Hairspring

Erik & Max are coming in hot this week, discussing our top 3 watches which have most fallen from grace in their contemporary iterations as opposed to the original vintage flavor, a discussion which holds no punches. No institution is safe, with assaults on every house from Rolex to Patek, AP, and everything in between. We cool down in the form of a chat around the differences between US and European watch culture, and why we spent the early part of this century catching up. Finally, our first listener-submitted Only Wrist that gets hilariously dark. Buckle up. 

Mentioned Links:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/rolex-explorer-reference-points

https://explorer1016.com/

https://www.rolex.com/en-us/watches/explorer/explorer

https://hairspring.com/finds/168-019-linen-dial-omega-constellation-day-date/

https://hairspring.com/finds/well-preserved-omega-pie-pan-constellation-167-005/

https://hairspring.com/finds/168-017-linen-dial-omega-constellation-date/

https://www.omegawatches.com/en-us/watches/constellation/constellation/catalog

https://hairspring.com/finds/3923a-patek-philippe-calatrava/

https://www.reddit.com/r/Watches/comments/74a6fs/omega_seamaster_1660215_any_idea_as_to_value/

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-rolex-6062-triple-calendar-moonphase-and-why-it-remains-the-biggest-star-in-all-of-vintage-rolex

https://hairspring.com/finds/8171-padellone-rolex-triple-calendar-moonphase/

https://www.rolex.com/en-us/watches/1908

https://hairspring.com/finds/4315-rolex-king-midas-in-white-gold/

https://hairspring.com/finds/lapis-lazuli-dial-4316-rolex-king-midas-cellini/

https://www.instagram.com/toledanoandchan/

https://www.audemarspiguet.com/com/en/watch-collection/royal-oak/15202ST.OO.1240ST.01.A.html

https://apchronicles.audemarspiguet.com/en/article/model-5402-dial-variants

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/audemars-piguet-royal-oak-rd2-perpetual-calendar-ultra-thin-introducing

https://monochrome-watches.com/history-patek-philippe-nautilus-part-1-nautilus-3700/

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/a-collectors-guide-to-the-patek-philippe-nautilus-5711

https://www.acollectedman.com/products/heuer-autavia-rindt-2446-mk3-watch

https://hairspring.com/finds/orange-boy-11630-heuer-autavia/

https://www.tagheuer.com/us/en/timepieces/collections/tag-heuer-autavia/42-mm-calibre-heuer02-cosc-flyback/CBE511B.FC8279.html

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/patek-philippe-nautilus-5711-tiffany-blue-phillips-new-york-2021

https://www.omegawatches.com/en-us/watch-omega-speedmaster-dark-side-of-the-moon-co-axial-chronometer-chronograph-44-25-mm-31192445101005

https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6194145

https://collectability.com/product/patek-philippe-ellipse-wristwatch-with-iraqi-eagle-ref-3548j/

Erik & Max are back for a second go, audio fixed, and covering such pressing topics as the greatest chronograph pusher of all time, early Lange, and why the 1463 isn't actually perfect. Or, perhaps more pertinently, is it possible for a large watch publication to be both successful and truly independent? Through rambling conversation and terrible metaphor, we attempt to answer both. Plus, a truly self-loathing reappearance of Only Wrist by popular demand. 

Mentioned Links:

https://langepedia.com/encyclopedia/lange-datograph/ 

https://www.strictlyvintagewatches.com/rolex-fuchsia-bezel-gmt-master-reference-1675 

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/reference-points-tag-heuer-carrera 

https://www.omegawatches.com/en-us/watches/seamaster/heritage-models/ploprof-1200m/catalog 

https://www.watchprosite.com/a.-lange-and-s%C3%B6hne/an-insight-into-the-different-lange-l951-calibres/10.1026063.7285943/ 

https://hairspring.com/finds/dufourgraph-403-031-a-lange-sohne-datograph/ 

https://revolutionwatch.com/the-ultimate-guide-to-the-longines-chronograph-13zn-pulsanti-ad-ombrello-or-mushroom-pusher/ 

https://www.epistemedaytona.com/daytona-calibers 

https://www.fratellowatches.com/sinn-142-st-52mondayz-week-15-2020/ 

https://hairspring.com/finds/tasti-tondi-patek-philippe-1463-in-rose-gold/ 

https://onlineonly.christies.com/s/watches-online-dubai-edit/vacheron-constantin-les-historiques-ref-47101-4-4711-platinum-manual-87/165794 

https://collectability.com/learn/the-key-to-master-case-makers-for-patek-philippe/ 

https://hairspring.com/finds/special-order-eastern-arabic-cartier-tank-cintree/ 

https://www.patek.com/en/collection/complications/5205R-011

Some smaller watch media outlets worth paying attention to (there are many others, sorry it’s an impossible job to catalogue all the great work out there, these just came easily to mind):

https://www.rescapement.com/blog/resources

https://www.acollectedman.com/blogs/journal

https://collectability.com/learn/

http://singaporewatchclub.com/category/publications/

https://www.strictlyvintagewatches.com/

https://www.watchbrotherslondon.com/sales-corner

https://langepedia.com/

https://thespringbar.com/

https://www.onthedash.com/

https://www.kristianhaagen.com/books

https://www.johngoldbergerwatches.com/

https://thewatchannual.com/

https://beta.subdial.co/read

https://chrisjameshall.substack.com/

https://www.screwdowncrown.com/

https://owenlawton.substack.com/

https://www.gq.com/newsletter/subscribe?newsletterId=248992

Are prototypes worth considering? Is Universal Genève the next 44mm Breitling for Bentley? What should you wear if you're a middle-aged insurance broker? And just WTF is going on with the market right now? Erik & Max explain as they attempt to make a podcast, if anyone is interested. This is our pre-production podcast, where the dial fits a little strange, quality is questionable, and some of the text is a bit off.

Links mentioned:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/whats-the-deal-with-albino-rolex-dials

https://hairspring.com/finds/test-dial-16520-rolex-cosmograph-daytona/

https://hairspring.com/exclusives/favre-leuba/53243-prototype-blue-dial-bathy-50-steel/

https://www.phillips.com/detail/omega/CH080322/74

https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/patek-philippe-ref-5060-aquanaut-lot-321-726

(power reserve on dial, obviously, not power phase, mispoke)

https://hairspring.com/finds/prototype-dial-22410-universal-geneve-compax/

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/its-back-universal-geneve-to-relaunch-under-the-same-ownership-as-breitling

https://www.fratellowatches.com/gay-freres-the-most-impactful-parts-supplier-of-all/

https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/NY080223/88

https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2023/important-watches-2/reference-6241-daytona-paul-newman-john-player?locale=en

https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2023/important-watches-2/reference-6105-datejust-ovettone-a-pink-gold?locale=en

https://www.phillips.com/detail/philippe-dufour/NY080223/135

https://www.screwdowncrown.com/p/philippe-dufour-watch-sells-for-1bn

https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2023/important-watches-2/reference-1518r-a-pink-gold-perpetual-calendar?locale=en

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/talking-watches-francois-henry-bennahmias