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Ask any seasoned collector what his or her grail watch was upon first entering the hobby, and chances are the answer will be very different from what it is today. As our knowledge grows and our tastes mature, so too do the watches we aspire to own. Sometimes the grail gets bigger, sometimes it gets smaller, and occasionally, it turns out we already owned it without realizing. In this episode of Fratello Talks, Nacho is joined by RJ and Thomas to reflect on how their grail watches have changed over the years. They discuss the influence of experience, changing priorities, and why the concept of a grail watch is often more fluid than collectors expect.

Welcome to another episode of Fratello On Air! This week, we discuss sleeper watches from the '90s and '00s. It was an interesting period for timepieces, representing a transition from smaller, often quartz-powered models to mechanical ones. Let's just say that watchmakers were finding their collective feet again with interesting results. Still, there were gems, and we mention a handful.

While Balazs was still a wee lad, Mike was checking out watch shops during the '90s and beginning to spend some of his hard-earned wages by the early '00s. One of the sleeper watches mentioned during this episode even found its way into his collection during that period. But there are plenty of other great pieces to consider. Some are already well known and often discussed, while some of our picks barely get a mention. Enjoy the show!

Handgelenkskontrolle

We launch our show with a chat about recent events. Mike has returned from a largely stress-free trip to Germany. Of course, England's punishing loss to Argentina in the World Cup semifinal makes an appearance. Ugh. Regarding the big screen, The Odyssey looks like a potential must-see. For the Handgelenkskontrolle, Balazs has joined the fray with his Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical 38mm. This is the original version that Mike reviewed way back in 2018. Compared to today's model, it uses an ETA 2801-2 with a 50-hour power reserve instead of the current Powermatic 80-derived caliber, meaning that it ticks with a higher frequency.

Mike, after wearing his 36mm Hamilton all week, has chosen a relatively similar watch for this episode. The old Seiko 5 7S26-02J0, otherwise known as the SNK805, is out in preparation for an article about it. When new, this piece was available on sites like Amazon for €40–80 and now commands prices of €150–250. While we miss the old days, we can't help but believe that this is still decent value for a relatively bulletproof, if not overly accurate, and timeless watch.

Sleeper watches from the '90s and '00s

For our main topic, we return to a dubious period in watchmaking. The '90s and '00s were a great time, but when it came to watches, the results were all over the shop. Bubbly, crude, and forgettable designs were the norm. However, there were certainly standouts. The large brands, like Rolex, Patek, and JLC, largely stuck with tradition and made some beauties, but we're not here to discuss those. We're discussing some of our favorites from other marques, large and small. As mentioned, some of these pieces are popular, so perhaps they don't fall under the term "sleeper." Still, we think they deserve even more love. We start off our discussion with the Porsche Design by IWC ref. 3702. With its flush-mounted pushers, this watch looks as clean and modern today as it did in the '80s and '90s.

In fact, this isn't the only mention of IWC during this episode. The entire catalog of IWC releases, including the Porsche Design watches, during this era was incredible. References included the Mark XII, the Ingenieur 3521, and more. These watches were focused, over-engineered, and beautifully built. A special nod goes to the Aquatimer 3536-2000, another watch that looks incredible now. The Ikepod Megapode Chronograph GMT, designed by Marc Newson, is another model that we love. Friend of the show Eric Wind from Wind Vintage has a special love for these!

The Hamilton 9379 chronographs represent an odd period for the Swiss-American brand. These Valjoux 7750-equipped models wear beautifully and are delightfully inexpensive. Plus, there are many variants to choose from, which means there's something for everyone. For our next sleeper pick, some of us may remember when Omega attempted to lure younger, budget-conscious buyers with the Dynamic Chronograph. Reference 5240.5000 had strong military vibes with Breguet-esque numerals and massive pump pushers. These pieces used an ETA base with a Dubois Dépraz module. Today, these 38mm watches are still inexpensive but offer a great wearing experience. For an even more pared-back style, the field watch 5200.5000 is also interesting.

For our last in-depth sleeper discussion, we mention the Girard-Perregaux Sea Hawk 7100. These lovely divers come in a variety of colors and case materials. Plus, they're still relatively affordable for a piece in decent condition. There's even a GMT version! For our honorable mentions, Balazs discusses the Breitling Aerospace, the Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Memory Time, and the legendary Rolex Oysterquartz 17000.

We hope you enjoy today's show. As always, let us know if you have ideas for future episodes!

All watch collectors' journeys are different. Some focus on a single brand, while others enjoy exploring as many corners of the hobby as possible. Still, there are certain watches (or even categories of watches) that many enthusiasts seem to encounter sooner or later. They may not become permanent fixtures in every collection, but they often leave a lasting impression and help shape a collector's tastes. In this episode of Fratello Talks, Nacho is joined by RJ and Thomas to discuss the watches they believe every enthusiast should own at least once. The idea isn't to create a definitive checklist or suggest that everyone should collect in the same way. Instead, it's about the watches that offer experiences every collector can learn from, whether they end up staying in the watch box or moving on to the next owner.

Welcome to another episode of Fratello On Air! This week, we discuss watch brands, models, and styles that we like but would probably never buy. To be clear, this episode isn't about picking on anyone or anything. Instead, there are other reasons these pieces aren't on our wrists and may never be.

Like any other hobby, watch collecting has its trends, its darlings, and its go-to models. We're aligned with many of these, but there are aberrations. In this episode, we touch upon some of those favorites and why we would likely never buy them. Funds, personal style, wrist size, and marketing strategy are just a few reasons. We hope you enjoy the discussion. Feel free to add your top near-hits in the comments section.

Handgelenkskontrolle

We open our show with an overview of the television shows we've been watching or plan to watch. Silo and Tip Toe are on our radars. Then, Balazs mentions a great throwback movie, The Fugitive. For the first time in ages, we also talk about shoes. Mike purchased a pair of Adidas Gazelle Inter Miami CF shoes, which are a bit funky for him. Balazs is also in on pink with his new Nike Air Jordan 1 Low × Travis Scott Muslin and Shy Pink shoes.

For the Handgelenkskontrolle, Mike is still wearing his new Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical 36mm. Yes, it's still love. Balazs is in the Wimbledon spirit with an interesting pick. He's sporting the Maurice de Mauriac Rallymaster Swiss Tennis, a limited edition celebrating 130 years of the sport in the country.

Watches we like but would probably never buy

We kick off our main topic with the first watch that one of us would struggle to buy. The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso is a watch that Balazs admires, but it's unlikely to make it into his collection. He feels that the watch doesn't fit his more casual, sporty style. Mike also enjoys the famous polo watch, but it sits flat on his wrist. Next, Mike brings up a watch that he'd love to own, but it will sadly never come to pass. The Bvlgari Octo Finissimo is much too wide for his smaller wrist. This is a shame because it's a work of art in person. The Girard-Perregaux Laureato is next on Balazs's list. He enjoys the watch but would like it to look even more distinct next to its peers.

Mike has chosen a sub-genre of watches as the next category of pieces that he will likely never buy. The integrated-bracelet sports watch has never resonated with him. Yes, the Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF 36mm is an exception, but that's because it's a fresh design, whereas most rivals can trace their roots to the '70s. Then, we come to Richard Mille. Design-wise, Balazs doesn't see himself owning one of these even if funds weren't an issue. Finally, Mike brings up a controversial pick. It's odd because this watch should fit his lifestyle, and it's from a great brand. Yet, the Patek Philippe Aquanaut is not for him. Perhaps it was a visit to a Florida jeweler in 1997 that clinched it. The salesperson announced it as an entry-level model!

We hope you enjoy today's show. As always, if you have ideas for future episodes, let us know!

Few watches have inspired as many variations, stories, and passionate debates as the Omega Speedmaster. Over nearly seven decades, it has evolved from a racing chronograph into one of the most celebrated watches in horology, with countless references that appeal to a wide range of collectors. Ask three enthusiasts to name their favorite Speedmasters, and you're likely to get three very different answers. In this episode of Fratello Talks, Nacho is joined by RJ and Gerard to discuss the Speedmasters that have left the biggest impression on them over the years. Rather than compiling a list of the rarest or most valuable references, the conversation focuses on the models they consider icons, whether because of their historical significance, their design, or the role they have played in their collecting journeys. 

Welcome back to another episode of Fratello On Air! Apologies for the late publishing time, but a baby and the World Cup have us keeping odd hours. This week, we target a humorous but potentially dangerous subject. Misleading words when describing a watch, especially a vintage one, are rife within our hobby, so we attempt to shed light on them. Enjoy the show!

Most of us have taken an English or social studies course and were required to read a newspaper article and cross out the non-factual content. Once all the fluff was gone, the paragraph was short, dry, but clear. Watch ads are often similar. However, they use words we all should understand, but the problem is they're often misused or simply wrong. Misleading words, here we come!

Handgelenkskontrolle

Yes, folks, we start the episode with some World Cup talk. An American and a Hungarian discuss the beautiful game with all the skill of leading pundits. Ha! But seriously, it continues to be a lot of fun, if not challenging, to watch in a European time zone. We mention a recent story about Rolex watches gifted to the Mexican team and their return. Then, we talk about the unfortunate-looking Axia watches for the event. When we're not watching football, the new season of Silo is on screen.

For the Handgelenkskontrolle, Balazs is test-driving the new limited-edition Angelus Tinkler. This quarter repeater debuted at Watches and Wonders 2026. It's a pricey little number, but the complication is truly uncommon. Stay tuned for a hands-on review! On the other wrist, Mike is wearing his latest acquisition, the Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical 36mm. Yes, this is the watch that will travel to Brazil, and it's fantastic so far! The size is great, and so are all the details.

Misleading words

If you've spent any time collecting pre-owned or vintage watches, you've read through numerous sale advertisements. While some get straight to the point, many shower us with overly positive adjectives and descriptors. The issue is that these ads are often flat-out wrong. Our first phrase, "new old stock," seems fairly straightforward, but how many times do these pieces show obvious wear? From our vantage point, it's more often than not. Then, the idea of a "military" watch can also be confusing. This term is often a catch-all for any field watch with a black dial and Arabic numerals. Was it really issued to a member of the armed forces?

"Tropical" may be one of the most misleading words because it usually tries to describe dial damage in a positive light. At times, this look can be attractive, but sometimes it's the result of misuse or skullduggery. Then, the drunk uncle of "new old stock" at the holiday party must be "unpolished." Yes, there are situations where the word is apt, but in so many, how does the seller actually know? We question this. Then, we touch on the most overused word, "rare." Yes, some watches are unequivocally uncommon, but this word is too often used to inflate the supposed value. Finally, we cover the "barn find." While this description started as a fun way to describe a raw piece, it loses its luster after the initial sale. We're sure there are more, so feel free to add your favorite hyperbolic phrases or words in the comments section.

We hope you enjoy today's show, and thank you for listening. As always, if you have ideas for future episodes, please let us know!

In all four seasons of the Fratello Talks podcast, we never dedicated an episode to watch dials. We thought it was about time to change that. The dial is one of the most important parts of a watch, as it's the "face" that gets the most attention when checking the time. It often draws the most attention and can be the reason for you to fall in love with a specific watch.

Watch dials have never been more interesting. Whether you prefer classic enamel, traditional guilloché, intricate textures, eye-catching motifs, or even stone dials, today's market offers something for just about every taste and budget. Of course, true artisanal crafts such as hand-turned guilloché or marquetry still command a premium, but that's part of their appeal. In this episode, Daan, Lex, and Nacho dive into what many consider the defining feature of any watch: the dial. They discuss the materials, techniques, and designs that catch their eye and explore what makes a great watch face stand out.

Welcome to another episode of Fratello On Air! This week, we ponder what would be different if we started collecting watches today. We're not allowing ourselves to roll in with all of the wisdom and hard knocks we've encountered. It would be a fresh start. Of course, we start with some other topics, per our custom.

Is collecting watches different now than it was 10 or 20 years ago? You bet it is! In this episode, we consider life anew as a collector. Just imagine it! As you'll hear, our chat is more about where we think we'd begin as collectors and less about the exact pieces. Still, it's a lot of fun to consider.

Handgelenkskontrolle

Folks, when we recorded this episode, it was incredibly hot, so our conversation begins with a bit of moaning about the weather. However, we shift our attention to Mike's upcoming trip to Brazil and the so-called need for a dedicated watch. As of now, the colorful Bulova Snorkel, the Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical 36mm, and the new Victorinox Concept One Solar are the leading candidates. Then, the duo discusses the recently released Grand Seiko Evolution 9 Hi-Beat and U.F.A. Spring Drive models. The watches are lovely but have very much become connoisseur pieces.

For the Handgelenkskontrolle, Balazs is taking advantage of the heat. He has his Rolex Submariner 5513 on a NATO strap. Mike continues his Heuer exploration unabated. This week, he's wearing his Autavia 2446, a watch he purchased almost 10 years ago!

Collecting watches in 2026

Without a doubt, the largest change for new collectors is the advent of social media. Now, there are advertisements, live photos, videos, and sellers everywhere. It's a good thing, but it's also dangerous. We mention how we'd navigate these murky waters. Another massive change is the rise and maturation of microbrands. Whereas almost all collectors began with Seiko in the past, there are now scores of choices from worthy independent brands. Some, like Arken, even offer in-house-developed complications. That said, both of us are old souls, and despite the run-up in vintage prices since we began, there are still great options available. Plus, there's even more research available now. So, yes, we'd probably still dive headlong into vintage watches.

We hope you enjoy today's episode, and thank you for listening! As always, if you have any future topic suggestions, please let us know!

On the 225th anniversary of the tourbillon patent, we sit down with Breguet CEO Gregory Kissling. Before taking the helm at Breguet on October 1st, 2024, Kissling served as Vice President of Product at Omega. Having known him for many years and collaborated on memorable projects such as the Speedmaster Speedy Tuesday editions of 2017 and 2018, we were especially excited to see him take on the role of CEO at Breguet. In this episode of Fratello Talks, Kissling walks us through the newest Breguet Tradition Tourbillon 7047, reflects on the company's remarkable history, and shares his vision for its future.

Welcome back to another episode of Fratello On Air! This week, we talk about car watches, a curious subgenre within our hobby. Sure, the automobile industry is massive and has an equally huge fan base, but collaborations between watch and car brands often misfire. This draws us into a conversation about what we think of when pairing our vehicles with a watch. Whether it's for driving or attending a related event, what works best?

Yes, in this episode, we tackle a challenging topic. Or, for some of our readers and listeners, perhaps it isn't a consideration at all. Car watches have been a focal point since wristwatches were first created. Angled dials meant to help drivers tell time at a glance have been produced by many marques. Then, an obvious complication associated with cars and racing is the chronograph. This is the most common platform for pieces made for Formula One teams and other automotive brands. We find many of these too on the nose, with overt branding that may only appeal to an owner of a car from the related maker. So, what should we wear when driving our fun cars or when heading off to a get-together or race?

Handgelenkskontrolle

Folks, it's hot out there, so we kick off our show by talking about the oppressive heat and the need for more air conditioning. Then, we mention the World Cup and all the great stories we've seen about visitors enjoying fun restaurants and customs in America. Once again, the Scots have endeared themselves to the locals. Travel-wise, Balazs just returned from Los Angeles, where he organized a Chrono24 get-together with our friends from the Spirit of Time podcast. Nearly 60 people came together at a Pasadena brewery to share their passion for watches. Mike visited the Icons of Porsche: Sunstede Silverstone Edition event celebrating Porsche's 75th anniversary in the UK. It was an incredible showing of cars and car culture. It's also what led us to our main topic — car watches.

For the Handgelenkskontrolle, Balazs is wearing one of the watches he took to California. It's none other than his prized Rolex GMT-Master 1675. Mike is still on a vintage chronograph kick and is wearing his Lemania-powered Meylan chronograph with a decimal scale.

Car watches

Current and past horological catalogs are littered with car watches. You know, when a watch brand decides to sponsor a racing team or become the official partner of a prestigious luxury automaker. Very few are good, while most are tacky or overbranded. So, on the heels of the Porsche event, it got us thinking about the right pieces to wear when enjoying all things petrolhead. We both wholeheartedly agree that Heuer is the unequivocal leader for motorsport-related driving and race-inspired timepieces. However, it's the surprising Omega Speedmaster, in any form, that checks in as a no-nonsense racing-related model. This is despite its fame as a space watch.

Other watches, including the Amida Digitrend, Omega Chronostop, and the Vacheron Constantin American 1921, arise as driver-focused pieces. Regarding newer ones, mechaquartz movements have helped inspire some attractive, robust models. The Bamford Mayfair 2.0 is a fun, brightly colored chronograph with an interchangeable case ready for any event. We close out with our ultimate "one and done" watch to wear for anything car-related. For Mike, the Heuer Carrera 2447 is pure perfection. Balazs has also chosen a Heuer, but he sees the Monaco as the ultimate car watch.

Thanks for listening to today's episode! As always, feel free to let us know if you have topics for future episodes.