Conscious Chatter

In episode 195, Kestrel welcomes Umberto De Marco, the founder of sustainable footwear brand, YATAY, to the show. In addition to his work building sneaker brand YATAY, Umberto is the president of eco-leather giant and family business Coronet.

"What I've been doing since I started working in the family company — I had a mission: trying to change a material that has always been just a simple, cheap alternative of leather — trying to evolve this material in a more sustainable and durable one." -Umberto de Marco, Founder of YATAY

On this week's show, Umberto shares more on how he grew up in the leather alternatives industry, with his father being a pioneer in 'eco-leathers'. When he joined the family business, Umberto was focused on finding more sustainable alternatives to the poly-based leathers they were offering.

Also, Umberto shares more on his own company YATAY, and how they are working to further close the loop in their manufacturing, so eventually, every component of the shoe can be recycled and put back into future shoes.

Being that YATAY and Coronet are based in Milan, Italy, Umberto shares more on how COVID-19 has impacted his work and what he thinks lies ahead for the fashion industry-at-large.

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• 70% of the electricity used for the production at Coronet's facilities comes from solar panels.

• At Coronet, they started an incentive program for their workers, where all the money that is saved from their efforts in reducing waste in the manufacturing process is given back to the workers at the end of each year.

• YATAY's shoe box converts into a backgammon board game, as a way to reduce the waste that comes with packaging. Also, they include a little bag made from excess bio-based leather, complete with checkers inside.

• YATAY Forest, on the back of each pair of shoes, there is a code — when a shopper enters it on the website, they can select what type of tree they'd like to plant in YATAY's "forest" in Kenya, and then they can monitor their tree and stay up to date on how it's growing and how much CO2 it absorbs. Also, the shopper will be advised on when their tree has absorbed enough CO2 to offset the production of their shoes.

• More on the materials in YATAY's shoes >

In episode 194, Kestrel welcomes Shahidha Bari, author of Dressed: A Philosophy Of Clothes, to the show. A Professor of Fashion Cultures and Histories at the London College of Fashion and a fellow of the Forum for European Philosophy at London School of Economics, Shahidha is dedicated to contributing a discourse around fashion to the philosophy field.

"I feel like there has to be some sort of intellectual, cultural shift about the way that we regard our clothes— the forms of attention we give them — not just in how we buy, but how we think about them as artifacts: artifacts that have passed through many hands before they come to our own and artifacts that are expressive of our humanity." -Shahidha Bari, Author of Dressed: A Philosophy Of Clothes

On this week's show, Shahidha shares more on her background and how her unique experiences with dressing throughout her childhood along with her synesthesia have influenced the work that she does today.

While Shahidha was writing her book, Dressed: A Philosophy of Clothes, the Rana Plaza disaster happened. According to her, this garment factory tragedy impacted the book was was writing. For Shahidha, she believes there must be some sort of cultural shift in the way that we regard our garments, and that they warrant dignity as well.

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• Synesthesia: when your sensory faculties can get muddled up — Shahidha has a unique way in which her perceptual factors and memories work where she often associates people and words with color and texture

• "So I lived in a world where the way you existed and moved through the world was shaped by your clothes."

• Phenomenology: recording or thinking about the feeling of things, the feeling of existence

• "I think the quintessential experience of womanhood is the failure to be a woman, which is why I'm so interested in the experience of trans women too."

• "There's a kind of dignity that I wanted to give our clothes — I think that the people who make our clothes very often make it in such unhappy circumstances, that they warrant dignity too, and us being able to give our clothes dignity is one way that we start to recognize the kind of dignity we need to extend to the people who make our clothes too."

• "I think there's a lot to be said for being comfortable right now."

• Buy Shahidha's book Dressed: A Philosophy Of Clothes here >

This week's episode is brought to you by Fair Trade USA. Each year, Fair Trade USA honors the people who made our clothes and advocates for safer and more sustainable practices in its 'We Wear Fair Trade' campaign.

Visit https://www.fairtradecertified.org/we-wear-fair-trade to learn about the fair trade difference in fashion and to meet this year's featured activists.

In episode 193, Kestrel welcomes James Bartle, the Founding CEO of Outland Denim, to the show. Outland crafts premium denim jeans designed to bring the worlds of their seamstresses and their customers closer together. They made history as the first-ever denim brand to win the Thomson Reuters Stop Slavery Award in 2020.

"It's like they absorb history — they're kind of like a song where they take you back to a memory and it's for that reason that you don't throw out a beautiful, premium pair of jeans even when they're worn out — you want to leave them in your cupboard because of those memories that are associated with that product. And again, I think that's what gives it so much power in being able to impact people." -James Bartle, Founding CEO of Outland Denim

On this week's show, James shares more on how he went from being a freestyle motorbike rider to building a denim brand, after learning more deeply about the realities of human trafficking.

James also shares that with Outland Denim's model, their seamstresses are trained on all the intricacies to construct a beautiful pair of jeans, so in their manufacturing, their employees actually sew entire garments. Typically in factories, sewers only sew one component of the garment repeatedly.

As James says, "I guess the reason that we don't see that as a viable or sustainable option is that it really does trap her into a much smaller variety of opportunities for her to be able to progress in her career and work life."

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• "I think one of the keys in the success that we've been able to have on a social level is that we recognize that we can't make the change for them — we just need to give them the tools for them to make the changes in their lives themselves."

• "You know — often a brand will have a sustainable collection or a sustainable line — you know, to me that just says you're not a sustainable brand."

• "Sustainable brand Outland Denim feels the Markle effect with a 948% increase in traffic", article on Harper's Bazaar, October 2018

• Outland was able to employ 46 new seamstresses as a result of Meghan Markle wearing their product

• Outland Denim's equity crowdfunding LIVE webinar on April 2nd, 2020 at 9am PST // register here >

• Follow @consciouschatter for more details on the LIVE series launching on The Sustainable Fashion Forum's Instagram next week!

In episode 192, Kestrel welcomes Brian Bushell, the cofounder of By Humankind, to the show. A personal care brand, By Humankind's products are designed to reduce single-use plastic waste from your daily routine.

"We really wanted to be able to make an impact — we wanted to allow our customers to truly reduce their own single-use plastic waste function just by going through their morning routine." -Brian Bushell, Cofounder of By Humankind

On this week's show, Brian shares more on how a scuba diving trip initially inspired him to look further into the global issues surrounding single-use plastic waste.

When he discovered that one third of all plastic waste in landfills comes from a personal care product, he saw a need to build a personal care brand that not only cared about creating clean formulas, but also clean containers.

Brian explains how he started with one idea — to make a natural deodorant — and worked with a chemist to see if he could build a good product. After working on this for six months, and realizing that they could make it happen, he sought out a cofounder and started building By Humankind.

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• 1/3 of all plastic in landfills is from personal care products

• "We're about 13 months in, and we've already figured out that our community has eliminated 11,000 pounds of single-use plastic waste from going into the environment."

• Slow Factory's post about reduction of emissions over China since COVID-19

• Aja Barber's Instagram post "What About The Garment Workers?", mentioned in the intro

In episode 191, Kestrel welcomes Kimberley Smith, the Chief Supply Chain Officer at Everlane, to the show. Known for their messaging around radical transparency, Everlane prides themselves on building timeless products that are designed to last.

"We can be better — I mean we're not perfect in any way. It doesn't happen overnight, and I think that's something that — our customer, just be patient, but we are listening … we really admire them, and we really want their feedback. And so, I think that that's important for them to continue to challenge us."

On this week's show, Kim shares more on her background, and how she found her way into the sustainable fashion world. She also walks us through more on how Everlane's product has evolved over the years, starting with a focus on natural materials, and now evolving toward more sustainable materials and solutions.

Kestrel asks Kim to respond to a petition that nonprofit Remake authored on Change.org, called "Ask Everlane To Share Worker Conditions (And Stop Greenwashing)." Kim responds by explaining more of what Everlane has been doing behind the scenes, how they need to be sharing more information with their shoppers, and how their new sustainability page will help answer some of these questions.

Also, Kim reveals the details on Everlane's recent sustainability commitments — no new plastic by 2021 and 100% certified organic cotton by 2023.

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• "I think if you don't have visibility in your supply chain, it's hard to make change."

• Everlane's new Sustainability page >

• ReNew by Everlane, made from recycled plastic bottles

• ReCashmere by Everlane, made from recycled cashmere and wool

• ReCotton by Everlane, made from recycled cotton

• Tread by Everlane, low-impact sneakers, working toward closing their loop with these

• "Ask Everlane To Share Worker Conditions (And Stop Greenwashing)" — petition on Change.org started by nonprofit Remake, that Kestrel asks Kim to respond to

• Everlane's Vendor Code of Conduct

• Everlane's Organic Commitment: to change all of their cotton to organic by 2023

This week's episode is brought to you by United By Blue, a sustainable lifestyle brand from Philadelphia that makes men's and women's apparel, bags, and accessories.

Use CHATTER30 for 30% off your order at United By Blue >

In episode 190, Kestrel welcomes Erin Flynn, the CEO of Cladwell, to the show. A personal styling app, Cladwell allows users to add in their clothes (without taking photos) and it will generate daily outfits personalized for their weather.

"I would go to my closet and say the same thing which is, I have too many clothes and nothing to wear, which was ridiculous because I had over 450 items hanging in my closet — so, there was no reason that I should have nothing to wear." -Erin Flynn, CEO of Cladwell

On this week's show, Erin shares more on how the financial crisis got her originally into fashion blogging and entrepreneurship. Also, she explains how she first got connected with Cladwell, and eventually decided to purchase it to have more autonomy over the gradual growth of the company.

Kestrel and Erin talk a lot about personal style and finding ways to appreciate the clothes we already have. For Erin, she believes that if you don't understand your personal style, it's difficult to build a closet that you love.

Also, Erin walks us through more on how the Cladwell app works, and the ways it can help you get dressed every day, get in tune with your personal style, and find ways to utilize the pieces in your closet.

Kestrel asks Erin to explore the idea of behavior change, and ways in which Cladwell is successfully challenging people to shift their habits to a less is more approach.

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• "I was in this endless cycle of shopping, thinking that that would solve my style problem."

• "I really believe that everyone has kind of their own unique, personal style, but I also believe that most people don't know what they like. And so, it's really hard to build a closet you love when you don't know what you like."

• "We were originally investor-backed … we ultimately ended up buying the company, and the whole goal now is to make it a sustainable and profitable company really driven by our values and our mission."

• "It's really about making the most of your closet, so we're trying to help you love and wear everything you own."

• The app shares this stat: the average person only wears 20% of their closet. The average Cladwell user wears 65% of their closet, and the app can help you track how much of your closet you're actually wearing.

• Subscribe to Black Sustainability newsletter by Dominique Drakeford (mentioned in intro)

In episode 189, Kestrel welcomes Clarenda "Farmer Cee" Stanley, a fifth generation farmer, to the show. In addition to being the CEO of Green Heffa Farms, a medicinal plant and hemp farm in Liberty, North Carolina, Cee is also a senior principal gifts officer at The Nature Conservancy's World Office.

"We hustle, and the reason for that is being a black-owned farm, a black woman-owned farm — I mean, you gotta look at the numbers: 96% of all private farm land is white-owned — that leaves 4% for everybody else." -Farmer Cee, CEO of Green Heffa Farms

On this week's show, Cee shares more on what led her eventually back to farming, after having grown up on a farm as a child. She also highlights more on the extreme discrepancy that still exists within agriculture today, and how 96% of all private farm land is white-owned. For Cee, beyond farming, it's also important for her to provide education to black women and women of color who are interested in learning more about growing.

Kestrel asks Cee to outline more on what regenerative agriculture means to Green Heffa Farms. For Cee, she's currently exploring using ecological consciousness instead as she believes regenerative agriculture can be another "club for exclusivity".

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• Green Heffa Farms 4 Es: economic empowerment, equity, education and the environment

• "How Racism Has Shaped The American Farming Landscape" in the Eater, article Kestrel mentioned

• Regenerative agriculture: implementing practices that are going to improve the outcomes for your soils health, enrich your soil, prevent erosion, increase biodiversity onto the land, improve the ecosystem and the watersheds — the goal is to capture carbon in the soil

• "Even though 80% of registered producers or farmers are considered to be small farms, I think they put out less than 20% of all total commodities sold — it might even be lower than that."

• "How do we make regenerative agriculture so that the small farmer can even afford to do it? It's way cheaper to grow dirty."

• "I say ecological consciousness because understanding sometimes change has to happen gradually, understanding that regenerative agriculture can be another club for exclusivity because as someone who works for a large environmental organization, I am committed to taking good care of the soil, increasing biodiversity, doing my part as far as carbon. You know — I can't pay for eco-friendly inks right now on my labels or go completely no-till, so there's definitely some cost prohibition, but I can make some steps and find out information and share that information, and that's what I try to do."

• Ultimate vision for Green Heffa Farms, showcased in these 3D renderings

• Gaia Herbs, one of Cee's business idols

• "Inside the Secret World of Vintage Fashion Scouting" on The Business Of Fashion, article Kestrel mentioned in the intro

In episode 188, Kestrel welcomes Adriana Galijasevic, the Denim and Sustainability Expert at G-Star RAW, back to the show, alongside Sofie Schop, G-Star RAW's Sustainability Director. Less than 2 years since the last time G-Star RAW came on the show, this conversation provides an opportunity to check in on the brand and how far they've come with their sustainability goals.

"It's a journey of continuous improvement, and always looking for the solutions. And we always look at these challenges as actually enablers of new design, rather than looking at them as barriers or obstacles to what we do." -Adriana Galijasevic, Denim + Sustainability Expert at G-Star RAW

On this week's show, Adriana and Sofie share more on G-Star RAW's recently updated denim icons. Basically, they took their iconic styles that have been selling well, and applied their circular principles to these designs. 100% recyclable, these styles have received the highest denim product certification yet issued by the Cradle to Cradle Product Innovation Institute.

Additionally, Kestrel, Adriana and Sofie talk about what G-Star RAW's sustainability goals are, where they are at now, and where they hope to be in the future.

Below is a breakdown of G-Star RAW's sustainable material and sustainable cotton usage over the years. Their goal by the end of 2020 is to have 100% sustainable cotton and 90% sustainable material.

Sustainable material 2016 – 30% 2017 – 57.30% 2018 – 74% 2019 – 86% 2020 – 90%

Sustainable cotton 2017 – 70% 2018 – 89% 2019 – 97% 2020 – 100%

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• G-Star RAW unveiled the world's first Cradle to Cradle certified gold stretch denim fabric in October 2019

• Roica, the stretch fiber used in G-Star RAW's Cradle to Cradle Certified Gold stretch denim fabric

• The new icons were made with the collaboration of 15 partners, and the full products are Cradle to Cradle Certified Gold

• "Cradle To Cradle certification is the most rigorous because it looks at the design from five different perspectives — the material health, water stewardship, social fairness, material utilization, and reuse of renewable energies."

• Saitex, G-Star RAW's sustainable manufacturing partner

• RAW Responsibility, details on G-Star RAW's sustainability approach

*This week's episode is brought to you by G-Star RAW.

In episode 187, Kestrel welcomes Dana Thomas, the author of Fashionopolis: The Price of Fast Fashion and the Future of Clothes, to the show. A regular contributor to The New York Times Style section, Dana has also written for The New York Times Magazine, The New Yorker, The Wall Street Journal, the Financial Times, Vogue, and Harper's Bazaar, among others. She was recently named the editor-at-large for Vogue Business, which is based out of London.

"They're saying from day 1 — no, we're going to start our company with this zero-waste idea, as opposed to trying to change it. And I think that they're the ones that are going to survive and the old dinosaurs who are stuck in their ways — they're going to go down, they're going to go down hard — big and hard." -Dana Thomas, Author of Fashionopolis

On this week's show, Dana shares more on how she got started in the fashion industry working as a model in the 1970s. After leaving modeling to get an education to pursue a career in journalism, Dana found herself back in the fashion industry, working under Nina Hyde at The Washington Post.

Kestrel asks Dana to describe what she tells people when they ask her the question, "what should I wear?". Also, we learn about some of the fashion changemakers that Dana included in her newest book, Fashionopolis.

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• Nina Hyde, former fashion editor of The Washington Post, who Dana worked under

• "And she [Nina Hyde] showed me that covering fashion wasn't about hemlines and heel heights — it was about politics and business."

• France's single-use plastic ban

• "Fashion has a misinformation problem. That's bad for the environment." via Vox

• Some of the individuals featured in Dana's book: + Stella McCartney + Stacy Flynn of Evrnu + Sara Bellos of Stony Creek Colors + Sally Fox of Fox Fibre

• Unwrinkling Roundup, Whitney Bauck of Fashionista's new weekly newsletter

In episode 186, Kestrel welcomes creative consultant, writer, author and photographer Olivia Lopez to the show. Known for her aesthetics-driven Instagram presence and design-travel-and-fashion blog Lust For Life, Olivia is also the founder of Bon Weekender, an art and objects shop featuring vintage sourced from around the world. She also recently published her book "Lust for Los Angeles: A Cultural Guide to LA".

"I'm spending so much more time investing in dance classes and all these other things that just provide a richer experience … I feel like that feels more sustainable than shopping … before, shopping was the ultimate form of entertainment, but you know — after I attain a garment, that's pretty much it." -Olivia Lopez, Founder of Lust For Life + Bon Weekender

On this week's show, Olivia shares more on how she started her blog way back in high school, and how she grew up in a unique era, where digital hadn't yet become the powerhouse that it is today.

Also, Olivia talks about what vintage has meant to her throughout her life, and how her nostalgic nature has always attracted her to secondhand garments.

Kestrel brings up a recent article from Elle.com that questions whether influencers can "help save the planet," and asks Olivia if she finds it challenging to balance her values and brand partnerships as an influencer.

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• "Vintage and The Circular Economy" on The Dossier, article Olivia shared that led Kestrel to want to bring her on the show

• "Can Instagram Influencers Help Save The Planet?" on Elle

• Bon Weekender, Olivia's art and objects shop featuring vintage sourced from around the world

• "Lust for Los Angeles", Olivia's new book