Heddels began as Rawr Denim, a blog for selvedge lovers, and has grown into one of the strongest independent voices in slow fashion. Andrew talks with founders Nick Coe and David Shuck about their philosophy of buying less, buying better, and why keeping what you already own is often the most sustainable choice.

Nick shares how a pair of APC jeans started his obsession with raw denim and eventually led to building Heddels. David recalls a trip to Tokyo that opened his eyes to Japanese selvedge and set him on the path to join as partner and writer. Together, they explain how the site evolved from focusing on denim to covering anything that wears in, not out—like leather boots, canvas bags, and even cast iron pans.

The conversation covers ethical sourcing, what it means to make well-made goods, and how Heddels has built a diverse, loyal audience without clickbait or outside investors.

This episode is for anyone who cares about quality, sustainability, and resisting the disposable side of consumer culture. 

Learn more at heddels.com

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Behind the Transformers Foundation Water Report

This bonus short features Andrew getting straight to the point. At Kingpins, he often hears mills talk about how they save water in their indigo dyeing process. They explain their methods, but sometimes the explanations are too technical for the audience or simply taken at face value without real verification. Over time, Andrew and his late colleague Miguel Sanchez felt the need for facts that could be compared and trusted.

That is where the new Transformers Foundation report, A Reference for Water Consumption During Indigo Dyeing, comes in. Released in July, the study compares rope dyeing and slasher dyeing, the two most common methods for dyeing indigo yarn. Participants included Morrison, often called the king of rope-dyeing machinery, Karl Mayer, known for being progressive and modern, and seven mills from around the world.

The report is a tool for anyone who wants to check claims against real data. If you want to read it yourself, you can find it here: Transformers Foundation: Indigo Report 2025.

For anyone who cares about denim, sustainability, and knowing the difference between facts and rhetoric, this short episode offers a clear look at the truth about water use in dyeing.

Episode Photo Credit: KARL MAYER for G.D.

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Episode 28: Retail, Reality, and the Tariff Storm with Mark A. Cohen

Mark A. Cohen didn’t plan on going into retail. He was an engineer by training who took a department store job to cover rent. What happened next was a decades-long ride to the top, including stints at Sears, Lazarus, and Mervyn’s, and nearly 20 years teaching at Columbia Business School. These days, he’s the guy business networks call when they want the real story behind the numbers.

In this episode, Andrew talks with Mark about what separates the great retailers from the rest. They dig into contract failures, the real impact of tariffs, and why certain companies thrive while others stall out. Along the way, they rate the biggest names in the business and unpack why Costco might be the best retailer in the world.

Mark is sharp, honest, and doesn’t hold back. Whether you’re deep in the supply chain or just want to understand what’s coming next, this one’s worth a listen.

Guest: Mark A. Cohen, former CEO of Sears Canada and longtime Director of Retail Studies at Columbia Business School

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Trade shows are usually about deals and discovery. But at this July’s Kingpins in New York, the most important moments came from the conversations happening off the show floor. In this solo episode, Andrew Olah shares what he saw, what he heard, and what’s on his mind. The turnout was strong, the food was excellent (people notice!), and the hospitality made a difference. Still, there was an undercurrent of unease about what comes next.

At the heart of it all is one thing: uncertainty. With shifting tariff threats and delayed decisions, many in the denim world are stuck in a holding pattern. In this update, Andrew breaks down what that means for mills, brands, and workers. He also shares a broader view of the trends he’s watching, with a focus on staying informed, staying sharp, and finding ways to move forward even in a stalled moment.

This isn’t a forecast. It’s a clear-eyed look at where things stand right now. Andrew connects the dots between trade policy and the very real pressure that mills, factories, and denim businesses are feeling around the world.

For more info on Kingpins Show visit: https://kingpinsshow.com/
Episode Thumbnail Photo Credit: Photos taken at Basketball City by Milliron Studios

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What happens when two street market dealers turn a love of vintage into one of the most respected fashion archives in the world?

In this episode, Andrew Olah sits down with Doug Gunn and Roy Luckett, the co-founders of The Vintage Showroom, a London-based archive and consultancy that has quietly shaped the way global fashion houses think, shop, and design. From rainy mornings at Portobello Market to curating workwear exhibitions in Hong Kong, Doug and Roy share how they built a private, by-appointment showroom filled with rare military, utility, and denim pieces, each one steeped in story and intent.

This is not just a conversation about vintage. It is about how good taste, long-term trust, and the thrill of the find still matter in an industry that often forgets its roots. Whether they are sourcing for a fashion house or welcoming students into their four-floor archive, Doug and Roy prove that inspiration is best delivered in person, and that legacy is something you build one garment at a time.

Guests: Doug Gunn & Roy Luckett, co-founders of The Vintage Showroom.

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What happens when the system collapses, and you decide to build something meaningful with your hands? 

In this episode of Jeansland, Andrew sits down with Pete Roberts, founder of Origin, the American brand making jeans, boots, and apparel entirely on U.S. soil. After the 2008 recession upended his life and wiped out his business, Pete was left with a timber-frame cabin in the woods of Maine, two young kids, and no clear way forward. So he and a group of friends and family cut down Eastern white pines from the surrounding woods and hand-built a sturdy wooden workshop—barn-sized and framed with massive 10x10 timbers—where they powered up a generator, scavenged old sewing machines, and stitched a new future—one garment at a time.

But this isn’t a story about recovery. It’s about direction. From a redesigned jiu-jitsu gi to a full-scale denim operation, Pete has spent the last 15 years reclaiming the machines, knowledge, and spirit of domestic manufacturing—while shaping a 100-year plan to build something lasting, local, and real.

If you’ve ever wondered what it means to start over on purpose, and do it all by hand, this one’s for you.

Guest: Pete Roberts, founder of Origin USA

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In this powerful two-part conversation, Andrew Olah welcomes back Umer Farooq Qureshi for a deep dive into the structural imbalances plaguing the denim supply chain. Framed by the enduring legacy of colonial capitalism, the discussion explores how suppliers have been conditioned to act like beggars in pursuit of orders — and how that mindset must shift. Together, they challenge conventional wisdom on pricing, power, partnerships, and trade shows, while calling for a new era of unity, dignity, and bold reinvention.

Did you know that both Berkshire Hathaway and Samsung started in textiles and went on to reinvent themselves entirely? So what’s stopping today’s denim suppliers from doing the same? Why should mills settle for scraps when companies like Loro Piana and Zegna showed how textile makers can build global luxury brands?

This is a rare, brutally honest conversation about uncomfortable truths and how facing them might just be the first step toward a better future for the industry.

Connect with Umer Farooq Qureshi

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In this powerful two-part conversation, Andrew Olah welcomes back Umer Farooq Qureshi for a deep dive into the structural imbalances plaguing the denim supply chain. Framed by the enduring legacy of colonial capitalism, the discussion explores how suppliers have been conditioned to act like beggars in pursuit of orders — and how that mindset must shift. Together, they challenge conventional wisdom on pricing, power, partnerships, and trade shows, while calling for a new era of unity, dignity, and bold reinvention.

Did you know that both Berkshire Hathaway and Samsung started in textiles and went on to reinvent themselves entirely? So what’s stopping today’s denim suppliers from doing the same? Why should mills settle for scraps when companies like Loro Piana and Zegna showed how textile makers can build global luxury brands?

This is a rare, brutally honest conversation about uncomfortable truths and how facing them might just be the first step toward a better future for the industry.

Connect with Umer Farooq Qureshi

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What if sustainability wasn’t a competitive edge — but the baseline for the entire denim industry? Andrew sits down with sustainability expert Roian Atwood to unpack the urgent challenges and overlooked opportunities shaping denim’s future.

Roian is a seasoned business leader and sustainability practitioner who’s spent over two decades improving the social and environmental performance of products and supply chains. A former global sustainability director for Wrangler and Lee Jeans, he now consults on decarbonization, manufacturing optimization, and conservation biology across the globe.

Together, Andrew and Roian dive deep into how the industry can break down silos, democratize innovation, and replace marketing buzzwords with real progress. Roian shares why collective problem-solving, supply chain accountability, and transparency are critical, and how working together could unlock better outcomes for both the planet and the people making our jeans.

Tune in to hear why the “magic wand” isn’t a fairy tale fix, but a powerful way to reframe sustainability as a shared mission.

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Designer and brand consultant Johnny Diamandis joins Andrew Olah to explore what it truly takes to build a fashion brand today. With a globally successful track record designing menswear, accessories, and more for brands like Evisu, Burberry London, Nike, Fake London, and CAT Footwear, Johnny shares candid insights from both industry and academia. The conversation covers the financial realities of launching a brand, storytelling, design leadership, innovation, and what makes a product stand out—plus thoughtful advice for students and emerging designers. His teaching work includes institutions such as the Royal College of Art London, Parsons New York, and currently, the School of the Art Institute of Chicago.

Connect with Johnny Diamandis:
LinkedIn | Website

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