First Ascent Podcast

Joel Unema is on the pod today for an insightful talk about training, mindset, and even finger skin care. Joel is a 5.14 trad and sport climber, v14 boulderer, a route developer, a coach for ClimbStrong. 

You’ll hear Joel’s thoughts on the importance of route development for a community, why a climber’s identity should be focused on effort instead of talent, and great tips for how to approach your personal training plan. 

Plus, you’ll hear about Joel’s very effective finger skin care routine! 

If you’re interested in training with Joel, visit ClimbStrong

Follow Joel on Instagram

Join us over on the First Ascent Patreon. For $5, $7 or $10 a month, you’ll get access to wide ranging bonus content from greats like Mark Hudon, Scott Stevenson and many more. Plus you’ll get a Discord chat, exclusive beta, route info, and more. Check it out here:  https://www.patreon.com/FirstAscentPodcast

Do you have a listener question or a topic idea? Let us know at @firstascentpod on Instagram! Jay can be found at @jayknower. 

Disclaimer: 

The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

Jenny Fischer, CEO of Ocun North America, is here today for a great chat about running a business in the climbing industry, how sponsorship relationships work between climbers and brands, and her own climbing journey.  

You’ll hear about her love for the Cochise Stronghold climbing area in Arizona, her thoughts on being a Boulder local, how she found herself making the switch from medicine to running a climbing brand, and what you should understand if you are interested in becoming a sponsored climber with a brand. 

Check out Ocun’s line of products here. 

Follow Jenny on Instagram

Join us over on the First Ascent Patreon. For $5, $7 or $10 a month, you’ll get access to wide ranging bonus content from greats like Mark Hudon, Scott Stevenson and many more. Plus you’ll get a Discord chat, exclusive beta, route info, and more. Check it out here:  https://www.patreon.com/FirstAscentPodcast

Do you have a listener question or a topic idea? Let us know at @firstascentpod on Instagram! Jay can be found at @jayknower. 

Disclaimer: 

The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

Balin Miller joins the pod today to talk about his incredible solo ascent of Reality Bath in the Canadian Rockies, a Wi5+/6- ice climb that hasn’t seen a repeat ascent the very first ascent by Mark Twight and Randy Rackliff in 1988. 

You’ll hear Balin’s step-by-step accounting of this incredible climb. Plus, he’ll share what it was like to grow up in Alaska as the son of an alpine climber, his thoughts on high grade ice climbing, and what he plans to tackle next. 

Follow Balin on Instagram at @balin.miller

Join us over on the First Ascent Patreon. For $5, $7 or $10 a month, you’ll get access to wide ranging bonus content from greats like Mark Hudon, Scott Stevenson and many more. Plus you’ll get a Discord chat, exclusive beta, route info, and more. Check it out here:  https://www.patreon.com/FirstAscentPodcast

Do you have a listener question or a topic idea? Let us know at @firstascentpod on Instagram! Jay can be found at @jayknower. 

Disclaimer: 

The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

Professional climber Justin Salas has many accolades under his belt, including six national championships and a 2018 world championship. He is a V11 climber outside, and he is also legally blind. 

Today, Justin shares how climbing changed his life after he became blind at 14 years old. He’ll also share his thoughts on what it takes to be a professional climber in today’s environment, the ways in which climbing is different for him due to his visual impairment, his path to competitive climbing, and how a change in mindset has allowed him to find deeper joy in the act of climbing for climbing’s sake. 

Check out Justin on Instagram here. 

Join us over on the First Ascent Patreon. For $5, $7 or $10 a month, you’ll get access to wide ranging bonus content from greats like Mark Hudon, Scott Stevenson and many more. Plus you’ll get a Discord chat, exclusive beta, route info, and more. Check it out here:  https://www.patreon.com/FirstAscentPodcast

Do you have a listener question or a topic idea? Let us know at @firstascentpod on Instagram! Jay can be found at @jayknower. 

Disclaimer: 

The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

This is one you won’t want to miss - Jay’s climbing coach, Galina Parfenov, is on the show today to publicly critique Jay’s climbing! 

Galina Parfenov is a full time remote climbing coach that specializes in building individualized training programs for climbers of all ages and ability levels, with a focus on strength training and form analysis through video feedback. She has been climbing and competing professionally since she was 13 years old, and has climbed up to 8b/13D, and she is just all around a badass climber and person. 

Today Galina shares her thoughts on the importance of weight training for climbers; how to choose the right route project; how to manage a workout schedule in a realistic way that fits your life, needs and stoke; and how she’s pushing back against the taboo of upgrading. 

If you’re looking for a climbing coach, I recommend Galina wholeheartedly! Learn more about Galina and her coaching at www.parfenovtraining.com or on Instagram at @parfenovtraining

Join us over on the First Ascent Patreon. For $5, $7 or $10 a month, you’ll get access to wide ranging bonus content from greats like Mark Hudon, Scott Stevenson and many more. Plus you’ll get a Discord chat, exclusive beta, route info, and more. Check it out here:  https://www.patreon.com/FirstAscentPodcast

Do you have a listener question or a topic idea? Let us know at @firstascentpod on Instagram! Jay can be found at @jayknower. 

Disclaimer: 

The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

Ice climbing extraordinaire JC Dubeau joins me in the studio today for a fantastic conversation about his incredible career in ice climbing. He’ll share his thoughts on the mindset and training necessary for ice climbing, how he navigates danger when soloing, how ice climbing differs by region, his gear opinions, and the ways in which ice climbing has affected his rock climbing. 

JC is a guest guide at this year’s Mt. Washington Valley Ice Fest Jan 31-Feb 2! Inquire about climbing with him here. 

Follow JC on Instagram here. 

Join us over on the First Ascent Patreon. For $5, $7 or $10 a month, you’ll get access to wide ranging bonus content from greats like Mark Hudon, Scott Stevenson and many more. Plus you’ll get a Discord chat, exclusive beta, route info, and more. Check it out here:  https://www.patreon.com/FirstAscentPodcast

Do you have a listener question or a topic idea? Let us know at @firstascentpod on Instagram! Jay can be found at @jayknower. 

Disclaimer: 

The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

We’ll be taking a break from the podcast for the holidays, but in the meantime, enjoy this special compilation episode celebrating all of the amazing guests who have joined us on First Ascent since the reboot. 

Thank you so much for supporting the show, especially as I’ve navigated a reboot after we all lost Lee. Have a wonderful holiday season, and enjoy this best of episode! 

If you’re in need of more First Ascent throughout the holidays, now is an amazing time to join the First Ascent Patreon! For $5, $7 or $10 a month, you’ll get access to wide ranging bonus content from greats like Mark Hudon, Scott Stevenson and dozens more. Plus you’ll get a Discord chat, exclusive beta, route info, and more. Check it out here:  https://www.patreon.com/FirstAscentPodcast

Do you have a listener question or a topic idea? Let us know at @firstascentpod on Instagram! Jay can be found at @jayknower. 

Disclaimer: 

The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

Devil’s Lake crushers Kenz Hack and Garrett Hopkins join the show today to shine a light on the fantastic climbing community that has popped up at the Lake in recent years. 

You’ll hear about the new zine Dirtbag the Lake, Kenz’s approach to climbing photography, how the current Devil’s Lake climbing community has grown and changed since Jay’s time, plus some awesome climbing tales from Devil’s Lake and beyond. 

Visit www.Kenzhackcreative.com to get your copy of the Dirtbag the Lake zine

Follow Kenz, Garrett and Crimpers of the Purple Wave on Instagram 

Join us over on the First Ascent Patreon. For $5, $7 or $10 a month, you’ll get access to wide ranging bonus content from greats like Mark Hudon, Scott Stevenson and many more. Plus you’ll get a Discord chat, exclusive beta, route info, and more. Check it out here:  https://www.patreon.com/FirstAscentPodcast

Do you have a listener question or a topic idea? Let us know at @firstascentpod on Instagram! Jay can be found at @jayknower. 

Disclaimer: 

The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

If you’re an ice climbing gearhead, then you’ve probably heard about the new picks by Beartooth Alpine Equipment. Cofounder Charlie Faust joins the pod today to tell us all about them. He’ll share how Beartooth Alpine came to be, how their picks differ from other brands on the market, the role gear advancement has played in changing the sport of ice climbing, and his personal pick sharpening tips. 

Plus, we’ll get philosophical in a talk about the light and dark motivations that lead people to climbing. 

Learn more about Beartooth Alpine Equipment here. 

Check out Mark Twight’s book Kiss or Kill. 

Join us over on the First Ascent Patreon. For $5, $7 or $10 a month, you’ll get access to wide ranging bonus content from greats like Mark Hudon, Scott Stevenson and many more. Plus you’ll get a Discord chat, exclusive beta, route info, and more. Check it out here:  https://www.patreon.com/FirstAscentPodcast

Do you have a listener question or a topic idea? Let us know at @firstascentpod on Instagram! Jay can be found at @jayknower. 

Disclaimer: 

The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

James Schroeder (aka Fudd) is back on the pod today to talk about his recent health journey with a severe heart arrhythmia. He’ll share how the health issue came to light, the surgical processes he went through to correct the issue, what the recovery process has been like for him, and how it has changed his perspective on life, fitness, and climbing. 

Plus, Fudd and Jay reminisce about an epic ice climb, and the unforgettable rock prank Fudd played on Jay.  

Join us over on the First Ascent Patreon. For $5, $7 or $10 a month, you’ll get access to wide ranging bonus content from greats like Mark Hudon, Scott Stevenson and many more. Plus you’ll get a Discord chat, exclusive beta, route info, and more. Check it out here:  https://www.patreon.com/FirstAscentPodcast

Do you have a listener question or a topic idea? Let us know at @firstascentpod on Instagram! Jay can be found at @jayknower. 

Disclaimer: 

The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.