Beyond the Garden Basics

In today’s Beyond the Garden Basics Newsletter podcast (above), Debbie Flower and I tackle a question from Liz, who asks: “I just purchased from the local nursery, a lavender plant and also a sage. I'm sorry, I don't know the exact name. But they're common. The plants were in pots. Each plant is about one foot tall. I already planted them in the yard early yesterday morning. They were fine all day yesterday. Everything was moist, the soil was prepped. Today is 100 degree weather. They are not looking like they're happy campers. So I'm wondering about these drought tolerant plants. I don't want to overwater them. Is this wilting natural, or should I be doing something else?”

We have tips for Liz. Tip #1:

Heat Protection for Your Plants

Bursts of triple-digit temperatures are occurring across the United States this summer, lasting anywhere from a couple of days in a row, to weeks on end (hello, Phoenix!). However, even for short periods, the combination of too much bright sun, too much heat and not enough water are enough to vex the garden as well as the most experienced gardeners when they encounter sickly-looking plants this time of year.

First of all, take care of yourself in the heat. Work early in the morning in the sunny areas, work in the shade in late mornings, then wrap things up for the day (if possible). Wear sun protection and take plenty of water breaks.

According to the garden experts at the University of California’s Agriculture and Natural Resources Division, here are four quick and easy ways to help make sure your perennials, shrubs and trees not only survive, but also thrive in the summer heat.

• Add mulch, mulch, and more mulch. When temperatures get extreme, having a good layer of mulch prevents soil from heating up excessively and losing water to evaporation. Apply four inches of a medium shredded bark mulch to insulate the soil. This protects the fine roots that plants use to feed from the surrounding soil. Mulch also helps maintain healthy soil ecology with earthworms and other de-composers that promote nutrients and oxygen in soil. Mulch will pay for itself by maintaining more consistent soil moisture so you can water less and have better success with your plants. Be sure to maintain the depth of your mulch to ensure you can benefit from all the services it provides.

• Don't fertilize permanent plants during hot summer months. When a fertilizer is applied, especially one that is high in nitrogen, a plant is triggered to produce more green growth. An increase in growth means an increase in water and nutrient needs. During hot spells, it is especially hard to keep up with plant water and nutrient needs as soils dry out quickly and water may not be readily available. Save your plants from stress by stopping fertilizer application when triple digit temperatures are forecast. However, warm season annuals should continue to be fertilized.

• Water trees deeply and less frequently. “When watering trees you want to consider the roots below the tree and you want to encourage a network of deep roots. If you are only watering for short periods at a higher frequency, the roots will remain shallow since that is where the tree finds its water supply,” said Janet Hartin, UC ANR environmental horticulture advisor. “Deep roots mean a healthier tree that is less susceptible to disease.”

In general, young plants or new transplants require more water than older, more established plants. Clay soils absorb water slowly so watering can take longer but is typically done less frequently. This is a contrast to sandy soils that moisten and drain quickly. Typically, watering sandy soils is done more frequently.

• Wait to introduce new shrubs or trees until the fall when the weather is cooler. Because root systems on new plants are smaller and need time to develop, these plants require more water, more frequently. New plants introduced into a landscape during hot summer months have a significantly higher rate of failure. On the other hand, plants will take root more easily when air temperatures are in the 70’s, yet soil temperatures are still warm.

Container Plants vs Heat? Smart Pots is a Winner

Another tip (self-serving, but true, based on personal experience): Keep the soil from overheating in container plants located in full sun by growing them in Smart Pots, whose porous, yet sturdy fabric structure allows the soil to remain as much as 30 degrees cooler than plants grown in plastic pots; 10-15 degrees cooler than plants grown in fiber or terracotta pots.

This is why we like say, “Fall is for gardening!”

For more hot weather gardening tips, check out the July 21st edition of this newsletter.

Thank you for also listening to the Garden Basics with Farmer Fred podcast! It’s available wherever you get your podcasts. Please share it with your garden friends.

Fred Hoffman is also a University of California Cooperative Extension Master Gardener in Sacramento County. And he likes to ride his bike(s).

This is a public episode. If you'd like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit gardenbasics.substack.com/subscribe

In today’s newsletter podcast (above), Don Shor of Redwood Barn Nursery in Davis explains why now is the best time to be planting your vegetables for autumn and winter (in milder areas of the country). For those of you who live in the West, the South, parts of the Midwest and mid-Atlantic states, (USDA Zones 7, 8, and 9) we get down to specifics in this audio episode on the best varieties of vegetables to grow during the cooler months of fall and winter:  lettuce, spinach, Swiss chard, cabbage, Chinese cabbage, cilantro, broccoli, cauliflower, beets, snow peas, fava beans, carrots, celery, onions, garlic, parsnips, shallots and turnips.We’ll tell you about some tasty, easy to grow varieties that maybe you’ve never eaten, such as pak choi, black seeded simpson lettuce, Danvers half long carrots, and Romanesco broccoli. What’s that? Give a listen. 

Fall Vegetable Gardening Basics

Do you want your family to eat healthy year-round? The healthiest, freshest foods are the fruits and vegetables you grow yourself. And in many areas of the West and South, the 365-day vegetable garden is easy to achieve. And now, late summer (August and September), is the time to be planting the seeds and transplants for the vegetables your family will enjoy throughout the fall, winter and following spring.

Although we are still in mid-summer, this is the time to start your winter vegetable garden here in Northern California, as well as other mild-winter areas around the state and the nation. Most of this  planting can be done during the milder months of September and October (along with mid-August for some winter crops). For specific crop planting times for the various areas of California, refer to the UC Master Gardening Vegetable Planting webpage.

Designing Your Cool Season Garden Bed

The winter garden bed should have many of the same characteristics as the summer garden: 

a sunny and level location close to the house;

a convenient water source; 

and, soil that drains easily. 

     Because of possible heavy rains in winter, raised beds can solve that drainage problem for homeowners living with clay soil. Mix in other soil amendments, such as compost and manure, to improve crop production in the foggy, wet, cold days that await.

     For foothill gardeners, a raised bed with wooden sides has an added benefit. Those structures can support a hinged, translucent top, such as glass, polyethelene or fiberglass…an instant cold frame to protect winter vegetables from low temperatures or heavy wind and rain.

     Starting vegetables in the heat of the summer, especially from seed, requires a consistently moist seedbed until the plants are up and growing. An automatic garden watering system, such as a battery operated timer that attaches to a faucet, can ease that process.

 Cool Season Vegetable Varieties    

Here are some of the winter vegetable varieties that do well in Northern California, how much room to leave between the plants in each row, and how much to plant for a family of four (with moderate appetites):

Artichokes: A bit of a challenge in the interior valleys. Easy to grow in coastal areas. Plant from roots, not seed. Green Globe; 4 feet apart; 5-10 plants.

Broccoli: Green Goliath, Green Duke, Waltham 29; 10 inches apart; 20 foot row.

Brussels sprouts: Jade Cross Hybrid; 24 inches apart; 20 foot row.

Cabbage: Earliana, Copenhagen Market, Savoy King, Burpee Hybrid; 24 inches apart;15 plants. 

Cauliflower: Snowcrown, Snowball Y, Purple Head; 24 inches apart; 15 plants.

Carrots: Nantes or Danvers half long, Short n' Sweet; 2 inches apart; 25 footrow.

Chinese cabbage: Michili, Pak Choi; 6 inches apart; 10 foot row.

Garlic: California Late, California Early, Elephant Garlic; 6 inches apart; 20 foot row.

Kale: Dwarf Blue Curled Vates, Dwarf Curled Scotch; 10 inches apart; 12 plants.

Kohlrabi: Early White Vienna, Sweet Vienna;  3 inches apart; 10 foot row.

Loose leaf lettuce: Ruby, Bibb, Salad Bowl, Green Ice;  6 inches apart; 15 foot row.

Peas: Mammoth Melting Sugar, Sugar Ann, Sugar Snap. 2 inches apart; 5 foot row.

Onions: Stockton Red, Stockton Yellow, Walla Walla, Texas White; 4 inches apart; 20 foot row.

Radish: Champion, Watermelon, Crimson Giant, Cherry Belle; 5 inches apart; 20 foot row.

Rutabaga: Victoria, Valentine, Strawberry; 3 inches apart; 15 foot row.

Spinach: Melody Hybrid, America, Bloomsdale Long Standing; 6 inches apart; 15 foot row.

Turnips: Purple Top White Globe, Shogoin (greens); 2 inches apart; 10 foot row.

Perennial Vegetables that need a lot of room:

Asparagus: Mary Washington, UC72, UC157, 500w; 12 inches apart; 20 foot row.

Rhubarb: Victoria, German Wine, Crimson Cherry; 2 feet apart ; 20 foot row.

“It’s the Best Garden Event in Northern California!” (I said that)

Harvest Day at the Fair Oaks Horticulture Center

Saturday, August 5, 8am-2pm. Free!

Debbie Flower and I will be talking about “Garden Tips to Save Time, Money and Water” at Harvest Day at 830 am. The Fair Oaks Horticulture Center is located at 11549 Fair Oaks Blvd, in Fair Oaks Park, Sacramento County, California. Hope to see you there! More details here. Presented by the U.C. Master Gardeners of Sacramento County.

Thank you for also listening to the Garden Basics with Farmer Fred podcast! It’s available wherever you get your podcasts. Please share it with your garden friends.

Fred Hoffman is also a University of California Cooperative Extension Master Gardener in Sacramento County. And he likes to ride his bike.

This is a public episode. If you'd like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit gardenbasics.substack.com/subscribe

In today’s newsletter podcast, Debbie Arrington of the publication, “Sacramento Digs Gardening”, discusses why jalapeño pepper as well as other pepper seeds and plants may have been mismarked this year. Read her original story on the topic here.

Did you ever grow a plant that wasn’t what you thought it would be, due to a mismarked tag or a seed packet that was incorrectly packed? It happens every year, with varieties of annual or perennial ornamentals that do not produce the exact color flower that was promised, or a vegetable variety that looks and tastes slightly different. Or, it could be the home gardener who saves seeds and grows them out in the following years. In that case, “home operator error” could be to blame, due to a mixup while sorting personal collections of harvested seeds, or attempting to save certain hybrid seeds that have a high probability of producing something different in the subsequent growing seasons. Or, it could have resulted from a surprise in the mail after placing a seed order, especially in a marketplace such as Amazon, Etsy or another vendor that you know very little about.

A few years ago, I was on the hunt for a particular gaillardia, also known as blanketflower. The particular variety I was searching for was “Arizona Apricot”. This red-yellow colorful perennial (or annual, in colder climates) puts on its best show of daisy-like flowers in the summer.

I finally found a source for this particular seed via Amazon. Imagine my surprise when the seed arrived, in a nondescript small plastic bag, labeled “Gaillardia seed from Qatar.” Qatar? What the heck, let’s try it. When it blossomed the next summer, it was not “Arizona Apricot.” Oh well, an inexpensive mistake on my part, shopping in a lightly regulated, on-line marketplace.

But imagine this scenario playing out on a much larger scale: an American seed distributor who purchases seeds overseas for their clients here, which include home gardeners, wholesale and retail nurseries, as well as farmers growing particular varieties for restaurants and canneries. That is the current situation in the world of Jalapeño peppers - as well as a myriad of other vegetable and ornamental seeds - where seeds grown overseas (in this case, some suspect China) were mixed up before shipment. And it’s only after the plants grown from those seeds started fruiting that the alarm bells went off.

Right now, there appears to be five mislabeled pepper plants - hot as well as sweet - that have ticked off home gardeners in 14 states (or more, by now) and sent larger shockwaves among those in the business of buying, selling and growing those pepper seeds.

John Porter is a University of Nebraska Cooperative Extension Urban Agriculture specialist who wrote about this brouhaha from a Midwest perspective for the Garden Professors website. His research brought out this information:

Getting a sweet banana pepper instead of a Jalapeño ‘Tam’, for the home gardener, is a disappointment. But for the home gardener growing sweet bell peppers, to have a “Purple Beauty” pepper turn out to be a Hungarian Hot Wax pepper could instigate a mad dash to the kitchen for a glass of burn-soothing whole milk (Pro tip: whole milk or ice cream douses the heat after eating a too-hot pepper; drinking water spreads the heat). But, then again, a gardener with any sort of wariness to hot peppers should not be taste-testing an elongated yellow pepper when they were expecting a blocky purple bell pepper.

For your future reference at pepper tasting parties:

It’s a Small World, After All

As you might imagine, American growers are concerned about the future for seed mixups. Was this a one-off event, or will we see more of this in the years ahead? Michael Fiore of Smith’s Gardentown nursery in Wichita Falls, Texas is worried, and has some practical advice: save your own seed.

Seed Security: It’s a Real Problem in China

The Wall Street Journal, in a July 24, 2023 story, brought up an interesting angle to JalapeñoGate, without mentioning it: Corruption in the Chinese Seed Trading Business. The article states:

“(Chinese) Officials say the goal is to stop the proliferation of fake and substandard seeds that could jeopardize food production and safety, while punishing officials, merchants and farmers who siphon agricultural subsidies and peddle low-grade seeds.

The Farmers’ Daily newspaper cited a case where a seed company paid more than 80 local officials to sell substandard seeds across nearly 30 villages in the southwestern province of Sichuan, causing ‘severe losses for farmers’ who found that the seeds germinated at a rate far below state benchmarks.”

Bottom Line: Learn the basics about seed saving.

“It’s the Best Garden Event in Northern California!” (I said that)

Harvest Day at the Fair Oaks Horticulture Center

Saturday, August 5, 8am-2pm. Free!

Debbie Flower and I will be talking about “Garden Tips to Save Time, Money and Water” at Harvest Day at 830 am. The Fair Oaks Horticulture Center is located at 11549 Fair Oaks Blvd, in Fair Oaks Park, Sacramento County, California. Hope to see you there! More details here. Presented by the U.C. Master Gardeners of Sacramento County.

Thank you for also listening to the Garden Basics with Farmer Fred podcast! It’s available wherever you get your podcasts. Please share it with your garden friends.

Fred Hoffman is also a University of California Cooperative Extension Master Gardener in Sacramento County. And he likes to ride his bike.

This is a public episode. If you'd like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit gardenbasics.substack.com/subscribe

Record-breaking heat waves have pummeled the world, especially during the last two years. What’s a gardener to do?

In today’s newsletter podcast (above), Master Gardener Quentyn Young walks us through the fruit tree orchard at the Fair Oaks Horticulture Center, discussing how a record heat wave adversely effected the trees and the fruit. Plus, he has tips for dealing with extended heat waves in the home orchard.

Heatwaves vs. Drooping Leaves

Here we go again. Another multi-day bout of triple digit temperatures hit us last weekend and beyond. I’m just guessing that SOMEWHERE in the northern hemisphere of planet Earth, this will be the case for the balance of the summer, possibly into early Fall. What should a gardener do if the plants in your outdoor vegetable and flower gardens start showing droopy leaves when the temperature tops 100 degrees? Or, as the National Weather Service warned, 110 degrees? 

There are two schools of thought about what you should do. One school says plants naturally conserve moisture on a hot afternoon by allowing their leaves to sag; wait until the morning before determining if the plant needs water. According to the University of Maryland: “Sometimes a plant wilts on a hot day because moisture is evaporating from the leaves faster than the roots can take it up. If there is ample soil moisture, the plant will absorb water in the evening to restore turgor to the stems and leaves.” They also point out that hot, drying winds can also cause temporary wilting even when soil moisture is adequate.

The other school says: Don't believe that first school. "Large, thin leaves, common in many ornamental, annual and vegetable species, do not conserve water," writes Washington State University Horticulture Professor Linda Chalker-Scott. "Tomatoes, zucchini and black-eyed Susans...are not water conservers. Chronic wilting of these and others can eventually cause leaf tip and margin necrosis (or tissue death). It also reduces growth, so that your yield of tomatoes, zucchini and black-eyed Susan flowers will be decreased." She advises applying a layer of mulch around those plants to help conserve water.

However, be forewarned: drooping leaves can also indicate a lack of oxygen in the soil due to too much standing water. Using a moisture meter, plunge it into the soil to a depth of eight to 12 inches. That can help determine whether the suffering plant might benefit from a drink of water or that there is too much water present in the soil. Check the moisture in the root zone before your usual watering, as well. Improper watering is the number one cause of plant failure.

The U.C. Master Gardeners of Marin County offer some tips to relieve heat stress on plants during extreme weather events:

• Water thoroughly in the morning on days when high temperatures are expected, to help plants cope with excess heat. If discovered in time during a heat wave, a drooping, wilted plant can often be revived with additional water. 

• Watch for radiant heat - Pay special attention to plants next to walkways, patios, and other structures that radiate heat. They may be the first to show signs of heat stress and the need for extra water.

• Add mulch - Apply two to four inches of organic mulch over the root areas around garden plants, trees, and shrubs. This will lower soil temperature and diminish moisture loss.

• Provide shade - Use shade cloth to provide direct sun protection and reduce the air temperature around sun and heat-exposed plants. 

• Avoid applying fertilizers during extreme heat as they stimulate growth and add to plant stress. Fertilizers also absorb moisture from the root zone.

• Harvest ripening fruit to give plants a break during hot spells. Fruiting plants will drop flowers during periods of extreme heat to conserve energy. 

And a few more pieces of advice from the University of Maryland:

• Severe heat and water stress when a plant is in bloom may cause scorching or browning of flower buds and blossoms.

• Locate garden close to a water source. Be prepared to water all vegetable plants deeply at least once each week during hot, dry weather. 

• Conversely, vegetable plant roots growing in poorly drained soils can quickly become deprived of needed oxygen leading to wilting and yellowing and browning of leaves and stems. This will be most noticeable on tight, clayey soils during prolonged rainy periods and can lead to severe disease problems. Avoid poorly drained soils. Plant in raised beds if necessary. 

“It’s the Best Garden Event in Northern California!” (I said that)

Harvest Day at the Fair Oaks Horticulture Center

Saturday, August 5, 8am-2pm. Free!

Debbie Flower and I will be talking about “Garden Tips to Save Time, Money and Water” at Harvest Day at 830 am. The Fair Oaks Horticulture Center is located at 11549 Fair Oaks Blvd, in Fair Oaks Park, Sacramento County, California. Hope to see you there! More details here. Presented by the U.C. Master Gardeners of Sacramento County.

Thank you for also listening to the Garden Basics with Farmer Fred podcast! It’s available wherever you get your podcasts. Please share it with your garden friends.

Fred Hoffman is also a University of California Cooperative Extension Master Gardener in Sacramento County. And he likes to ride his bike.

This is a public episode. If you'd like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit gardenbasics.substack.com/subscribe

Phosphorus, in the world of plant fertilizers, is considered a macronutrient, an important element used by plants. Phosphorus is used to promote root and tuber growth, as well as the production of flowers and seeds. But, do you really need to add it every time you fertilize? And why have 13 states - as well as several municipalities - placed restrictions on the use of phosphorus?

Phosphorus is the “P” in “N-P-K”, the percentage of macronutrients found listed on the front of a container of fertilizer. But how much phosphorus do your plants need for sufficient growth?

Apparently, not as much as Calcium or Magnesium, according to this chart presented as evidence by the University of Wisconsin. Should phosphorus be getting as much credit as Nitrogen or Potassium, every time you look at a bag of fertilizer? Garden author Robert Kourik (“Sustainable Food Gardens”) points out that not only is Phosphorus over applied by gardeners, it may not be organic, and it is certainly detrimental to the health of aquatic life when it is allowed to runoff into local streams. And speaking of detrimental, in today’s newsletter podcast (above), Kourik talks about the time he took a bag of phosphorus fertilizer to the local radiation analyst. Things started clicking! He has video, too:

According to the Chicago Botanic Garden, when too much phosphorus is applied or is applied at the wrong time—such as right before it rains—most of it is washed away and ends up in the local waterways. This type of pollution is called nonpoint source pollution. It causes eutrophication (a reduction of dissolved oxygen in water bodies caused by an increase of minerals and organic nutrients) of rivers and lakes. This reduced level of oxygen in water ends up suffocating fish. Several municipalities have banned the use of phosphorus-containing fertilizers for turf or lawn areas. These laws are designed to protect local water quality in lakes, streams, and ponds. According to several experts, in most cases, phosphorus is not needed to maintain a healthy lawn. Retailers near towns that have enacted a ban are required to alert customers about the prohibition of phosphorus in fertilizers for lawn and turf by posting a sign where fertilizers are sold.

At least 11 states ban phosphorus fertilizer use or sale: Illinois, Maine, Maryland, Michigan, Minnesota, New Jersey, New York, Vermont, Virginia, Washington, and Wisconsin.

More are joining that group, including Pennsylvania and Florida, as well as several cities and counties, especially those that border large bodies of water. But it isn’t just lawns. Phosphorus, as well as nitrogen, are facing restrictions in all fertilizers offered for sale there.

Consider these controversial restrictions that are in Brevard County Florida:

“Spring is a popular time to fertilize the lawn, but did you know there are wrong ways to fertilize plants? Are you aware that a fertilizer ban goes into effect on June 1?

Follow these fertilizer ordinances throughout Brevard County which state:

* No nitrogen or phosphorus can be applied to any plants between June 1 and Sept. 30.

* When applying a fertilizer with nitrogen, it must contain a minimum of 50% slow-release nitrogen and must be applied at a maximum rate of 1 pound of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet per application.

* Phosphorus can only be applied if a soil test indicates it is needed.

* When applying phosphorus, a maximum of .25 pounds per 1,000 square feet can be applied at one time, with a maximum of .5 pounds per 1,000 square feet applied yearly.

* Do not fertilize if heavy rain is forecast.

* A 10-foot fertilizer-free zone next to water bodies must be maintained in Cape Canaveral, Cocoa, Indian Harbor Beach, Malabar, Palm Bay and Satellite Beach. Residents living in unincorporated Brevard County, Melbourne, and Melbourne Beach must maintain a 15-foot fertilizer-free zone along water bodies. The City of Rockledge has a fertilizer-free zone east of Rockledge Drive. All other municipalities not mentioned have a 25-foot fertilizer-free zone along the IRL, Banana River and any other water body.

* Keep fertilizer and grass clippings on the lawn and off sidewalks, driveways, roads and out of storm drains and water bodies.”

Is Phosphorus Radioactive?

According to the EPA, The United States mines and consumes about 23 million tons of phosphate rock per year, most of it (95%) for wet-process phosphoric acid or super phosphoric acid intended for fertilizers, with the balance used to produce phosphorus compounds for industrial applications, primarily glyphosate herbicide.

The most important use of phosphate rock is in the production of phosphate fertilizers. Due to its chemical properties, phosphate rock may contain significant quantities of naturally occurring radioactive materials (NORM):

* Uranium

* Thorium

* Radium

* Their decay products

Uranium concentrations in phosphate ores found in the U.S. range from 20 - 300 parts per million (ppm). Thorium occurs at essentially background levels, between 1 - 5 ppm.

Before phosphate ore is turned into fertilizer or other products, it is transformed into either phosphoric acid (through a wet process), or elemental phosphorus (through a thermal process). This processing concentrates NORM in the waste products, transforming them into Technologically Enhanced Naturally Occurring Radioactive Materials (TENORM).

Bottom Line: Get a Soil Test Done Before Applying Any Fertilizers

Why waste your money and possibly degrade the environment if you don’t need certain soil nutrients? Home test kits are available widely for testing N-P-K content of soils. For a more complete soil test, check with your local county Ag agency or Cooperative Extension Office and see if they offer testing at a reasonable price. At least three Universities do offer soil testing services for home gardeners, including:

University of Massachusetts/Amherst, Texas A&M, and Colorado State.

Kourik also recommends Harmony Farm Supply in Sonoma County, CA for soil testing services.

All of Robert Kourik’s garden-related publications can be found at his website, RobertKourik.com

“It’s the Best Garden Event in Northern California!” (I said that)

Harvest Day at the Fair Oaks Horticulture Center

Saturday, August 5, 8am-2pm. Free!

Debbie Flower and I will be talking about “Garden Tips to Save Time, Money and Water” at Harvest Day at 830 am. The Fair Oaks Horticulture Center is located at 11549 Fair Oaks Blvd, in Fair Oaks Park, Sacramento County, California. Hope to see you there! More details here. Presented by the U.C. Master Gardeners of Sacramento County.

Thank you for also listening to the Garden Basics with Farmer Fred podcast! It’s available wherever you get your podcasts. Please share it with your garden friends.

Fred Hoffman is also a University of California Cooperative Extension Master Gardener in Sacramento County.

And he likes to ride his bike.

This is a public episode. If you'd like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit gardenbasics.substack.com/subscribe

For those of you who did not receive last Friday’s Beyond the Garden Basics newsletter, here it is. My apologies. I will send the gremlins to bed without dinner.

In today’s newsletter podcast (above), we chat with Don Shor of Redwood Barn Nursery in Davis, CA. Don is a big fan of growing tomatoes, and it helps that his nursery is located in a county that just so happens to be one of the top tomato producing regions in the entire world. In this conversation about tomato troubles (originally aired in June of 2020 on the Garden Basics with Farmer Fred podcast), Don talks about many of the tomato travails we discuss in today’s newsletter, along with a few more. Alas, we did not get into many tomato issues (especially diseases) that might be daily occurrences in more humid climates, nor did we discuss everybody’s summertime garden pal, the tomato hornworm. We’re saving that for a future newsletter.

The tomato, according to the National Gardening Association, is America’s favorite backyard vegetable. 86% of American gardens contain at least one tomato plant. Nothing beats the flavor and aroma of a homegrown tomato in the summer. However, with that pleasure, comes a bit of pain. Now is the time when several tomato problems can crop up, leaving gardeners fretting about the future of their plants.

“Why are the tomato blossoms falling off?”

Tomato growers’ primary concern during the plant’s young growing stage is centered around, “Why are the tomato blossoms falling off?”

According to the tomato experts at UC Davis, blossom drop is usually weather related. Nighttime temperatures below 55 or daytime temperatures above 90 degrees can cause premature blossom failure on tomato plants. Planting tomatoes too early in the spring is stressful for the plants. Late April through early June is good for planting most tomato varieties here.

Other causes of tomato blossom failure and fruit drop include planting tomatoes where there is too much shade or using too much nitrogen fertilizer. Be sure to read and follow all label directions on a fertilizer intended for tomatoes and vegetables.

Thinking of using a tomato hormone spray to help the plant maintain its blossoms? The tomato experts at UC Davis say that won’t work when temperatures are forecast to be in the 90’s or above.

Abiotic Disorders of Tomato Plants

According to the University of California Statewide Master Gardener Program, five of the most common tomato maladies are abiotic disorders. “Abiotic” does not refer to pests or diseases, but to environmental issues, such as unfavorable soil conditions, temperature extremes, physical or chemical injuries, and watering issues – either too much or too little, and, of course, “operator error.” The abiotic problems of tomatoes include:

• Sunburn

Sunburn or sun scald is recognizable by a light brown or leathery-looking area on the sides of tomatoes that are getting hit by direct sun. Too much sunlight on tomatoes can be controlled by not pruning away leaf cover; maintaining plant vigor to produce adequate leaf cover; or, providing partial shade with a light-colored shade cloth or row cover during the hours of most intense sunlight.

• Blossom End Rot

This looks like sunburn, except it's the bottom of the tomato that becomes brown. Generally, it is a calcium deficiency brought on by fluctuating soil moisture or soils with too much salt. Maintain even soil moisture; amend the planting area with compost to improve water retention; avoid heavy applications of high-nitrogen fertilizer; and, if a soil test determines the area is lacking calcium, adding gypsum to the soil at the end of the season.

• Fruit Cracks (Catfacing)

Cat Facing refers to the circular concentric cracks around the stem end. Cracks that radiate outward from the stem, or malformation and cracking at the blossom end is also called fruit cracking. This happens when blossoming and fruit formation begins during hot weather as well as high soil moisture levels. Most gardeners just live with these conditions, knowing they can just cut away the damaged looking area and still have a tasty tomato. To help limit future outbreaks, keep the soil evenly moist; maintain leaf cover; give the plants some partial shade during hours of most intense sunlight; and add mulch, about three to seven inches high, around the plant, to maintain soil moisture and moderate temperature swings.

• Solar Yellowing and Green Shoulders

Noticeable by a yellow or yellow-orange color. Also, the upper portions of the tomato remain green even though the lower portion looks red and ripe. Caused by high temperatures and high light intensity, the solution - once again – is to maintain adequate plant vigor to encourage more leaf cover, avoid over-pruning, and provide partial shade during the hours of the most intense sunlight.

• Leaf Roll

The older tomato leaves may roll upward and inward suddenly and become stiff to the touch, brittle and leathery. Caused by high light intensity and high soil moisture, particularly when the tomato plants are staked and heavily pruned. Some tomato varieties are just more naturally susceptible to this problem. Maintaining even soil moisture and providing shade during hours of intense sunlight can help limit leaf roll. However, there are other, more sinister causes of tomato leaf roll, including herbicide drift damage, mites, viruses, and compost tainted with herbicides. For more about that, read the Texas A&M Agrilife report, “Why are my tomato leaves curling?”

“It’s the Best Garden Event in Northern California!” (I said that)

Harvest Day at the Fair Oaks Horticulture Center

Saturday, August 5, 8am-2pm. Free!

Debbie Flower and I will be talking about “Garden Tips to Save Time, Money and Water” at Harvest Day at 830 am. The Fair Oaks Horticulture Center is located at 11549 Fair Oaks Blvd, in Fair Oaks Park, Sacramento County, California. Hope to see you there! More details here. Presented by the U.C. Master Gardeners of Sacramento County.

Thank you for also listening to the Garden Basics with Farmer Fred podcast! It’s available wherever you get your podcasts. Please share it with your garden friends.

Fred Hoffman is also a University of California Cooperative Extension Master Gardener in Sacramento County. And he likes to ride his bike.

This is a public episode. If you'd like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit gardenbasics.substack.com/subscribe

Trying to decipher the basics on how to sharp garden hand tools can be a bit daunting to understand in an audio format. Here’s Sacramento County Master Gardener Bill Black, with his YouTube video about garden tool sharpening. Every picture tells a story, don’t it?

How to Care and Store Your Garden Hand Tools

As the weather heats up, don’t ignore your garden tools after a hard day in the yard. A good habit to get into is to clean and store your garden tools correctly before you go indoors for the afternoon.

We know that cleaning the mud and dirt off shovels, trowels and other digging tools can help prevent rust. Did you know that how you store your garden tools might also lead to rust? On the Garden Basics podcast (Episode 165, “Garden Tool Care”), retired college horticulture professor Debbie Flower explained how that could happen.

“On a garage surface, for example, moisture can move up through a concrete floor, if it's just a pad on the ground,” Flower said. “And that can cause the tips of a shovel to rust.”

The cure for that? Hang the tools or store them upside down, she says.

“Use wall hooks to hang the tools,” says Flower. “Or you can make tool storage dividers in which the tool sits on the ground, but it's the handle that touches the ground, not the metal blade.”

And the wise gardener can help ensure that their garden tools can last a lifetime by first purchasing well-made tools. San Joaquin County Master Gardeners Lee Miller and Victor Rosasco advise you: instead of purchasing several inexpensive tools, pick the one tool that you will use the most, and then buy the highest quality one you can find.

In a previous edition of the San Joaquin County Master Gardener’s newsletter, “Garden Notes,” the pair write that good tools can last a lifetime and you get what you pay for. An example would be a spading fork with heavy forged tines, such as one from English toolmaker Clarington Forge. It might cost about three times more than a cheaper spading fork. They point out that the cheaper spading fork might have inexpensive tines that will bend after a few plunges into heavy clay soil. Whenever possible, purchase tools that are forged from one piece of metal. They are stronger and less likely to be compromised. A spading fork usually has four flat, wide tines that make it much easier than a shovel for penetrating tough soil, turning raw compost, transplanting, or weeding.

The duo also points out that shovel heads made of sheet metal, wrapped around the handle, are less expensive…but not as strong and durable as ones forged with a socket for the shovel handle. “When you step into the soil on a shovel and the blade feels like it is moving sideways, you know you have a cheap shovel,” they advise. “Good shovels also have blunt tops or pads so when you step on the shovel, it is more comfortable.”

The Master Gardeners point out that tool sharpening is a required skill to keep shovels and pruners in good working order, so you don’t have to work as hard. Miller and Rosasco say that surprisingly, many cutting and digging tools are not sharp upon initial purchase: “Right off, it is important to sharpen them. After this initial sharpening, tool edges can be maintained with a sharpening stone or a mill file. Files sharpen only on the forward stroke. So, it is ‘stroke, lift, return, and stroke again’. For pruners, loppers, or any fine cutting tool, never use a grinder. If the edge is nicked, as sometimes happens when we accidentally cut wire or another hard surface, a file is best for removing the nicks. If it’s just dull, a small sharpening stone, file or diamond sharpener can be used.”

The pair agree that maintenance is key for protecting your investment in quality garden tools. Store your tools indoors. Moreover, don’t forget to give them a bit of care: “Keep tools, especially shovels, clean and shiny,” they say. “Dirt left on the tool creates a rusty surface to which more dirt will stick. Use a wire brush or whatever is at hand to remove dirt after using. Spraying with a vegetable oil or a commercial penetrating oil and water-displacing spray (such as WD-40) will help keep rust away while stored.”

In an earlier edition of this newsletter, we asked the experts about the pros and cons of choosing bypass vs. anvil pruners. You can check out that edition from February 2022 here.

“It’s the Best Garden Event in Northern California!” (I said that)

Harvest Day at the Fair Oaks Horticulture Center

Saturday, August 5, 8am-2pm. Free!

Debbie Flower and I will be talking about “Garden Tips to Save Time, Money and Water” at Harvest Day at 830 am. The Fair Oaks Horticulture Center is located at 11549 Fair Oaks Blvd, in Fair Oaks Park, Sacramento County, California. Hope to see you there! More details here. Presented by the U.C. Master Gardeners of Sacramento County.

Thank you for also listening to the Garden Basics with Farmer Fred podcast! It’s available wherever you get your podcasts. Please share it with your garden friends.

Fred Hoffman is also a University of California Cooperative Extension Master Gardener in Sacramento County. And he likes to ride his bike.

This is a public episode. If you'd like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit gardenbasics.substack.com/subscribe

Today’s newsletter podcast (above) features Master Gardener/Vegetable Expert Gail Pothour, discussing her favorite cucumber varieties, as well as tips and tricks for their success. Originally featured in Episode 263 of the Garden Basics with Farmer Fred podcast, in which we talked about the Top 5 favorite homegrown vegetables, according to the National Gardening Association. According to the NGA, cucumbers are the second most popular crop for home gardeners. Number One? Tomatoes, of course. A transcript of our conversation with Gail about cucumbers can be found towards the bottom of this newsletter. Meanwhile…

Tackling Summer Cucumber Issues

Last week we tackled the topic of poor pollination of summer squash plants. The lack of late spring zucchini fruit production is usually due to uncooperative weather, a lack of bee activity, or erratic coordination of the development of the male and female flowers of those vines. This week, we turn our attention to a close relative of summer squash, cucumbers. Cucumbers are the second most popular homegrown vegetable (after tomatoes), according to the National Gardening Association. And sure enough, many gardeners are fretting now about these summertime princes of the pickling world.

We asked our favorite retired college horticulture professor, Sacramento-based Debbie Flower, about the primary needs for growing cucumbers successfully. She says freshness, warmth and water are at the top of the list.

“The soil needs to be moist, not wet, but moist, all the time,” explains Flower. “Cucumbers are a warm season plant, a warm season annual. They need soil temperatures to be quite warm when you seed them. And you typically want to direct seed them, not start them from transplants ahead of time. They get root bound while in a container, it dwarfs them. They will never grow very big. If you do that once in your gardening life, you’ll remember it. It's such a disappointment.

“I just tried my second time planting my cucumber seeds. I had planted some old seeds a few weeks ago and that might have been my problem. In general, you don't want to keep cucumber seeds more than two years. And these were two-year-old seeds. Even though I stored them correctly, in the refrigerator over those two years, they just didn't germinate. So yesterday I planted fresh seed. I would advise starting with fresh seed, plant them directly into the garden when your night temperatures have settled at 50 to 55 degrees Fahrenheit or greater. They need six to eight hours of sun, that's considered full sun. They need well drained, fertile soil and regular moisture.”

Cucumbers are natural climbers and are less prone to rot issues and diseases when grown vertically. Training them up one or two heavy-duty, 6-gauge metal livestock panels to support the cucumbers eases harvesting chores.

Cucumbers can also be grown in large containers, 18-24” deep. According to the Santa Clara County Master Gardeners: 18" to 24" deep containers (such as half-barrels or livestock watering troughs) can be used for deep-rooted vegetables such as tomatoes, potatoes, zucchini, winter squashes, beans, corn, cucumbers.

Solving Cucumber Bitterness

A very bitter gardener wrote to us recently: “I have never managed to grow vigorous cucumber vines, and the cucumbers themselves are often bitter. I've heard many explanations for this, including lack of water, weather that is too hot and weather that is too cold. What is the truth?”

We solicited the advice of three University of California cucumber experts about controlling bitterness. All had similar answers.

• Select the newer hybrid varieties, which have been bred to reduce the cause of the bitterness. That’s according to Dennis Pettinger, longtime UC Cooperative Extension Environmental Horticulturist. He adds, “If the cucumbers express bitterness, it can usually be eliminated by peeling away the skin and outer flesh and removing the stem end.”

• According to the Contra Costa County Master Gardeners, the newer cucumber varieties that have been bred to be less bitter include Diva, Sweet Success, Cool Breeze, Summer Dance, Improved Long Green, Eversweet, Ashley, Sunnybrook, Saticoy Hybrid, and Lemon.

• Plant cucumbers in full sun and adjust your watering with the weather to reduce plant stress. El Dorado County Master Gardener Kathy Ruiz writes, “Cool temperatures and shady sites seem to trigger bitterness in cucumbers. Research notes that temperature variations of more than 20 degrees, moisture stress and storage on the vine too long or near other ripening vegetables also can cause bitterness.”

• Again, moisture consistency is key. UC Master Gardener Chantal Guillemin of Contra Costa County writes: “Since cucumbers require ample and regular irrigation during their growing period, add mulches, composted green waste or manure to the soil to increase the soil’s water-holding capacity and supply nutrients to the plants.” Compost or well-aged manures should be mixed into the soil well before planting. Then, top the area with several inches of coarse mulch after planting. Chipped or shredded tree limbs are ideal for mulch.

PODCAST TRANSCRIPT: Growing Cucumbers, with Gail Pothour - Master Gardener

Farmer Fred: So let's move on, on our 10 most popular homegrown garden vegetables. Number two, and I will tell you right off, I don't eat it so I don't grow it. I hope you have, and you can tell us all about cucumbers.

Gail Pothour: Well, my husband won't eat them. So I grow them rarely at home, I am actually going to grow two of my favorites this year. One is called “Green Fingers” and the other is “Silver Slicer”. And “Silver Slicer” is a white, kind of off white cucumber that is very crisp and juicy. It's great. Green Fingers is a hybrid variety. It's small, like baby cucumbers. So you pick them when they're little. And they are never bitter. So it's really good. And then, if I'm going to make pickles, I like to grow “Alibi”. That's a hybrid pickling cucumber. For planting cucumbers, we won’t plant them in our area, probably for several more weeks, they like to have really warm soil, you know, probably in about, you know, a couple three weeks, we should hit 70 degrees. 65 or 70 degrees. for the soil. And that's when we'll plant.

Farmer Fred: Remember, we're talking soil temperature here. And right now, even here in sunny California,  we had one of the coldest wettest winters ever. Our soil temperatures are just starting to get into the upper 50s to low 60s. And it'll be a while before it gets into the 70s, which is prime growing conditions for those roots to really shift into high gear and start production. It could easily be June.

Gail Pothour: Yeah, and cucumbers are something that you can plant all through the summer here. They grow fairly quickly, they produce quickly. So you don't have to start  early in April or in early May, late April or early May. Wait until  the soil temperature has warmed up and the nighttime temperatures are not so cold. You can start them in May, June, July and still get a good crop. You can either direct sow cucumbers or you could do transplants. But remember, they don't like to have their roots disturbed. So what I do, because I do transplants primarily because I have critters around my yard that like to eat the seedlings when they come up, I will start them about three weeks before I want to transplant them out. They grow quickly. I do seeds in a four inch pot and transplant them directly from that pot. Make sure they're not root bound. So if you buy a transplant at the nursery or garden center, be sure it's not root bound.

Farmer Fred: And the easiest way to do that is to flip the pot over. If you see roots coming out the drain holes on that little container, put it back and go look for another one.

Gail Pothour: Yep. And cucumbers can be trained up a trellis so you don't need to use up a lot of real estate in your garden. Grow them up a trellis and it makes for straighter fruits and you get better air circulation that way as well.

Farmer Fred: According to the Vegetable Research Information Center at UC Davis, some of the varieties they recommend for containers (which would indicate they have a smaller growth habit): Pickle Bush, Bush Champion, Parks Bush Whopper, Salad Bush, and Spacemaster. All are rated as suitable for containers. But you're right. Most cucumbers need some training if you're going to be planting them.

Gail Pothour: And they say, by trellising, you can plant more in a smaller space because they're not sprawling all over the ground. They still need to be spaced well enough so that you can get good air circulation. A lot of the crops in that cucurbit family can get powdery mildew, so you want to have good air circulation.

Farmer Fred: Alright, if you like cucumbers, you can plant them, they're easy to grow. And then the good news, like you mentioned, is they grow easily from seed directly sown in the garden. How far apart would you space the seeds?

Gail Pothour: Well, if I was going to train them up a trellis, I would probably grow them a couple feet apart. If you're not going to do them in a trellis, people typically do them in a hill, I  have not grown them in hills, but you would plant several in the hill and then thin them to 2 plants. I would probably do them three or four feet apart, I want to get plenty of air circulation, if they're sprawling if they're not grown up.

Farmer Fred: Probably one of the biggest complaints you might hear about cucumbers is bitterness. And they can experience bitterness, especially those that they've grown for fresh use or for pickling. And that's due to the formation of some compounds that impart a bitter flavor to seedlings, roots, stems, leaves and fruit. And one of the easiest ways, according to the University of California Davis, the easiest way to control the bitterness is basically to cut off the end and the skin on that end. And that can help control the bitterness.

Gail Pothour: Yeah, and those compounds you're talking about, and I've been wanting to say this all day, is cucurbitacins. And that's the compound that does make the fruit bitter. It's also the compound that attracts cucumber beetles. So I know that they're trying to breed cucumbers that don't have those compounds in them, so the cucumber beetles won't be attracted to them. But there are some varieties you can grow that are reliably not bitter. So an Armenian cucumber is one (which by the way, is actually a melon), lemon cucumbers and any of them that are Persian. Those tend to not be bitter.

Farmer Fred: Also avoid growing cucumbers in cool or shaded locations. They need regular moisture, too, as well as regular fertilization. And usually if you choose the new hybrid varieties, bitterness is much less of a problem. And again, if you do taste a bitter cucumber, try peeling away the skin and the outer flesh and removing the stem end.

Gail Pothour: Yeah, because I think that's where the bitterness tends to accumulate or at least start, is at that stem end. But since I don't grow cucumbers all that often, I haven't experienced bitter cucumbers.

Farmer Fred: Some of the varieties that are also recommended for burpless cucumbers if there is such a thing. “Sweet Slice” is recommended by UC Davis for being burpless

Gail Pothour: My husband would appreciate that. That's why he doesn't eat them.

Farmer Fred: Interesting that they note that burpless cucumbers tend to be long and slender with a tender skin and the bitterness associated with the burp has been removed. Other causes of bitterness in cucumbers include temperature variation of more than 20 degrees, moisture stress, and storage of cucumbers near other ripening vegetables. So it sounds like ethylene gas is an issue.

Gail Pothour: It certainly does.

Thank you for also listening to the Garden Basics with Farmer Fred podcast! It’s available wherever you get your podcasts. Please share it with your garden friends.

Fred Hoffman is also a University of California Cooperative Extension Master Gardener in Sacramento County. And he likes to ride his bike.

This is a public episode. If you'd like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit gardenbasics.substack.com/subscribe

Where is the zucchini?

That question is a popular one in the garden e-mail bag lately. Gardeners are fretting over a total lack of summer squash flowers. Other problems include zucchini flowers that drop off, or young fruit that dies back.

A lot of it has to do with timing. Many gardeners tend to plant zucchini seeds at the same time as tomato and pepper plants, usually in April. That’s a bit too early. The heat-loving summer squash varieties get off to a better start when planted in May or June.

However, there are more variables.

Squash needs daytime temperatures in the 80’s and 90’s for best results. Usually, it’s too much heat - temperatures at or above 100 degrees – that slow zucchini production here. Lately, daytime highs have been in the 70’s, a bit below what those squash plants require for quicker results. In addition, if that yellow squash is an older, heirloom variety, it may not grow as vigorously as a newer hybrid variety. Another limiting factor can be too much shade. Make sure all squash plants receive as much sun as possible.

Zucchini and other members of the summer squash family typically have a hard time producing fruit in late spring and early summer, due to incomplete pollination. This problem should straighten itself out if bees are in the area and the weather cooperates. Most years, these issues sort themselves out by July. And before you know it, you’ve got more zucchini than you need or desire.

However, you can help that struggling squash plant, according to Hunter Johnson, Jr., a retired University of California Cooperative Extension Vegetable Specialist.

According to Johnson, gardeners often become concerned when many squash flowers appear early, but fruits fail to set. The reason for this: all the early flowers produced are males, in heirloom squash varieties. Female flowers develop somewhat later. In newer, hybrid varieties of summer squash, the first flowers to appear are usually females, and these will fail to develop unless there are male squash flowers, and bees, in the nearby area.

Squash and other members of the cucurbit family have this flowering habit, which is unique among vegetable crops. They bear two kinds of flowers, male and female, both on the same plant. For fruit set to occur, pollen from the male flower must be transferred to the female flower. The pollen is sticky; so, wind-blown pollination does not occur. Honeybees are the principal means by which pollen is transferred from the male to the female flower. When bees are absent, fruit set on garden plants in the cucurbit family is very poor and often non-existent. If only a few bees are present in the area, partial pollination may occur, resulting in misshapen fruit as well as low yield.

When no bees are present in the garden or the bee population is too low, the dedicated gardener can stand in for the bee by pollinating by hand. Hand pollination is a tedious chore, but it is the only means of obtaining fruit set in the absence of bees. The pollen is yellow in color and produced on the structure in the center of the male flower. You can use a small artist's paint brush to transfer pollen, or you can break off a male flower, remove its petals to expose the pollen-bearing structure, and roll the pollen onto the stigma in the center of the female flower.

When hand pollinating, it is important to use only freshly opened flowers, early in the day. Flowers open in the morning and are receptive for only one day.

The female flower in cucurbits can be recognized easily by the presence of a miniature fruit (ovary) at the base of the flower. The female squash flower is borne on a very short stem, with that bulge at the base. The male squash flower can be identified by its long, slender stem.

As far as all that extra zucchini you’ll get later in the summer? Consider donating it to a food bank, food pantry, or food closet in your area. Find the one nearest to you at ampleharvest.org.

Thank you for also listening to the Garden Basics with Farmer Fred podcast! It’s available wherever you get your podcasts. Please share it with your garden friends.

Fred Hoffman is also a University of California Cooperative Extension Master Gardener in Sacramento County. And he likes to ride his bike.

This is a public episode. If you'd like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit gardenbasics.substack.com/subscribe

If you listened to this week’s Garden Basics with Farmer Fred podcast (Ep. 269: “Growing Your Brain Food Garden”), you heard Dr. Laura Varich of FreshPhysician.com tout the cholesterol-fighting qualities of many home grown vegetables. Lowering cholesterol levels is widely known as a key factor in reducing heart disease. According to Varich, you’re not only doing your heart a favor, but also your brain. High cholesterol levels can also lead to blockages in the brain which can lead to a stroke. And recent evidence has shown that the same narrowing of those brain vessels is also associated with Alzheimer's disease. It seems that plaques and tangles that develop in Alzheimer's disease are likely not to cause the disease, but are instead the brain's response to the damage to that poor blood flow. Examination of the brains of Alzheimer's patients have found significant blockages in the arteries that bring blood to the critical memory centers of the brain. In other words, it's very similar to heart disease and stroke. High blood cholesterol is a major risk factor for the development of Alzheimer's disease.

Among the garden crops that are some of the best for reversing high cholesterol levels (in conjunction with a reduction in consumption of ultra processed food and getting regular exercise) are greens, whole grains and cruciferous vegetables such as broccoli, cauliflower, kale and cabbage. She is especially fond of growing microgreens. Here’s Dr. Varich’s list of the nine best food groups for brain health:

If you live in a hot summer climate, however, growing many of the greens and cruciferous vegetables is seemingly near impossible before they bolt and turn bitter. Those crops definitely prefer a cool climate (where summer temperatures seldom get into the upper 90’s), or the mid-to-late fall, winter, and early spring climate of USDA Zones 9 and 10.

So can a hot climate gardener, who wants to eat healthier homegrown vegetables year-round, thwart this summertime stop sign? Yes.

In today’s Beyond the Garden Basics newsletter podcast (above) we present three ways to eat healthy, homegrown greens year round:

* Growing Microgreens with Master Gardener Gail Pothour (at 00:00 of the newsletter podcast)

* How to Grow Cilantro in a Hot Summer Climate with Renee Shepherd of Renee’s Garden seed catalog (22:37)

* Growing the Cheapskate Salad Bowl, with Brad Gates of Wild Boar Farms (25:24)

Lettuce Varieties to Grow in Hot Summer Climates

An especially vexing garden issue for greens lovers in USDA Zones 8, 9 and 10: How do you grow lettuce in the summertime? We discussed this in Episode 264 of the Garden Basics podcast with vegetable expert and Master Gardener Gail Pothour. A transcript of that conversation follows:

Farmer Fred: All right, now we come to number nine on the list of the 10 most popular garden vegetables and it's a cool season crop in California. If you live in a very mild climate, or the Bay area of California, you can certainly grow all the lettuce varieties you want. And I can I can see why people grow lettuce and I hope that you try something different than Iceberg. Iceberg, to me, is the least nutritious, colorless, tasteless, lettuce that has fallen into mass marketing. There's a lot of leaf lettuce varieties that are so much tastier and also can withstand heat better than Iceberg.

Gail Pothour: Yeah, I was gonna say Iceberg doesn't do that well in the Sacramento area. We're too hot. And so we generally recommend gardeners to try looseleaf or romaine or  one of the butterhead types. But if you need to have an Iceberg, pick that up at the store, don't try growing it. It won't do that well here.

Farmer Fred: Yeah, it's a waste of space. As a matter of fact, I have been on a lifelong garden search for a lettuce variety, a loose leaf lettuce variety, that can take the heat. Some are better than others as far as getting through July, perhaps. But it seems like when July turns into August, they all start bolting.

Gail Pothour: Right. And actually, several years ago, we did an experiment two years in a row at the Fair Oaks Horticulture Center. Because we get this question a lot, “Why can't I grow lettuce in the summer?”. So we thought okay, let's find some varieties, and grow them through the heat of summer and see how they do. First off, you need to start with some varieties that are heat resistant, like Jericho that was bred in Israel, so it's a little more heat resistant. And we tried half dozen or so different varieties we monitored when we planted them, how many weeks it was before they started bolting. Some did better than others. Some did pretty well. But what we found is you need to mulch heavily to keep the moisture in, to keep them well watered, provide shade during their entire lifespan in the summer, and then be prepared as soon as one starts to bolt, take it out and then replant with another transplant. So kind of a succession planting. It is possible but it's a lot of work. It takes a lot of water and shading and monitoring. Not sure if it's worth it or not. Grow it in the shade if you have a shady location but often it's not just the sunlight, it is the heat and that’s true even in the shade in Sacramento. We can be fairly warm in the summertime. So it's a tough thing to do.

Farmer Fred: The closest green I found that can be grown year round and especially if you do it in the shade it does okay here, and that’s swiss chard.

Gail Pothour: Right yeah, that can be grown year round. I have done it in an area of my yard where it got some afternoon shade in the summertime. And it was able to survive over summer. But yeah, any of the other leafy greens are going to be a little tough. One of my favorites or absolute favorite lettuce is called Pomegranate Crunch. It's a red romaine. And it is very good. I get it as pelleted seeds, which makes it a little bit easier to germinate. Lettuce can have a difficult time germinating. Lettuce does need light in order to germinate. So don't plant the seed too deeply. Pelleted seeds don't have that problem. But I think sometimes if people have difficulty getting lettuce to germinate, it’s because maybe they buried it too deep. It needs light. It's one of the few vegetables that needs to light to germinate.

Farmer Fred: And I believe it's one of those seeds that will not germinate in heat.

Gail Pothour: Right, right. If you tried sowing lettuce seed in the summer, maybe for a fall crop, it is difficult. If your soil temperatures are too warm, the lettuce seed can go dormant. So if you're also starting it indoors, whereas I use a heating mat to get a lot of my seeds to germinate, you don't use a heating mat for lettuce because the soil will be too warm and lettuce seed will go dormant in heat.

Farmer Fred: Some of the varieties that have been recommended as heat tolerant lettuces that I've grown over the years, and they're barely heat tolerant, are Black Seeded Simpson and Amish Deer tongue. They're pretty good. But like I said, they do eventually bolt. But  I think one good rule to remember is if you want lettuce to last in the yard as long as possible, grow loose leaf varieties, not head lettuce.

Gail Pothour: Right. And of the ones that we did in our heat tolerant trial, yhe ones that did well besides Jericho was Year Round Bronze. It's an oak leaf variety, and it was late to bolt in the summer so it actually did very well. Red Cross is a red butterhead, Merlot is a dark red leaf lettuce, and “Paradai”, a red oak leaf. That's one of my favorites, but I can no longer find seeds for it. And then Nevada. It's a green loose leaf, kind of a semi heading type. So all those did well as well as completely expected in our summer heat. So they did better than a lot of other varieties.

Farmer Fred: I'm glad you mentioned Nevada because I have grown that one before and it it was pretty good. But I think if you want a dependable green, do the Swiss chard.

Gail Pothour: Right, I agree.

Brad Gates’ of Wild Boar Farms and his “Cheapskate Salad Bowl”

Thank you for also listening to the Garden Basics with Farmer Fred podcast! It’s available wherever you get your podcasts. Please share it with your garden friends.

Fred Hoffman is also a University of California Cooperative Extension Master Gardener in Sacramento County. And he likes to ride his bike.

This is a public episode. If you'd like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit gardenbasics.substack.com/subscribe