Conscious Chatter

In episode 165, Kestrel welcomes Brendan Synnott, the CEO of Pact Apparel, to the show. Offering head-to-toe basics, Pact believes in crafting clothing differently: sustainable materials, kindness toward humans and the softest clothing you'll want on every layer.

"If I wanted to change everything in my wardrobe — if I just changed everything to organic cotton, how much more is that really going to cost me? And it turns out it's not that much, and what impact does that make." -Brendan Synnott, CEO of Pact

On this week's show, Brendan shares more on what originally got him interested in the health movement, and how impactful it was for him to see his grandfather shift his diet after being diagnosed with heart disease.

Also, Brendan shares more on Pact's supply chain, and how they grow, spin, knit and sew their organic cotton garments in Fair Trade factories in India.

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• Bear Naked, granola company Brendan built and sold to Kellog's

• Evol Foods, another food brand that Brendan built, to create healthier frozen food options

• Greenpeace Exposes Hazardous Chemicals in Popular Fashion

In episode 164, Kestrel welcomes Cayley Pater, the founder of Made Trade, to the show. An online marketplace, Made Trade curates artfully-designed, ethically-sourced goods that put people and our planet first, and they are on a mission to become the ultimate destination for conscious consumers who love design.

"We love to shoot on bright, fun colors and to celebrate diversity in that way. Color is a big part of cultural representation." -Cayley Pater, Founder of Made Trade

On this week's show, Cayley shares more on her background and what got her interested in the sustainability, and heritage conversations. Turns out, for her — language was her entry point. Having studied linguistics, and speaking multiple languages, Cayley was exposed to the power of sustainable business through some of her experiences abroad, that her interest in language originally connected her to.

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• Symbology, Cayley's friend was launching this company nearby in Jaipur, while she was studying in India

• Dr. Habashi, professor at University of Oklahoma, Cayley worked with her and her nonprofit Child's Cup Full in the past, as well as helped them launch the Darzah brand, focused on Palestinian embroidery

• Masaya & Co, furniture brand Made Trade carries, that started as a reforestation project in Nicaragua (for every piece they sell, they plant 100 trees because reforestation is their top priority)

• [from the introduction] "What The Sustainable Movement Is Missing About Privilege" from i-D

• Cayley wants to offer you $20 off your your first order at Made Trade. Head to this link to get your $20 OFF code >

In episode 163, Kestrel welcomes Mary Alice Duff, the founder of Alice Alexander, to the show. A size-inclusive, ethically and sustainably made womenswear brand, Alice Alexander is on a mission to radically change the fashion industry to one that is inclusive of ALL BODIES and is respectful of people and the planet.

"It's still the vision and our mission — when someone is shopping on our website, that they feel seen. And to not get the feeling that I got when I went shopping before I had my own brand, and all I saw were thin white women whose bodies looked nothing like mine, and it was very clear that this isn't the place for me." -Mary Alice Duff, Founder Alice Alexander

On this week's show, Mary Alice shares more on what led her to quit her reliable job as a social worker, and instead start a fashion brand. She also takes us back and shares more on the early stages of Alice Alexander, which until last year, involved working out of her home — cutting and sewing with her tiny team on her family's kitchen table.

Mary Alice explains more about why Made To Order was always the only option for her and her brand. Also, Kestrel + Mary Alice dive into more on how sizing and fit issues are interconnected to the sustainability conversation.

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• The average American woman today is a size 16-18.

• The plus size market is valued at $40 billion dollars, and has only reached half of its potential.

• "If we can make leather out of pineapples, we can certainly dress someone who's a size 18."

• 11 Honoré, a size-inclusive shopping site that does the patterning and product development for luxury designers.

• "Inclusivity is trending hard. And on one hand, that's great. On the other, some of the big issues I'm seeing is that brands are jumping into extended sizing and inclusivity without actually understanding the perspective of living in a bigger body."

• "I don't know if there is a finite number, but I definitely think you can't call yourself inclusive if you're not going up to at least a 4X — you know a size 26 / 28."

• Mary Alice's story on Instagram, that outlines more on the history of "sizing"

• "How To Talk To Your Friends and Family About Sustainability" by Leah Thomas on The Good Trade (mentioned in introduction of show)

In episode 162, Kestrel welcomes Sarah Spellings, a fashion writer for New York Magazine's The Cut. Having been featured on NPR's All Things Considered and CBS New York, among others, Sarah's recent writing about sustainable fashion and going fast fashion free in 2018 has generated an array of interest.

"A lot of my friends were like, 'you're no fun to shop with anymore.' And she was like, ok, it's the end of the year — basically, are you going to be fun again? And I was like 'no, it's a lifestyle change.' And that's what I realized is that it is more of a lifestyle change." -Sarah Spellings, writer for New York Magazine's The Cut

On this week's show, Sarah shares more on what she learned throughout her fast fashion free year. She talks about how she started the pledge writing about "what she was wearing instead", but quickly realized that it wasn't actually about buying — it was more about not buying, buying less, reusing and recycling.

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• "I Gave Up Fast Fashion. Here's What I'm Wearing Instead."

• "What I Learned When I Gave Up Fast Fashion"

• "Your Questions About Food and Climate Change, Answered: How To Shop, Cook and Eat In A Warming World" on the New York Times

• "People are more inclined to read a sustainability story when it feels personal to them. I think that my advice for people wanting to write about sustainability in mainstream media is to break it down and make it personal."

• Maggie Marilyn, made the pajamas Sarah wore to a Met Gala event

• Sarah's personal website

In episode 161, Kestrel welcomes Brittany Sierra, the founder of the Sustainable Fashion Forum, to the show. A PR and marketing strategist by trade, Brittany has a deep passion for creating community and building connections, and she just recently produced the 3rd annual Sustainable Fashion Forum in Portland.

"You know, when I created the event, it wasn't as me, this expert, who knew so much and wanted to share it with everyone. It was more of me wanting to create a place where if you're interested in this, you can come and learn from people who I felt were the experts." -Brittany Sierra, Founder of The Sustainable Fashion Forum

On this week's show, Brittany shares more on her background in PR and marketing, and how that led her to working with fashion designers and creatives. After going to a sustainable fashion show event in Portland, Brittany got really interested in the idea of sustainable fashion, and so in order to learn more about it, she ended up creating an event — The Sustainable Fashion Forum.

Probably not what most people would think to do when they're craving more knowledge, but Brittany had a vision, and SFF has now hosted three annual events, and are currently hearing up for a Pop-Up Tour, launching early June 2019.

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• Sustainable Fashion Forum Instagram
• Sustainable Fashion Forum Pop-Up Tour
• ** mentioned in introduction (article Kestrel was interviewed for) "Are Brands Serious Enough About Their Sustainability Models?" on Sourcing Journal

In episode 160, Kestrel welcomes Nathalia JMag, the designer behind her eponymous label, to the show. Nathalia is a luminary at the Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum and was part of Project Runway Season 15. In addition to running her made-to-order brand Nathalia JMag, she is currently finishing her Masters degree at RISD in Nature Culture and Sustainability.

"Overall, fashion needs to be more inclusive, but because we're doing sustainable fashion, we should be ahead of the game. Like we're already ahead of the game in fashion, so we need to get ahead even more in the sense that we need to be more inclusive of everyone." -Nathalia JMag, designer

On this week's show, Nathalia shares more on her background, how she got exposed to sustainable fashion, her time at Project Runway, and what's driving her as a designer today.

We talk more about how she brings upcycling, zero waste and made-to-order approaches into her design process. Also, Nathalia shares her thoughts on whether today's shopper is gaining more patience to be able to "wait" and "appreciate" made to order garments.

When it comes to what's currently holding the sustainable fashion industry back, Nathalia says it's inclusivity. "It's not sustainable if it's not inclusive. And how are we going to get more people interested in what we're talking about if they don't see themselves represented?"

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• RISD's Nature–Culture–Sustainability Studies MA program: the program Nathalia is finishing this year

• "When you're designing and zero waste garment, you don't start with a sketch like you usually do. You kind of just let the fabric do its thing and you figure out what you can do with the fabric, which it's a different creative process."

• "I was actually really upset because I finally found the industry I want to be in, but then it turns out it kind of goes against all of my values and morals."

• "It's not sustainable if it's not inclusive. And how are we going to get more people interested in what we're talking about if they don't see themselves represented?"

In episode 159, Kestrel welcomes Diana Verde Nieto, the cofounder + CEO of Positive Luxury, to the show. Positive Luxury connects consumers that care with brands that care through their Butterfly Mark, which provides transparency of a brand's commitments to sustainability. Brands part of the Positive Luxury community include Louis Vuitton, Christian Dior, Givenchy, Gabriela Hearst, LVMH, and more.

"Sustainability for a long time has been something that runs vertically on the business, so like the CSR Department or the Sustainability Department. Really, it should ride diagonally across the business, so every part of the business should incorporate the principles of sustainable development, in terms of how it operates." -Diana Verde Nieto , Cofounder of Positive Luxury

On this week's show, Diana shares more on what led her to want to build Positive Luxury. She also provides insight into the power of the "trickle-down-effect" and how luxury fashion can be a driving force to shift the industry at large.

Additionally, Diana shares more on what the assessment process looks like for brands to receive the Butterfly Mark, and the reality that they turn down 30-40% of the brands that apply.

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• Karen Hanton: the founder of toptable.com, Diana's mentor + the cofounder of Positive Luxury

• Harlem Brundtland, who served as the Prime Minister of Norway, defined the term sustainable development back in the 1980s, as "meeting the needs of today, without compromising the needs of future generations."

• The Butterfly Mark — Positive Luxury assesses companies based on 5 principles: governance, social and environmental frameworks, community investment, and innovation. Brands are asked to be reassessed every 2 years.

• "We turn down probably about 30-40% of brands that come to us."

• "I think it's the aspiration. Because as a consumer, as a person, you want to buy better. You want to buy things that represent your values. You want to buy things that make you feel sexy. You want to buy things that make you feel good. But also, you want to be able to tell a story over and above a product. It's like what's the story? Another handbag? Well, really? Another pair of shoes? It's like — why is it special, why is it different? I think the world is changing into really having sustainability as a selling point and a USP of the brand."

• "Companies cannot afford to not think about the effects of climate within their brands."

In episode 158, Kestrel welcomes Jordan Nodarse, the founder and Creative Director of Boyish Jeans, to the show. While Jordan recently founded Boyish in 2018, he's been around the denim scene for years — having been behind the launch of Reformation's first denim collection, as well as Revolve's GRLFRND denim.

"I always tell people — it's all about progress, not perfection. You're never going to be 100% sustainable. Even when you feel like you're 100% sustainable, you can always be more efficient. And the environmental impacts are always going to be evolving to become better and better, so you always have to evolve." -Jordan Nodarse, Founder of Boyish

On this week's show, Jordan shares more on what first got him into denim — trying to make his own jeans. Being a musician at the time, Jordan wanted to have jeans that looked more like Bryce Springsteen in the era of bootcut, so he cut out the inseam of vintage jeans and altered them to get the look he was going for.

Kestrel + Jordan also discuss more of the intricacies of what sustainability means to Boyish, how it's always evolving, and how important it is for Jordan to use his brand to help educate shoppers.

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• Refibra by Lenzing, fabric that Boyish uses

• ZDHC (Zero Discharge Of Hazardous Chemicals); company Boyish works with that audits them regularly

• OEKO-TEX; Boyish works with them to help certify their factory

• Intertek; Boyish works with them for auditing

• The HIGG Index

• BCI Cotton + GOTS Certified Organic Cotton, Boyish has their mill only purchase one or the other, to ensure their cotton is traceable. They also request transactional certificates for everything, and do their best to buy consistently from their suppliers.

• PP (potassium permanganate): one of the harsh chemicals often used to distress denim. Jordan says it can easily be replaced by using natural cold water reactive enzymes.

• Tonello, more sustainable garment-finishing machines that Boyish uses

• Solar Sister, nonprofit Boyish donates to through 1% For The Planet

• Stashers, cool company that makes a silicone-based replacement for ziplock bags

In episode 157, the first show of Season 4, Kestrel welcomes Ayesha Barenblat, the founder of Remake, back to the show, along with Sajida Silva, a student at California College of the Arts, and one of the future designers who was chosen to join Remake for their Made In Mexico trip. A non-profit that believes that fashion can be a force for good, Remake makes the invisible women who power the fashion industry visible through firsthand documentary footage and stories.

"That's the thing, you know — people don't empower people, the women we met are plenty empowered. What they need is for the system to stop oppressing them." -Ayesha Barenblat, Founder of Remake

On this week's show, Kestrel reconnects with Sajida + Ayesha, who she joined last October on Remake's trip to Mexico, as part of their documentary series.

Ayesha sheds light on how distinct this trip was for Remake, considering that so many of the students and influencers spoke Spanish, as well as how we had to meet with the women garment workers outside of a factory setting. Due to not being able to gain access, Remake brought the women from different parts of the country to Mexico City to a safe house to connect with us.

Sajida shares more on the layers of why this experience was so powerful to her, and how inspired she was by the fierceness of the women garment workers we connected with.

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• "Our approach is so different [from auditing processes], and there's something the industry can really learn from that. It's not transactional and extraction in value. We were there to bear witness and really, to listen."

• Humans Of Fashion on Remake: I Am Oliva

• Humans Of Fashion on Remake: I Am Reina

• "I think Reina said it best when she said, 'the price of what you pay for a garment reflects the exploitation.'"

• "The more we center this conversation on women on either end of the supply chain — shopper + maker — rising up to ask for dignity, living wages, protections; that's a very different conversation than sweatshop workers far away that have nothing to do with my life struggles."

• Made In Mexico Garment Workers Speak Out For Women's Rights

In episode 156, Kestrel welcomes Garik Himebaugh, the founder at Eco-Stylist, to the show. An online marketplace for eco-conscious and ethically made men's clothing, Eco-Stylist was founded to search for an answer to the question, "can sustainable be dapper?"

"I think you can create a really great outfit with ethical and sustainable options only, and then the options just keep getting better — so that's an inspiring and positive trend as well." -Garik Himebaugh

In this week's show, Garik shares more on what led him from fashion tech toward a more ethical and sustainable direction. He also reveals some of his favorite brands in the sustainable menswear realm. It's motivating to hear that Garik does believe that sustainable fashion can be dapper.

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

• Adelante Shoe Company, one of the first brands that truly inspired Garik

• Vustra, they make more colorful men's button-up shirts

• Outerknown, a brand Garik suggests, listen to hear their episode on Conscious Chatter here >

• Z Shoes, vegan shoe brand Garik recommends

• Arvin Goods, brand Garik recommends for basics

• Zero Waste Daniel, cool brand that upcycles fabric scraps

• Nisolo, shoe brand Garik suggests for classic styles

• Brave Gentleman, brand Garik suggests for interesting vegan clothing like biker jackets

• What are the best ways to repurpose your old clothes? on Eco-Stylist