Members of the Central New Hampshire Climbers Association are on the pod today to share full details about the current status of climbing and development at Merriam Woods/Russell Crag. Things are in full swing and we need your help! Jay is joined by Chris Vaughn, Katie Vaughn and Mike Gagnon to tell you all about it: 

We’ll talk about: 

• The current state of access to Merriam Woods and Russell Crag
• CNHCA’s recent land purchase to build a parking lot for Merriam Woods
• The work CNHCA is putting in to develop routes and further access in the area
• How you can get involved with the development of Merriam Woods!  

Visit www.centralnhclimbers.org to support our mission of developing Merriam Woods

Reach out at [email protected] with any questions or if you’d like to get involved. 

CNHCA will be at these events coming up! Join us: 

May 30th at The Concord Climbing Gym 6-8pm

June 7th at Twin Barns in North Woodstock in the evening

For more information about events, follow CNHCA on Instagram @centralnhclimbers

Join us over on the First Ascent Patreon. For $5, $7 or $10 a month, you’ll get access to wide ranging bonus content from greats like Mark Hudon, Scott Stevenson and many more. Plus you’ll get a Discord chat, exclusive beta, route info, and more. Check it out here:  https://www.patreon.com/FirstAscentPodcast

Do you have a listener question or a topic idea? Let us know at @firstascentpod on Instagram! Jay can be found at @jayknower. 

Disclaimer: 

The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

Author, philosopher, and long time climber Francis Sanzaro is back on the pod to dive into how to manage your mindset (for both climbing and life) during times of loss, grief, overwhelm, or even just less than perfect conditions. 

Francis is the author of The Zen of Climbing, a must read for any climber seeking to develop a stronger mindset toward climbing. His first episode on First Ascent Pod can be heard here. 

We’ll cover: 

• Navigating grief with a zen approach
• How deep emotions like grief and loss can affect you as a climber 
• Jay’s experience trying Francis’s zen approach to climbing in Killer Cave 
• Why you need to stop waiting for a flow state in order to climb
• The surprising mindset approach of a pro climber  
• Why you need to get past chasing a dopamine hit to heighten your performance

Check out all of Francis’s incredible writing at www.fsanzaro.com

Join us over on the First Ascent Patreon. For $5, $7 or $10 a month, you’ll get access to wide ranging bonus content from greats like Mark Hudon, Scott Stevenson and many more. Plus you’ll get a Discord chat, exclusive beta, route info, and more. Check it out here:  https://www.patreon.com/FirstAscentPodcast

Do you have a listener question or a topic idea? Let us know at @firstascentpod on Instagram! Jay can be found at @jayknower. 

Disclaimer: 

The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

Few people have amassed a more impressive resume in the outdoors than climber, mountaineer, and author Conrad Anker. Just read his Wikipedia page, for starters! Included in Conrad’s accolades are two summits of Everest under his belt (including one where he found George Mallory’s body), a prolific list of first ascents around the globe, and a 26 year history as the lead of the North Face Climbing Team. 

Today, Conrad shares stories, insights and wisdom from almost a half century of climbing. 

You’ll hear about: 

• His experience at the center of the sport climbing boom in the 80s and 90s
• Conrad’s approach to bolting and how it has changed through the decades
• How Conrad has dealt with the grief of losing beloved climbing partners
• The psychology of risk 
• The incredible legacy and history of route names 
• Our responsibilities toward the environment and culture as climbers
• How professional climbing has changed since the beginning of his career 

Check out more about Conrad’s incredible career at www.conradanker.com 

Join us over on the First Ascent Patreon. For $5, $7 or $10 a month, you’ll get access to wide ranging bonus content from greats like Mark Hudon, Scott Stevenson and many more. Plus you’ll get a Discord chat, exclusive beta, route info, and more. Check it out here:  https://www.patreon.com/FirstAscentPodcast

Do you have a listener question or a topic idea? Let us know at @firstascentpod on Instagram! Jay can be found at @jayknower. 

Disclaimer: 

The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

New Hampshire native and author Ty Gagne joins the pod today to discuss the harrowing and heroic history of rescues in the White Mountains. Ty shares his in depth knowledge on some of the most well known rescues in The Whites, and what we can learn from them in regards to decision making, leadership and risk management.

We’ll also discuss how the members of search and rescue (many of them volunteers!) view their important work, and why we should check our judgement on the ‘mistakes’ that people make when they find themselves in need of high risk rescue. 

Ty’s books are available for purchase here: 

Lions of Winter: Survival and Sacrifice on Mount Washington

The Last Traverse: Tragedy and Resilience in the Winter Whites

Where You’ll Find Me: Risks, Decisions, and the Last Climb of Kate Matrosova

Join us over on the First Ascent Patreon. For $5, $7 or $10 a month, you’ll get access to wide ranging bonus content from greats like Mark Hudon, Scott Stevenson and many more. Plus you’ll get a Discord chat, exclusive beta, route info, and more. Check it out here:  https://www.patreon.com/FirstAscentPodcast

Do you have a listener question or a topic idea? Let us know at @firstascentpod on Instagram! Jay can be found at @jayknower. 

Disclaimer: 

The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

Rumney climber Miguel Lopez has been racking up some major sends lately (check out his recents sends of Butt Bongo and Rocketman) But what has this 5.13 climber been enjoying just as much? Dumpster diving - the exercise of sending routes with 2 or less stars on Mountain Project. 

Miguel shares why he started this practice, and how it’s benefited his ‘climbing menu’ as he works to balance his progression as a climber with enjoying the ride. 

Plus, we’ll talk about how the culture at Waimea has changed (for the better?) and our thoughts on if the Monsters crag (and specifically, Parallel Universe) is sinking. 

Check out Miguel’s climbs on Instagram @miguelprojects

Join us over on the First Ascent Patreon. For $5, $7 or $10 a month, you’ll get access to wide ranging bonus content from greats like Mark Hudon, Scott Stevenson and many more. Plus you’ll get a Discord chat, exclusive beta, route info, and more. Check it out here:  https://www.patreon.com/FirstAscentPodcast

Do you have a listener question or a topic idea? Let us know at @firstascentpod on Instagram! Jay can be found at @jayknower. 

You can now subscribe to First Ascent Pod on Youtube! 

Disclaimer: 

The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

Dave Groth is one of the undisputed forefathers of Devil’s Lake climbing. With over 40 years of climbing under his belt, he joins me full of tales about the evolution of Devil’s Lake and his legendary climbing exploits across the US and the globe.  

You’ll hear about Dave’s experiences at Yosemite, Eldorado Canyon & Waco (where legend Ron Kauk crashed at his apartment!); climbing in the early days of the Red River Gorge with Porter Jarrard; his European adventures - from Chamonix alpine climbing to crags in communist-era Czechoslovakia to sharing pints with the who’s who of 1980s British climbing; and his transition from dedicated trad climber to developing some of the first sport routes in the midwest. 

Plus, get Dave’s recommendation for a great international climbing trip! 

Join us over on the First Ascent Patreon. For $5, $7 or $10 a month, you’ll get access to wide ranging bonus content from greats like Mark Hudon, Scott Stevenson and many more. Plus you’ll get a Discord chat, exclusive beta, route info, and more. Check it out here:  https://www.patreon.com/FirstAscentPodcast

Do you have a listener question or a topic idea? Let us know at @firstascentpod on Instagram! Jay can be found at @jayknower. 

Disclaimer: 

The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

Andy Salo is a longtime climber with roots in Niagara Glen, The Gunks, Rumney and most recently, Rifle. We’ll reminisce about bouldering at The Glen, and then dive into a wide ranging conversation about climbing with small children, how mentors and partners affect your climbing journey, fostering an inclusive climbing culture that makes space for people of all skill levels, and the role that younger and older climbers have within the climbing community. 

Plus, we’ll tackle the great debate about climbing grades: Should they be changed or updated? And if so - when, how and why? 

Check out Andy in Instagram at @andywsalo

Join us over on the First Ascent Patreon. For $5, $7 or $10 a month, you’ll get access to wide ranging bonus content from greats like Mark Hudon, Scott Stevenson and many more. Plus you’ll get a Discord chat, exclusive beta, route info, and more. Check it out here:  https://www.patreon.com/FirstAscentPodcast

Do you have a listener question or a topic idea? Let us know at @firstascentpod on Instagram! Jay can be found at @jayknower.

Jim Lawyer joins me today to answer your listener questions! 

Jim will tell us about his recovery journey from major back surgery, his experiences at Serra Do Cipó in Brazil, how he balances rock climbing and photography at the crag, and what makes for his favorite kind of climbing day. 

Plus, we’ll debate the ethics of ‘Belationships’ and the criteria a person has to meet to be considered a climber of a certain grade. 

Check out Jim’s first episode on the podcast here. 

Get your copy of Jim’s Adorondacks guide book, Adorondack Rock

Follow Jim on Instagram at @jimlawyer 

Join us over on the First Ascent Patreon. For $5, $7 or $10 a month, you’ll get access to wide ranging bonus content from greats like Mark Hudon, Scott Stevenson and many more. Plus you’ll get a Discord chat, exclusive beta, route info, and more. Check it out here:  https://www.patreon.com/FirstAscentPodcast

Do you have a listener question or a topic idea? Let us know at @firstascentpod on Instagram! Jay can be found at @jayknower.

I just got back from the incredible Red River Gorge and walked away with a new appreciation for the world class climbing there. When I was paging through the guidebook, one name kept popping up: Chris Snyder. Chris was deeply involved in the golden days of development of the Red, and he’s joining me today to share the history of the storied and beloved crag. 

We’ll talk about his first impression when he and his group came across the Motherlode for the first time. Then, he’ll share how they secured access to develop at the location, the history of the area, and the mechanics of bolting at the Red. 

Plus, Chris will share his pet peeves at the crag and his advice for aging climbers. 

Follow Chris Snyder on Instagram at @lordcaffeine 

Red River Gorge Resources: 

The Red: Comprehensive Sport Climbing Crags of the Red River Gorge 

Miguel’s Pizza

Join us over on the First Ascent Patreon. For $5, $7 or $10 a month, you’ll get access to wide ranging bonus content from greats like Mark Hudon, Scott Stevenson and many more. Plus you’ll get a Discord chat, exclusive beta, route info, and more. Check it out here:  https://www.patreon.com/FirstAscentPodcast

Do you have a listener question or a topic idea? Let us know at @firstascentpod on Instagram! Jay can be found at @jayknower. 

Disclaimer: 

The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

Brian O’Leary just did the first ascent of the hardest mixed climb in New England: Middle Child, an M-13 at the mica mine. We’ll talk about his process for sending the route and what M-13 means in the mixed climbing world. Then, we’ll discuss the complicated ethics that arise when developing on choss. 

Plus, Jay helps Brian choose his first 5.13 sport climb to tackle! 

Brian is co-founder and owner of Forecast Climbing Equipment. Check out their awesome line of products here. 

Join us over on the First Ascent Patreon. For $5, $7 or $10 a month, you’ll get access to wide ranging bonus content from greats like Mark Hudon, Scott Stevenson and many more. Plus you’ll get a Discord chat, exclusive beta, route info, and more. Check it out here:  https://www.patreon.com/FirstAscentPodcast

Do you have a listener question or a topic idea? Let us know at @firstascentpod on Instagram! Jay can be found at @jayknower. 

Disclaimer: 

The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.