Professional climber Justin Salas has many accolades under his belt, including six national championships and a 2018 world championship. He is a V11 climber outside, and he is also legally blind. 

Today, Justin shares how climbing changed his life after he became blind at 14 years old. He’ll also share his thoughts on what it takes to be a professional climber in today’s environment, the ways in which climbing is different for him due to his visual impairment, his path to competitive climbing, and how a change in mindset has allowed him to find deeper joy in the act of climbing for climbing’s sake. 

Check out Justin on Instagram here. 

Join us over on the First Ascent Patreon. For $5, $7 or $10 a month, you’ll get access to wide ranging bonus content from greats like Mark Hudon, Scott Stevenson and many more. Plus you’ll get a Discord chat, exclusive beta, route info, and more. Check it out here:  https://www.patreon.com/FirstAscentPodcast

Do you have a listener question or a topic idea? Let us know at @firstascentpod on Instagram! Jay can be found at @jayknower. 

Disclaimer: 

The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

This is one you won’t want to miss - Jay’s climbing coach, Galina Parfenov, is on the show today to publicly critique Jay’s climbing! 

Galina Parfenov is a full time remote climbing coach that specializes in building individualized training programs for climbers of all ages and ability levels, with a focus on strength training and form analysis through video feedback. She has been climbing and competing professionally since she was 13 years old, and has climbed up to 8b/13D, and she is just all around a badass climber and person. 

Today Galina shares her thoughts on the importance of weight training for climbers; how to choose the right route project; how to manage a workout schedule in a realistic way that fits your life, needs and stoke; and how she’s pushing back against the taboo of upgrading. 

If you’re looking for a climbing coach, I recommend Galina wholeheartedly! Learn more about Galina and her coaching at www.parfenovtraining.com or on Instagram at @parfenovtraining

Join us over on the First Ascent Patreon. For $5, $7 or $10 a month, you’ll get access to wide ranging bonus content from greats like Mark Hudon, Scott Stevenson and many more. Plus you’ll get a Discord chat, exclusive beta, route info, and more. Check it out here:  https://www.patreon.com/FirstAscentPodcast

Do you have a listener question or a topic idea? Let us know at @firstascentpod on Instagram! Jay can be found at @jayknower. 

Disclaimer: 

The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

Ice climbing extraordinaire JC Dubeau joins me in the studio today for a fantastic conversation about his incredible career in ice climbing. He’ll share his thoughts on the mindset and training necessary for ice climbing, how he navigates danger when soloing, how ice climbing differs by region, his gear opinions, and the ways in which ice climbing has affected his rock climbing. 

JC is a guest guide at this year’s Mt. Washington Valley Ice Fest Jan 31-Feb 2! Inquire about climbing with him here. 

Follow JC on Instagram here. 

Join us over on the First Ascent Patreon. For $5, $7 or $10 a month, you’ll get access to wide ranging bonus content from greats like Mark Hudon, Scott Stevenson and many more. Plus you’ll get a Discord chat, exclusive beta, route info, and more. Check it out here:  https://www.patreon.com/FirstAscentPodcast

Do you have a listener question or a topic idea? Let us know at @firstascentpod on Instagram! Jay can be found at @jayknower. 

Disclaimer: 

The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

We’ll be taking a break from the podcast for the holidays, but in the meantime, enjoy this special compilation episode celebrating all of the amazing guests who have joined us on First Ascent since the reboot. 

Thank you so much for supporting the show, especially as I’ve navigated a reboot after we all lost Lee. Have a wonderful holiday season, and enjoy this best of episode! 

If you’re in need of more First Ascent throughout the holidays, now is an amazing time to join the First Ascent Patreon! For $5, $7 or $10 a month, you’ll get access to wide ranging bonus content from greats like Mark Hudon, Scott Stevenson and dozens more. Plus you’ll get a Discord chat, exclusive beta, route info, and more. Check it out here:  https://www.patreon.com/FirstAscentPodcast

Do you have a listener question or a topic idea? Let us know at @firstascentpod on Instagram! Jay can be found at @jayknower. 

Disclaimer: 

The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

Devil’s Lake crushers Kenz Hack and Garrett Hopkins join the show today to shine a light on the fantastic climbing community that has popped up at the Lake in recent years. 

You’ll hear about the new zine Dirtbag the Lake, Kenz’s approach to climbing photography, how the current Devil’s Lake climbing community has grown and changed since Jay’s time, plus some awesome climbing tales from Devil’s Lake and beyond. 

Visit www.Kenzhackcreative.com to get your copy of the Dirtbag the Lake zine

Follow Kenz, Garrett and Crimpers of the Purple Wave on Instagram 

Join us over on the First Ascent Patreon. For $5, $7 or $10 a month, you’ll get access to wide ranging bonus content from greats like Mark Hudon, Scott Stevenson and many more. Plus you’ll get a Discord chat, exclusive beta, route info, and more. Check it out here:  https://www.patreon.com/FirstAscentPodcast

Do you have a listener question or a topic idea? Let us know at @firstascentpod on Instagram! Jay can be found at @jayknower. 

Disclaimer: 

The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

If you’re an ice climbing gearhead, then you’ve probably heard about the new picks by Beartooth Alpine Equipment. Cofounder Charlie Faust joins the pod today to tell us all about them. He’ll share how Beartooth Alpine came to be, how their picks differ from other brands on the market, the role gear advancement has played in changing the sport of ice climbing, and his personal pick sharpening tips. 

Plus, we’ll get philosophical in a talk about the light and dark motivations that lead people to climbing. 

Learn more about Beartooth Alpine Equipment here. 

Check out Mark Twight’s book Kiss or Kill. 

Join us over on the First Ascent Patreon. For $5, $7 or $10 a month, you’ll get access to wide ranging bonus content from greats like Mark Hudon, Scott Stevenson and many more. Plus you’ll get a Discord chat, exclusive beta, route info, and more. Check it out here:  https://www.patreon.com/FirstAscentPodcast

Do you have a listener question or a topic idea? Let us know at @firstascentpod on Instagram! Jay can be found at @jayknower. 

Disclaimer: 

The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

James Schroeder (aka Fudd) is back on the pod today to talk about his recent health journey with a severe heart arrhythmia. He’ll share how the health issue came to light, the surgical processes he went through to correct the issue, what the recovery process has been like for him, and how it has changed his perspective on life, fitness, and climbing. 

Plus, Fudd and Jay reminisce about an epic ice climb, and the unforgettable rock prank Fudd played on Jay.  

Join us over on the First Ascent Patreon. For $5, $7 or $10 a month, you’ll get access to wide ranging bonus content from greats like Mark Hudon, Scott Stevenson and many more. Plus you’ll get a Discord chat, exclusive beta, route info, and more. Check it out here:  https://www.patreon.com/FirstAscentPodcast

Do you have a listener question or a topic idea? Let us know at @firstascentpod on Instagram! Jay can be found at @jayknower. 

Disclaimer: 

The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

Ice climbing season is just around the corner! Today, avid ice and mixed climber Brian O’Leary is on the pod to answer your ice, mixed and dry tooling questions. 

We’ll talk about the best ways to train for ice and mixed climbing, how the design of the tools you use will affect your performance, Brian’s thoughts on the need for more dry tooling routes, where to dry tool year round, and our thoughts on route grading. 

Brian is the co-founder of Forecast Climbing Equipment. Learn more about Forecast Climbing Equipment here! 

Check out Brian’s first episode on the pod here.  

Join us over on the First Ascent Patreon. For $5, $7 or $10 a month, you’ll get access to wide ranging bonus content from greats like Mark Hudon, Scott Stevenson and many more. Plus you’ll get a Discord chat, exclusive beta, route info, and more. Check it out here:  https://www.patreon.com/FirstAscentPodcast

Do you have a listener question or a topic idea? Let us know at @firstascentpod on Instagram! Jay can be found at @jayknower. 

Disclaimer: 

The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

Rusty Talbot, candidate for NH Senate District 1, joins me on the pod today for a discussion about public service - both in the state house and at the crag. Rusty is an avid climber, the owner of the North Country Climbing Center in Lisbon, NH, a firefighter, and a search and rescue leader. 

Today, Rusty shares how climbing informs his approach to politics, what inspired him to run for state senate, where he stands in regards to issues facing New Hampshire’s outdoor recreation scene, and the importance of community involvement in all aspects of our lives.  

To learn more about Rusty and his campaign, visit https://www.rustytalbot.com/

Join us over on the First Ascent Patreon. For $5, $7 or $10 a month, you’ll get access to wide ranging bonus content from greats like Mark Hudon, Scott Stevenson and many more. Plus you’ll get a Discord chat, exclusive beta, route info, and more. Check it out here:  https://www.patreon.com/FirstAscentPodcast

Do you have a listener question or a topic idea? Let us know at @firstascentpod on Instagram! Jay can be found at @jayknower. 

Disclaimer: 

The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

Today Chris Vaughan and Mike Gagnon join me on the pod to discuss the latest developments at Merriam Woods and Russell Crag! 

We’ll talk about the history and future of Merriam Woods, how the development of a parking lot will majorly improve access, some of the best routes at the crag (for all skill levels!), the land management challenges in the area, the importance of community support to keep the crag accessible and thriving, and how you can get involved through The Central New Hampshire Climbers Association. 

If you’d like to learn more about or donate to the Central New Hampshire Climbers Association, visit https://www.centralnhclimbers.org/

Join us over on the First Ascent Patreon. For $5, $7 or $10 a month, you’ll get access to wide ranging bonus content from greats like Mark Hudon, Scott Stevenson and many more. Plus you’ll get a Discord chat, exclusive beta, route info, and more. Check it out here:  https://www.patreon.com/FirstAscentPodcast

Do you have a listener question or a topic idea? Let us know at @firstascentpod on Instagram! Jay can be found at @jayknower. 

Disclaimer: 

The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.