Beyond the Garden Basics

In today’s newsletter podcast: Back in November of 2020, we chatted about poinsettia plant basics, with Bill Eisley, a wholesale grower of poinsettia plants in Auburn, CA.

Searching for that last minute Christmas gift? Many stores, including supermarkets, are now offering red and ivory-colored poinsettias, tropical plants native to Mexico, that are showstoppers this time of year for any dining room table. Even more colorful varieties are available at area nurseries and garden centers.

Don’t grab and run with the first poinsettia plant you see. Take a few minutes to closely examine the plant.

• Avoid buying poinsettias from exterior store displays. Poinsettias (Euphorbia pulcherrima) are tropical plants. They will be stressed in temperatures below 60 degrees. Choose a poinsettia from a well-lit indoor display.

• The eye-catching red color (or white, cream, salmon or pink) on the poinsettia plants is not the flower; those are the modified leaves, known as bracts. The true flowers of a poinsettia are the small yellow berries, the cyathia, in the center of the bracts. Choose poinsettias that have tightly budded cyathias, not ones that are fully open.

• Make sure that the smaller bracts surrounding the cyathia are fully colored. If these secondary bracts are not fully colored, the plants will quickly fade and lose color. 

• Examine the plant's soil before purchasing. It is best to avoid waterlogged soil, particularly if the plant appears wilted. Such a condition could signify irreversible root rot.

Here are a few ideas to keep poinsettia plants looking good for another couple of months indoors:

• Place your plant in indirect sunlight for at least six hours per day. If direct sun can't be avoided, diffuse the light with a shade or sheer curtain. 

• Provide room temperature between 68 - 70 F. If you are comfortable, so is your poinsettia. 

• Do not place plants near cold drafts or sources of heat. Avoid placing plants near appliances, wood stoves or ventilating ducts. 

• Water your plant when the soil feels dry to the touch. Avoid overwatering your plant. Don’t let it sit in standing water. 

• Always remove decorative foil from the outside of a container before watering. Allow the water to drain completely. Afterwards, return the decorative foil to the container, if desired.

• It is not necessary to fertilize your plant when it is in bloom.

If you want to try to get that poinsettia to rebloom for Christmas 2023 – and you have a lot of patience and perseverance – try these tactics:

• In late March or early April, cut back the plant so that two buds remain, about six inches from the base. The plant may still look elegant before you start this radical surgery, but the pruning is necessary to help it look great for next December. 

• In April, place the plant - pot and all- outside in a mostly sunny, warm area; against a south wall beneath the overhang of your house or apartment would be ideal. Keep the poinsettia watered, pruning back the branches by a couple of inches in June and August to keep the plant from getting leggy. When the red color begins to show, start feeding the plant with a fertilizer that has a bit more nitrogen in it than phosphorus and potassium. Follow label directions.

• In late October, before the first frost, bring the plant back into the house and keep it in a dark closet or room for at least fourteen hours a day. The plant will bloom only when it has had these long "nights." By next Christmas, you'll again be able to enjoy the striking beauty of that same poinsettia plant. 

If all this sounds like a lot of work, it is. Moreover, the result may not be as spectacular as the original plant's bloom. The good news: there will always be more colorful poinsettias for sale next holiday season. So, when you’re done enjoying that poinsettia plant this winter, you can always add it to your compost bin.

More tips on poinsettia care from the National Garden Bureau.

Thank you for listening to the Garden Basics with Farmer Fred podcast! It’s available wherever you get your podcasts. Please share it with your garden friends.

As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases from some of the underlined links in the newsletter. This is how I am trying to keep this a free newsletter. And as long as you buy whatever you want from Amazon using any of those links to get into the Amazon site, I get a few pennies. Thank you.

Thanks for Subscribing and Spreading the Word About the Beyond the Basics: The Garden Basics with Farmer Fred newsletter, I appreciate your support. 

Fred Hoffman is also a University of California Cooperative Extension Master Gardener in Sacramento County.

This is a public episode. If you'd like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit gardenbasics.substack.com/subscribe

What are Fruit Tree Chill Hours? Do They Matter?

In today’s newsletter podcast (Above. Originally aired in Episode 105 of Garden Basics), Tom Spellman of Dave Wilson Nursery explains the term “chill hours” and how cold winter temperatures helps production on many deciduous fruit trees, especially apples. Chill hours refer primarily to low temperatures (usually between 32 and 45 degrees Fahrenheit) during a fruit tree’s dormant months in the winter.

But Tom Spellman is throwing a monkey wrench into the hard rules about growing fruit trees that require lots of winter chilling hours (more than 800 hours) in areas of the country that don’t get that cold in the winter. And he is having a lot of success in his test orchard in Southern California, where accumulated winter chill hours seldom top 100, but still has nighttime cooling in the 40’s and 50’s. Tom explains his “high chill trees in a low chill test area” in today’s newsletter podcast (above). The key, Tom points out, is “All Gardening is Local” (hmm…that sounds familiar!).

Most chill hour requirements listed for deciduous fruit trees were originally established where the tree has been growing - and producing - for decades. The only way to see if a particular fruit tree that supposedly requires winter chill can succeed in your area, is to try to grow it in your locale. And as Tom points out in an article he wrote for the Dave Wilson website, “Fruit varieties can be productive where chill hours are less than recommended if there is sufficient cool weather (45-55°F) during the dormant period.”

1. In fall, deciduous fruit trees lose their leaves and enter a dormant state in order to survive winter. To end dormancy, bloom and set fruit they require a certain amount of winter cold (their “chilling requirement”) followed by a certain amount of heat. Chilling requirements vary widely among varieties.

2. Fruit varieties with chilling requirements much lower than received at the planting location may end dormancy and bloom too early, subjecting tree, bloom and fruit to freeze damage. Conversely, varieties with chilling requirements much higher than received will suffer delayed, weak leafing and blooming and will not fruit satisfactorily.

3. To quantify fruit tree chilling Dave Wilson Nursery uses the most widely used method, the Hours Below 45°F model. One hour below 45°F during the dormant period (autumn leaf fall to spring bud break) equals one hour of chilling or one “chill hour”.

4. Research indicates fruit tree chilling also occurs above 45°F (to about 55°F), is most effective at about 35-50°F, and does not occur below about 30°F. Chilling temperatures are most effective in early dormancy and during that time accumulated chilling can be negated by temperatures above 60°F. Such findings help explain the response of specific varieties to different climates, i.e. to different patterns of cold and warm temperatures.

5. Generally, fruit growers have most success with varieties that have stated chilling requirements similar to the chilling typically received at the planting location: “high chill” varieties (800-1,000+ hours) for cold winter climates, “low chill” varieties (500 hours and less) for warm winter climates.

6. Published chilling requirements for a fruit variety can be the minimum chilling required to produce a satisfactory home garden crop up to a higher requirement for the consistent, maximum crop sought by commercial growers. Note that many apple varieties can set fruit with far less chilling than recommended, color and quality depending on climate.

7. Fruit varieties can be productive where chill hours are less than recommended if there is sufficient cool weather (45-55°F) during the dormant period.

8. Some cold hardy fruit varieties are widely adapted because they have a low or moderate chilling requirement as well as a cold hardiness deriving from a high heat requirement for ending dormancy.

9. Much of California has an ideal, virtually frost-free fruit growing climate where almost any kind of deciduous fruit can be grown, including varieties with chilling requirements anywhere from 100 to 800 or more hours.

10. A variety is proven for a climate or region only by growing it there. When choosing fruit varieties always refer to area retail nurseries, agricultural universities, county extension offices and master gardeners for local fruit growing information and ideas.

CAN YOU GROW AN APPLE TREE FROM SEED?

Callers to the Garden Basics podcast or questions to the Farmer Fred e-mail bag also contain the attempts of many home garden scientists, trying to expand their horticultural horizons. Someone is always trying to grow something that is not intended (supposedly) for the local area.     Roberta of Carmichael (Sacramento County, CA) is trying to emulate Johnny Appleseed:

      "I have two Maiden Blush apple trees in my yard. They ripen in August (which isn't very good). Is there anything I can do to make them ripen later in the year? I grew these trees from seeds from apples off a tree that was on my family's homestead in Nebraska. They are about 15 years old. This year, they seem to have gotten worm holes and not matured as well. Are they prone to any pests or diseases? What about watering? They seemed to have done OK so far, but i want to keep them healthy and alive!"

Depending on your location, the Maiden Blush apple can ripen as early as mid-August or as late as mid-September. The Maiden Blush was introduced into commerce in New Jersey, in the early 1800's. It's a popular dessert apple in the Appalachian mountain regions.

According to Tomorrow’s Harvest representative Ed Laivo, that tree may be producing fruit early because it is stressed due to our summer weather: hot and dry, which is quite different from the tree's original production grounds in New Jersey (humid and rainy in the summer, with a pronounced winter chill). And a stressed tree is an invitation to pests and diseases. Sort of like the slowest antelope in a pack, being chased by a lion. Or an aging catcher trying to steal second base; or, even more entertaining: 42 year-old New York Mets pitcher Bartolo Colon hitting a home run.

The bigger, unasked question: How successful are apple trees grown from seed? According to the Horticulture and Home Pest News of Iowa State University, do you feel lucky?

“It is possible to grow an apple tree from an apple seed,” says the authors of this newsletter.  “However, in most cases, apple trees don't come true from seeds.  For example, a seed taken from a Red Delicious apple will not produce a Red Delicious apple tree.  Seedling apple trees are genetically different and usually inferior to the parent tree.  Most apple trees are propagated by grafting.  Grafting allows growers to produce trees that are identical (genetically) to one another.

“While a tree grown from an apple seed is likely to be disappointing, it's not difficult to germinate apple seeds.  Apple seeds need to be exposed to cool, moist conditions before they will germinate.  The cool, moist requirement can be accomplished by planting apple seeds outdoors in fall.  Plant the seeds 1/2 inch deep.  The cool, moist requirement can also be attained indoors.  Place a layer of moist sand in the bottom of a small container, such as a plastic margarine tub, place the apple seeds on the moist sand, and then cover the seeds with additional moist sand.  Punch 1 or 2 small holes in the plastic lid and then place it on the container.  Place the container in the refrigerator for 90 to 120 days.  (The temperature in the refrigerator should be 37 to 41 degrees Fahrenheit.)  Afterwards, remove the seeds from the refrigerator and plant indoors.  Plant the seeds 1/2 deep in a commercial potting mix.  Keep the potting mix moist until the seeds germinate.” 

The right plant in the right place

Sacramento County may not be the right place for that Maiden Blush apple tree: 100 degree days, 15% humidity, and winter chill hours that are far below what is required for many eastern apple varieties. Winter chill hours are the total number of hours at 45 degrees or less between November and February. The Central Valley of California normally gets between 800 and 1200 chilling hours per year. Coastal California gets far less, ranging from near 0 (41 at La Jolla last winter) to about 400. There are plenty of apples that do well here in California’s hot Central Valley: Fuji, Granny Smith, Spitzenburg, Pink Lady, Gala, Ashmead's Kernel and many more. Their common trait: a winter chill requirement of 800 hours or less. Of those listed, several are taste test winners with winter chill needs that are far less than 800: Pink Lady (300-400 hours), Gala (400-500) and our personal favorite, Granny Smith (400 hours).This is usually a line of questions I get from Bay Area or Southern California transplants to the Sacramento area or the Northern California foothills. They wonder why their bougainvillea dies in the winter here or why they can't get their Hass avocado tree to produce in the valley.  All gardening is local, especially in California, which according to the Sunset Western Garden Book, has 24 gardening climates. Having said that, let me repeat: All Gardening is Local. Actually, All Gardening is Really Local: you just might have the right microclimate in your backyard to grow plants that other gardeners struggle with in your neighborhood: Bananas in Lodi. Jacaranda trees in east Sacramento. And yes, bougainvillea that live year round...if you have the right conditions, and a lot of luck. A good reference book with lots of tips and tricks for growing plants in the Golden State: California Home Landscaping, by Lance Walheim.

Thank you for listening to the Garden Basics with Farmer Fred podcast! It’s available wherever you get your podcasts. Please share it with your garden friends.

As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases from some of the underlined links in the newsletter. This is how I am trying to keep this a free newsletter. And as long as you buy whatever you want from Amazon using any of those links to get into the Amazon site, I get a few pennies. Thank you.

Thanks for Subscribing and Spreading the Word About the Beyond the Basics: The Garden Basics with Farmer Fred newsletter, I appreciate your support. 

Fred Hoffman is also a University of California Cooperative Extension Master Gardener in Sacramento County.

This is a public episode. If you'd like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit gardenbasics.substack.com/subscribe

In today’s newsletter podcast: Diane Blazek, Executive Director of All-America Selections (AAS) and the National Garden Bureau, explains how a plant is selected to become an All-America Selection winning plant.

In Episode 243 of the Garden Basics with Farmer Fred Podcast, Diane goes into the details of each of the winning plants in the 2023 AAS plant competition. Give it a listen while looking at the pictures and comments. More info, plus 90 years worth of previous winners, at the AAS website.

Coleus Premium Sun Coral Candy

Foliage Color: MultiPlant Habit: MoundedPlant Height: 10-16 inches

Does well indoors, in a window with good natural lighting.

JUDGE'S OBSERVATIONS

* “Leaves are vibrant on a very tight, densely leaved plant”

* “Each plant is very uniform, with only minor fading when in full sun”

* “Very nice habit, excellent color, very full, robust, and rounded”

* “This is excellent for container plantings”

* “Phenomenal compact growth habit with appealing foliage color”

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Colocasia ROYAL HAWAIIAN® Waikiki

Foliage Color: Deep-green glossy foliage with white markings and vivid pink veinsPlant Habit: Clump formingPlant Height: 36 inches

Also known as Taro or Elephant’s Ear

JUDGE'S OBSERVATIONS

* “Great foliage color on a compact plant”

* “Color holds up well even in full sun and after a frost”

* “Lush, large full leaves with great color”

* “Tricolor foliage is stunning, red petioles stand out”

* “A fantastic elephant ear that will add drama to the garden”

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Echinacea Artisan™ Yellow Ombre F1

Plant Habit: BushyPlant Height: 24-34 inchesBloom Time: Summer to frostBloom Color: YellowBloom Size: 3-4 inches

Also known as coneflower.

The designation, “F1” or “F1 Hybrid” after a plant name is - according to my Master Gardener friends - “the first generation hybrid seed or plant that occurs following the successful cross-pollination of one genetically uniform plant variety with another specific genetically uniform variety.”

If you can’t remember that, just tell anybody who asks about F1, “they found it in the back of the very first Ford pickup truck.”

JUDGE'S OBSERVATIONS

* “A more saturated bright yellow flower color”

* “A very nice yellow Echinacea. Consistently better than comparisons”

* “Due to the saturated color of the entry, it deserves an award.”

* “Flower color lasted all season”

* “The foliage was cleaner and slightly larger”

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Pepper cayenne Wildcat F1

Plant Height: 36-42 inchesFruit Color (Harvest): Green or RedFruit Shape: Long, curledFruit Size: 8-12 inchesFruit Flavor Description:  Mild pungency 500-1500 Scoville unitsNumber Of Fruits Per Plant: 20-25

Can be grown in an 8 or 15-gallon container.

JUDGE'S OBSERVATIONS

* “The entry fruits were large, about 8″ long, and mostly straight”

* “Lots of fruit production”

* “Entry did have HUGE fruits compared to the comparisons, which made harvest easier (easy to see a 6″ bright red pepper!)”

* “Good flavor and a moderate heat level make this a multi-purpose pepper for your garden”

* “The sheer size of these peppers is astonishing. They are literally almost 100% larger than the others, volumetrically speaking. Insanity”

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Pepper jalapeno San Joaquin F1

Plant Height: 30 inchesFruit Color (Harvest): Green-redFruit Size: 4 inchesFruit Flavor Description: A hint of heat at 2500-6000 Scoville unitsNumber Of Fruits Per Plant: 50

That “hint of heat” may be more than you might desire. Pro tip: to soothe a burning mouth, drink whole milk or eat ice cream. Water, beer, and non-fat milk won’t help.

JUDGE'S OBSERVATIONS

* “Produced almost twice the peppers as the comparisons”

* “Large, thick-walled fruits, well shaded by leaf canopy reducing fruit deformities”

* “Nice compact plant with heavy yields. Large fruit would make excellent stuffers”

* “Loved this variety’s mild heat and large fruits that did not crack”

* “Excellent size, yield, and uniform upright growth. Very good taste”

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Leucanthemum Carpet Angel®

Plant Habit: SpreadingPlant Height: 4-6 inchesBloom Time: All growing seasonBloom Color: WhiteBloom Size: 3 inches

Leucanthemum is a new name for former members of the Chrysanthemum genus. Leucanthemums include the Shasta Daisy and the common daisy. Botanical name changes occur just to tick us off.

JUDGE'S OBSERVATIONS

* “Flowers were unique shape and color”

* “Plants were a nice dwarf size”

* “Very good winter hardiness”

* “The performance is exceptional, surviving many challenges that proved too much for the comparison”

* “The habit and bloom time on this trial is much better than the comparison”

===============

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Salvia “Blue by You”

Plant Habit: MoundedPlant Height: 20-22 inchesBloom Time: Late spring – Late summerBloom Color: BlueBloom Size: 10-12″ inches

A low-water use plant. Dead-head for more blooms. The bees will thank you.

JUDGE'S OBSERVATIONS

* “Intensely beautiful flower color: dark purple with dark burgundy calyces”

* “Individual flower size is larger than the comparison”

* “Overall, a nice plant with good performance”

* “Very nice salvia for the home garden”

* “Flowering is consistent and superior to the comparison”

================

Snapdragon DoubleShot™ Orange Bicolor F1

Plant Height: 18-20 inchesBloom Time: Spring to light frostBloom Color: Orange-whiteBloom Size: 1-2 inches

Considered a cool season annual in USDA Zone 9, snapdragons don’t hit their blooming stride until mid-spring, on exactly the weekend when you want that space for all the enticing summer annuals that are available.

JUDGE'S OBSERVATIONS

* Double flowers are really nice and attractive.

* Strong stems didn’t break, even in hurricane winds.

* Loved the warm color and beautiful double blooms.

* Blooms all summer long, even through high temperatures.

* Truly stunning color, I just can’t stop admiring the subtle gradient throughout. Soft, dusky, romantic, yum!

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Squash kabocha Sweet Jade F1

Plant Habit: ViningPlant Height: 24 inchesFruit Color (Harvest): Jade greenFruit Shape: Flat-roundFruit Size: 4-5 inchesFruit Weight: 1-2 pounds

The secret to a successful pumpkin soup recipe? Use plenty of kabocha squash.

JUDGE'S OBSERVATIONS

* “Nice fruit size, good yields, and nice internal color”

* “Nice single-serving fruits, high yields per plant”

* “Incredible taste! Doesn’t even need butter, salt, etc.”

* “Entry has strong yields, attractive shape and color, and good flesh quality and volume per fruit”

* “This squash was outstanding in taste, texture, and durability”

====================

Tomato Zenzei F1

Plant Habit: indeterminatePlant Height: 72 inchesFruit Color (Harvest): RedFruit Shape: OblongFruit Size: 4-5 inchesFruit Weight: 3-8 ouncesNumber Of Fruits Per Plant: 30-50

If this Roma variety can stave off blossom end rot, it’s got my vote!

JUDGE'S OBSERVATIONS

* “Very early and high-yielding, great color”

* “Very meaty and flavorful fruit”

* “Nice yields, great shape, and color Overall healthy and vigorous plant with large Roma tomatoes”

* “Compact and tidy plant does not impact yield negatively”

* “Great plant for smaller gardens”

=========================

Watermelon Rubyfirm F1

Plant Habit: Climbing/viningFruit Color (Harvest): Jubilee stripe red with red fleshFruit Shape: RoundFruit Size: 6 inchesFruit Weight: 3.3-5.5 poundsFruit Flavor Description: Very sweet and firm fleshNumber Of Fruits Per Plant: 2-3

Put on a juggling clinic at your summer family reunion picnic.

JUDGE'S OBSERVATIONS

* “Loved the taste and the texture”

* “The test variety had good disease resistance and held up through the middle up September against downy and powdery mildew”

* “The flavor is quite good”

* “Rind pattern is unique, attractive flesh color with good texture”

* “Certainly had much less seed than comparisons.”

Thank you for listening to the Garden Basics with Farmer Fred podcast! It’s available wherever you get your podcasts. Please share it with your garden friends.

Fred Hoffman is also a University of California Cooperative Extension Master Gardener in Sacramento County.

This is a public episode. If you'd like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit gardenbasics.substack.com/subscribe

TODAY’S NEWSLETTER PODCAST: UC Davis Arboretum Superintendent Warren Roberts talks about persimmon trees, both American and Japanese persimmons.

California's Central Valley was ablaze in October and early November with the other “orange” fruit tree: the brightly colored persimmon. And it's not just the fruit.

Persimmon tree leaves can turn a brilliant hue of red before the first big wind and rain storm of late November washes them off their branches. What's left behind is the unpicked fruit, dangling like holiday ornaments during December. That's a feast for our eyes...as well as a banquet for hungry birds and squirrels.

Persimmons have adapted well to our California climate: warm, dry summers and mild winters. At least 500 different Japanese persimmon (Diospyros kaki) varieties were brought to California during a major planting spree from 1870 to 1920. In 1877 alone, more than 5,000 plants in 19 varieties were imported from Japan. As a result, 99% of the U.S. commercial persimmon crop is grown here in California.Persimmons are quite nutritious, as well, loaded with Vitamin A, Vitamin C, Fiber, and antioxidants such as Beta-Carotene and Lycopene. 

If you live in the Central Valley, Southern California, Bay Area or low foothills as well as throughout USDA Zones 8 and 9 ... you can grow that! Bare root Japanese persimmon trees will be available at local nurseries during late December, January and February. Give them full sun and regular irrigation in the dry months for best production. Persimmon trees can tolerate partial shade.As Warren explained in the newsletter podcast, persimmons are usually classified as either astringent or non-astringent. For fresh eating straight from the tree, choose a non-astringent, self-pollinating variety such as Fuyu, Giant Fuyu, Yemon or Izu. Astrigent varieties, which need to soften thoroughly before they sweeten, include Hachiya, Chocolate or Tamopan. Those varieties are self-fruitful, as well.

Persimmon growing advice from the California Rare Fruit Growers (CRFG):Location: Full sun with some air movement is recommended for persimmon trees in inland areas, although they will tolerate some partial shade. Persimmons grown in cooler areas should have full sun with protection from cooling breezes. As an attractive ornamental the tree fits well in the landscape. It does not compete well with eucalyptus.Soil: Persimmons can withstand a wide rage of conditions as long as the soil is not overly salty, but does best in deep, well drained loam. A pH range of 6.5 to 7.5 is preferred. The tree has a strong tap root which may mean digging a deeper hole than usual when planting (when on D. kaki stock).Irrigation: Persimmon trees will withstand short periods of drought, but the fruit will be larger and of higher quality with regular watering. Extreme drought will cause the leaves and fruit to drop prematurely. Any fruit left on the tree will probably sunburn. Some 36 to 48 inches of water are needed annually, applied gradually in spring and tapering off in the fall. Hot inland areas may require 2 or 3 applications weekly, while coastal areas may need watering only once every 6 weeks, depending on the soil. If a drip system is is used, the emitters should be moved away from the trunk as the tree matures.Fertilization: Most trees do well with a minimum of fertilizing. Excess nitrogen can cause fruit drop. If mature leaves are not deep green and shoot growth is less than a foot per year, apply a balanced fertilizer such as a 10-10-10 at a rate of 1 pound per inch of trunk diameter at ground level. Spread the fertilizer evenly under the canopy in late winter or early spring.Pruning: Prune persimmon trees to develop a strong framework of main branches while the tree is young. Otherwise the fruit, which is borne at the tips of the branches, may be too heavy and cause breakage. A regular program of removal of some new growth and heading others each year will improve structure and reduce alternate bearing. An open vase system is probably best. Even though the trees grow well on their own, persimmons can be pruned heavily as a hedge, as a screen, or to control size. They even make a nice espalier. Cut young trees back to 1/2 high (or about 3 feet) at the time of planting.Pests and Diseases: Persimmons are relatively problem-free, although mealybug and scale in association with ants can sometimes cause problems. Ant control will usually take care of these pests. Other occasional pests include white flies, thrips which can cause skin blemishes and a mite that is blamed for the "brown lace collar" near the calyx. Waterlogging can also cause root rot. Vertebrate pests such as squirrels, deer, coyotes, rats, opossums and birds are fond of the fruit and gophers will attack the roots. Other problems include blossom and young fruit shedding, especially on young trees. This is not usually a serious problem, but if the drop is excessive, it may be useful to try girdling a few branches. Over watering or over fertilization may also be responsible. Large quantities of small fruit on an otherwise healthy tree can be remedied by removing all but one or two fruit per twig in May or June.Harvest: Harvest astringent varieties when they are hard but fully colored. They will soften on the tree and improve in quality, but you will probably lose many fruit to the birds. Astringent persimmons will ripen off the tree if stored at room temperature. Nonastringent persimmons are ready to harvest when they are fully colored, but for best flavor, allow them to soften slightly after harvest. Both kinds of persimmons should be cut from the tree with hand-held pruning shears, leaving the calyx intact Unless the fruit is to be used for drying whole, the stems should be cut as close to the fruit as possible. Even though the fruit is relatively hard when harvested, it will bruise easily, so handle with care.Storage: Mature, hard astringent persimmons can be stored in the refrigerator for at least a month. They can also be frozen for 6 to 8 months. Nonastringent persimmons can be stored for a short period at room temperature. They will soften if kept with other fruit in the refrigerator. Persimmons also make an excellent dried fruit. They can either be peeled and dried whole or cut into slices (peeled or unpeeled) and dried that way. When firm astringent persimmons are peeled and dried whole they lose all their astringency and develop a sweet, datelike consistency. 

And we are in total agreement with the CRFG: persimmons make an excellent dried fruit, a great sweet snack or for use in cookies or breads, or as a homemade holiday gift.According to our favorite book on dehydration techniques, "How to Dry Foods" by Deanna DeLong:

• Wash and remove the stem cap. Cut fruit in half and then into 3/8-1/2" slices.• Place on a dehydrator sheet in single layers.• Dry at 140 degrees for 1-2 hours, then reduce heat to 135 degrees for an additional 7 hours (approximate).• When done, they should be tender and pliable, but not sticky.At that point, you can either vacuum seal them in plastic bags for long term preservation, or store the dried persimmons in a canning jar for quick use.Backyard gardeners who do a lot of drying are passionate about their choice of dehydrators. Some prefer the rectangular Excalibur dehydrator or other rectangular models. Others (including our household) enjoy the circular Nesco American Harvest or Garden Harvest Dehydrator . Our largest complaint about the Excalibur: the fan blows from the back to the front, which can rearrange any lightweight herb leaves that you might be trying to dry. The Nesco dehydrator's fan moves warm air from the bottom up, offering less disturbance to the drying crops. Still, the Excalibur is a good choice for most fruit and vegetable drying.

Thank you for listening to the Garden Basics with Farmer Fred podcast! It’s available wherever you get your podcasts. Please share it with your garden friends.

As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases from some of the underlined links in the newsletter. This is how I am trying to keep this a free newsletter. And as long as you buy whatever you want from Amazon using any of those links to get into the Amazon site, I get a few pennies. Thank you.

Fred Hoffman is also a University of California Cooperative Extension Master Gardener in Sacramento County.

This is a public episode. If you'd like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit gardenbasics.substack.com/subscribe

Want to grow garlic?

In milder climates (where the ground doesn’t freeze), now is the time to visit your favorite nursery, garden center or garden catalog company to choose the garlic varieties you want. Note I said, “varieties.”  Grocery store garlic is primarily one or two varieties. Around here, it is usually California Early or California Late. And these two softneck, Artichoke varieties of garlic do grow well in USDA Zone 9. They take our late spring heat, are very productive, and can be stored (in a cool, dark room, in netted bags) for up to ten months. However, if you want a variety that has a deeper, full-bodied flavor, choose a hardneck variety, such as one of the Rocambole varieties, many of which do well in colder climates, where garlic is best planted two to four weeks before the ground freezes. In the past, I have had good luck with Killarney Red and German Red. Purple Stripe varieties are also quite flavorful, especially when used in baked dishes. Chesnok Red and FerganskiJ are two Purple Stripes that have done well here. Storage life for these varieties is much shorter, usually four to six months. The longest storing varieties – up to a year – are the Silverskins and Creoles, which include two of my favorites: Nootka Rose and Burgundy. Increasing in popularity because of their large size and tangy flavors are the Porcelain garlics, especially “Music”, with cloves as large as a Brazil nut.

A well-stocked garden center or independent nursery may have a better supply right now than many garlic catalogs, which sell out of their stock quickly. For more information about garlic – including longer definitions than what is supplied here – check out online garlic company Filaree Farm in Washington State (filareefarm.com). Their site can answer many of your garlic questions. A very good book on the subject is “Growing Great Garlic” by Ron Engeland. A harder to find, out-of-print book, “The Complete Book of Garlic” by Ted Jordan, is a prized reference for garlic aficionados.

University of California Cooperative Extension Master Gardener Advisor Emeritus Michelle Le Strange offers these garlic growing tips:

• The first time you plant garlic you should buy planting cloves from your local nursery or garden center. Their heads (bulbs) are typically larger than those in the grocery store and more reliable to grow.

• The best garlic grows in loose, reasonably fertile, well-drained soil.

• Planting a single clove will yield a whole bulb. Break the bulbs apart and remove the very smallest cloves and any that are discolored, moldy, or missing their protective papery jackets.

• Push the cloves, pointed end up, into the soil about two inches deep. Space the cloves about six inches apart, in rows eight to twelve inches apart.

• Let the plants grow all winter, spring and into summer. Some attention to weeding, irrigation, and an occasional fertilizer feeding (in late winter/early spring) is all that is required.

• A clump of shoots will grow about a foot tall. Irrigate until tops begin to brown, and then withhold water to let the plant dry naturally.

• One indication to start harvesting is when the leaves fall over and about half of the lower leaves turn brown. You can also just dig up a few bulbs and cut them in half; if the cloves fill the skins, then the bulbs are ready to harvest.

• Use a garden fork to lift the plants out of the ground with shoots and bulbs attached. Knock off clumps of dirt and then let the plants air dry for a few weeks. The cloves should be firm to the touch. After curing, the shoots can be cut a little above the bulb and the roots can be trimmed close to the bulb base.

Filaree Farm recommends topping your garlic planting bed with a few inches of mulch, perhaps leaves or chopped up straw. Not only does the mulch feed the soil and suppress weeds, that mulch might dissuade four footed diggers. One home remedy I use to deter the neighborhood cats is six inch mesh concrete reinforcement wire, suspended about an inch above the surface. Cats dislike this prowling obstacle on raised garden beds.

Filaree Farm also recommends not storing your garlic bulbs in the refrigerator. The air is too humid, and the garlic will begin to sprout. Ideal storage conditions for garlic are 55-65 degrees and 45%-60% humidity.

Looking for an easy recipe that contains lots of garlic?

This low-salt, slow cooker recipe contains 2/3 of a cup of garlic, and is perfect for serving at casual get-togethers or as a main dish on a cold winter night. To make it vegetarian, just leave out the chicken!

Super Bowl of Chicken Salsa Chili

14 oz. boneless, skinless, chicken: diced into 1" cubes

5 oz. diced onions

5 oz. diced red/green peppers

2/3 Cup finely chopped garlic or elephant garlic

10 oz diced tomatoes

15 oz can of low salt garbanzo beans

15 oz can of low salt black beans

15 oz can of no salt added kidney beans

16 oz cherry tomatoes

28 oz. tomato puree

1 cup unsalted chicken or vegetable broth

2 TBS fresh cilantro

1 TBS chili powder

1 tsp cayenne pepper

1 TBS Mrs. Dash garlic & herb seasoning

fresh lime juice to taste

Combine all ingredients in a slow cooker.

Cook on low, 6-8 hours

Makes 8 servings

Nutrition for 1 serving of Super Bowl of Chicken Salsa Chili:

Thank you for listening to the Garden Basics with Farmer Fred podcast! It’s available wherever you get your podcasts. Please share it with your garden friends.

As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases from some of the underlined links in the newsletter. This is how I am trying to keep this a free newsletter. And as long as you buy whatever you want from Amazon using any of those links to get into the Amazon site, I get a few pennies. Thank you.

Fred Hoffman is also a University of California Cooperative Extension Master Gardener in Sacramento County.

This is a public episode. If you'd like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit gardenbasics.substack.com/subscribe

Even though it is mid-November, many gardeners in milder areas of the country may still be harvesting tomatoes. What to do with those remaining, healthy tomatoes? Can or freeze them!

Roasted tomatoes add so much more tomato flavor to any recipe you prepare that calls for tomatoes (such as pasta sauce, whole tomatoes or diced tomatoes). And it's an easy way to preserve the harvest for use throughout the year, either canned or frozen.

To preserve the most flavor, roast them at a low temperature for a long period of time. Convection ovens, which distribute the heat more equally, are great for this. If you don't have a convection oven, be sure to turn the tomatoes once at the midpoint of the roasting process.Our recipe:• Cut fresh tomatoes into equally thick slices, about a quarter-inch to a half-inch thick (no peeling necessary!). Cherry tomatoes can be cut in half.• Place cut tomatoes in a single layer on a cookie sheet lined with parchment paper. • Drizzle with olive oil.• Bake for 90 minutes to two hours at 300 degrees (250 if your convection oven goes that low). If roasting on two trays simultaneously on upper and lower racks, switch them half way through. Check for doneness at 90 minutes; go longer if necessary.• The tomatoes will shrink, but should still look somewhat meaty.• Freeze in small batches or can them (hot water processing) in pint or quart jars.

*There are naturally occurring sugars in tomatoes. In this recipe, there are no added sugars.

Thank you for listening to the Garden Basics with Farmer Fred podcast! It’s available wherever you get your podcasts. Please share it with your garden friends.

As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases from some of the underlined links in the newsletter. This is how I am trying to keep this a free newsletter. And as long as you buy whatever you want from Amazon using any of those links to get into the Amazon site, I get a few pennies. Thank you.

Thanks for Subscribing and Spreading the Word About the Beyond the Basics: The Garden Basics with Farmer Fred newsletter, I appreciate your support. 

Fred Hoffman is also a University of California Cooperative Extension Master Gardener in Sacramento County.

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Today’s Podcast: Consulting Arborist Michael Santos tells us about online resources for homeowners to get more information about the trees in their yard.

How to (Possibly) Thwart Tree Damage Before a Storm

During or after a particularly violent fall or winter wind/rain/snow storm, TV news crews rush to the most photogenic damage during these rare occasions: downed trees, usually leaning against a house or crushing a car.

Without the correct care of the trees on your property, winter storms and trees will not get along. Most susceptible are the trees that keep their leaves year round, such as eucalyptus and camphor, along with the conifer family: pines, firs, redwoods and cedars. All that mass of greenery acts as a sail in a heavy wind, bending trees at ridiculous angles. Another cause of winter tree failure is crown rot, which despite its name, refers to the deterioration of the root system near the base of the tree. Combine that with a couple of inches of rain onto already saturated soils, and you have tree roots heaving towards the surface, leading to these pictures popping up on the TV news:

   If this is the view from your window, the day after a major rain and wind storm is not necessarily the best day for the gardener to tackle the hazardous task of cleaning up the remnants of trees, shrubs and other plants that took a beating. If wind and rain is still in the forecast, the prevalence of slippery conditions and the chance of more falling debris should limit your cleaning chores to dragging broken branches away from the scene of the crime. It is not a good day to be climbing ladders or scrambling into trees while balancing a chain saw. Leave that to the professionals.

Signs of Potential Tree Failure

Arborists offer this good piece of advice for those surveying the fallen aftermath of a major storm: Limb failure is largely a product of poor tree maintenance over time. Take care of your trees, or they may take care of themselves in ways you won't appreciate.     According to the University of California publication, "Inspect Your Landscape Trees for Hazards", a nice day in autumn (or winter, spring or summer, for that matter) is the time to take an inventory of any possible future tree damage before you, your house or your car becomes the next victim of a falling tree or branch.

Leaning Trees: Are your trees not as upright as the result of recent heavy winds? Can you see newly upheaved roots or soil around those trees? Then, immediate action is required: call in a professional, certified, bonded and insured arborist to do an onsite inspection and offer a solution (find one near you at treesaregood.org). Newly leaning trees are an imminent hazard. If you have a tree that has leaned for a number of years, that tree can still be a hazard during wet, windy weather. Taking periodic photographs can help you determine if a greater lean is developing. 

Multiple Trunked Trees: This co-dominant condition can result in breakage of major tree parts during storms. Usually, these trunks are weakly attached. Inspect the point where the two trunks meet; if you see splitting beginning, call in an arborist.

Weakly Attached Branches: Trees with many branches arising from the same point on the trunk are prone to breaking during wind storms. Prune out any split branches. Thin out multiple branches.

Hanging or Broken Branches: If you see storm damaged branches hanging from the tree, remove them as soon as possible. This includes removing any completely broken branches that may be resting elsewhere in the tree's canopy.

Cracks in Trunks and Branches: Measure the depth of any cracks with a ruler. If those cracks are more than three inches deep, call in an arborist to determine the best course of action.

Dead Branches/Trees: Branches or entire trees that have completely died are very likely to come tumbling down in a storm. Dead branches are most noticeable in the summer when the tree is in full leaf.

Cavities and Decay: Large, open pockets where branches meet the trunk, or at the base of the trunk, can mean big trouble. The presence of mushrooms on the bark or on exposed roots may indicate wood decay. Call in an arborist.

The Arbor Day Foundation website has this guide to proper pruning techniques. Also: Tips for Hiring an Arborist. Choose the right pruning equipment for shrubs and trees:

Hand Shears for branches less than the thickness of your little finger.

Loppers for branches less than the thickness of your thumb.

Pruning saws for branches greater than the thickness of your thumb.

Want to avoid damaging your trees while pruning? Here’s an illustrated guide for pruning large branches (which are branches that are greater than the thickness of your thumb):

The three-cut method

When pruning larger branches, use the three-cut method to prevent the falling branch from stripping the bark, below the cut.

CUT ONE: Make a cut halfway through the underside of the branch to be removed. Position the cut about one foot out from the branch collar. That’s where the branch attaches to the trunk.

CUT TWO: saw through the top of the branch, about two inches further out from cut one. The branch should give way about halfway through this cut, with the undercut portion preventing any stripping damage to the tree along the stem.

CUT THREE: This is the cleanup cut. Saw through the remaining branch, being sure to leave the branch collar. The branch collar usually extends out less than an inch from the trunk.

Thank you for listening to the Garden Basics with Farmer Fred podcast! It’s available wherever you get your podcasts. Please share it with your garden friends.

As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases from some of the underlined links in the newsletter. This is how I am trying to keep this a free newsletter. And as long as you buy whatever you want from Amazon using any of those links to get into the Amazon site, I get a few pennies. Thank you.

Thanks for Subscribing and Spreading the Word About the Beyond the Basics: The Garden Basics with Farmer Fred newsletter.

I appreciate your support. 

Fred Hoffman is also a University of California Cooperative Extension Master Gardener in Sacramento County.

This is a public episode. If you'd like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit gardenbasics.substack.com/subscribe

Does Foliar Feeding Plants Really Work?

Are there benefits to spraying a water soluble fertilizer to the leaves of plants? Can leaves absorb nutrients?

If a gardener were to believe what they read on Wikipedia, the answer would be yes. However, one only need to read the warnings associated with that article, which state repeatedly, “Citation Needed” and “This section needs additional citations for verification”.

The study touting the use of foliar feeding that is cited in that Wikipedia post goes to a broken link. Not a good sign.

The University of Missouri offers these warnings about foliar feeding:

The mode-of-entry of essential elements into the leaves when applied as a foliar fertilizer still is under debate. Conventional theory is that foliar feeding is effective because plants can take in essential minerals in liquid form through pores in their leaf cuticle called stomata. The latter serve as points-of-entry for air laden with carbon dioxide used by the plant during photosynthesis.

Research has revealed, however, nutrients are more likely to be taken in through the leaf cuticle. The latter contains a pathway of extremely minute pores (< 1 nm in diameter) with a density of about ten billion pores per cm3 of leaf surface area. These micro-pores are lined with negative charges which tend to attract (when in ionic form) positively charged elements such as calcium (Ca++), magnesium (Mg++), potassium (K+), ammonium-form nitrogen (NH+), etc. Movement through the cuticle is dependent upon a number of factors including, nutrient concentration, molecule size, organic vs. inorganic, etc.

Conversely, negatively charged essential elements in ionic form such as phosphorous (HPO4-2), sulfur (SO4-2) and nitrate-form nitrogen (NO3-1) find leaf entry through the cuticle more challenging. Whereas opposite charges attract, like charges repel one another.

As alluded to above, another consideration when foliar feeding is the fate of the nutrients after they enter the leaf. Smaller molecules or those with a lesser positive charge are more readily transported in the vascular system where they are translocated to other parts of the plant. Examples of the latter include ammonium (NH+), potassium (K+) and urea (NH2CONH2).

On the other hand, larger molecules and ions with greater positive charges tend to stay fairly close to their point-of-entry as they adhere to the negatively-charged cell walls. Examples of fairly tightly held (immobile) nutrients include calcium (Ca++), iron (Fe++), manganese (Mn++), zinc (Zn++), and copper (Cu++).

Therefore, when applied as foliar fertilizers, elements with strong positive charges such as calcium do not move much upon entering the leaf. Accordingly, elements such as phosphorous which are negatively charged are slow to enter the leaf. Both are relatively immobile after gaining entry.

Kinda blows a hole into that long-held habit of spraying calcium on the leaves of a tomato plant to cure blossom end rot. And there’s plenty more holes in that habit, as well.

However - and Debbie Flower points this out in the podcast - foliar feeding may work to solve a very particular cosmetic issue if there is a certain micronutrient deficiency. For example, a shortage of iron availability, causing a yellowing pattern in citrus leaves.

And then, as Debbie says, foliar feeding of iron only works on that particular leaf; it doesn’t solve the problem for the entire plant. To cure a plant of a nutrient shortage, FEED THE SOIL.

Thank you for listening to the Garden Basics with Farmer Fred podcast! It’s available wherever you get your podcasts. Please share it with your garden friends.

As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases from some of the underlined links in the newsletter. This is how I am trying to keep this a free newsletter. And as long as you buy whatever you want from Amazon using any of those links to get into the Amazon site, I get a few pennies. Thank you.

Thanks for Subscribing and Spreading the Word About the Beyond the Basics: The Garden Basics with Farmer Fred newsletter, I appreciate your support. 

Fred Hoffman is also a University of California Cooperative Extension Master Gardener in Sacramento County.

This is a public episode. If you'd like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit gardenbasics.substack.com/subscribe

CURRIED PUMPKIN SOUP (serves 6-8)

by Andi Macdonald, Chef and Sacramento County Master Gardener

INGREDIENTS

* 2 tablespoons olive oil

* 1 cup diced onions

* 1/2 cup diced carrots

* 1/2 cup diced celery

* 1 tsp minced garlic

* 1/2 cup dry white wine (optional)

* 6 cups vegetable stock

* Salt to taste

* 1/2 tsp freshly ground black pepper

* 1/4 cup curry paste* (or more, to taste)

* 4 cups pumpkin puree**

* 1 can coconut milk (12-13 ounces)

* Chopped parsley for garnish

* Toasted pumpkin seeds for garnish.

INSTRUCTIONS

* Heat the olive oil in a soup pot. Saute onion, carrots, and celery until soft. Add garlic and sauce one minute more. Add wine (optional). Boil down until almost evaporated. Be careful not to scorch the vegetables.

* Add stock, pepper, curry paste, and pumpkin. Stir thoroughly to combine. Bring to a boil, immediately reduce heat to low, and simmer for 30 minutes. Add more liquid (stock or water) if soup seems to thick.

* Puree the soup in small batches using a food processor or blender. You can either do this hot, being careful with hot liquid in a blender, or if time allows, let cool and then blend. Depending on how velvety you want the texture, you can pour the soup through a sieve after blending.

* Return to pan and stir in coconut milk. Optional: add salt to suit your taste. Bring the soup to the brink of a boil. Reduce heat to low, and simmer for another 30 minutes. Taste again and adjust for salt and pepper. Pour into soup bowls and garnish with fresh parsley and pumpkin seeds.

* Curry paste is available in many grocery stores in the specialty Asian sections. It can also be ordered online. Heat (spiciness) can vary, so take a taste before adding to the soup. You can always add more. Curry powder can be used instead of the paste. Start with a smaller amount and add more to taste.

** Pumpkin puree can be canned or scraped from a roasted pumpkin (no seeds!). If you make your own, the flavor is better if a variety of winter squashes are used. For this recipe, I combine roasted butternut, kabocha, and pie pumpkins. I have found that the pumpkins sold as pie pumpkins aren’t as flavorful as a combination of squashes. They also tend to be more watery than other winter squashes. A note - if you make your own pumpkin pies, try a combination of winter squashes, as well.

The best pumpkins for soup?

Andi stresses that to make pumpkin soup as appealing as possible, use several different winter squashes in the puree. Her recipe uses a pumpkin, Butternut Squash and Kabocha squash.

Johnny’s Selected Seed website mentions many more tasty winter squashes worth trying, including Delicata, Acorn, Hubbard, and Buttercup.

In the podcast, for her pumpkin, Andi mentions purchasing a 7 or 8-inch pumpkin from the grocery store, with the word “Sweet” in its name. This website lists their favorite pumpkins for puree. One of them: Early Sweet Sugar Pie, an heirloom variety carried by Burpee Seeds. Their description: “The fine orange flesh of this favorite is the best for rich pumpkin pies. Easy to handle, at only 6-7 lb. each.”

Seed company Botanical Interests says this about another with a similar name (perhaps it’s the same?), Sugar Pie, an heirloom: “Since the 1800s, 'Sugar Pie' has been the standard for making terrific pies, soups, muffins, and casseroles. Small, 6"-7" fruits are also good for carving decor-size jack o'lanterns. Stores for months. Also called 'New England' pumpkin.”

Johnny’s Selected Seeds has an excellent page on choosing, growing, harvesting and storing the best winter squash varieties for eating. They offer these tips on harvesting and storing:

* Wait 50–55 days after pollination or fruit set to harvest.

* When fruits are ready for harvest, clip them from the vines and handle carefully.

* Cure the fruits by exposing them to sun in the field for 5–7 days; or, if there is a threat of hard frost, cure the fruits inside for 5–7 days at 80–85°F/27–29°C with good air ventilation. The curing process will improve storage potential by toughening the skin, and it can speed up the necessary post-harvest storage interval needed by some types for optimal quality.

* After curing, store fruits at 50–60°F/10–15°C, with 50–70% relative humidity and good ventilation. Repeated exposure to temperatures below 50°F/10°C may cause chilling damage.

* Sort fruits on a regular basis to remove any rotten fruits.

Thank you for listening to the Garden Basics with Farmer Fred podcast! It’s available wherever you get your podcasts. Please share it with your garden friends.

As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases from some of the underlined links in the newsletter. This is how I am trying to keep this a free newsletter. And as long as you buy whatever you want from Amazon using any of those links to get into the Amazon site, I get a few pennies. Thank you.

Thanks for Subscribing and Spreading the Word About the Beyond the Basics: The Garden Basics with Farmer Fred newsletter, I appreciate your support. 

Fred Hoffman is also a University of California Cooperative Extension Master Gardener in Sacramento County.

This is a public episode. If you'd like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit gardenbasics.substack.com/subscribe

Here in Northern California, sweet peppers continue to ripen on the plants in October, turning rich shades of red, purple, and yellow. The result? Peppers that are sweeter. And probably more peppers than you know what to do with. We spend this time of year making several batches of sweet red pepper relish, using a recipe we found in an old copy of Sunset's Home Canning book.

It's delicious on many dishes, including as a topping for hot dogs and hamburgers...or just dolloped onto a cracker. It's the one homemade holiday gift that we distribute each December that our friends and family actually request!

Sweet Red Pepper Relish Recipe:

6 pounds of sweet red peppers, seeded and cut into one-inch squares (we throw in a few Anaheim peppers for a touch of heat). Use your favorite blend of sweet and hot peppers!

3 pounds onions, cut into one-inch chunks

4 cups distilled white vinegar

3 cups sugar

2 Tbs canning salt or noniodized table salt

1 Tbs mustard seeds

Chop the peppers and onions, then put in a food processor or food chopper with a medium blade. 

Pour chopped peppers and onions into a heavy-bottomed, 8-10 quart stainless steel or unchipped enamel pan. 

Mix in the vinegar, sugar, salt and mustard seed.

Bring to a boil over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally.

Reduce heat to medium-low and let it boil gently, uncovered.

Stir often to prevent sticking.

Cook about 50 minutes, until relish is thickened but still juicy.

Makes about 7 pints.

A quarter-cup serving has 81 calories, 1 g protein, 16 g carbohydrates, 2 g total fat, 0 mg cholesterol, 43 g sugar, 3 mg sodium

Storage:

Unprocessed: Ladle into pint jars or refrigerator containers, leaving a half-inch head space. Apply lids, let cool, then refrigerate. Refrigerator life: 1 month.

or

Processed: Ladle hot relish into clean, hot pint jars, leaving a half-inch headspace.

Run a narrow nonmetallic spatula between relish and jar sides to release air bubbles.

Wipe rims and threads clean. Top with hot lids, then firmly screw on bands.

Process in boiling water canner for 15 minutes. Shelf life: up to 1 year.

Your Harvest to Better Health Begins at Dave Wilson Nursery!

SOME OF OUR FAVORITE SWEET PEPPERS

Flamingo

Flamingo, from Harris Seed Company, is truely unique with fruit that mature from a light yellow to pinkish-orange, then to red. This sweet bell pepper has concentrated fruit set and can produce high yields. Similar to Gypsy, Flamingo performs well in most pepper growing areas and its earliness makes it a stand-out in the northern U.S. and Canada. Wonderful color change through the growing season. OK taste. Good grilled.

Nu Mex Joe E. Parker

6 to 7-inch thick-fleshed peppers turn from green to red and are relatively mild to medium in flavor. Ripens earlier than most other peppers of its type. 65 days." The overall winner of the Farmer Fred Pepper Party Taste Tests. Great in chili!. We grow this every year, great in salsas and for homemade nachos.

  Giant Marconi

72 days. Large, tapered, elongated fruits grow 8" by 3", with a sweet, smoky flavor that's equally delectable when fruits are eaten green or red, fresh or grilled. Widely adaptable, it produces larger than normal crops just about anywhere. “Withstands severe weather with excellent disease resistance." This 2001 AAS Award Winner has (in my opinion) more flavor than the Giant Aconcagua.

Tequila

Peppers begin as lavender and stay that color for a long time before fading to a lovely orange, then finally red. Strong plants are tobacco mosaic virus resistant and tolerant to blossom end rot. 72 days. The Farmer Fred Absolute Favorite Sweet Pepper!

Anaheim

70 days. “Also know as the 'New Mexican Chile', this moderately pungent fruit is deep green, but turns red at full maturity. Excellent for canning, freezing or drying. 75 days." A good choice for nachos for the weak of heart...and stomach.

Jimmy Nardello

These bright green and red sweet peppers fry beautifully. Originally from the Basilicata region of south Italy. The plants are 24" tall, and festooned with 10-12" peppers. One of my favorites for grilling.

Corno di Toro Yellow

Italian 'bull's horn' colorful sweet peppers are 8 to 10 inches long and curved like a bull's horn. Ripen to deep red or bright yellow and are delicious fresh in salads, but more often are sauted or grilled. Prolific tall plants. 68 days. Gorgeous on the grill, and in salads, too.

Thank you for listening to the Garden Basics with Farmer Fred podcast! It’s available wherever you get your podcasts. Please share it with your garden friends.

As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases from some of the underlined links in the newsletter. This is how I am trying to keep this a free newsletter. And as long as you buy whatever you want from Amazon using any of those links to get into the Amazon site, I get a few pennies. Thank you.

Thanks for Subscribing and Spreading the Word About the Beyond the Basics: The Garden Basics with Farmer Fred newsletter, I appreciate your support. 

Fred Hoffman is also a University of California Cooperative Extension Master Gardener in Sacramento County.

This is a public episode. If you'd like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit gardenbasics.substack.com/subscribe