Coldfear

We all view and react to risk in different ways. I sit down with friends Dan Vastayn, Chris Guyer, and Christian Baumeister to discuss how we deal with Risk. I like to view Risk Tolerance like a bank account, It constantly moves up and down depending on what is going on in your life.  After this conversation, it became obvious to me that we all manage and react to risk in different ways. What works for me may not work for you. We have to find our own path and willingness to engage in risk. But the most dangerous risk tolerance is the one attached to running away from something in your life. Is risk your drug?  

No matter where you are at in your climbing career this conversation will resonate with you. Doug Shepherd has been a long-time friend, mentor, and climbing partner. He was always my first call for taking on big objectives in the mountains. I learned a ton from Doug about climbing when I needed his mentorship the most. Doug was always the most comfortable committed on a big face in the mountains. Doug made a name for himself scratching around Rocky Mountain National Park in the early 2000s while going to school and doing his Postdoc.  After losing several close friends to the mountains, Doug decided to take a pause to evaluate his relationship with climbing. After nearly 3 years of not climbing he made a trip to visit me to throw his tools and sink his toes into the ice. We talk about how it feels to be back climbing and what he learned from taking a step back from his climbing career.       

I sit down with Joe Josephson who has more than likely written an ice climbing guidebook that you have had in your hands or want in your hands.  He started ice climbing in the late 1980s and did the first ascent of Sea Of Vapors and Terminator on the Trophy Wall in Canada. He shares some great stories including taking a 60-foot ice whipper for a TV commercial and a close call while soloing the Grand Central Coulior on Mount Kitchener. Sit down and enjoy the stories and history he has to share! 

NOTE: There is a slight echo in the recording. Sorry still figuring this out! 

Jack Tackle's climbing first ascents spread around the world. His name is sketched into Alpine history as one of the legends pushing fast and light ascents in the alpine before gear was even light. He is most well-known for his Alaska adventures and incredible storytelling. In this episode, I tap into his 40+ years of climbing knowledge. How is Jack still alive after all that he has done? He shares what he has learned in those years and talks about why he chose to pursue a professional career and a climbing career. Don't miss the story of his partner cutting himself from the rope while hanging in space below him...

Stories of epics and rescues in the mountains. Doug Shepherd and I have climbed together for many years. He and I sit down to talk about some of our more "memorable" experiences. 

Scott Johnston has been the man behind the scenes choreographing training for some of climbing's and running's most elite athletes including Kilian Jornet, Alex Honnold and Steve House. You may not recognize his name but you more than likely recognize his books, Training For The New Alpinism and  Training For The Uphill Athlete. Until recently, he was a co-owner of Uphill Athlete and now owns Evoke Endurance. We dive into the breakup of Uphill Athlete,  the birth of Evoke Endurance, and Scott shares his training framework and lessons from his decades of training experience. This is a long one, but super informative for any athlete looking to elevate their fitness. 

The Slovak Direct is one of the most notable prized routes in the Alaska Range on North Americas tallest peak, Denali 20,300ft. This 9,000 foot face is one alpine climbers dream of. In this episode I sit down with Sam Hennesey, Michael Gardner and Rob Smith after their ground breaking Nascar ascent of the Slovak Direct in 17 Hours and 10 minutes. We dive into their strategy and how they set themselves up physically and mentally execute the climb. 

Partner Dynamics and your mental state while climbing typically change partner to partner. After a recent First Ascent mission with Dan Vastyan and Christian Baumeister we dive into what was going on in their head when things got over their head!  Chris Guyer also joins in the conversation.  

Ryan Vachon and I sit down and talk about how we got started climbing and many of the bad decisions that were made. Ryan talks about his first rope being a clothesline and I talk about my 2 hour first ice lead on the Rigid Designator.