The Duffel Shuffle Podcast

With the 2026 Everest season now firmly underway and the icefall finally open, Sam and Adrian are back for their second installment of armchair mountaineering coverage. 

Sam opens with a somber news section, paying tribute to two losses that hit close to home in the outdoor community: Bernie Rosow of Mammoth and Will Stanhope of BC, killed in separate incidents within days of each other. Adrian knew both casually, and reflects on what made each of them so magnetic — Bernie grinding away as a snow cat driver while somehow getting out more than anyone on the east side of the Sierra, and Will quietly pushing the cutting edge of hard trad lines in Squamish and around the world for decades. Adrian also brings a lighter story out of the Himalaya: a Russian and Ukrainian climber who headed to Manaslu in the spring off-season, found the mountain entirely to themselves, and hung it way out there in proper old-school style — a good reminder that the vast majority of the world's mountains can still deliver wild experiences. 

From there, Sam and Adrian dig into the following topics from the 2026 Everest season:

- The Icefall Opens: The threatening serac that delayed the season has partially fallen, a route has been threaded, and teams are moving — but the season is now running in the most compressed window of the modern era, with record permit numbers and a shortened timeline creating real human factors pressure.

- Drones on Everest: Last season's successful drone trials have hit a regulatory pause, and Adrian unpacks why that's both completely predictable and genuinely frustrating — and why getting drones properly established on the mountain may be the single most important step toward making the south side safe enough for Alpenglow to return.

- Topo's First Impressions and Season Conditions: Alpenglow guide Topo Mena has made his first carry to Camp Two on the south side with early reports positive. Adrian also notes the mountain is running unusually dry this season, which exposes hard ice on the Lhotse Face and adds challenge for everyone — including speed climbers Tyler Andrews and Karl Egloff, who are on the mountain chasing records.

- Listener Question — Does the Round Trip Count?: A listener asks the guys to weigh in on whether a summit counts if you don't make it back under your own power. Sam and Adrian don't hold back.

Follow our podcast on Instagram @duffelshufflepodcast where you can learn more about us and our guests. Visit our website at www.duffelshufflepodcast.com and join our mailing list. The Duffel Shuffle Podcast is supported by Alpenglow Expeditions, an internationally renowned mountain guide service based in Lake Tahoe, California. Visit www.alpenglowexpeditions.com or follow @alpenglowexpeditions on Instagram to learn more.

With the 2026 Everest season officially underway, Sam and Adrian kick off what will be four consecutive episodes of armchair mountaineering — a first for Adrian, who for most of the last two decades has been on the mountain rather than watching from home. It's a unique vantage point, and one he's leaning into fully.

Before diving into Everest, the guys pay tribute to Jim Whittaker, the first American to summit Everest in 1963, whose passing was announced recently at the age of 97. Adrian reflects on Whittaker's outsized influence on American mountain guiding culture — from his early days at REI to his brother Lou's founding of RMI, the institution that shaped a generation of guides and guide companies across the country. Sam also circles back on a story that slipped through the cracks last episode: Cody Townsend and Tommy Caldwell's first ski-climb winter traverse of Norman's 13 in the Eastern Sierra — an eight-day, 40,000-foot suffer fest that Adrian and Sam dig into with obvious admiration.

From there, Sam and Adrian cover the following topics from the opening weeks of the 2026 Everest season:

• Early Summits on Annapurna, Dhaulagiri, and Makalu: What's driving the trend of climbers targeting multiple 8,000-meter peaks in a single season, and what the logistical and safety implications of that strategy actually look like on the ground.
• Khumbu Icefall Delays: A threatening serac has delayed route fixing through the icefall, pushing the season's timeline later than ideal. Adrian provides important context on where the serac likely is, why the media narrative may be off, and what the icefall doctors' cautious approach actually signals.
• Topo Mena on the South Side: Alpenglow guide Topo Mena is heading to Everest's south side with a small, fast team through Pemba Gelje's Expeditions High Mountain — and Adrian explains why this trip is as much an information-gathering mission for Alpenglow's future south side decision-making as it is a personal guiding trip for Topo and Carla. 
• Ryan Mitchell and the Oxygen Debate: A Minecraft-turned-mountaineer's medical emergency at base camp sparks a broader conversation about what it actually means to climb Everest without supplemental oxygen, where the line is, and how oxygen compares to other forms of aid on the mountain.

Follow our podcast on Instagram @duffelshufflepodcast where you can learn more about us and our guests. Visit our website at www.duffelshufflepodcast.com and join our mailing list. The Duffel Shuffle Podcast is supported by Alpenglow Expeditions, an internationally renowned mountain guide service based in Lake Tahoe, California. Visit www.alpenglowexpeditions.com or follow @alpenglowexpeditions on Instagram to learn more.

With a string of high-profile guiding accidents making headlines this winter — including close to home here in Tahoe — Sam and Adrian sit down to dig into what it actually means to be a mountain guide, how guide companies are held accountable, and what you, as a consumer, should be looking for before you hire someone to take you into the mountains.

Before diving in, Adrian shares a personal update: a fractured back sustained in a sport climbing fall at Starwall that has him sidelined for the spring. Ever the risk management thinker, he unpacks the decision-making lapse that led to the accident and what the takeaway actually is. Sam, freshly back from a family ski trip to Davos, also weighs in on a developing fraud story out of Nepal in which rescue companies are alleged to have poisoned clients with baking soda to trigger fraudulent helicopter rescues — and why the distinction between mountain guides and high-altitude workers matters enormously in that conversation.

From there, Sam and Adrian turn to the main event: a wide-ranging conversation on guiding, certification, and accreditation.

• What Is a Mountain Guide?: Why the term is so contested in the US versus Europe, and why the semantics actually matter for clients trying to evaluate who they're hiring.
• Certification: How the AMGA certification and scope of practice system works, where Sam sits in that process, and why the gold standard is both certification and experience — not one without the other.
• Accreditation: What AMGA accreditation means for guide companies, why only 32 businesses in the US have achieved it, and why Adrian believes it should become the industry standard — not the exception.
• The Client's Role: Why the best guided experiences are partnerships, and why showing up as an active participant — not just a passenger — matters regardless of how qualified your guide is.

Follow our podcast on Instagram @duffelshufflepodcast where you can learn more about us and our guests. Visit our website at www.duffelshufflepodcast.com and join our mailing list. The Duffel Shuffle Podcast is supported by Alpenglow Expeditions, an internationally renowned mountain guide service based in Lake Tahoe, California. Visit www.alpenglowexpeditions.com or follow @alpenglowexpeditions on Instagram to learn more.

With the 2026 Everest season just around the corner, Sam and Adrian sit down to preview what's shaping up to be one of the most consequential years in the mountain's modern climbing history.

While Alpenglow Expeditions has made the decision not to pivot their north side operation to the south side following the closure of the Tibetan route, Adrian's deep familiarity with both sides of the mountain gives him a uniquely informed perspective on what the season ahead holds. Between insider knowledge from the guiding community and the ever-reliable Sherpa grapevine, Adrian and Sam have plenty to say that hasn't yet made it into the mainstream conversation.

Sam and Adrian talk about the following storylines heading into the 2026 Everest Season:

• North Side Closure: The Tibet side of Everest has been closed to international teams this season, sending a wave of expeditions scrambling to pivot to the Nepal side — and setting up what could be the busiest south side season in history.
• Alpenglow's Decision: After a 90-minute internal meeting, Alpenglow chose not to redirect their north side operation southward, citing concerns about Khumbu Icefall dangers and the growing number of inexperienced climbers and operators on the south side route.
• Notable Expeditions: FKT attempts, no-oxygen ascents, and sea-to-summit adventures are among the compelling storylines worth watching as the season gets underway.
• Guiding & Regulation: Adrian and Sam make the case that the industry's focus on client experience requirements misses the bigger issue — the need for stronger regulation of guide companies themselves.
• The Everest Experience: Whatever your style or approach, the guys take a moment to reflect on what makes climbing the world's highest mountain so enduringly extraordinary.

Follow our podcast on Instagram @duffelshufflepodcast where you can learn more about us and our guests. Visit our website at www.duffelshufflepodcast.com and join our mailing list. The Duffel Shuffle Podcast is supported by Alpenglow Expeditions, an internationally renowned mountain guide service based in Lake Tahoe, California. Visit www.alpenglowexpeditions.com or follow @alpenglowexpeditions on Instagram to learn more.

Emily Harrington is a professional rock climber, alpinist, and adventurer known for pushing the boundaries of what's possible in the vertical world. A five-time American sport climbing champion and member of The North Face athlete team, Emily has established herself as one of the most accomplished and versatile climbers of her generation, with landmark ascents on big walls and high-altitude peaks around the world.

For Emily, climbing is as much about the journey and the people as it is about the summit. Whether projecting the hardest multi-pitch routes in Mexico or commentating a live Netflix broadcast of Alex Honnold free soloing Taipei 101, she brings the same curiosity, grit, and openness to every experience.

- Emily recently served as a commentator for Netflix's "Skyscraper Live", in which Alex Honnold free soloed Taipei 101. The experience offered a behind-the-scenes look at the complexity of live television production — coordinating hundreds of crew members while capturing one of climbing's most audacious feats in real time.

- On a recent trip to Mexico, Emily attempted "La Sombra del Chamán," widely considered the hardest multi-pitch route in the country. The climb tested her relationship with fear and exposure on big walls and led to a deeply personal decision to step back from her own send attempt to support her climbing partner, Matt Segal.

- After a busy stretch of travel and high-output experiences, Emily reflects honestly on nervous system overload and the quiet loss of motivation that can follow — and what it looks like to reset, recalibrate, and find joy in climbing again, as she's currently doing on a low-key rock climbing trip in Italy with minimal gear and zero performance pressure.

To learn more about Emily Harrington, follow her on Instagram @emilyaharrington. Her new documentary Girl Climber follows her career-defining attempt to free climb El Capitan in under 24 hours — becoming the first woman to free climb the 36-pitch Golden Gate route in a day, a feat previously accomplished only by male climbers like Alex Honnold and Tommy Caldwell. Watch Girl Climber now on Prime Video or stream it at jolt.film/watch/girlclimber.

Follow our podcast on Instagram @duffelshufflepodcast where you can learn more about us and our guests. Visit our website at www.duffelshufflepodcast.com and join our mailing list. The Duffel Shuffle Podcast is supported by Alpenglow Expeditions, an internationally renowned mountain guide service based in Lake Tahoe, California. Visit www.alpenglowexpeditions.com or follow @alpenglowexpeditions on Instagram to learn more.

David Goettler has been a professional alpinist for nearly 3 decades, and part of The North Face athlete team his entire career. With a focus on classical alpine style climbing on the highest peaks of the world, David has set out on a quest to climb in the way that suits him. 

For David, climbing the tallest peaks of the world is a dream, and the challenge is in their height. Climbing without supplemental oxygen and Sherpa support above basecamp is the only way for him to truly test his abilities. 

- David has successfully summited seven 8,000m peaks without supplemental oxygen, many of which required multiple attempts. On his fifth attempt of Nanga Parbat in Pakistan in 2025, David summited via the Schell Route and descended by Paraglider from 7,700m on the mountain. 

- David has gone on expeditions with countless partners, and the list includes some of the most notable alpinists in the last 3 decades. For David, finding the right partners for his objectives is almost as calculated as the climb itself. 

- While David believes that all professional alpinists should be climbing without supplemental oxygen and sherpa support, he recognizes that for non-professionals, just being in the mountains is what's important, and style should be chosen based on what each individual is seeking. 

To learn more about David Goettler, follow him on Instagram @david_goettler.

Follow our podcast on Instagram @duffelshufflepodcast where you can learn more about us and our guests. Visit our website at www.duffelshufflepodcast.com and join our mailing list. The Duffel Shuffle Podcast is supported by Alpenglow Expeditions, an internationally renowned mountain guide service based in Lake Tahoe, California. Visit www.alpenglowexpeditions.com or follow @alpenglowexpeditions on Instagram to learn more.

Still technically only a "few" weeks late, Sam and Adrian look back on 2025 and forward to 2026. This episode was delayed due to the Seven Summits series, but as we move into the new year, there's lots to talk about, from personal experiences in 2025 and goals for 2026 to the industry as a whole.

- Adrian had a big year, with his 10th summit of Everest and the acquisition of Alpenglow Expeditions by Milky Way Park. Meanwhile, Sam started and finished his year on separate ski trips to Japan, but the highlight of the year was his growing family.

- From expected films to impacts of tariffs, 2026 is sure to bring lots of interesting twists and turns. Andrzej Bargiel and Jim Morrison both broke the ceiling of 8,000m peak ski mountaineering, and expected films are potentially coming in 2026. On the other end of the industry, the ski industry may continue to see the direct effects of tariffs and other economic impacts.

As we look forward to 2026, we want to thank our listeners for their continued support and encourage you to share feedback. Comment or message us what you like and what you don't like. Guest and topic ideas are always welcome!

Follow our podcast on Instagram @duffelshufflepodcast, where you can learn more about our guests and us. Visit our website at www.duffelshufflepodcast.com and join our mailing list. The Duffel Shuffle Podcast is supported by Alpenglow Expeditions, an internationally renowned mountain guide service based in Lake Tahoe, California. Visit www.alpenglowexpeditions.com or follow @alpenglowexpeditions on Instagram to learn more.

Sam and Adrian wrap up the Seven Summits Series with none other than Mt. Everest. At 29,032' above sea level, Mt Everest is much taller than any of the other seven summits, and its history, notoriety and reputation speaks for itself.

While Everest has been well covered on the Duffel Shuffle Podcast, Sam and Adrian endeavor to provide an unbiased look at climbing the mountain, and compare the two regular climbing routes for guided climbers, with as little opinion as possible.

- Different "requirements" for prior experience exist on either side of the mountain, and many operators have their own prerequisites, but in general experience up to 7,000m is important. In theory, this experience and more can be gathered through climbing the other six of the seven summits.

- There are pros and cons to each side of the mountain, but the most important thing when considering an Everest Expedition is understanding what your getting from your operator. Budget and Guiding do not go hand in hand.

- While there are differences between sides in weather, infrastructure, rescue, technicality, access, etc. the each have reasonable pros and cons.

Interested in climbing Mt Everest with Alpenglow Expeditions, visit https://alpenglowexpeditions.com/expedition/mount-everest-north-side-rapid-ascent-expedition to learn more.

Follow our podcast on Instagram @duffelshufflepodcast where you can learn more about our guests and us. Visit our website at www.duffelshufflepodcast.com and join our mailing list. The Duffel Shuffle Podcast is supported by Alpenglow Expeditions, an internationally renowned mountain guide service based in Lake Tahoe, California. Visit www.alpenglowexpeditions.com or follow @alpenglowexpeditions on Instagram to learn more.

The sixth in our series on the Seven Summits, Carstensz Pyramid, is the tallest peak within Oceania. While some Seven Summits lists include Mount Kosciuszko in Australia, most modern lists acknowledge Carstensz Pyramid due to its higher altitude and increased technical challenge. Locally known as Puncak Jaya, the peak sits at 4,884m or 16,024 feet above sea level, on the island of New Guinea.

Unlike all other peaks on the list of seven summits, Carstensz Pyramid is a true rock climb, where climbers ascend a limestone ridgeline with both vertical walls and exposed traverses.

- Much of the climb has been fixed with ropes, including a span that now has a cable bridge, to accommodate the number of climbers looking to climb the mountain and prevent issues of overcrowding.

- Due to its relatively low altitude, as compared to its counterparts, climbing Carstensz is generally quite quick, and much of the true adventure lies in the many-day trek through the jungle to reach the base of the peak.

- Unfortunately, with a long history of unrest in the jungle, it has become standard to heli into basecamp for your climb. With ethnic tribal conflicts and civil disturbances, it's no longer feasible to trek through the jungle.

Follow our podcast on Instagram @duffelshufflepodcast where you can learn more about our guests and us. Visit our website at www.duffelshufflepodcast.com and join our mailing list. The Duffel Shuffle Podcast is supported by Alpenglow Expeditions, an internationally renowned mountain guide service based in Lake Tahoe, California. Visit www.alpenglowexpeditions.com or follow @alpenglowexpeditions on Instagram to learn more.

On Episode 45 of the Duffel Shuffle Podcast, Sam and Adrian head to the bottom of the world to discuss the Vinson Massif. This is the fifth episode in the series covering each of the Seven Summits, and while Vinson lacks some of the culture of previous mountains discussed, it makes up for that in the uniqueness of the adventure.

First climbed in 1966, Vinson is known by Seven Summit climbers as "The Last Great Challenge" as it was the final peak climbed by the first to complete the seven tallest summits on each continent. While not particularly challenging, Vinson is notable for its logistical complexity as well as extreme temperatures.

- Due to its relatively low altitude of 4,892m (16,050'), Vinson expeditions can theoretically be completed in a matter of days. That said, most expeditions last 2-3 weeks to allow for the logistics to fall into place, which can be severely delayed by weather and other factors.

- All Vinson logistics are managed by Antarctic Logistics and Expeditions (ALE), whose strict risk management practices have led to an incredibly high safety and success rate.

- A Vinson expedition requires a high level of mountain independence, primarily to manage the challenges of cold. As such, it's a great peak to follow Everest or Denali, and can also be easily combined with climbing Aconcagua.

Follow our podcast on Instagram @duffelshufflepodcast where you can learn more about our guests and us. Visit our website at www.duffelshufflepodcast.com and join our mailing list. The Duffel Shuffle Podcast is supported by Alpenglow Expeditions, an internationally renowned mountain guide service based in Lake Tahoe, California. Visit www.alpenglowexpeditions.com or follow @alpenglowexpeditions on Instagram to learn more.