Join Evoke coach Larry Goldie for a conversation with Sid Pattison. Sid has guided three successful Everest expeditions, as well as other Himalayan peaks, including guided Lhotse and Ama Dablam. In addition, Sid has played a role in investigating the 1924 Mallory-Irvine expedition--- one of the great unsolved mysteries of mountaineering history as to who was actually the first person to climb Mount Everest.

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Episode Guide

• 00:00:00 Introduction
• 00:01:51 Sid’s early years in climbing
• 00:03:33 Sid’s introduction into being a guide
• 00:05:08 First experiences guiding in the Himalaya
• 00:09:58 The benefits of climbing Everest from the North-Side
• 00:14:18 Pre-acclimatization with a Hypoxico tent
• 00:19:14 Tips for first exposure to high altitude
• 00:21:52 Shifts in mentality in people hoping to summit Everest
• 00:27:04 Sid’s training approaches for the high mountains
• 00:29:29 The importance of strength training 
• 00:32:30 Noticing and mitigating the aging process
• 00:38:23 Looking for Sandy Irvine’s body on Everest
• 00:50:32 Sid’s 2025 Everest ambitions
• 00:56:14 Balancing expeditions with family life
• 01:01:47 Saving energy on expedition
• 01:02:50 Base fitness and pre-acclimatization 
• 01:07:31 Parting words of wisdom

Join coaches Kylee Toth, Larry Goldie, and Jack Kuenzle, as they discuss training and best practices for spring skiing adventures, and answer questions submitted by members of the Evoke Endurance community.

To submit your own training questions for our coaches, send us a direct message on Instagram or contact us here.

• 00:00:00 Introduction
• 00:01:08 Muscular endurance-style core vs. max-strength core routines and ski-erg training
• 00:06:30 Correcting Aerobic Deficiency Syndrome after moving to high altitude
• 00:11:14 How are ice climbing and dry-tooling similar and different?
• 00:19:28 Fueling advice for long days in the mountains?
• 00:24:18 Training volume modulation when switching from low- to high-altitude
• 00:29:21 Reducing weekly running volume vs. more frequent recovery weeks
• 00:32:28 Should training load go beyond that which is necessary for a specific event?
• 00:35:23 Which is better: cross fit-style training with muscluar endurance or race-specific XC ski training?
• 00:44:00 Non-jumping substitutes for Evoke’s gym-based muscular endurance routine?
• 00:48:02 Combining hill sprints and longer hill reps?
• 00:54:38 Recovery strategies after Ranger school?
• 00:58:00 Do anaerobic strides negate an aerobic workout?
• 01:00:09 Strategies for increasing speed reserve for an ultra-runner?

Join coaches Scott Johnston and Leif Godberson for our April installment of Ask Evoke, where they answer training questions submitted by members of the Evoke Endurance community.

To submit your own training questions for our coaches, send us a direct message on Instagram or contact us here.

Episode Guide

• 00:00:00 Introduction
• 00:01:08 Muscular endurance-style core vs. max-strength core routines and ski-erg training
• 00:06:30 Correcting Aerobic Deficiency Syndrome after moving to high altitude
• 00:11:14 How are ice climbing and dry-tooling similar and different?
• 00:19:28 Fueling advice for long days in the mountains?
• 00:24:18 Training volume modulation when switching from low- to high-altitude
• 00:29:21 Reducing weekly running volume vs. more frequent recovery weeks
• 00:32:28 Should training load go beyond that which is necessary for a specific event?
• 00:35:23 Which is better: cross fit-style training with muscluar endurance or race-specific XC ski training?
• 00:44:00 Non-jumping substitutes for Evoke’s gym-based muscular endurance routine?
• 00:48:02 Combining hill sprints and longer hill reps?
• 00:54:38 Recovery strategies after Ranger school?
• 00:58:00 Do anaerobic strides negate an aerobic workout?
• 01:00:09 Strategies for increasing speed reserve for an ultra-runner?

Join Evoke coach Larry Goldie for a discussion with Matt Hainstock. Matt is a professional mountain guide with a passion for training, who is currently working his way through the full A.M.G.A certification process. Matt underwent knee surgery following a skiing accident in 2023. Since then, Matt has recovered and returned to full capacity. Larry and Matt discuss Matt’s injury and return. 

Matt’s Article: 
https://evokeendurance.com/resources/acl-injury-repair-and-rehabilitation/

00:00:00 Introduction
00:01:25 Matt’s skiing accident
00:10:11 Matt’s injury diagnosis
00:17:34 Prehab and surgery
00:24:03 Post-surgery experiences and rehab
00:31:03 Long-term rehab and recovery process
00:34:43 Matt’s return to guiding
00:45:44 Matt’s big take-aways and lessons
00:50:33 Matt and Larry’s final thoughts

Join coaches Scott Johnston and Kylee Toth for our March installment of Ask Evoke, where they answer training questions submitted by members of the Evoke Endurance community.

To submit your own training questions for our coaches, send us a direct message on Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/evokeendurance/

Or email your questions to [email protected]

00:00:00 Introduction
00:01:16 Common gaps most people have in training theory
00:12:23 Does anaerobic work blunt aerobic development if done at the end of a long run?
00:16:00 Progressing group-wide physical training in tactical and military applications
00:22:14 Timing hot/cold contrast therapy with aerobic training and development
00:30:37 Are there genetic limitations to aerobic threshold improvements?
00:39:44 Reasons for decrease in aerobic threshold after high-altitude expedition?
00:41:28 Dialing local muscular fatigue levels during weighted uphill carries
00:44:38 Mixed modality aerobic base work vs. specific aerobic base work
00:49:40 Running a sub-3 hour road marathon while training for a 100k mountain running race
00:54:11 Progressing from short to longer duration hill sprints, and their training effect
00:58:00 Fixing aerobic deficiency syndrome and determining aerobic threshold at high elevations
01:02:07 Why an amateur cannot train weekly volumes similar to an elite athlete
01:05:50 Common performance declines with aging
01:09:33 Mitigating knee pain caused by down-hill running
01:15:41 Effective recovery methods during taper before a race

Join Evoke coach Dave Thompson for a discussion with Luis Freitas. Luis is an ambitious and talented alpinist and mountaineer who seeks to survive and thrive while managing his type 1 diabetes in high altitude and technical terrain. Learn about how Luis approaches his objectives, and how he manages diabetes while training, and on expeditions. 

Find Luis here:
https://www.instagram.com/luisartf/


00:00:00 Introduction
00:01:34 Why Luis chose to pursue climbing
00:02:31 Differences for a diabetic during high-output activities
00:03:54 How Luis fuels for activity
00:08:47 Luis’ solo attempt of Aconcagua
00:15:47 Surprising serum red blood cell increases with heat exposure training
00:22:29 Luis’ observations of fellow climbers performance on Aconcagua versus his own
00:24:08 How training re-framed Luis’ expectations of the trip
00:24:59 Luis’ future climbing objectives
00:27:18 The added risks of a diabetic engaging in technical climbing 
00:32:08 Luis’ long-term learning process
00:34:02 Luis’ future projects and ambitions
00:36:35 Luis’ final thoughts

Join Evoke coach Larry Goldie for a discussion with Jesse Crocker. Jesse is the creator of Goat Maps, an adventure mapping and route-planning app, as well as an Evoke Endurance athlete. Larry and Jesse discuss Jesse’s thinking behind the creation of Goat Maps, and his experiences as an athlete, and mountain enthusiast. 

More information  on the Goat Maps app:
https://www.goatmaps.com/

https://www.instagram.com/goatmaps/

00:00:00 Introduction
00:01:12 What brought Jesse to Evoke as a coached athlete
00:05:10 Jesse’s experience helping create the Gaia mapping app
00:10:45 The creation and features of Goat Maps app
00:15:00 Intention for an intuitive user experience
00:21:15 Mountain sports that can best utilize Goat Maps
00:24:32 Utilization of satellite and 3d imagery
00:28:35 Goat Maps customizable slope angle and aspect shading
00:35:08 Almost world-wide map coverage
00:40:29 Up-coming features and improvements to Goat Maps
00:43:11 How to find Goat Maps on the internet

Join coaches Scott Johnston and Kylee Toth for our February installment of Ask Evoke, where they answer training questions submitted by members of the Evoke Endurance community.

To submit your own training questions for our coaches, send us a direct message on Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/evokeendurance/

Or email your questions to [email protected]

00:00:00 Introduction
00:01:24 Managing races that are 2-weeks apart
00:05:55 Sacrificing mileage for elevation gain as a mountain runner
00:16:19 Measuring uphill and downhill accumulation in a mountaineering training plan
00:19:14 Wim Hoff breathing positively affecting zone 2 performance?
00:23:12 Combating heart rate decoupling during long duration cycling training
00:32:36 Next steps after a muscular endurance block
00:35:26 Combining mountain and road running in one season
00:40:52 High-rep core circuits vs. max-strength core routines
00:53:34 Training considerations with long-Covid symptoms
00:58:24 Sufficient leg strength for skiing Mt. Rainier?
01:15:14 Should heart-rate drift tests be tailored to my event?
01:18:30 Avoiding overtraining on hilly terrain with aerobic deficiency syndrome
01:21:51 Progressing from walking to running hills
01:24:22 Delayed vs. early and systematic carb intake during training?
01:33:51 Determining intensity adjustments for shorter events
01:42:32 Strategies for racing at altitude without being acclimated

Join Evoke coach Larry Goldie for a discussion with Ian Nicholson. Ian is a professional mountain guide with decades of experience as an alpinist in mountain ranges all around the world. 

00:00:00 Introduction
00:01:45 Ian’s early days of climbing
00:09:40 Ian’s beginning ambitions to be a mountain guide
00:12:39 Being a good skier as a guide
00:16:11 Ian’s experiences becoming an A.M.G.A. certified guide
00:24:06 Dividing time instructing guides and guiding clients
00:24:43 Common mistakes made while navigating the training process for guides
00:34:37 Balancing life as a mountain guide and having a family
00:39:30 Adapting training with age and time constraints
00:46:39 Ian’s future climbing goals

Join Evoke coach Mark Postle for a discussion with Sam Hennessey about all things Denali. Sam is a professional guide with extensive experience guiding and climbing on Denali, and in the Alaska Range.

Learn more about Sam Hennessey here:
www.sunwolfadventures.com

0:00:00 Introduction
0:02:20 Sam’s experience in the Alaska Range
0:04:41 The remoteness of the Alaska Range and existing there
0:08:44 Factors that create uncertainty during an expedition
0:10:49 Alaska Range has unreliable weather forecasting
0:15:39 Being flexible with day-to-day planning
0:20:24 Summit attempts from 14k ft vs. 17k ft
0:22:58 Underestimating cold and altitude
0:24:36 Greater levels of energy expenditure unique to climbing in the Alaska Range
0:26:11 Common scenarios resulting in failure to summit
0:36:23 The necessity of training and practice on technical terrain
0:41:03 A multi-year approach for success on Denali
0:42:07 Limited bandwidth for skill instruction while on the mountain
0:50:45 Logistical challenges on Denali
0:52:45 Ways to reduce weight on Denali
0:59:41 Heat exposure on Denali
1:02:13 Best practices for descending after summiting
1:04:17 Observations of unguided parties on Denali
1:09:07 Efficient strategies for meal prep
1:14:01 Thoughts on decision-making high on Denali
1:23:48 Sam’s final thoughts about climbing Denali