Today, we’re continuing The Climbing Majority’s ‘Triple Crown’ series with Michael Vaill, one of the two climbers who recently broke the Yosemite Triple Crown speed record and, just a week later, made history with the monumental Yosemite Quad. If you missed yesterday’s conversation with his partner, Tanner Wanish, I highly recommend giving it a listen after this episode.

If I had to describe Michael Vaill in one word, it would be 'psyched.' His passion is tangible, infectious, and truly motivating. But for Michael, 'psyche' is more than just a climbing mindset—it’s a way of life. Even before discovering climbing, he nurtured this relentless drive while studying and achieving a PhD in Cell Biology. After graduating, he redirected his focus entirely to climbing in Yosemite, where he could fully embrace this life of passion and challenge.

Michael chooses to live a minimalist, flexible life in order to fully immerse himself in climbing. Life in a van allows him to spend every day pursuing what excites him the most. As he says, if he’s “psyched,” then he’ll keep doing it forever.

While his love for climbing runs deep, Michael takes safety and caution seriously. He speaks about the importance of mentorship, learning to place reliable protection, and respecting the skills required to climb at your limit safely…. Even as he tackles routes as serious and dangerous as the legendary Bachar-Yerian, a 5.11 X testpiece, his approach is careful and calculated. He’s also dedicated to helping newer climbers, giving them a safe space to learn and experience the joy of climbing.

Michael is here. Right now…living in the present…., and aims to continue like that for the foreseeable future., And with his recent achievements in the climbing world, I’d say it's working out for him pretty well.... His journey is a reminder to stay psyched, push limits thoughtfully, and savor the fulfillment that climbing brings to our lives.

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Resources

Michael's IG

Cover photo taken by Connor Brown