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Some people measure the passing of time by the weather. Some people measure it by holidays. Good Food measures it in tortillas. Every year, for the last five years, host Evan Kleiman helps Gustavo Arellano judge KCRW's Tortilla Tournament. Every year, it has gotten bigger and more competitive. Every year, listeners learn a little more about the subtleties of texture, flavor, density, and consistency. But in half a decade, one thing has remained the same — at the heart of any truly great tortilla or pupusa or tamal, you'll find one ingredient — masa.
Wine critic Esther Mobley looks back at the legacy of Fred Franzia, who championed inexpensive wine and brought Two Buck Chuck to the masses. Chef Vishwesh Bhatt reflects on his childhood in India and how his cooking took shape in the American South. Dr. Nancy Rawson provides an update on her research on the loss of smell and taste as a symptom of COVID. As a child, Grace Young stood in line to meet Julia Child. Now she’s being honored with an award named after her culinary icon. Political reporter Ximena Bustillo explains the agenda of the White House Food Conference. Chef Spencer Bezaire is roasting squash in a 600-degree oven at his Silver Lake restaurant Eszett.
Rare apple hunter Tom Brown, who's been crisscrossing his native North Carolina and beyond, is on a mission to find and save America's rare apples. Co-owners Chelsey Rosetter and Benny Farber are the duo behind Benny Boy Brewing, where they go beyond beer and are fermenting Basque-style and other fruited ciders. Emily Eversman of Proof Bakery has started research and development for fall recipes using apples from the farmer’s market. Gustavo Arellano gears up for the fifth consecutive Great Tortilla Tournament, breaking down brackets and the faceoff between corn and flour. Carrying on a legacy, Alexis Navarette recalls working on the weekends as a kid and connecting with the culture of his parents’ South LA restaurant. Deatra Cohen and Adam Siegel penned a definitive guide to the medicinal plant knowledge of Ashkenazi herbal healers, from the Middle Ages to the 20th century.
With her cookbook “Essentials of Classic Italian Cooking,” Marcella Hazan introduced a legion of Americans to a new cuisine — changing the way many cook and eat. Kimjang is a celebration in Korea. Eric Kim describes the days-long process of making kimchi that has been recognized by UNESCO as an intangible cultural heritage that needs to be preserved. Russian native Vlasta Pilot takes to TikTok, sharing her pickle fetish with the masses. LA Times restaurant critic Bill Addison refers to David Rosoff as the “fun, opinionated wine guru” of Los Angeles, who has taken over a block of Silver Lake. Chef Brian Dunsmoor shops for ingredients for his albacore crudo — a dish that is emerging as his restaurant’s signature dish.
Cookbook author Melissa Clark reaches for a single pot or pan to create entire meals in one fell swoop. When Bobby Green heard there might be a chance to revive the popular Tail O’ the Pup hot dog stand, famous because it was an 18-foot-shack shaped like a giant hot dog, he bit into the opportunity. After hitting pause for two years, Sonia Hong and Lawrence Long team up to reopen Irv’s Burgers in West Hollywood with the same doodles on plates and a simplified menu. At the Santa Monica Farmer’s Market, Phoenix-bred chef Chris Bianco revels in Southern California produce.
Food & Wine Best New Chef Ji Hye Kim puts a Midwestern spin on classic Korean dishes to celebrate the harvest festival known as Chuseok. Journalist Ruth Conniff describes the complicated relationship between midwestern dairy farm owners and the undocumented immigrants who keep them running. Banana diversity in India makes the fruit ubiquitous and vital to the country’s culture. Anthropologist Deepa Reddy explains. Attorney generals in Republican states have filed a lawsuit against the USDA and its non-discrimination policies which may leave some students with empty lunch trays. Chef Reem Assil went from advocating for social justice rights to finding a community through bread. In the midst of a heatwave, chef Shiho Yoshikawa shops for black mission figs for ice cream.
Boiling and blending, filmmaker Peter Strickland likens creating music in a band to layering ingredients in a recipe. His satirical horror film is “Flux Gourmet.” Zimbabwean winemaker Tinashe Nyamoduka strives to demystify the vine and promote inclusivity. Documentary producer-director Lori Miller followed natural winemakers during California’s devastating wildfires who are still working to maintain the ancient beverage’s integrity. Curious to know if her highly-frequented restaurant survived the pandemic, animator Elizabeth Ito found the subject of her new film. Actor Jeremy Allen White describes his role as Carmen “Carmy” Berzatto, a chef with struggles both in and out of the kitchen, in the wildly popular series “The Bear.” Obligation, responsibility, and respect are factors in the fight to reclaim white sage in Rose Ramirez and Deborah Small’s new documentary.
Indian chef and author Maunika Gowardhan celebrates thali — a complete meal served on one plate that offers six taste sensations. Anthropologist Deepa S. Reddy takes a deep look at the Indian soup rasam and its cultural-socio meanings. Craig Fear pays homage to the seafood of New England with chowders, bisques, boils, and stews. Natural wine enthusiast Alice Feiring chronicles the vintages that chronicle her life in a new memoir. From casual Taco Tuesdays to an omakase experience that's booked through September, Anajak Thai is named Restaurant of the Year by LA Times restaurant critic Bill Addison. Chinese eggplant and dates have their day in the sun at the farmers market.
Bugra Arkin runs Dolan's, one of only a handful of Uyghur restaurants in the United States. He had an unlikely, and not entirely happy, path to becoming a restaurateur. Coinneach MacLeod spent much of his time during the pandemic baking. Then, he became a TikTok star. Professors Emily Contois and Zenia Kish analyze Instagram’s influence on how we eat, what we eat, and even how restaurants design and create their menus. Nancy Matsumoto and Michael Tremblay visited 35 artisanal sake breweries while researching the fermented rice beverage. Kato bar manager Austin Hennelly crafted a one-of-a-kind non-alcoholic beverage pairing. Ripe, summer tomatoes hit the farmer’s market.
Geologist David R. Montgomery and biologist Anne Biklé explore the relationship between soil health and human health. Senegalese chef Pierre Thiam works to make fonio a global grain while keeping its production in Africa. Chef Bonnie Frumkin Morales explains the simplicity of making kvas at home and why more people don’t know about the beverage. LA Times restaurant critic Bill Addison feasts on Colombian fare at Selva in Long Beach. Yolanda Evans likens rum houses in Barbados to British pubs with a sense of community and conviviality.
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Evan Kleiman is your guide to the best cooking and eating
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