Hairspring

Erik & Max tour through some of the more significant innovations ever in the history of watchmaking to ask, ‘Where are all the innovations?’ Including conversations around silicon, dubious 3940s, and trench watches. Then we invite a Rolex AD to come give a peer behind the curtain of Rolex to see how things really work. Plus, an Only Wrist to save Boeing.

Links Mentioned:

Innovations:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_watches

https://wornandwound.com/watchmakers-bench-what-makes-it-tick-part-3-keyless-works-and-the-hand-setting-mechanism/

https://hairspring.com/finds/740-036-a-lange-sohne-datograph-perpetual-tourbillon/

https://monochrome-watches.com/history-automatic-watch-first-automatic-pocket-watch-first-automatic-wristwatch-technical-perspective/

https://www.windvintage.com/blog/2022/9/7/the-oyster-story

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-modern-watch-escapement-and-how-it-got-that-way

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/zenith-defy-inventor-introducing

https://www.phillips.com/article/120989115/a-guide-to-the-patek-philippe-advanced-research-series

3 Questions:

https://speedmaster101.com/

https://goldammer.me/products/omega-seamaster-deville-18k

https://www.gronefeld.com/collection/1941-principia/white-gold-br-or-br-stainless-steel-5/

https://hairspring.com/exclusives/gronefeld/1941-principia-sydel-sydel-edition-steel/

https://hairspring.com/exclusives/mbf/legacy-machine-lm2-titanium/

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/all-three-versions-of-the-new-mbandf-lm101-2021-edition

https://www.phillips.com/detail/mbf/CH080121/226?fromSearch=hodinkee%20&searchPage=1

https://www.acollectedman.com/products/buy-voutilinen-prototype-vingt8-platinum-watch

https://hairspring.com/finds/green-don-bezel-2998-3-omega-speedmaster/

Only Wrist:

https://hairspring.com/finds/3947-breguet-classique-rattrapante/

https://hairspring.com/exclusives/omega/105-012-65-tropical-dial-speedmaster-steel/

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Je-07hM0sTo

https://hairspring.com/exclusives/breitling/806-valjoux-72-aopa-navitimer-steel/

What does the Rolex 6238 black dial have in common with the Zenith 135? Why was Erik wrong to judge a green 5711? And what does Max think the first person to step foot on mars should wear for the occasion? All this and more, with a brief interrogation this week. 

Links Mentioned:

The Gentlemen:

https://www.gq-magazine.co.uk/article/the-gentlemen-watches-2024 

Q-Ships:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Q-ship

Q-Watches: 

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/does-great-movement-finishing-mean-a-great-watch

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/zenith-caliber-135-observatoire-limited-edition-voutilainen-phillips-2022

https://hairspring.com/finds/zenith-x-voutilainen-x-phillips-calibre-135-o/

https://www.ablogtowatch.com/laurent-ferrier-galet-classic-tourbillon-double-spiral-watch-review/

https://le-monde-edmond.com/in-depth-review-rolex-6238-pre-daytona/

https://hairspring.com/finds/philippe-dufour-simplicity/

Only Wrist:

https://revolutionwatch.com/cartier-a-santos-story/

https://www.akrivia.com/watch/tourbillon-chronographe-monopoussoir/

Erik & Max attempt to answer the question, ‘What separates good finishing from bad finishing?’ It is a question that requires them to go through all the various finishing techniques you’re likely to see in detail, explain why the Le Mans caseback is, sort of, ugly, and ask if you should care about inner angles. Plus, what should Indiana Jones have worn in Raiders of the Lost Ark?

Links Mentioned:

Memorial Day Article & Great Historic Watch Accounts:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/through-watches-those-who-have-died-in-service-of-their-country-are-remembered

https://www.instagram.com/niccoloy/

https://www.instagram.com/watchesofespionage/

Finishing: 

https://perezcope.com/2021/08/08/panerai-in-house-movements-a-pam-of-worms/

Côtes de Genève:

https://www.watchprosite.com/horological-meandering/what-makes-for-really-good-c%C3%B4tes-de-gen%C3%A8ve-/17.1298116.11050241/

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/up-close-and-personal-with-the-2023-rolex-le-mans-daytona-ref-126529ln#&gid=1&pid=14

https://www.acollectedman.com/blogs/journal/philippe-dufour-crafts-watches

https://monochrome-watches.com/laurent-ferrier-galet-classic-tourbillon-double-spiral-reviewing-an-understated-masterpiece-photos-specs-and-price/

Anglage:

Flat 45-degree Anglage:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-omega-speedmaster-professional-moonwatch-master-chronometer-with-co-axial-caliber-3861#&gid=1&pid=4

Bercé or Bombé Style:

https://www.acollectedman.com/pages/rexhep-rexhepi-chronometre-contemporain-two

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/watch-spotting-kari-voutilainen-interview#&gid=1&pid=8

Zero Chamfering:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/grand-seiko-hi-beat-36000-gmt-limited-edition-sbgj227-peacock-hands-on#&gid=1&pid=7

Matte or Frosted Bridges:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/with-the-romain-gauthier-logical-one-in-white-gold

https://watchesbysjx.com/2022/09/sylvain-pinaud-origine-review.html

https://watchesbysjx.com/2020/06/lange-sohne-handwerkskunst-reference-guide.html

Skeletonization:

https://hairspring.com/finds/43032-vacheron-constantin-skeleton-quantieme-perpetuel-platinum/

Black Polish:

https://monochrome-watches.com/hands-on-petermann-bedat-reference-2941-split-seconds-chronograph-specs-price/

https://hairspring.com/finds/kikuchi-nakagawa-murakumo/

Examples:

No Finishing Valjoux 7731:

https://thewatchspotblog.com/breitling-superocean-ref-2005-valjoux-cal-7731/

Industrially Finished Omega 3861:

https://www.omegawatches.com/en-us/watch-omega-speedmaster-moonwatch-professional-co-axial-master-chronometer-chronograph-42-mm-31030425001002

Vintage Hand Finished Patek Philippe Calibre 12-20:

https://hairspring.com/exclusives/patek-philippe/592-salmon-dial-calatrava-steel/

https://revolutionwatch.com/history-of-the-patek-philippe-perpetual-calendar-chronograph/

Traditional Finishing Style Performed Today:

https://www.acollectedman.com/products/philippe-dufour-grande-et-petite-sonnerie

Contemporary, More Innovative Finishing:

https://watchesbysjx.com/2023/07/petermann-bedat-reference-2941-split-seconds-chronograph-review.html

https://watchesbysjx.com/2018/04/introducing-the-romain-gauthier-insight-micro-rotor-in-black-titanium.html

16/1860:

https://hairspring.com/finds/16-1860-2-chopard-luc-calibre-1-96-2/

Only Wrist:

https://hairspring.com/exclusives/eberhard/11538-scientigraf-steel/

https://hairspring.com/finds/us-navy-tornek-rayville-tr-900/

Erik & Max go from the absurd to the practical with two major topics this week. The first headline is a rewrite of athlete’s watches, we make choices for what we’d like to see Michael Jordan, Ayrton Senna, Bubba Watson, and even Conor McGregor wear. Second, we get serious with a primer on vintage engraved enamel Patek Philippe dial construction and the very basics of assessing condition (including a practice session with some upcoming lots at NYC auctions). Finally, an Only Wrist which asks, ‘What is the ultimate dad watch?’

Links Mentioned:

Conor McGregor:

https://www.richardmille.com/historical-models/rm-38-01-tourbillon-bubba-watson

https://www.acollectedman.com/products/oilean-hb-1-titanium

https://hairspring.com/finds/mbf-lm-perpetual-calendar/

Michael Jordan:

https://www.gq-magazine.co.uk/fashion/article/michael-jordan-a-lange-sohne-datograph

https://www.gq.com/story/watches-of-the-week-7-2-22

https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/HK080423/858

https://hairspring.com/finds/fap-6263-rolex-daytona/

https://hairspring.com/finds/coral-red-stella-dial-1803-rolex-day-date/

Ayrton Senna:

https://www.ayrton-senna.net/watch-collection-of-ayrton-senna/

https://www.fratellowatches.com/universal-geneve-senna-41-52mondayz-week-41/

https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-213-350

https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2023/important-watches-part-i/daytona-john-player-special-reference-6241-a

https://hairspring.com/finds/1163-viceroy-mh-bezel-heuer-autavia/

Bubba Watson:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9sWVRLUPxHQ (Hovercraft)

https://www.phillips.com/detail/heuer/NY080222/26

https://hairspring.com/finds/1830-iwc-golf-club-sl/

https://watchesbysjx.com/2021/04/iwc-big-pilot-shock-absorber-xpl.html

(Misspoke, 30K G, not 300K G)

Lebron:

https://www.gq.com/story/watches-of-the-week-4-17-21

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/patek-philippe-nautilus-5711-tiffany-blue-phillips-new-york-2021

https://loupethis.com/auctions/patek-philippe-jumbo-nautilus-3700-retailed-by-tiffany-co

https://www.phillips.com/detail/audemars-piguet/CH080222/24

https://www.phillips.com/detail/bulgari/HK080323/8043

https://www.acollectedman.com/products/gerald-genta-skeletonised-perpetual-calendar-white-gold

Joel Embiid:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/is-the-tudor-pelagos-fxd-the-best-watch-of-2021

https://hairspring.com/finds/fp-journe-chronometre-bleu/

https://www.phillips.com/detail/vacheron-constantin/NY080118/72

Patek Philippe:

True Enamel Examples:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-patek-philippe-2526-and-why-its-a-watch-to-pay-attention-to

https://le-monde-edmond.com/patek-3428-platinum-enamel-dial/

https://le-monde-edmond.com/patek-2577-the-elusive-enamel-time-only-watch/

https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/CH080118/268

Engraved Enamel Examples:

https://collectability.com/product/patek-philippe-steel-sector-dial-ref-130a/

https://italianwatchspotter.com/patek-philippe-ref-2499-guide/?lang=en

https://revolutionwatch.com/padellone-patek-philippes-most-elegant-perpetual-calendar-the-3448/

Auction Examples:

https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/NY080124/30

https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/NY080124/39

https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2024/important-watches/reference-1436-a-rare-pink-gold-split-seconds

Only Wrist:

https://hairspring.com/finds/fuerza-aerea-del-peru-fap-2913-8-omega-seamaster-300/

https://www.windvintage.com/ikepod-red-manatee-new-old-stock-full-set

Erik & Max engage in a battle of hot (and lukewarm) contrarian takes for our first audience-sourced Hot Takes episode. Buckle up. Plus, what is the most interesting watch in the world?

Links Mentioned:

https://www.nytimes.com/2024/05/10/arts/design/christies-cyberattack-website.html

https://robbreport.com/style/watch-collector/vintage-cartier-watches-rise-explained-1234871141/

https://www.acollectedman.com/products/octa-sport-titanium-ars2-yellow-dial

https://www.fratellowatches.com/can-microbrands-pull-off-high-end-watchmaking/

https://www.adweek.com/media/hodinkee-crown-caliber/

https://www.rolexforums.com/showthread.php?t=874313

The Most Interesting Man in the World:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fYdwe3ArFWA

Only Wrist:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/h-moser-vantablack-case-2022

https://hairspring.com/finds/onyx-dial-18206-rolex-day-date/

https://hairspring.com/finds/cartier-tank-a-guichet/

https://hairspring.com/finds/5513-7-double-reference-rolex-royal-navy-milsub/

Erik & Max embark on their first collection building exercise: 3 watches from either Rolex or Tudor for 75K US. The catch is we’re requiring one 6-digit, one 5-digit, and one 4-digit watch each. Plus, some deeper thoughts on the way Tudor and Rolex are positioning themselves these days, breaking news, and an Only Wrist for a designer at Ferrari. 

Links Mentioned:

https://www.richardmille.com/collections/rm-s14

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-watches-and-fashion-of-met-gala-2024

Six Digit Discussion:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/rolex-datejust-36-palm-and-fluted-dials-introducing

https://www.phillips.com/article/113102860/rolex-day-date-eisenkiesel

https://timeandtidewatches.com/rolex-explorer-ii-review-reference-216570-42mm/

https://hairspring.com/finds/sas-216570-rolex-explorer-ii/

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-white-gold-rolex-le-mans-daytona-is-discontinued

https://www.rolexforums.com/showthread.php?t=942842

https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2021/watches-online-7/reference-116520-daytona-a-stainless-steel-2

Five Digit:

https://www.fratellowatches.com/matte-dial-rolex-gmt-master-16750/

https://hairspring.com/finds/spider-dial-16750-rolex-gmt-master/

https://hairspring.com/finds/16520-patrizzi-rolex-daytona/

Four Digit:

https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2023/important-watches-2/reference-6105-datejust-ovettone-a-pink-gold

https://tudorcollector.com/collection/example-watch-5/

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-thirteen-milsubs-of-grahame-fowler

Only Wrist:

https://hairspring.com/finds/monoblocco-3525-rolex-chronograph/

https://k2luxury.ch/watches/brand/vacheron-constantin/historiques-american-1921-8203-5000r-b277/

Erik & Max answer one of the great watchmaking debates that’s been raging since chronographs immemorial: 2915 Speedmaster vs 6239 Daytona. It’s a fierce topic which is addressed fairly with total bias. Discussions range from stepped subdials, radium, base 1000 bezels, solo dials, and even the relative merits of V72 and 321. Then, a tour of some fascinating Japanese watchmaking that isn’t Grand Seiko, all independent, from Hajime Asaoka to Norifumi Seki’s independent display pocket watch. Finally, an Only Wrist for an architect with some rather specific demands.

Links Mentioned:

Japanese Watchmaking Tour:

https://www.fratellowatches.com/hajime-asaokas-new-tourbillon-noir-reasserts-the-independent-watchmakers-art-deco-style/

https://deployant.com/review-hajime-asaoka-chronograph/

https://robbreport.com/motors/cars/talbot-lago-most-expensive-french-car-1234668474/

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/one-to-watch-yosuke-sekiguchi

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/norifumi-seki-one-to-watch-hodinkee-japan

https://hairspring.com/exclusives/naoya-hida/type-1d-steel/

https://monochrome-watches.com/introducing-kikuchi-nakagawa-ichimonji-murakumo-japan-independent-watchmaker/

2915 vs 6239 ‘Face’-Off:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/understanding-the-omega-speedmaster-professional

https://speedmaster101.com/2915-2/

https://goldammer.me/blogs/articles/reference-guide-rolex-daytona

https://hairspring.com/finds/paul-newman-6239-rolex-daytona/

https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2022/important-watches/reference-6239-daytona-solo-a-stainless-steel

https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2020/watches-3/rolex-reference-6239-double-swiss-underline

https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/NY080117/8

Only Wrist:

https://langepedia.com/encyclopedia/cabaret/

https://www.alange-soehne.com/us-en/timepieces/cabaret/cabaret-tourbillon-handwerkskunst/cabaret-tourbillon-handwerkskunst-in-950-platinum-703-048

(Correction, the tourbillon dial Erik was thinking of is dark grey and not black)

Erik & Max are back to the serious debates this week, this time the most beautiful lugs of all time. We ask how Instagram has influenced the watches being produced today. And, finally, we couldn’t stay away from discussing the various controversies surrounding a few lots at this year’s Monaco Legend auctions. This ep touches on the RRCC2, Ed White, 3800, and everything in between. Finally, an only wrist for a self-described budget Bill Gates. 

Links Mentioned:

Best Lugs of All Time:

https://hairspring.com/finds/tropical-dial-us-6th-fleet-105-003-65-omega-speedmaster/

https://hairspring.com/exclusives/omega/105-012-65-tropical-dial-speedmaster-steel/

https://hairspring.com/finds/2447nst-heuer-carrera-second-execution-3/

https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/NY080120/10

https://www.acollectedman.com/pages/rexhep-rexhepi-chronometre-contemporain-two

https://italianwatchspotter.com/patek-philippe-ref-2499-guide/?lang=en

https://www.phillips.com/detail/vacheron-constantin/CH080515/131

https://shop.hodinkee.com/products/vacheron-constantin-historiques-cornes-de-vache-1955-limited-edition-for-hodinkee?variant=35842814415

https://hairspring.com/finds/oman-khanjar-dial-3700-patek-philippe-nautilus/

https://hairspring.com/exclusives/vacheron-constantin/46003-222-steel-gold/

https://www.obwcollection.com/product/patek-philippe-ref-2431-yellow-gold-2nd-series

https://onlineonly.christies.com/s/christies-watches-online-watch-out-summer/rolex-oyster-perpetual-bombay-lugs-ref-6090-120/42187

Monaco Legend Group:

https://perezcope.com/2024/04/19/when-monaco-gives-you-lemons-make-lemonade-frankenstein-rolex-daytona-6241-paul-newman-lemon-and-other-beauties/

https://www.monacolegendauctions.com/auction/exclusive-timepieces-33/lot-101

https://www.monacolegendauctions.com/auction/exclusive-timepieces-33/lot-163

Only Wrist:

https://www.phillips.com/detail/audemars-piguet/CH080121/43

https://hairspring.com/finds/tropical-3800-patek-philippe-nautilus/

https://onlineonly.christies.com/s/watches-online-ultimate-collection-ii/patek-philippe-aquanaut-ref-5066j-35/191983

This week is all about specifics of rare vintage watches; Erik & Max cover off some lots from the upcoming spring auctions and use them as muse to talk about some things we don’t see often. Stops at Watches & Wonders, Desert Eagle and Alpine Research Daytonas, special order Cartier bracelets, and 2438 Perpetual Calendars. Plus, what watch should you wear while hunting war criminals in Eastern Europe?

Links Mentioned:

W&W:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-golden-ellipse-is-back-on-bracelet

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/cartier-brings-back-the-tortue-monopusher-chronograph-and-all

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/chopard-brings-a-touch-of-heritage-to-the-luc-xps-with-a-new-forest-green-sector-dial

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-patek-philippe-5330g-world-time-thats-a-low-key-world-first-too

Sothebys:

https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2024/important-watches-part-i/n001-reference-25657pt-a-platinum-perpetual?locale=en

https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2024/important-watches-part-i/daytona-alpine-research-reference-6265-a-stainless?locale=en

https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2024/important-watches-part-i/lange-1-reference-101-001-a-yellow-gold-bracelet?locale=en

Christies:

https://onlineonly.christies.com/s/watches-online-dubai-edit/cartier-paris-tank-reverso-fine-manual-winding-gold-wristwatch-77/221076?ldp_breadcrumb=back

https://onlineonly.christies.com/s/watches-online-dubai-edit/cartier-tank-louis-gold-diamond-sapphire-set-manual-winding-wristwatch-98/221098?ldp_breadcrumb=back

Bracelet Background

https://hairspring.com/finds/pre-cpcp-extra-flat-cartier-tank-louis-with-teardrop-bracelet/

https://onlineonly.christies.com/s/watches-online-dubai-edit/audemars-piguet-royal-oak-ref-25730or-attractive-dual-time-pink-gold-12/221009?ldp_breadcrumb=back

https://onlineonly.christies.com/s/watches-online-dubai-edit/rolex-daytona-ref-6265-rare-important-stainless-steel-chronograph-made-13/221012?ldp_breadcrumb=back

https://onlineonly.christies.com/s/watches-online-dubai-edit/rolex-day-date-ref-18038-crown-khanjar-gold-automatic-wristwatch-48/221049?ldp_breadcrumb=back

Phillips:

https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/CH080224/48

https://www.phillips.com/detail/audemars-piguet/CH080224/49

https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/CH080224/117

https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/CH080224/133

https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/CH080224/142

Watches That Saved Their Makers:

https://www.watchbrotherslondon.com/articles/reference-talk-audemars-piguet-quantieme-perpetual-automatique

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/early-audemars-piguet-royal-oak-perpetual-calendar-in-depth

https://monochrome-watches.com/history-of-the-patek-philippe-calatrava-part-1-reference-96/

https://bulangandsons.com/blogs/watch-talks/rolex-zenith-daytona

Only Wrist:

https://www.phillips.com/detail/heuer/HK080218/998?fromSearch=2446&searchPage=1

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/parmigianis-tonda-pf-rattrapante-gmt-2022-review

This week Erik & Max finish up the Q&A entirely. Is there more room for FP Journe to run? Why are Longines so underrated? And why does Max hate the Japanese (you can tell which one of us writes these)? All these questions and more this week, plus, an Only Wrist for someone who wants to remain neutral at W&W. 

Links Mentioned:

https://www.acollectedman.com/blogs/journal/longines-13zn-still-collectible

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-longines-master-collection-small-seconds

https://le.hodinkee.com/longines-zulu-time-for-hodinkee

https://www.rescapement.com/blog/early-longines-dive-watches-a-brief-history

https://hairspring.com/finds/longines-1268z-sector-dial/

https://hairspring.com/finds/cartier-cpcp-1575-santos-dumont/

https://hairspring.com/finds/slate-dial-2960-cartier-santos-carree-2/

https://www.bloomberg.com/news/articles/2023-08-25/rolex-patek-watch-prices-keep-falling-as-cartier-rises-subdial-index

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/a-collectors-guide-to-vintage-1970s-cartier-watches

https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/CH080224/133

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/a-lange-and-sohne-1815-rattrapante-honeygold-introducing

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/found-selfridge-seagrave-earhart-patek-philippe-split

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/introducing-the-urwerk-ur-110-zrn-torpedo-the-second-in-a-se

Only Wrist:

https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6212787

https://onlineonly.christies.com/s/watches-online-dubai-edit/rolex-oyster-perpetual-ref-6105-rare-attractive-automatic-wristwatch-85/181695

https://www.thewatchboutique.com/en/product/record-geneve-chronograph-calendar/