Fashion

Fashion is very often pure escapism – but today, that couldn't be further from the truth. For proof, look no further than the catwalk decors that provide a backdrop for designers' latest ready-to-wear collections. Next winter's offerings were largely a realisation of the most unsettling contemporary fears: Kenzo's show (pictured) took place in quarantine, while Japanese designer Mame Kurogouchi set up camp at Paris's Faculty of Pharmacy and the Balenciaga show was submerged by rising sea levels.

Fashion is always one season ahead, defined by its link to the disruptions that push our society forward. For its winter 2020 ready-to-wear collections, Chanel sends both slim and voluptuous models down the catwalk; black and white women dressed as musketeers. Balmain rethinks the very concept of the bourgeoisie, while Nigerian designer Kenneth Ize joins his South African colleague Thebe Magugu in turning to his roots for inspiration. Last but not least, Japanese designers Issey Miyake and Yohji Yamamoto look to the future with a rebellious and positive outlook.

This year, three strong messages were conveyed at Paris fashion week: at Dior, Maria Grazia Chiuri once again flaunts her feminist credentials, Marine Serre embraces recycling, while Dawei advocates for courtesy and respect. The Chinese designer chose to self-quarantine, on the remote off chance he’s brought coronavirus back from Beijing.

Togo's seventh International Fashion Festival is proof that fashion can be both fun and informative. This year, the event teamed up with the UN in its fight against HIV/AIDS. A fashion show organised in the streets of the capital Lomé was a colourful celebration of home-grown talent, a night that culminated in the distribution of free contraception to the crowds. FRANCE 24 went to check it out.

The garden of a luxury hotel opposite the sea provides the idyllic setting for the seventh edition of Fimo228, the International Festival of African Fashion in Lomé, Togo. Its founder, designer and model agency boss Jacques Logoh has selected 32 stylists to promote the very best of contemporary African fashion. A celebration of cultural cross-pollination, the event shows the African continent at its sartorial best. FRANCE 24 went to check it out.

It was the hot ticket of the Haute Couture 2020 collections: Jean-Paul Gaultier’s final catwalk show, after a 50-year career. Paris's Châtelet Theatre was packed to the rafters and the atmosphere was electric as the French designer unveiled a collection made up of 200 pieces, all featuring his trademark details: the iconic Breton striped shirt, underwear worn as outerwear, the conical bra and embroidered jeans. Everyone is now wondering what he's going to do next. Watch our show to find out!

Paris Fashion Week has surpassed its own personal best this season, with some 60 men's fashion shows over six days from a variety of international brands. On days one and two, three labels turned heads among the press: Belgian designer Walter Van Beirendonck and his rejection of political correctness; the French collective Etudes Studio, which drew inspiration from the films "Fantastic Planet" and "Terminator 2"; plus Israeli designer Hed Mayner, who delved into the Arte Povera movement for his looks.

They’re between 19 and 30 years old and are determined to do things differently. They don’t advertise in magazines, and don’t even sell their clothes in boutiques - although they might make an exception for a pop-up shop! An impressive crop of young fashion designers recently came together to exhibit their creations at the third edition of the Open Mode Festival, at Paris's Grande Halle de la Villette. So what do this new generation of designers want? Here's a clue: eco-responsible fashion is centre stage!

In the world of fashion, 2019 represented nothing less than a paradigm shift. With the global conversation increasingly aware of the perils of climate change and overconsumption, fashion has had to adapt. With the public consuming differently, designers have had to find new ways to stay relevant. Shifting sartorial codes is no longer an idea, but an obligation. That goes for everyone from Jean Paul Gaultier and Chanel to the likes of Dior and Saint Laurent. FRANCE 24 takes a closer look.

The digital revolution and explosion of social media have given rise to an entirely new job in fashion: the influencer. Courted by brands, influencers are closer to "consultants" than journalists. Steves Hounkponou is one of the unique personalities in this dynamic new landscape, with more than 117,000 followers on Instagram. He tells us his unique story, from his childhood in Benin to his successful career in Paris.