Easkey Britton, Ph.D. is a five-time national surfing champion from County Donegal in Ireland with a Doctorate in Environment and Society. She is the first Irish woman to be nominated for the Billabong XXL big wave awards, she is also a researcher, author, artist and social activist, who has an amazing (and difficult to explain here) relationship with the ocean. Easkey began surfing at four, has missed very few days since and describes the ocean as her sanity, her therapy and her home. I always say this but yet again, I loved this chat, especially when Easkey answered one of my questions in Gaelic. Enjoy. 

See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information.