterproof housing and an instinct for the decisive moment.

We talk about the golden age of surf photography and what it was like to work alongside the legends of the sport, including Tom Curren, Kelly Slater, and Laird Hamilton. But Sylvain also opens up about the emotional side of his craft: the patience, the solitude, and the deeply personal connection he forms with the ocean each time he takes a photo.

One of the most touching moments in the conversation? When Sylvain reflects on the feeling of witnessing a single surfer gliding across a massive wave at Teahupo’o just him, the sea, and the sound of the shutter. “It’s not just action,” he says. “It’s art, movement, and a spiritual connection with nature.”

Today, as the surf world evolves with drones, GoPros, and social media saturation, Sylvain remains committed to the timeless values of his craft: composition, light, soul, and respect for the sea. His wisdom offers a grounding perspective for anyone interested in surf photography, visual storytelling, or simply preserving the true spirit of surfing.

Whether you’re a photographer, a surfer, or someone who appreciates the beauty of a perfectly timed wave, this episode will leave you inspired and in awe of the man behind so many iconic surf images.

🎧 Tune in now and experience the surf world through the eyes of Sylvain Cazenave — where every frame tells a deeper story.

for more info visit http://www.sylvaincazenave.com

Aloha Everyone and welcome to a new episode of The Temple of Surf - The Podcast. We will give you full access to the best surfers, skaters, shapers, surfboards collectors, shop owners in the world!

Discover with me their stories, their greatest successes, amazing behind the scenes and much more!

Today with us Sylvain Cazenave, legendary surf photographer from Biarritz, France.

Let's discover more about him, surf photography, future projects and much more! 

for more info visit http://www.sylvaincazenave.com