Conscious Chatter

In episode 125, Kestrel welcomes Laurinda Ndenzako, the cofounder of Collective Closets, to the show. A womenswear label based + made in Melbourne, Collective Closets was built off of Laurinda + her sister Fatuma's African - Australian identities.

"As far as Collective Closets go, we always say that we don't have all the answers, but we definitely want to be part of that conversation - we want to be part of that movement as well to leave a positive impact. And it all starts at home - and sometimes, just the smallest changes make the biggest impact." -Laurinda Ndenzako, Cofounder of Collective Closets

In this episode, Laurinda shares more on the origins of Collective Closets, and how while she and her sister Fatuma were trained outside of fashion, both of their parents made clothing at home, and that was something that influenced them growing up.

A large part of the spark that pushed Laurinda + Fatuma to build Collective Closets was a family trip to Nairobi. According to Laurinda, the brand blossomed out of she and her sister being really proud of their African Australian culture, and embracing the chance to have a voice to tell their own story.

Additionally, throughout this show, Kestrel + Laurinda talk more specifically about the way that Collective Closets always shares a thought provoking piece to outline the inspiration behind each collection. As Laurinda explains, this storytelling component is a massive part of their brand and the way they connect on a larger level with their shoppers, family, friends and beyond.

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• Grandma's Finest Vintage, first company Laurinda + Fatima started (reworked vintage items
• Masai shuka, traditional check fabric originating in East Africa, and worn by the Masai people (a staple used in each of Collective Closets' collections)
• MPENZI WANGU/DEAR ME Collection (most recent collection) "This was her life. Not the life she had dreamed of, not a life her younger self would ever have imagined or desired, but the life she was living, with all it's complexities. This was her life, built with care and attention, and it was good." Kim Edwards The latest collection titled Mpenzi Wangu or Dear Me is inspired by the way in which our past's shape our personal evolution. If you had the opportunity to speak with your younger self what would you say? Have you shed your skin or does she still live within?
• "I think people are not looking for cookie cutter fashion anymore."

Suggested Listening"Why A Drop Of 4 Degrees Made A Big Difference For A Garment Maker's Bottom Line"

In episode 124, Kestrel welcomes Luke Haverhals, the founder and CEO of Natural Fiber Welding, to the show. An analytical chemist, materials scientist and entrepreneur, Luke is working to produce sustainable, high performance materials for a variety of applications with his team at Natural Fiber Welding.

"We're doing something really important for the world which is to basically unleash the abundance of nature and what nature produces at scale (that's very high performance), and being able to convert those materials very simply and very cost-effectively into the things that we need to have high quality and standards of living that are sustainable and renewable." -Luke Haverhals, CEO + Founder of Natural Fiber Welding

In this episode, Luke shares more of his backstory, and how growing up on a farm in the Midwest helped him understand some of the processes behind the creation of things - whether it was food or other materials. He also explains how his research / the early developments of Natural Fiber Welding evolved out of his work at the Department of Defense.

Additionally, Luke helps break down a bit more of the chemistry and science behind the Natural Fiber Welding closed loop system process.

Kestrel addresses an issue she has seen quite a bit recently in the innovative materials space - in that younger, smaller brands often aren't able to access these new fabrics, either due to minimums or requirements for large financial investments. Luke explains how he and Natural Fiber Welding are doing things differently - due to the way they have built an efficient, scalable system, they feel confident working with both smaller and larger brands.

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• Paul Truelove, Researcher who Luke worked for and with at the U.S. Naval Academy
• Bradley University, where Luke has worked as a Chemistry Professor
• "If you consider what nature is really good at making in abundance, it's fiber. So, photosynthesis and plants - you can think about it as an amazing nanorobot technology that produces all sorts of wonderful materials of various physical and chemical processes. But, it's fiber that the world is good at."
• "Cellulose is the most abundant material that's produced by photosynthesis - something approaching 100 gigatons of cellulose are produced each year by life processes on the planet - it dwarfs the amount of abundance that mankind really needs in order to live well."
• Intermolecular forces: nature's sort of glue that holds polymer to polymer; the important one to know about is called hydrogen bonding.
• Hydrogen bonding: this electrostatic attraction that takes one polymer and holds it to all of its neighbors even though the individual molecules are not connected to each other through covalent bonding - they're connected by this intermolecular force.
• "The fiber welding process is a chemistry process that's a closed loop process that imparts a physical change to fiber, connects fibers in ways that they normally wouldn't be connected, and it's 100% natural when it's all done, and you reclaim the chemistry that you enabled the physical change with, and use it again and again. You get something that starts off as fibers as a loose pile, and now those fibers become a 3-dimensional part for your furniture. Or what we do in the textile world is we can take yarns that are made from cotton and especially upcycled cotton (where the fiber is short and the yarns that are made from second-use cotton are not strong enough or very fine), to make really high end performance fabrics. We can take those fibers and we can make yarns that are very strong and fine, and therefore, you can make performance fabrics from cottons that have already been used once."
• Steelcase x Natural Fiber Welding Collaboration, in which they strengthened recycled denim to produce tabletops entirely out of used jeans
• "You can integrate other things that you do along the way to make the textile - all into one process that ends up actually creating a better performing thing - like color that doesn't fade and wash out."
• "Because automation is changing the world, and we're sort of making sure our process as we think about it - we're on the forefront on the technology side, making sure we can liberate it for everybody - not just a few."

Recommended Article From Intro"Sustainable Fashion Only Works When It's Inclusive: When talking about sustainability, we must address the elephant in the room."by Celine Semaan

In episode 123, Kestrel welcomes Rachel Temko, the founder + creative director of Whimsy+Row, to the show. A lifestyle brand for the creative, adventurous lady, Whimsy+Row not only offer their clothing + goods online, they also have a lovely freestanding store in Venice, California.

"I started Whimsy promoting other brands, and that to me is like - we should all be in this together to spread the word and make everybody aware that this is more of a lifestyle." -Rachel Temko, Founder + Creative Director of Whimsy+Row

In this episode, Rachel shares her journey toward taking the leap to start her own company, and how much the creative energy of her family has inspired her over the years.

Additionally, Kestrel + Rachel discuss this new age of influencers, and Whimsy+Row's approach to hiring them for their marketing efforts. While Rachel believes you have to use a combination of influencer marketing mixed with more traditional styles today, she sees the extra benefit of receiving valuable content through influencer partnerships.

Rachel also shares more on her larger vision for Whimsy+Row, which involves building an eco-conscious community first, and a fashion brand second.

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• "A Guide To Working With Niche Influencers", article on Business of Fashion that Kestrel mentions
• "I first want Whimsy+Row to be an eco-conscious community, and second - a clothing brand."
• "What's great about working with influencers - what I really love - is that you get more content. So, maybe if you didn't get a ton of sales out of the post, you might get some beautiful content that you can repost, and your customers can see firsthand how it looks on a different type of person and body shape, so that's where I think working with influencers can be better than doing paid advertising."
• "I mean we think about what we eat all the time and what we consume - why are we not thinking about what we're putting on our largest organ on our body?"
• "I think the easiest thing we can all do is just reinventing what we already have in our closet."
• "Now that I only buy sustainable brands or vintage, I find that my stuff lasts longer, and I'm more connected to the pieces that I own."

Article Recommendation "You Can Quit Feeling Guilty - Sustainability Isn't An All Or Nothing Game" by Sarah Spoljaric for The Good Trade

In episode 122, Kestrel welcomes Anita Vandyke, the author of A Zero Waste Life: in thirty days, to the show. A rocket scientist, blogger, and current student of medicine, Anita is passionate about inspiring others to be every day activists by making small, individual steps to reduce their waste.

"Zero waste living to me means reducing your waste, but also at the same time, it means not wasting away your life - so, not wasting your time, your energy, and finding purpose in your life." -Anita Vandyke, Author of A Zero Waste Life

In this episode, Anita shares more on her path toward a more zero waste life, how she wasn't always a minimalist, and how she gradually evolved from her past maximalist lifestyle.

Additionally, Anita shares some really digestible, accessible tips to help us think about reducing waste while traveling and beyond. For her, there isn't one specific way to work toward a more zero waste lifestyle, which is why she built a tiered system that offers options for you, depending on what's going on in your life at different time periods.

For Anita, it's about having grace for yourself throughout the process, and always understanding that life happens.

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• Dr. Sylvia Earle, founder of Mission Blue / The Sylvia Earle Alliance
• Anita's 3 Steps To Zero Waste Method: 1) Reduced Waste Option 2) Low Waste Option 3) Zero Waste Option
• "It's also a big reminder when you go into a thrift store that fashion has become almost worthless. So, when you see the sale of a jacket or a dress for $3.99, which is less than a coffee in San Francisco, you have to question yourself: how far have we come that fashion is so worthless?"
• "I like to use the terminology that we have enough."
• "You can be passionate about a way of living such as zero waste living, but you don't have to be militant about it."
• Anita suggests to bring your own Zero Waste Kit with you when you travel, including the below: + napkin, stainless steel straw, reusable coffee cup, reusable drink bottle + cutlery
• "It's like any muscle, though - if you make a conscious decision, it's a muscle that you work at - mindfulness is a muscle, so if you keep practicing at it, it will get easier."

Book Recommendation From Intro:Give A Shit | Do Good. Live Better. Save The Planet by Ashlee Piper

In episode 121, Kestrel welcomes Rebecca van Bergen, the founder and executive director of Nest, to the show. A nonprofit that is building a new handworker economy, Nest is dedicated to generating global workforce inclusivity, improving women's wellbeing beyond factories, and preserving cultural traditions.

"Most consumers are completely unaware of this, but production is leaving the 4 wall factory. Anywhere between 20-60% of current garment manufacturing leaves the factory at some point, whether it's sewing a sole on a shoe or doing embroidery or finish work - to homeworkers that were completely invisible." -Rebecca van Bergen, founder + executive director of Nest

In this episode, Rebecca shares more on her journey, and how she originally came to the craft sector from a social work lens, with an interest in helping women around the world. Craft is the second largest employer of women in emerging markets, and for Rebecca - handmade needs to be more accessible to businesses and customers.

Additionally, Rebecca talks in more detail about how she believes that the lack of programming and investment in global craft is aligned with the fact that the majority of the sector is female-dominated.

Considering that 20-60% of current garment manufacturing leaves the 4 walls of the factory at some point today, Nest has helped build The Nest Standards for Homes and Small Workshops + Nest Seal of Ethical Handcraft. Rebecca breaks down in more detail what their standards look like and the ways in which they approach transparency and compliance.

At Nest, they not only help connect brands to their artisan partner network, they also connect aligned professionals with artisan partners, to offer them pro bono consulting on building their businesses.

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• Mohammed Yunus, 2006 Nobel Peace Prize
• Craft is the second largest employer of women globally.
• Nest Artisan Guild, an open access network for artisan businesses including over 400 businesses from over 70 countries
• "You know I think some people were like, 'focus in on one country - like get really good at India,' and it turns out, the similarities between craft businesses in India, it's not the location that matters - it's where they are in the stage of development."
• Professional Fellowship Program, where Nest matches professionals with artisan businesses to do pro bono consulting
• "Transparency isn't a program - that's a precursor to programs in our opinion."
• The Nest Standards for Homes and Small Workshops + Nest Seal of Ethical Handcraft work together to ensure industry-wide transparency and compliance for production is taking place beyond the factory.

In episode 120, Kestrel welcomes Jessica Kelly, the founder of Thr3efold, to the show. A platform that helps connect brands to ethical factories around the world, Thr3efold also hosts Deadstock District, a private portal to sell your fabric liability and source dead stock.

"I keep digging deeper because sometimes people will be like, 'oh well, this brand doesn't talk about their factories so we should question their ethics' - maybe, but maybe not. It doesn't necessarily mean there's something that they're hiding." -Jessica Kelly, founder of Thr3efold

In this episode, Jessica shares more on her journey into the fashion industry, and how she was inspired to self teach herself as much as she could about the sustainable and ethical fashion industry.

Additionally, Kestrel asks Jessica to expand on a blog post she wrote about transparency and whether or not it's actually the answer to a more ethical fashion industry. Here's a quote from that blog post:

"Does publishing your factories make you more sustainable? The short answer is no. Listing your factories does not make you more ethical or more sustainable, it simply makes you more transparent. Your factories could be great or they could only be mediocre (I hope not worse) but that doesn't mean they are better than other fashion brands who choose not to list their factories openly."

Also, Jessica shares more thoughts on what led her to build Deadstock District, a portal she hosts on Thr3efold. Deadstock District gives designers a way to sell their excess fabric, and other designers a place to source deadstock materials.

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• "You can't steer a parked car."
• Sedex, ethical trade audit company (according to Jessica, this is more of a self-assessment tool, and not as advanced as they prefer when vetting factories they suggest)
• "Why Transparency Isn't The Solution To Being A More Ethical Sustainable Fashion Industry" (blog post written by Jessica that was referred to in the episode)
• Primark, map of their factories
• ISO9001 Standard
• Th3efold works with factories certified with WRAP, SA8000, Betterwork, GOTS, and World Fair Trade Organization at this time.
• Fashion Revolution podcast
• Deadstock District, a private portal to sell your fabric liability and source deadstock material
• Conscious Chatter Episode 102 with Dominique Drakeford of Melanin and Sustainable Style

Instagram To WatchThis week, my partner Drew and I are traveling to Oaxaca on a trip with GlobeIn, a subscription box company that features handmade and ethically sourced goods from around the world. We'll be documenting the adventures and meeting some of the makers behind their products. If you're interested in tuning in to see some of the journey, follow along on GlobeIn's Instagram @globein_world.

In episode 119, Kestrel welcomes José Teunissen, the Dean of the School of Design and Technology at London College of Fashion, and a Professor of Fashion Theory, to the show. José is also the curator of State Of Fashion 2018 | searching for the new luxury, an exhibition that recently opened in Arnhem, Netherlands, and runs through July 22nd, 2018.

"Primarily, I also think this time period will be - it's a paradigm shift, probably a big paradigm shift - maybe it's only the start of it, but I think we are definitely in a period where we start to redefine what fashion is." -José Teunissen, Curator of State Of Fashion 2018

In this episode, José shares more context on her past experiences with fashion, and how she became intrigued with fashion theory at an early age through exploring the way fashion can reflect a snapshot of culture in different time periods.

Additionally, José explains the approach to this year's State Of Fashion event, and how she and her team wanted to "search for the new luxury" to uncover potential options that could become future solutions.

For José, the fashion industry has lost a bit of control as well as its cultural meaning, and instead has become a system to give people more opportunities to buy new things all the time. State Of Fashion wants to redefine what fashion is, what values it can offer us, and the luxury it can offer us, to be more aligned with the current culture and moment we live in now.

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• Anne Hollander, American historian whose writing provided new insights into the history of fashion and costume and their relation to the history of art, an author José was interested in during her earlier explorations of fashion theory
• Elizabeth Wilson, author who wrote about the importance of the aesthetic in modern life, another writer José studied and read in her earlier explorations of fashion theory
• ArtEZ, famous fashion program in Arnhem
• Vin + Omi, "we are not just a fashion label, we are an ideology"
• Masters Of Change, a group of young designers selected through an open call for State Of Fashion 2018
• State Of Fashion Manifesto
• Iris Van Herpen, a pioneer in using 3D printing as a garment construction technique, featured at State Of Fashion 2018
• Elisa van Joolen, has an interactive installation project at State Of Fashion 2018, which explores questions around the relationships we have with our clothing and the value we associate with these garments
• Bruno Pieters, focuses on transparency and shares all the stories of his supply chain through his web platform, featured at State Of Fashion 2018
• Space and Matter, architects who designed the State Of Fashion 2018 exhibition space

Featured Artists From IntroVin+Omi, Self-Assembly, Elisa van Joolen and 11.11

In episode 118, Kestrel welcomes Rebecca Burgess, the founder of Fibershed, to the show. A globally recognized project, Fibershed is working to address and educate the public on the environmental, economic and social benefits of de-centralizing the textile supply chain.

"What are we doing? What is our consumption doing to other people's cultures?" -Rebecca Burgess, founder of Fibershed

In this episode, Rebecca shares more on her exceptional and unexpected path into working in the textile industry. For her, it all started with agriculture, and a happenstance loom that happened to exist at her former university.

For Rebecca, she has continued to uncover and discover so many more intricacies of the textile system through her curiosity and drive to consistently ask more questions.

Throughout this chat, Rebecca also shares more in depth information on the power that farmers and ranchers hold today to turn around the health of our soil, while becoming climate change heroes.

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• Rebecca realized what a fibershed is while she was living in Southeast Asia: "a Fibershed is like a watershed or a food shed - it's a strategic geography that clothes you."
• "I think there's a danger in abstracting the wearer from the source of the material."
• Paige Green, photographer Rebecca partnered with in the early stages of building out Fibershed
• Prototype Wardrobe, project Rebecca developed in 2010 (the beginnings of Fibershed), where she worked with the community around her to develop and wear a prototype wardrobe whose dyes, fibers and labor were sourced from a region no larger than 150 miles from the project's headquarters
• Carbon Farming: decarbonizing the atmosphere + re-carbonizing our soils is a process Rebecca has been working diligently on educating farmers, ranchers and larger brands about, in an effort to help them maximize their carbon capture
• "Everyone who manages a farm or a ranch has the potential of being a complete climate hero."
• North Face x Fibershed Climate Beneficial Wool project
• Drawdown, book by Paul Hawken - Rebecca shares how overall, regenerative farming is really how we are going to be able to reverse global warming
• "Bare ground is what you want to avoid in carbon farming."
• Gabe Brown, farmer in North Dakota who has been sequestering massive amounts of carbon into his soil through his regenerative farming approach, using cover crops of diverse species that he calls chaos gardens
• Climate Beneficial Wool, supports fiber production that measurably contributes to balancing the carbon cycle
• Natural Resource Conservation Service
• Comet, tool that allows Fibershed and/or farmers model different scenarios, to help them determine how they can maximize their carbon capture
• Citizen Science Soil Sampling Protocol, developed with UC Davis - it's a toolkit that allows the rancher to take their own soil samples, and they send them to the lab to receive carbon data in their soil per acre (it also allows the farmer or rancher to understand how much carbon they are actually sequestering)
• The Fibershed blog, stories from their producer program
• The Fibershed Affiliate Directory, provides a point of connection to the grassroots network of communities organizing around regional fiber systems
• Post Colonial Bandaid Strategies: "it's like we're rich white people with money and we're going to invest in things that make us feel better in developing countries, and we're going to invest in big global technologies that have high returns and scale really quickly." Rebecca believes that people of means need to be investing in community-based infrastructure.

Artist Alert From Intro:

Rachel Ignotofky is an author and illustrator, who creates exceptionally stunning systems-oriented artwork, connected to the earth, science and women.

If you're a visual learner like me, her artwork can truly help paint a clear explanation of some of the wonders of the planet and beyond.

In episode 117, Kestrel welcomes Juan Diego Gerscovich, the cofounder of Industry of All Nations, to the show. A design and development office that was founded in 2010, IOAN has a commitment to rethink methods of production for consumer goods.

"Every maker that we work with, we want to give them the chance, to let them express - via the product - their life." -Juan Diego Gerscovich, cofounder of IOAN

In this episode, Juan shares insight into his early years, growing up in Argentina with parents in the fashion industry. He also talks about how from a young age, he had a powerful interest in the origin of things, and a curiosity connected to where things come from.

While Juan originally studies architecture, he eventually realized that garments and consumer goods allowed him to create things that were more accessible to people, and that allowed him to develop a more intimate connection.

Kestrel and Juan further explore this idea that products have their own identity - sparked by the below quote from IOAN's website:

"Products have their own identity, which come from their history. An alpaca sweater hand knit in Bolivia, a pair of alpargatas from Argentina or a checkered lined rain-coat made in England. Each of these represent specific moments in time, places, feelings, and we buy and wear them based on how they resonate with us. If you separate a thing from its origin, you separate it from its meaning and reduce it to a mere scrap of cotton and plastic. You orphan it."

Also, Juan shares more about how Industry Of All Nations was born to bring production back to the original makers.

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• IOAN's Alpaca Project
• New Denim Project, IOAN is working on a new project with them - listen to our Conscious Chatter episode with New Denim Project here >

Innovative BrandSelf-Assembly: based in Finland, Self-Assembly makes ready-to-assemble garment construction kits, and basically takes humans out of the supply chain.

In episode 116, Kestrel welcomes Mara Hoffman back to the show, for an update on where the company is - when it comes to sustainability - almost 2 years later. The first time Mara came to the show (in episode 18), the company was just beginning to shift Mara Hoffman over toward a more sustainable direction. In this chat, we get a chance to understand the evolution of the company over the last couple years, in their efforts to tackle their supply chain and fabrications, with a sustainability lens.

"I've been saying 'survival of the kindest' right now - this idea that people that aren't doing good things for the planet or for humanity or for any living beings (the planet as a whole), should be voted off the island." -Mara Hoffman, President & Creative Director of Mara Hoffman

In this episode, Mara shares her thoughts on how far her company has come since they decided to move toward a more sustainable direction. Additionally, Mara shares some of the challenges they encounter regularly since the adjustments, from changing timelines to factor in the timing necessary for fabric development, and navigating the world of certifications.

As a smaller company, Mara shares that while often, it can be challenging to not have a large amount of capital at your fingertips, she's grateful to have the freedom to make changes faster, by being independently run. For the company, they've found unique ways of getting more creative with money to make things work for them.

Also, a key element for Mara is always working on their fit. She believes fit is an important aspect of becoming more sustainable, because it plays largely into the wearability + longevity of their garments.

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• Materials breakdown, on Mara Hoffman's website
• Nest, a partner of Mara Hoffman, helps support their artisan network
• Art Atlas, a partner of Mara Hoffman, Art Atlas is committed to supporting local community development and artisan independence
• Women's Prison Association, nonprofit Mara Hoffman supports + does a lot of work with
• Lower East Side Girls Club, nonprofit Mara Hoffman supports + works with
• "Your experiences match your feelings, and I don't think people think about that a lot."
• "I think with anything, when you really love what you have, you're just not craving all the other stuff."

Event Alert From The Intro State Of Fashion (June 1st - July 22nd in Arnhem, Netherlands) Get Your Tickets Here >