Just months after a devastating earthquake, and with millions suffering from an economy in dire straits, Turkish voters are deciding who should lead the pivotal NATO ally at the crossroads between Asia, Europe and the Middle East. The outcome will reshape the political landscape in Turkey and beyond. For some, the choice is simple: between Recep Tayyip Erdogan, an empire-obsessed strongman who sneers at the democratic values Europe cherishes; and Kemal Kilicdaroglu, a white-knight rival who vows to undo the damage and rescue Turkey's teetering relations with the EU. Others warn that such a depiction is far too simplistic, saying the devil is not in the details, but the entire picture.