Conscious Chatter

In episode 145, Kestrel welcomes Carly Burson, the founder + CEO of Tribe Alive, to the show. Focused on investing in women globally, Tribe Alive makes sustainable women's apparel and accessories through building artistic collaborations around the world.

"A lot of women are employed through fashion, but the way I view the industry as it is today is that a lot of women are kept in poverty because of fashion." -Carly Burson, Founder + CEO of Tribe Alive

Throughout this chat, Carly shares more insight into what led her to build Tribe Alive, and how the adoption of her daughter was a massive part of shifting the direction of her career.

Additionally, she shares more on how Tribe Alive truly believes that women are the key to eradicating poverty.

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• Causebox, an order from them helped transform Tribe Alive from a side hustle to a main gig

• Nonprofits that Tribe Alive works with: Mi Esperanza in Honduras + Maya Traditions in Guatemala + Haiti Design Co in Haiti

• Tribe Alive's artisan partners are 80% female, and all of their production managers are women

• Cuyana, a brand message Carly loves: "fewer better things"

This week's episode is sponsored by: The Minimalist Wardrobe, a platform that offers a source of ideas and inspiration to help you minimize your wardrobe and make more conscious clothing purchases.

In episode 144, Kestrel welcomes Zinzi Edmundson, the editor + cofounder of Knit Wit Magazine, to the show. A website for fiber freaks, Knit Wit explores everything about fiber arts and their makers.

"Just like cutting out fast fashion and knowing about your materials and the process behind where your clothing is coming from, that's equally as important with buying your materials for crafting." -Zinzi Edmundson, Founder of Knit Wit

Throughout this chat, Zinzi shares more on Knit Wit's recent shift from print to digital, and how listening to her readers was an integral piece of this decision.

Additionally, she shares more with us on which crafts are "all the rage" right now, and how even though there are trends in crafting, makers tend to not ditch the past trends when they find a new one - instead, they just add them to their fiber art arsenal.

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• Sashiko, Mend and Make New, article Kestrel wrote for Knit Wit about Jessica Marquez's new book Make + Mend

• DMC embroidery thread

• Wool and the Gang x DMC Partnership

• What's currently "trending" in the maker scene according to Zinzi? embroidery, needle tufting, rag rugs

• "That is very old vs new media - old media tells you what's what and you're like ok I guess you're the authority - I will do that or I should like that - and then new media can kind of adapt and respond."

In episode 143, Kestrel welcomes Barrett Ward, the founder + CEO of ABLE, to the show. A lifestyle brand, ABLE is focused on ending generational poverty through providing economic opportunity for women.

"We also know that when a woman is empowered and given a job - this is a statistic, it's a fact - that a woman has a far more significant impact in her community than does a man. If you want to have a serious impact on poverty in the world, the fashion world is an extraordinary place to start." -Barrett Ward, Founder of ABLE

In the introduction of this episode, Kestrel shares a bit of context as to what constitutes a living wage, according to The Clean Clothes Campaign.

A living wage is a human right. And as The Clean Clothes Campaign outlines, a living wage should be earned in a standard working week (no more than 48 hours) and allow a garment worker to be able to buy food for themself and their family, pay the rent, pay for healthcare, clothing, transportation and education and have a small amount of savings for when something unexpected happens.

Throughout this chat, Barrett shares more on his #PublishYourWages campaign, and how he believes exposing these numbers is the key to bringing higher accountability and to ensure workers are actually paid living wages.

Barrett also shares how ABLE plans to have nutritional-like labels on all of their garments within the next year, showcasing their lowest wages. For Barrett, the "lowest wages" is really significant, so shoppers can truly understand what they are supporting through their purchases.

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• Less than 2% of women in the global garment supply chain are actually being paid a living wage, highlighted in Fast Company article

• Amazon's minimum wage issues in their fulfillment centers; an example Barrett brings up reminding us of the power consumers really have to influence change

• A hero of Barrett's: Simone Cipriani, the Head of the Ethical Fashion Initiative of the International Trade Centre (ITC)'; Simone oversees the promotion of trade and incubation of creative micro-enterprises within marginalized communities in Africa and Haiti

• ABLE's #PublishYourWages campaign

In episode 142, Kestrel welcomes Holly Staves Olson, a marketing wizard + her cofounder of a new venture called Left Edit, to the show. A new direct-to-consumer womenswear brand for those who don't want to sacrifice ethics for style, Left Edit builds essentials that make an impression.

"I think it's so cool because our relationship always revolved around this entrepreneurial spirit. I think that's where you and I really connected is every time we'd get together, we'd be brainstorming different ideas, and we'd be talking about fashion and we'd be talking about new businesses and how we can make a change." - Holly Stavnes Olson, Cofounder of Left Edit

In this episode, Holly and Kestrel share more on what drew them together as cofounders, and how they ended up finding their way to building Left Edit. They also share more on how incredible the designer community has been in supporting them in the development process and sharing information to help them along the way, from sourcing fabrics and materials to connecting with production partners.

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• Some of the lower impact details + notions Left Edit brought into their designs are: Corozo Nut buttons, GOTS certified dyes, digital printing to reduce water and ink usage, recycled PET zipper tapes, and recycled poly interlining

• Left Edit's fabrics in their first collection: Tencel, Tencel Linen + Cupro

• Cupro is made from reclaimed cotton linter bio-utility waste, by converting it through a closed loop process. Cotton linters are the short fibers that stick to the cotton seeds -- and are typically wasted during cotton production. While its feel is luxurious like silk, Kestrel + Holly share how they love that the fabric is machine washable

• The tenants that help drive Left Edit's brand: Movement, Versatility, Longevity, Quality and Community

• One-of-a-kind print designs, Holly + Kestrel partnered with a print designer who hand painted all of the designs using watercolors (the prints were inspired by west coast and midwest flowers), and then were converted to be printed digitally

• SUPPORT LEFT EDIT ON KICKSTARTER >

In episode 141, Kestrel welcomes Lauren Engelke, a professional sustainable stylist, blogger + the curator of The Minimalist Wardrobe Shop, to the show. A new project, TMW Shop offers a curated collection of quality garments, perfect to help build a minimalist wardrobe.

"I never expected this in a million years, but the major pain point was shopping — and a lot of the clients that I worked with had actually almost over minimalized their wardrobe. And they had come so far from big wardrobes to a paired down, lean wardrobe that they were afraid to shop again." - Lauren Engelke, Sustainable Stylist + Curator of TMW Shop

In this episode, Lauren shares more on how she started questions some of the realities of the fashion industry, through her work as a stylist. Whether it was overproduction or the chemicals in the apparel she was steaming, she realized firsthand the disconnects between her values and what was happening behind-the-scenes in the industry.

After giving herself a crash course in sustainable fashion, Lauren redefined her work moving forward as a sustainable stylist.

Also, Lauren shares more about her work with The Minimalist Wardrobe, and helping curate their recently launched discovery platform. One of the coolest tools offered on The Minimalist Wardrobe's Shop is a Before-You-Buy Checklist to help you determine whether or not you really need the item before you buy it.

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• The Minimalist Wardrobe Shop

• TMW's Before-You-Buy Checklist

• 3 words to describe TMW aesthetic according to Lauren: clean, effortless, classic

• 3 words to describe Lauren's personal style according to her: joyful, irreverent, champagne-taste

This Week's Sponsor is BUFFY. Buffy makes comforters that are better for you and the earth, using skin-friendly lyocell fabric and fluffy fill made from 100% recycled water bottles.

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In episode 140, Kestrel welcomes Katie Pruett, the founder and editor-in-chief of Ethical Style Journal, to the show. A platform to help shape fashion culture into one that is as much about awareness, action, and accountability as it is about style, Ethical Style Journal is a stunning publication stacked with substance.

"If you look at the history of our country, they've always kind of helped shape peoples' perspectives - they've always had that authority. Specifically if we're talking about fashion magazines - I mean look at Vogue and their influence. I wanted to get in on that and say hey - let's do some good with this, because we have that power and that's what media has always done - and let's use it in a positive way." - Katie Pruett, Editor-In-Chief of Ethical Style Journal

In this episode, Katie shares more on how she went from searching for a pair of boots to building an independent magazine. For Katie, Ethical Style Journal is a way to use the power of media for good, and she's bringing dynamic voices to the table to achieve this.

Additionally, Kestrel + Katie talk about how thrifting can be a good transition from fast fashion toward shopping more consciously, due to price and accessibility.

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• Nicora Shoes, the brand that kind of helped draw Katie into the ethical fashion conversation

• Natural Awakenings, magazine Katie did ad sales for in the past

• Definitions of terms, the way Ethical Style Journal frames it up: CONSCIOUS: Practicing personal, social, and environmental responsibility. ETHICAL: Prioritizing the well-being of people, animals, and the planet over profit. SUSTAINABLE: Emphasizing processes that stand the test of time, even in the face of climate change + resource depletion.

• "And while working on this issue, I had this thought: art and activism have become intersecting entities that are vital to the sustainable fashion movement. Whether writing about fashion, modeling, or making the garments that carry stories within their threads, people who contribute to making fashion sustainable create and advocate." -quote from Katie from a past issue

• "Our cultures are not a costume" - a quote from Aditi Mayer's article about cultural appropriation in Issue 05 of Ethical Style Journal

• Dominique Drakeford's piece in Issue 04 of Ethical Style Journal

• The Bridal Edit, featured in Issue 04 of Ethical Style Journal

• "Our goal is to inspire people to shop more consciously, and sometimes - that means not shopping at all." -Katie

In episode 139, Kestrel welcomes ethical fashion blogger Benita Robledo and Casey Dworkin, founder of sustainable footwear brand, Sylven New York, to the show. Benita + Casey together are the co-founders of The Better Shop, a new Brooklyn-based pop-up, open this November + December 2018.

"We want people who are as interested in community and collaboration as we are, because we feel like - that's how the sustainability movement is going to grow is if we foster community over competition." - Benita Robledo, Cofounder of The Better Shop

In this episode, Benita and Casey talk a lot about how they bonded over wanting to make the sustainable and ethical fashion conversation + shopping experience more accessible.

They also share more on how they feel The Better Shop stands out from the crowd. For Benita + Casey, they want the shop to bring people in from the community, which is why they are hosting an array of activations to connect people with sustainable lifestyle activities.

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• "And that was I think a really important aspect for Casey and I when working with brands - is that we're all striving to be better every single day, even if we don't get it 100% right, 100% of the time." -Benita

• "For us, we wanted to have an even level of both brand ethos and brand aesthetic, and I think the marriage of those two things has been what's set up our full list of brand partners." -Casey

• The Better Shop is located at 155 Grand St. Brooklyn, NY // it's open 7 days a week from 11 am - 7pm from November 1st - December 30th

This week's episode is brought to you by PALA EYEWEAR Pala make premium quality eyewear, with a focus on ethics and aesthetics. Learn more about Pala at palaeyewear.com/our-story.

In episode 138, Kestrel welcomes Shannon Lohr, the founder of Factory45, to the show. An online accelerator program, Factory45 takes sustainable fashion companies from idea to launch. Shannon's newest project, Market45, is an ethical fashion marketplace, and it just made its debut in the e-commerce space.

"Now we are living in a world where you know, the average consumer, they've at least heard sustainable fashion before - they've heard those words. And that's really cool. It's really great to see the growth and the recognition of what's happening in the space, and remembering that there's no such thing as perfectly sustainable - if you're making something new, everything has an impact, but knowing that we're getting better, the conversation is at least moving along, and we have these independent fashion brands that are trying to provide better options for consumers." - Shannon Lohr, Founder of Factory45 + Market45

In this episode, Shannon gives us an update on where things are at with Factory45, and how much they've grown over the last 2 1/2 years. Also, we dive into her new project, Market45, to learn more about her approach to this discovery platform for ethical fashion.

Shannon shares how in June 2018, she and her web designer decided that they would have to scrap the Market45 project, because they couldn't figure out a way to make it work with the backend. Then, after taking a step back, she gained perspective and came back to the drawing board with new ideas to put Market45 into action.

Shannon has a unique way of discussing sustainable fashion - she emphasizes how no product can ever be 100% sustainable because it's going to have an impact, but that we should be celebrating progress over perfection along the journey.

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• 4 pillars of Market45: sustainable fabric, ethically manufactured, recycled materials, and made in the USA or made in Canada // all Market45 brands fall under at least 3 of those 4 pillars

• Emily Belyea Creative, web designer Shannon consistently works with

• Market45 is meant to be a discovery platform that sends shoppers through directly to the partner brands' websites - but you'll get 10% off your purchases if you go through Market45

DOWNLOAD + SUBSCRIBE Thanks for listening to Conscious Chatter! Subscribe, download, and leave a review for Conscious Chatter on iTunes if you get a chance. I big time appreciate your support! <3 Kestrel

In episode 137, Kestrel welcomes Pierre Nicolas Hurstel, the founder of REMODE, to the show. A conference that is meant to unite fashion brand leaders and industry-wide professionals to inspire solutions for growth and innovation, Remode's inaugural event is taking place on November 13th and 14th, 2018 in Los Angeles.

"The future for brands is sustainable, vertical, omnichannel, purposeful - and this future has started now actually, because thanks to the incredible innovations that are now available, it is now possible for brands to do that at the same time, and sometimes the same technology can help solve both sustainability and retail problems." - Pierre Nicolas Hurstel, Founder of ReMode

In this episode, Pierre shares more on his background and what led him to want to build ReMode. Additionally, he outlines a selection of the panels and speakers he's looking forward to hosting at this year's inaugural event.

Given the cost of entrance to ReMode, Kestrel asks Pierre to share his thoughts on accessibility to the conversation. They discuss the importance of investing in sustainability from a business perspective, and how larger companies must allocate finances to research and development in this area as well.

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• ReMode's 4 Pillars ReThink, ReMake, ReInvest, ReMarket

• Isko, ingredient brand in denim manufacturing - will be speaking at ReMode

• Jeanologia, leader in sustainable and efficient finishing technologies for textiles - will be speaking at ReMode

• Paul Dillinger of Levis - will be speaking at ReMode

• Everlane - will be speaking at ReMode

• Allbirds - will be speaking at ReMode

• Kering - will be speaking at ReMode

• AI Solution Of The Year, one of the ReMode Awards that will be given out this year

GET YOUR PASS FOR REMODEUse promo code GALERIELA for 15% off your entrance to ReMode. Purchase your pass here >

In episode 136, Kestrel welcomes Sebastian Juhola, the creator of The Minimalist Wardrobe, to the show. A platform and popular Instagram, The Minimalist Wardrobe is meant to help people minimize their wardrobes, with a focus on ethical and sustainable values.

"Minimalism brings instant results for your personal life. It has those practical effects right away, in addition to sustainability and the environment. It also helps you personally in tremendous ways." - Sebastian Juhola, Founder of The Minimalist Wardrobe

In this episode, Kestrel gets the chance to connect with Sebastian about what led him to start @theminimalistwardrobe Instagram. Surprisingly, he started it on a whim for fun, and at one point in 2017, left it dormant for several months. Now, the account is growing an average of 500 followers per day.

Throughout this chat, Kestrel asks Sebastian to share his insight as to what storytelling + social media tactics are resonating with The Minimalist Wardrobe audience. Also, they discuss the potential that minimalism has in bringing a more mainstream audience to the sustainable fashion conversation.

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• The Minimalist Wardrobe Community on Facebook

• "Minimalism is a good way to get the masses excited about this [sustainability] because they can feel instant results."

• "I think it's human nature that we crave instant results."

SUGGESTED READING

"Why Does So Much Ethical Fashion Look The Same?" by Whitney Bauck on Fashionista