Fashion

The 9th edition of FIMO, Togo's international fashion festival, didn’t open with a series of fashion shows, but instead with a science symposium organised by the University of Lomé. The theme of the discussion: how to pursue ethical fashion production while Africa continues to be the recipient of thousands of tonnes of the rest of the world’s unsold merchandise? And how to make the most of the rich pool of African design talent? We get some insightful answers from designers, fashion students and academics.

The Lyon Fashion Film Festival is open to admissions from both art schools and brands. This year’s second edition of the event showcased a parade of fresh young talents who aren’t afraid to ruffle a few feathers. The winner of the designers' prize, Rémy Perrier, credits fashion with helping him to discover his true queer identity. Meanwhile, the collective 16:25 was awarded the Students' Prize for "Programmé.e", their mesmerising depiction of the drawn-out agony of the mourning process, juxtaposed with the frenetic pace of disposable fashion. FRANCE 24 takes a closer look.

He doesn't often speak to the media, but when he does, we listen. Since 2018, Italian designer Riccardo Tisci has been at the helm of British fashion powerhouse Burberry. The chief creative officer speaks to us exclusively about his life and his sartorial vision. Back in Paris, we take a look at the latest offerings from Yohji Yamamoto and Christelle Kocher, who both place diversity and cultural exchanges at the heart of their work.

This year’s Berlin Fashion Week, which was held in one of the city’s former electrical factories mid-March, was largely focused on the work of Jean Gritsfeldt. The Ukrainian fashion designer was unable to attend in person as he could not leave Kyiv due to the war. But activist movement Fashion Revolution managed to recreate key items of his collection from scratch. It was a powerful cross-border collaboration and a message of peace, which Berlin designers Esther Perbandt and Natacha Von Hirschhausen helped to spread.

With war raging in Ukraine, it's not easy to know how to speak about fashion – if at all. The best answer is to face the paradox. Thanks to the French Federation for Haute Couture and Fashion, Ukrainian designer Lilia Litovskaya is now safe in Paris. At Balenciaga, Demna Gvasalia, who fled a Kremlin-backed civil war in Georgia in 1993, offers up a hostile backdrop for his collection. Labels Marine Serrre, Atlein, Benmoyal and Germanier, meanwhile, are championing freedom of expression with their eco-friendly offerings.

War may have broken out in Europe, but the world of fashion has decided that the show  – that is, next winter's ready-to-wear Fashion Week – must go on. Financial interests no doubt played a large part in that decision, but so too did the conviction that now isn't the time to be stifling artistic expression. For the occasion, Dior takes advantage of technological innovation, Caribbean duo Botter defend coral reefs and the French Institute of Fashion encourages its students to embrace virtual reality.

For the ninth edition of FIMO228, Togo's international fashion festival, the event's founder Jacques Logoh is training the spotlight on a diverse cast of models. Larissa Solim Amelete, the face of this year's event, has succeeded in getting her family to support her modelling career, while Cathy Crussy, a TV producer, is in her 50s. Then there's Rebecca Attiogbé, who drives a forklift truck for a day job, and Alex Sef, the androgynous muse for Ethiopian label Afropian this season. FRANCE 24 went to meet them.

Haute couture is about innovation and exquisite tailoring, but it's also about ideas. Franco-Cameroonian designer Imane Ayissi, the first Black designer honoured with the title of "couturier" by France's Federation of Haute Couture and Fashion, offers a collection that fuses Western and African influences. Meanwhile, Japan's Yuima Nakazato interrogates the limits of our abilities of perception with his "Liminal" collection. And after a two-year absence, Lebanese couturier Elie Saab is overjoyed to be back in Paris. FRANCE 24 takes you to the catwalks at Paris Fashion Week.

January's summer 2022 Couture Fashion Week showcased the latest sartorial offerings from 17 labels, just over half the number included in the official calendar due to ongoing Covid restrictions. Dior's Maria-Grazia Chiuri offered an ode to embroidery at Paris's Rodin museum, Jean Paul Gaultier handed the reigns of his empire over to Belgian designer Glenn Martens, while Alexandre Vauthier embraced the Roaring Twenties as an homage to our collective resilience in the face of the Covid-19 pandemic. FRANCE 24 takes you to the catwalks.

Without a doubt, Louis Vuitton's collection was this year's most hotly anticipated runway show. It was dedicated to the late Virgil Abloh, the label's visionary creative director, who died of cancer in November 2021 at just 41. Covid-19 meant programming was a little lighter than usual, but a host of young labels also managed to put on shows: EgonLab, Georges Wendell and Lukhanyo Mdingi made a particularly good impression, while Kim Jones at Dior Homme put on one of the most beautiful shows of his career. FRANCE 24 takes you to the catwalks at Paris Fashion Week.