Conscious Chatter

In episode 94, Kestrel welcomes Anna Lisa Grieve, the co-creator of Recess City, to the show. A lifestyle and travel blog, Recess City is a project by Anna Lisa and her husband Porter. Since September 2017, they have been traveling the world, living in hotels and showcasing ethical fashion brands along the way.

"People suddenly realized that their food came from somewhere and that it mattered how it was made, and I think the same thing is happening in the world of fashion now. And, people are not just looking at clothing as a thing but understanding that there is a person behind it." -Anna Lisa of Recess City

Throughout this episode, Anna Lisa shares more on how she got into blogging, and how it has evolved into a business + lifestyle her her and her husband Porter. Also, Kestrel + Anna Lisa discuss the complexities when it comes to defining what "ethical fashion" means. Stay tuned for later in the show when Anna Lisa rounds up some of her favorite ethical fashion brands of the moment.

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• Tribe Alive, first ethical company that Recess City partnered with, which inspired their shift in focus to all ethical fashion brands
• "First you have to make it, then you have to master it, and then you have to make it matter" - quote mentioned by Anna Lisa which reflects her goals for 2018
• Girlfriend Collective, an ethical brand Anna Lisa loves
• Nisolo, an ethical brand Anna Lisa loves
• Will & Bear, an ethical brand Anna Lisa loves
• "Don't wear what's in, wear it out." - a mindset Anna Lisa and her husband Porter like to live by when it comes to their clothing

In episode 94, Kestrel welcomes Suzanne Lewis, the founder & designer of Zanni to the show. By reinventing the classic little black dress, Zanni uses technical performance fabrics and manufactures in Los Angeles to create what they call, "dresses for whatever."

"As much as people made fun of the athleisure trend when it came out, I think what we're seeing is that everyone wants to be comfortable, and people want balance. They don't want to have to have one outfit for each activity of the day - they want to have an outfit that works with them." -Suzanne Lewis, Founder & Designer of Zanni

Throughout this episode, Kestrel and Suzanne discuss where performance fabrics fit into the fashion industry today. Suzanne shares what determined her fabric choice for her dresses, and more on what polyamide elastanes are comprised of.

Suzanne opens up about the difficulty in finding the best feeling fabric for her dresses, and how while she wants to bring recycled poly options into her pieces down the line, she hasn't found the best fit for her designs yet. For Suzanne, the longevity and usability of a design is her top priority.

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• Maker's Row, platform Suzanne used to help in her sourcing process
• Polyamide Elastane, fabric used in Zanni's dresses
• Reformation's Factory Tours in LA
• Fashion Tech Forum, event held near LA, October 2017
• Island Earth, documentary Kestrel mentions in the intro

In episode 93, Kestrel welcomes Eileen Mockus, the CEO of Coyuchi, and Margot Lyons, Coyuchi's Sustainability + Production Manager to the show. A home textile company that is committed to using minimally processed organic & natural fibers, Coyuchi also has a human commitment to the hands that touch each product.

"We do sense that the customer is looking for newness, and this allows them to have that newness but at the same time, gives us the ability to take that product back and do something else with it." -Eileen Mockus, CEO of Coyuchi on Coyuchi For Life

Throughout this episode, Kestrel explores Coyuchi's evolving business model with Eileen and Margot. They also focus on the complexities of finding organic linen, and how Coyuchi discovered a small group of farmers in Europe who are growing organic flax, and using it as a rotational crop. Apparently, the organic flax regenerates their fields for the organic food crops that are their primary source of income.

Additionally, Kestrel, Eileen and Margot discuss Coyuchi's recently launched Coyuchi For Life program, which is a circular subscription service for linens. As they say, "new linens, no landfills". Coyuchi has collaborated with The Renewal Workshop to help close the loop on this project.

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• Patagonia, Eileen's first job out of college
• Pottery Barn, Eileen worked with their team to bring organic cotton into their offering
• GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard), an important standard for Coyuchi
• Fair Trade USA Standard, specific to factory workers - used by Coyuchi
• Fair Trade International, specific to farmers - used by Coyuchi
• Coyuchi For Life, their approach to transition to a circular business model
• Renewal Workshop, Coyuchi's partner in their circular program
• Environmental Working Group, laundry recommendations

In episode 92, Kestrel welcomes Lyn Slater, the woman behind Accidental Icon, to the show. A cultural influencer, professor, model, writer, content creator and speaker, Lyn has been featured in Women's Wear Daily, Refinery29, WhoWhatWear, and more. She shares the true story of how she got the name Accidental Icon, and how it wasn't as much of an accidental story as the press has led us to think.

"She is the woman who ... does not consume garments, she lives her life in them and dresses honestly." -Lyn Slater, Accidental Icon

Throughout this episode, Kestrel and Lyn discuss ideas around whether or not fashion and consumption innately have to go hand-in-hand. Lyn shares her distinct thoughts on personal style or "no style", and how she's always been interested in the connection between dressing and identity. Additionally, Lyn outlines how she has always used fashion in what she calls a "performative way" to express her identity at any given time in the world.

For Lyn, she has never let her education get stagnant - she is always pushing forward to keep up, to understand more, and to continue to learn.

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• Yohji Yamamoto, designer Lyn often wears
• Orange Fiber, by Ferragamo
• Parsons School Of Design, building their fashion program around sustainability
• "It's also for me a really supreme act of creativity - I get a lot of pleasure from composing an outfit. It's almost like sculpting and clothes and accessories are my materials that I use." -Lyn
• "I'm experimenting with who I am, and I'm doing it every day and all the time, and clothes are a big part of it." -Lyn
• Tavi Gevinson, Editor-In-Chief of Rookie Magazine
• The Crossroads of Should And Must by Elle Luna
• "Remember you're always an educator, but not a lecturer." -Lyn
• The Craftivist Collective, UK-based gentle activism approach to change

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This week's Conscious Chatter episode is brought to you by: Soluna Collective, an eco and ethical design company that makes products for your home. As a company, they respect the environment and the people living in it.

INTERESTED IN CHECKING IT OUT? Use promo code CONSCIOUSCHATTER for an exclusive 15% discount off of your Soluna Collective order!

In episode 91, Kestrel welcomes Harper Poe, the founder of Proud Mary, to the show. By partnering with global artisans to design modern goods using age-old techniques, Proud Mary grants local artisans an exponentially larger audience, while bolstering the creative industry within their communities.

"People are going to keep buying clothes - that's not going to slow down, I don't think ... I think it's hard from a marketing point of view when both of those things are lumped together because artisan made and factory production are two very different things." -Harper Poe, founder of Proud Mary

Throughout this episode, Kestrel and Harper discuss the evolution of Proud Mary, and the newest direction Harper has taken the company in shifting to a direct-to-consumer model. They also explore the intricate differences between artisan made and ethical factory production, especially when it comes to whether or not this is something shoppers are paying close attention to.

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• Aid To Artisans, a group Proud Mary worked with in their early years
• Nest, a group Proud Mary worked with in their early years
• Design Sponge, mentioned by Harper as part of the early blogger craze
• West African Trade Hub, helped Proud Mary develop a partnership with an artisan group in Mali
• Units / Multiples, modular clothing store in the '80s
• Interview of Kestrel on Proud Mary, which outlines several topics discussed in this chat
• Proud Mary's Rafia Shoe Styles, a popular item
• Proud Mary's knitwear collection, made in Bolivia

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This week's Conscious Chatter episode is brought to you by: Soluna Collective, an eco and ethical design company that makes products for your home. As a company, they respect the environment and the people living in it.

INTERESTED IN CHECKING IT OUT? Use promo code CONSCIOUSCHATTER for an exclusive 15% discount off of your Soluna Collective order!

In episode 90, Kestrel welcomes Davis Smith, the CEO and founder of Cotopaxi to the show. A brand that creates innovative outdoor products and experiences, Cotopaxi works to fund sustainable poverty relief, move people to do good, and inspire adventure.

"Originally I think ... it was the grantmaking ... where we were going to have our impact, but as we've started to put together these impact reports, I'm seeing that a lot of the impact that we're having is actually through our purchasing power, it's through our supply chain. " -Davis Smith, founder + CEO of Cotopaxi

Throughout this episode, Kestrel and Davis discuss Cotopaxi's business model, and Davis shares more on his intention with the company to use business to alleviate poverty - through what they like to call "holistic development".

Davis also shares more on how Cotopaxi has built partnerships with llama farmers in Bolivia, and how they use llama wool as insulation in some of their jackets (instead of down or some kind of synthetic insulation).

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• The Wharton School, where Davis received his MBA
• 3 pillars Cotopaxi addresses in their work toward poverty alleviation: Healthcare, Education + Livelihood Training
• Proximity Designs, Myanmar-based nonprofit Cotopaxi works with
• Educate Girls, India-based nonprofit Cotopaxi works with
• Questival, outdoor adventure race held all over the U.S. + hosted by Cotopaxi

In episode 89, Kestrel welcomes Christina Stembel, the founder of Farmgirl Flowers, to the show. An online floral shop that is dedicated to creating good jobs, Farmgirl Flowers is also focused on maintaining a sustainable supply chain, and minimizing waste in the floral industry. "INSTEAD OF HAVING 40-60% WASTE OF FLOWERS, WE HAVE LESS THAN 1% WASTE." -CHRISTINA, FOUNDER OF FARMGIRL FLOWERS

Throughout this episode, Kestrel and Christina chat about the complicated supply chain behind the floral industry, and the impact it has on farmers, and the environment - especially when it comes to waste.

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• 40% of cut flowers are thrown away in the U.S. because the shops can't sell them before they die.
• Flower shops must up-charge their bouquets in order to compensate for the flowers that are expected to be wasted.
• Ritual Roasters, first place Christina sourced burlap coffee bags from for their flower wraps.
• Christina took inspiration from In-N-Out Burger, because they were doing one thing really well; when she launched Farmgirl Flowers, the "less is more" trend hadn't taken off yet.

_________________________________________________________________________

This week's Conscious Chatter episode is brought to you by: Soluna Collective, an eco and ethical design company that makes products for your home. As a company, they respect the environment and the people living in it.

INTERESTED IN CHECKING IT OUT? Use promo code CONSCIOUSCHATTER for an exclusive 15% discount off of your Soluna Collective order!

In episode 88, Kestrel welcomes Annette Lasala Spillane, the founder and CEO of TARA (The Artisan Row Accessories), to the show. Known for their buildable fine jewelry, TARA intentionally designs each piece so it stands beautifully on its own, but can also be stylishly interchanged with with other pieces in their collection.

Throughout this episode, Kestrel and Annette chat about the era of customization, whether it's here to stay, and in what capacity. They also discuss individual ideas of personal style, and innovative ways to make the clothes in your closet go a long way.

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• Will Mass Customization Work For Fashion? -via Business of Fashion

• "I don't think that complete free-for-all, white canvas customisation works. What works is certain parameters that a designer has left for the consumer. It's potentially 10 or 20 percent designed by the customer, enough that it feels individual, without tampering with the creative direction of the brand." -Jose Neves, the founder and CEO of Farfetch, in the above article

• Gemological Institute Of America, where Annette took a class when she decided to build TARA

• Asia-Pacific Economic Cooperation, event where the early beginnings of TARA were born

This week's Conscious Chatter episode is brought to you by: ARC Apparel.

ARC Apparel is an online marketplace for responsible fashion. They do the research and source brands that are doing notable things in the industry, in the realms of sustainability, ethics, and giving back.

INTERESTED IN CHECKING IT OUT? Use promo code consciouschatter20 for an exclusive 20% discount off of your ARC Apparel order!

Now through December 24th, 2017, 5% of their sales will go toward sponsoring families through the YMCA Holiday Giving Program.

In episode 87, Kestrel welcomes Eric Korman, the CEO and Founder of PHLUR, an Austin-based startup that is the first all-digital fragrance company.

With PHLUR, customers get an immersive online experience where they can view images, playlists and horoscope-like descriptions to choose their fragrance style without actually having to smell it first. Apparently, it's scientifically proven that humans smell first with their eyes.

"One thing that's kind of crazy about the fragrance category is that brands aren't legally required to disclose what they put in the bottle." -Eric, CEO of PHLUR

Eric shares insight into the psychology of scent, and how these concepts drove his framework for building his company.

• The second you spray fragrance on your body, the scent begins to evolve because your body is a little heater.
• Dr. Rachel Herz, expert on the psychology of scent
• Anne Serrano McClain, helps develop PHLUR's scents
• IUCN Red List, list of endangered + threatened plant species, which are all prohibited from being used in PHLUR's products
• Scent is damaged by light, which is strange when 98% of the perfumes on the market are showcased in clear glass bottles. Turns out, brands typically add the preservative BHT to counteract this. PHLUR uses opaque bottles instead, and doesn't have to add anything extra.
• Made Safe, certification body
• EWG, Environmental Working Group
• Bioaccumulation
• Leaping Bunny, cruelty-free badge
• In 2017, only 4 or 5% of the fragrance category is purchased online, which is extremely low compared to other categories today.

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Wear Your Values: The Global Premiere of Riverblue

Join me on Sunday, November 19th for the international premiere of the RiverBlue documentary. In collaboration with Remake, GlobeIn, Coyuchi, Fashion Revolution and Wildlife Works, the event will take place at the Roxie Theater. Following the screening, I'll be moderating a brief Q&A with industry experts from Remake, GlobeIn and Coyuchi.

Get Your Tickets Here

In episode 86, Kestrel welcomes Jessica Marati Radparvar, the founder of Reconsidered, to the show. A boutique consultancy that helps organizations build impactful social responsibility strategies, communications and community, Reconsidered is all about driving positive behavior change.

"Reconsidering and just taking a second look at things that we've always taken for granted is something that's so needed in this day-in-age, because business as usual is not an option - it simply isn't." -Jessica of Reconsidered

Throughout this chat, Jessica shares stories about her path, and how she has found herself enthralled with the social impact conversation, and especially, innovative approaches to shifting behavior.

She shares her thoughts on where we are today when it comes to telling the sustainable fashion story, and where she thinks we can improve moving forward.

Sign up for Jessica's bomb bi-weekly newsletter that features thought-provoking content on corporate responsibility, sustainability and social impact.

Here are a few of the people, projects and ideas brought up throughout this chat:

• Lynn Yaeger, former colleague of Jessica + current writer for Vogue.com
• Quirky, company Jessica worked for, that believes the "best product ideas in the world come from real people like you"
• Michael Posner + Sarah Labowitz, cofounders of The NYU Stern Center for Business and Human Rights
• Change Management
• BSR + Futerra Report on "Selling Sustainability"
• BBMG Five Human Aspirations Report
• Tom's VR Experience, integrated into their giving trip
• Fashion For Good, project based in Amsterdam Jessica is currently working with