Big news in denim: Artistic Milliners of Karachi has taken a majority stake in Cone Denim, one of America’s most storied mills. From its 1891 roots in Greensboro, NC, to powering Levi’s 501s, Cone’s history now collides with one of the most ambitious players in the industry.

Andrew breaks down what this deal means for global supply chains and why, even together, Artistic and Cone make up just one percent of denim worldwide. Is this the start of a new model, or just another big gamble?

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This week on Jeansland, Andrew sits down with Indian journalist Subir Ghosh for a clear-eyed look at how sustainability narratives often miss the mark. Subir challenges the fashion industry’s fixation on circularity, calling it more of a marketing loop than a real solution. He explains why cotton farmers in India remain under immense pressure, why worker struggles beyond the sewing floor go largely unnoticed, and how global fashion summits recycle the same conversations without meaningful results.

From the realities of farmer suicides to the limitations of regenerative cotton, this conversation underscores the disconnect between polished industry rhetoric and the lives of people who grow, spin, and dye the fibers we rely on.

For deeper reporting on these issues, visit texfash.com, where Subir is co-founder and Executive Editor, and subirghosh.in.

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Andrew rewinds to 1980 in this solo short. Cotton has been priced at 80-cents a pound ever since, while everything else (burgers, beef, coffee, gas) keeps inflating honestly. Farmers work harder for the same pay, garment workers get pushed offshore to 60-cent wages, and polyester quietly takes over as “oil in disguise.”

Jeans don’t get cheaper because of efficiency. They get cheaper because the system is stacked against the farmer, the worker, and the planet.

Listen to this episode short and find out the real cost of cheap jeans.

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This week, Andrew digs into the future of fiber with Mark D’Sa, Senior VP at Panda Biotech. After decades sourcing for brands like Ralph Lauren, Gap, and Levi’s, Mark is now betting on U.S.-grown industrial hemp.

He explains why hemp matters for American farmers facing water shortages and soil stress, how Panda’s cottonization process makes hemp soft and fully compatible with cotton, and why the sweet spot for denim blends is around 20–30 percent hemp. Mark also shares how Wrangler, Lee, and Patagonia are already on board, and why traceability and farmer partnerships are at the core of this effort.

From soil regeneration to hempcrete houses and even auto parts, this episode shows just how versatile hemp can be—and why it could play a major role in denim’s next chapter.

For more information, you can reach Mark D’Sa at [email protected]

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In this solo short, Andrew swerves away from denim to call out one of the most stubborn materials on earth: Styrofoam. After a hospital stay in Houston where every meal arrived on trays of squeaky white foam, he asks why a substance banned in 62 countries is still so common in the United States.

Cotton biodegrades. Polyester eventually breaks down. Styrofoam never dies. It just crumbles into microplastics that sit in our landfills and oceans for centuries. From takeout boxes to hospital cafeterias to coffee cups, it’s everywhere—and the U.S. is falling behind when so many alternatives exist.

This episode is part rant, part reality check, and a reminder that the things we throw away don’t always go away.

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Heddels began as Rawr Denim, a blog for selvedge lovers, and has grown into one of the strongest independent voices in slow fashion. Andrew talks with founders Nick Coe and David Shuck about their philosophy of buying less, buying better, and why keeping what you already own is often the most sustainable choice.

Nick shares how a pair of APC jeans started his obsession with raw denim and eventually led to building Heddels. David recalls a trip to Tokyo that opened his eyes to Japanese selvedge and set him on the path to join as partner and writer. Together, they explain how the site evolved from focusing on denim to covering anything that wears in, not out—like leather boots, canvas bags, and even cast iron pans.

The conversation covers ethical sourcing, what it means to make well-made goods, and how Heddels has built a diverse, loyal audience without clickbait or outside investors.

This episode is for anyone who cares about quality, sustainability, and resisting the disposable side of consumer culture. 

Learn more at heddels.com

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Behind the Transformers Foundation Water Report

This bonus short features Andrew getting straight to the point. At Kingpins, he often hears mills talk about how they save water in their indigo dyeing process. They explain their methods, but sometimes the explanations are too technical for the audience or simply taken at face value without real verification. Over time, Andrew and his late colleague Miguel Sanchez felt the need for facts that could be compared and trusted.

That is where the new Transformers Foundation report, A Reference for Water Consumption During Indigo Dyeing, comes in. Released in July, the study compares rope dyeing and slasher dyeing, the two most common methods for dyeing indigo yarn. Participants included Morrison, often called the king of rope-dyeing machinery, Karl Mayer, known for being progressive and modern, and seven mills from around the world.

The report is a tool for anyone who wants to check claims against real data. If you want to read it yourself, you can find it here: Transformers Foundation: Indigo Report 2025.

For anyone who cares about denim, sustainability, and knowing the difference between facts and rhetoric, this short episode offers a clear look at the truth about water use in dyeing.

Episode Photo Credit: KARL MAYER for G.D.

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Episode 28: Retail, Reality, and the Tariff Storm with Mark A. Cohen

Mark A. Cohen didn’t plan on going into retail. He was an engineer by training who took a department store job to cover rent. What happened next was a decades-long ride to the top, including stints at Sears, Lazarus, and Mervyn’s, and nearly 20 years teaching at Columbia Business School. These days, he’s the guy business networks call when they want the real story behind the numbers.

In this episode, Andrew talks with Mark about what separates the great retailers from the rest. They dig into contract failures, the real impact of tariffs, and why certain companies thrive while others stall out. Along the way, they rate the biggest names in the business and unpack why Costco might be the best retailer in the world.

Mark is sharp, honest, and doesn’t hold back. Whether you’re deep in the supply chain or just want to understand what’s coming next, this one’s worth a listen.

Guest: Mark A. Cohen, former CEO of Sears Canada and longtime Director of Retail Studies at Columbia Business School

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Trade shows are usually about deals and discovery. But at this July’s Kingpins in New York, the most important moments came from the conversations happening off the show floor. In this solo episode, Andrew Olah shares what he saw, what he heard, and what’s on his mind. The turnout was strong, the food was excellent (people notice!), and the hospitality made a difference. Still, there was an undercurrent of unease about what comes next.

At the heart of it all is one thing: uncertainty. With shifting tariff threats and delayed decisions, many in the denim world are stuck in a holding pattern. In this update, Andrew breaks down what that means for mills, brands, and workers. He also shares a broader view of the trends he’s watching, with a focus on staying informed, staying sharp, and finding ways to move forward even in a stalled moment.

This isn’t a forecast. It’s a clear-eyed look at where things stand right now. Andrew connects the dots between trade policy and the very real pressure that mills, factories, and denim businesses are feeling around the world.

For more info on Kingpins Show visit: https://kingpinsshow.com/
Episode Thumbnail Photo Credit: Photos taken at Basketball City by Milliron Studios

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What happens when two street market dealers turn a love of vintage into one of the most respected fashion archives in the world?

In this episode, Andrew Olah sits down with Doug Gunn and Roy Luckett, the co-founders of The Vintage Showroom, a London-based archive and consultancy that has quietly shaped the way global fashion houses think, shop, and design. From rainy mornings at Portobello Market to curating workwear exhibitions in Hong Kong, Doug and Roy share how they built a private, by-appointment showroom filled with rare military, utility, and denim pieces, each one steeped in story and intent.

This is not just a conversation about vintage. It is about how good taste, long-term trust, and the thrill of the find still matter in an industry that often forgets its roots. Whether they are sourcing for a fashion house or welcoming students into their four-floor archive, Doug and Roy prove that inspiration is best delivered in person, and that legacy is something you build one garment at a time.

Guests: Doug Gunn & Roy Luckett, co-founders of The Vintage Showroom.

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