Scott Johnston has been the man behind the scenes choreographing training for some of climbing's and running's most elite athletes including Kilian Jornet, Alex Honnold and Steve House. You may not recognize his name but you more than likely recognize his books, Training For The New Alpinism and  Training For The Uphill Athlete. Until recently, he was a co-owner of Uphill Athlete and now owns Evoke Endurance. We dive into the breakup of Uphill Athlete,  the birth of Evoke Endurance, and Scott shares his training framework and lessons from his decades of training experience. This is a long one, but super informative for any athlete looking to elevate their fitness. 

The Slovak Direct is one of the most notable prized routes in the Alaska Range on North Americas tallest peak, Denali 20,300ft. This 9,000 foot face is one alpine climbers dream of. In this episode I sit down with Sam Hennesey, Michael Gardner and Rob Smith after their ground breaking Nascar ascent of the Slovak Direct in 17 Hours and 10 minutes. We dive into their strategy and how they set themselves up physically and mentally execute the climb. 

Partner Dynamics and your mental state while climbing typically change partner to partner. After a recent First Ascent mission with Dan Vastyan and Christian Baumeister we dive into what was going on in their head when things got over their head!  Chris Guyer also joins in the conversation.  

Ryan Vachon and I sit down and talk about how we got started climbing and many of the bad decisions that were made. Ryan talks about his first rope being a clothesline and I talk about my 2 hour first ice lead on the Rigid Designator.