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Skeletonized watches and openworked dials seem to be everywhere this year. From subtle cutouts that reveal just a hint of mechanics to fully open displays that showcase the entire movement, brands across price segments are leaning into transparency. Whether driven by aesthetics, technical ambition, or simply a desire to stand out, it’s a trend that’s hard to ignore. In this episode of Fratello Talks, Nacho is joined by Thomas and Lex to discuss what feels like a particularly strong year so far for skeletonization and openworked designs. The trio explores why brands keep returning to this idea, what separates a good execution from a cluttered one, and whether these watches work as daily wearers or remain statement pieces.

Another Watches and Wonders is in the books, and as always, it takes a moment to process everything. Between the main fair at Palexpo, meetings across Geneva, and visits to the various satellite events around the city, the week becomes a blur of watches, conversations, and quick (yet lasting) impressions. Only afterward do the highlights start to settle. In this episode of Fratello Talks, Nacho is joined by Daan and Max (our man behind the camera, making his podcast debut) to debrief after a packed week in Geneva. The trio discusses the watches that stood out, the surprises that weren’t on their radar beforehand, and a few memorable discoveries from the external fairs running alongside the main event. 

"Chronometer" is one term that frequently comes up in watchmaking. We see it stamped on dials, highlighted in marketing materials, and often used as a synonym for "high quality." But how much does chronometer certification actually matter to us as collectors? In this episode of Fratello Talks, Nacho is joined by Daan and RJ to unpack the role of this certification in modern watch collecting. Is it something we actively look for? Does it influence buying decisions? Or is it one of those things that sounds more important than it feels in daily wear?

We all have watches we absolutely love but would hesitate to recommend to someone else. That might sound contradictory at first, but spend enough time in this hobby, and it starts to make sense. Not every great watch is universally great. Some require a certain mindset, a specific wrist, or simply a willingness to embrace their quirks. In this episode of Fratello Talks, Nacho, Daan, and RJ discuss precisely those watches — the ones they enjoy for themselves but wouldn’t necessarily suggest as a safe buy for others. It’s a conversation about nuance, experience, and the difference between appreciation and recommendation.

Welcome back to another episode of Fratello On Air! This week, we discuss underrated vintage brands that are worth a long look. We've had these types of chats before, but it's always nice to see what we've missed. You'll hear some familiar names today, as well as about some smaller companies that could be new to you.

While both of us have a penchant for vintage Rolex, Heuer, and other well-known marques, our love for vintage brands is universal. Whether it's a cool piece from a one-hit wonder or an everyman's watch company that made some seriously good stuff, we're up for it. Today, we'll mention some oft-overlooked opportunities to grab some of that vintage goodness.

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We begin our show with a discussion about Mike's home state, Florida. Then, we move on to television, where Balazs has been watching Tehran, Hijack, and His & Hers. Meanwhile, Mike has engaged his '90s youth with Love Story. For the Handgelenkskontrolle, Balazs is wearing his trusty vintage Rolex 5513 Submariner after his latest journey. Mike has been exploring modern watches lately due to the never-ending rain in the UK. This week, he's wearing his Aquastar Benthos H2.

Vintage brands worth looking into

There are fantastic opportunities within the watch hobby to enjoy great pieces at an affordable price. Sure, a vintage Rolex or Patek Philippe is a wonderful thing to own. However, with high prices, scary fakes, and the risk of loss as ever-present concerns, it's worthwhile to look elsewhere. Today, we're focused on vintage brands that don't get much attention but still offer loads of value and satisfaction.

We start our discussion with Bulova, a once-mighty Swiss-American brand that's thriving again under Citizen's ownership. Still, aside from a few pricey key chronographs and dive watches from the 60s, this high-volume brand has some gems that are very easy to find and affordable. With in-house movements and enough styles to fill a museum, there's likely something for everyone.

Roamer is another brand that receives almost no attention from collectors. This is a shame because the company made some truly high-quality and uniquely designed watches. Signed crystals, monobloc cases, and NSA bracelets are just some of the goodness one can find.

Wittnauer is another interesting case. Longines formerly owned the brand, and it is now another entrant in the Citizen stable. Here again, aside from a few select chronographs and an interesting electronic watch, there are oodles of fantastic references available for little money. In particular, see the military or military-inspired pieces.

Loads of options

We also discuss another Swiss-American brand, Gruen. From the Curvex to later models, there are plenty of great options. Similarly, check out bygone house brands from American jewelry and department stores. Companies such as Baylor (a Zales brand) or Le Gant (from Montgomery Ward) are often great places to find watches from more famous marques, like Heuer.

Finally, there's Mido, a brand that used fancy

Spend enough time around watches, whether at events, in boutiques, or just talking to fellow enthusiasts, and you start to notice the same talking points coming up again and again. Certain topics seem to define how we think about watches today. In this episode of Fratello Talks, Nacho is joined by Lex and RJ to unpack those recurring conversations. The idea for the episode came to Lex while chatting with a friend and watchmaker in Geneva, a reminder that even at the heart of the industry, the same themes keep resurfacing. From in-house movements to size, heritage, and hype, the trio explores what really drives modern watch conversations and the impact these exchanges can have on the industry. 

It’s a question that comes up from time to time in today’s watch world: Does resale value affect how much you enjoy a watch? With secondary market prices discussed almost as frequently as specifications, it’s hard to ignore the financial side of collecting. In this episode of Fratello Talks, RJ, Thomas, and Nacho discuss whether resale value changes the way we approach watches. Does strong value retention make a watch easier to enjoy, or does thinking about future resale quietly undermine the whole point of wearing one?

Welcome to another episode of Fratello On Air! This week, we address a listener's question about price transparency in the vintage market. Does it exist, and if not, how should a new collector navigate these murky waters? Listen in as we take a long look at this interesting topic.

After last week's episode about what happens when a previously undervalued brand gains attention, we decided to focus on another deep topic. This time, we pick a listener's suggestion and discuss price transparency in the vintage watch marketplace. Thanks to Tachytales for the suggestion, and thankfully, we've got a lot to say!

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We begin our discussion with discussions about TV shows. The second season of Paradise is a must-watch. Then, we discuss the Oscars and several of the movies featured during the annual award show (yes, we made a mistake about Sinners winning the Best Picture award). Balazs has just returned from a business trip in Miami, and he has plenty to say about the weather, the clothing, and the Miami Heat. While there, he also had the chance to check out the latest Omega Speedmaster Professional "Reverse Panda" in steel. Regarding the Handgelenkskontrolle, Mike is wearing the Aquastar Benthos H2, a great watch for the rainy weather in London. Balazs brought a trio of watches to Miami and has opted for the one he wore the least. Today, he's donning his Rolex Submariner 5513.

Price transparency in the vintage watch market

For our main topic, we attempt to answer a faithful listener's question about market pricing for vintage watches. Yes, it can be difficult to know what to pay for a given watch when prices are all over the map. The same is true when past sales prices are challenging to find. And what about dealers who seem to charge a lot more than others?

First, we understand that some collectors of vintage watches are more comfortable taking risks than others. Still, we advocate research ad nauseam until purchasing feels like less of a gamble. Frankly, we feel that some watches are worth paying a dealer premium for, while others are more apt for finding on a site like eBay or at a local auction. For example, we'd likely refrain from buying an older Rolex or Patek Philippe on a whim.

Of course, there are other considerations, such as condition and service history. Some dealers specialize in museum-like new-old-stock pieces, which garner premium prices. Others ensure that all watches have received a full service before sale, a costly feature that isn't insignificant for an older timepiece.

We always come back to doing one's homework, but it's not just about the watches. More than ever, we've seen a surge in Instagram-based dealers with dubious credentials. Digging deep to learn about their reputations, the watches they're selling, and even checking if commenters are always the same are sound tactics. In the end, though, there are few absolutes on the pricing of vintage watches. If a watch is honest, in your price range, and desirable, then it's probably a good buy.

We hope you enjoy today's show. Feel free to leave us your comments below, and don't hesitate to suggest any additional show topics. Thanks for listening!

The microbrand segment of the watch industry has evolved dramatically over the last decade. What once felt like a niche corner of the horology world has grown into a thriving ecosystem of small companies producing thoughtful, design-driven watches. Some focus on value, others on originality, and a few are beginning to push the boundaries of what a small brand can achieve. In this episode of Fratello Talks, Nacho, Daan, and RJ discuss the microbrands they believe are worth keeping an eye on in 2026. These aren’t necessarily brands that just released something big; rather, they’re the ones the trio expects might do something interesting in the year ahead.

Welcome back to another episode of Fratello On Air! We're back (sort of) after more travels, and this week, we discuss the fallout that happens once a formerly unloved brand becomes popular. Call it sour grapes or wanting to keep something to oneself, but feel free to listen to our thoughts on the subject. Enjoy the show!

I'm sure you know what it's like to be holding a secret. No, I don't mean the salacious kind, but when you know of something good that others are ignoring. Sometimes, it's the best song on a new album that hasn't been released. For this episode, though, we're here to talk about watches. Specifically, we mention the recent attention garnered by a brand that has been dormant to mainstream collectors for the better part of four decades, Movado. We also mention Balazs's favorite, Angelus.

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We kick off our episode about a cult brand getting popular with some banter. After all, it's been a while since we've spoken. Mike is currently in Canton, Ohio, and had the opportunity to visit the Pro Football Hall of Fame. It's a must-see for anyone who enjoys the game! Then, we turn our attention to the TV shows we've been watching. Paradise, The Night Agent, and Cross are current hits worth streaming. For the Handgelenkskontrolle, Mike brought one watch to Ohio. It's his metallic-black-dial Rolex Datejust 16030 from 1983. He hasn't worn it much over the past five years, but it has performed admirably on the trip. Balazs has even more exciting news. After his recent trip to Japan, he ordered the Ōtsuka Lōtec No.5 Kai, and it just arrived. This is a very different brand and style of watch for him. We can't wait for the review!

When a brand you love becomes popular

We spend our time discussing the positives and negatives of when a brand you enjoy suddenly gains more of a mainstream following. Our recent prime example of this is Movado, a company that made some fantastic watches from the 1930s through parts of the 1970s. We discuss how Movado's more complicated vintage models were once popular with collectors during the 1980s, when smaller pieces were all the rage. However, since then, no one cared much until now. Savvy collectors have long appreciated Movado's in-house movements and above-average attention to detail, but this somehow escaped dealer websites until recently.

Aside from rising prices, we discuss the other pitfalls of a once-cultish brand becoming more widely known. Balazs keeps our conversation balanced with similar thoughts about his favorite vintage marque, Angelus. Of course, availability has dropped along with the ability to find a diamond in the rough. Plus, we've witnessed a rise in dubiously knowledgeable merchants proclaiming originality on a piece when there are clear issues. Also, for collectors who place a lot of trust in dealers, there's a big difference in the robustness between a watch from the '30s or '40s without shock protection and a more modern '60s chronograph. When problems occur, will people abandon a brand like Movado? In our experience, servicing such older pieces is also more challenging due to parts availability and watchmaker patience. If it sounds like we're bad-mouthing Movado, we're not! Perhaps we're simply concerned about the fallout once the hype subsides.

We hope you enjoy today's episode, and we're looking forward to your comments. If you have thoughts on subjects for future shows, please let us know!