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In our first exclusive episode on Substack (yay!), we discuss the Ibiza fashion craze, unpacking the sparkling, sunset-hued resortwear fantasy that looms over the coming summer. Using our revolutionary theory of “trickle-down Ibizanomics,” we leave no sequin unturned, from the couture treasure trove of Annie’s Ibiza to the injection-molded accessories of Amazon influencer storefronts. We analyze the aesthetic’s cultural context through the Balearic club scene’s seedy history, 2000s rom-com costuming, White Lotus hypergamy discourse, EDM tourism, traditional Indian fashion, the moodboard-to-stimboard-to-vision board pipeline, and more.
In this week's episode, we take a deep dive into Grisch, the fascinating niche style gaining traction among Sweden's affluent youth. Drawing on our listeners' firsthand accounts and a century of Scandinavian cultural history, we dissect its surprisingly long lineage— from fin-de-siècle dandies and Eurotrash dudebros to gangster rappers and old money influencers—all culminating in a high-stakes world of designer denim, puffer vests, and luxury low-profile sneakers. We ponder how the complex relationship between class, age, nationalism, and masculinity embodied by Grisch might result in its global domination.
Special thanks to Charles, Elsa, Justine, Iman, Matilda, Ebba, and Jesper for their insights!
Links:
Image board
Selected TikToks: 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7
Chris Heyn Jr. on TikTok
eric_roth2 on TikTok
Marcus Rolf on TikTok
Your Ultimate Guide to Scandinavian Fashion by The Daily Scandinavian
About Us – Garde Grisch
De Vet Du – Sture P (Music Video)
Peder Fogstrand aka Greven
"The Law of Jante" (on Janteloven) by Michael Booth for The Paris Review
The Murder of Einar (Swedish rap legend) – YouTube
Azealia Banks announces her move to Stockholm in Swedish radio interview
Yung Lean @subwaytakes Interview
Consumers that are middle and upper class in Nordic countries 2024 – Statista
In this episode, journalistic superstar Ezra Marcus joins us to chronicle his journey from the ashes of millennial digital media to the frontlines of today's most exciting investigative reporting. We extol his epic track record—the Sarah Lawrence sex cult, the culinary horror story of Horses, the galaxy gas epidemic, and more— and discover what draws him to the shady fraudster kingpins that personify online hustle culture. We also discuss the true crime documentary slop machine, moonlighting as a party-pumping DJ, the idea that men are the new women, and what it means to stand at the brink of the Chinese century.
Links:
Ezra Marcus's Website
Ezra Marcus on Instagram
Some of Ezra's greatest hits:
The Next Drug Epidemic is Blue Raspberry Flavored
The Package King of Miami
The Stolen Kids of Sarah Lawrence
The Cat Who Could Kill Horses
The ‘E-Pimps’ of OnlyFans
How Do You Make a Weed Empire?
In this edition of Study Break, we discuss the Hollyweirdness of the Oscars (notably that James Bond humiliation ritual), Pretty Little Thing's rebrand from Love Island resortwear to halal clean girl prison clothes, the Losercore undertones of Prada's FW 2025 show, the abjection of the Shrek 5 trailer and the gravity of Shrek's highbrow legacy, the revolt against millennial burger joints and craft breweries, plus Biz makes a special announcement.
Links:
James Bond Musical Tribute at the 97th Oscars (Lisa, Doja Cat, Raye)
Pretty Little Thing
Featured PLT monstrosities: sage tailored cropped blazer/dress, burgundy soft rib two piece set, grey bardot ruched dress
PLT founder Umar Kamani on their rebrand – Drapers
Boohoo/PLT/Nasty Gal class action settlement
Prada Fall 2025 Ready-to-Wear Collection on Vogue Runway
Shrek 5 Official Trailer on YouTube
Euphoria Season 3's "Silver Slipper" strip club
Kyle Gordon's "We Will Never Die" on TikTok
Millennial burger spot roast on TikTok
Tate McRae – Revolving door (Official Music Video)
Flew out to Atlanta TikTok storytime (Girl's POV)
Flew out to Atlanta TikTok storytime (Boy's POV)
Appalachian hair texture discourse on TikTok
Stephanie Soo/Rotten Mango Ash Trevino Deep Dive on YouTube
In this edition of Study Break, we discuss the Hollyweirdness of the Oscars (notably that James Bond humiliation ritual), Pretty Little Thing's rebrand from Love Island resortwear to halal clean girl prison clothes, the Losercore undertones of Prada's FW 2025 show, the abjection of the Shrek 5 trailer and the gravity of Shrek's highbrow legacy, the revolt against millennial burger joints and craft breweries, plus Biz makes a special announcement.
Join our Patreon for more episodes and early access to Biz's top secret project!
Links:
James Bond Musical Tribute at the 97th Oscars (Lisa, Doja Cat, Raye)
Pretty Little Thing
Featured PLT monstrosities: sage tailored cropped blazer/dress, burgundy soft rib two piece set, grey bardot ruched dress
PLT founder Umar Kamani on their rebrand – Drapers
Boohoo/PLT/Nasty Gal class action settlement
Prada Fall 2025 Ready-to-Wear Collection on Vogue Runway
Shrek 5 Official Trailer on YouTube
Euphoria Season 3's "Silver Slipper" strip club
Kyle Gordon's "We Will Never Die" on TikTok
Millennial burger spot roast on TikTok
Tate McRae – Revolving door (Official Music Video)
Flew out to Atlanta TikTok storytime (Girl's POV)
Flew out to Atlanta TikTok storytime (Boy's POV)
Appalachian hair texture discourse on TikTok
Stephanie Soo/Rotten Mango Ash Trevino Deep Dive on YouTube
In this week's episode, we discuss the legacy of Losercore, an aesthetic of the late 90s and early 2000s that celebrated the awkwardness of young adulthood and the sartorial idiosyncrasies of social outcasts, from orthodontia and ill-fitting gym uniforms to wire-frame glasses and dishwater-blond hair. We analyze the socioeconomic conditions that led to this period of loser glorification, identify key players (Todd Solondz, Paul Dano), cinematic touchstones (Napoleon Dynamite, Little Miss Sunshine), and generational anthems ("Teenage Dirtbag," "Buddy Holly"), and reflect on how the Internet has transformed today's young losers into threats to themselves and others.
Links:
Image board
"The Birth—and Maybe Death—of Yuppiedom" by Walter Shapiro for Time
"Loser: The Hero of the 1990s" by Grunge Included on Substack
The Trap by Adam Curtis
The Nineties by Chuck Klosterman
@yungkombucha420 on TikTok
"Americans Need to Party More" by Ellen Cushing for The Atlantic
"The Anti-Social Century" by Derek Thompson for The Atlantic
Loser Generated Content: From Participation to Exploitation by Soren Mork Petersen
Billie Eilish on having no friends
Celebrity with no friends blind item ("not Jessica Chastain")
Emma Chamberlain closet video
Bed rot talking stage TikTok /
"Love in the Time of Bed Rotting" by Isabel Unhinged on Substack
"The Story Behind The Song: Beck and the crowning of the ‘Loser’ generation" – Far Out
Teenage Dirtbag – Wheatus (Offical Music Video)
Buddy Holly – Weezer (Official Music Video)
Losercore TikTok boys: Slushy Noobz, Thomathy, Ben Awad, William Conrad
Marc Jacobs, Circa 2003: Long Hair, Neck Brace & Sweaty (PHOTO)
Prada Spring/Summer 1996
Marc Jacobs Spring 1999
Marc Jacobs Fall 1999
Vetements Fall 2019 Menswear
Balenciaga Pre-Fall 2021
"Gucci's Beautiful Losers Hit New York" – Business of Fashion
"The Book of Gucci According to Alessandro Michele" – 032c
"Student Teaches Teacher" aka Jeff Bliss aka Friggin Packet Yo (Original YouTube Video)
"Who's Afraid of Hasan Piker?" – Slate
"Still Life (Betamale)" by Jon Rafman
Party in their Blood – Cloudy Heart (Official Music Video)
Bully (formerly @bully.incel.simp.hero)
Duane Hanson – Saatchi Gallery
Dadsgiving by Chris Maggio
This week, we are joined by special guest Evan Collins — architect, design archivist, and cofounder of Consumer Aesthetics Research Institute — for a conversation about the Institute's pioneering work in coining and defining the most fascinating aesthetics of the past half-century, including Indie Sleaze, Frutiger Aero, McBling, Whimsigothic, Shoe Diva, and many more. We discuss his foundational research into the Y2K aesthetic, the consumer incorporation of subculture, the challenges of community-based digital archiving, the benefit of researching ugly and unfashionable visual culture, and more.
Links:
Consumer Aesthetics Research Institute Official Website
CARI on Are.na
Evan Collins on Are.na
Evan Collins on Patreon (access to 700+ books and magazines!)
Art Deco of the 20s and 30s by Bevis Hillier
Blobjects and Beyond: The New Fluidity in Design by Steven Skov Holt and Mara Holt Skov
Full episode available on Patreon <3
In this edition of Study Break, we discuss the TikTok ban fakeout, Andrea Dworkin's Right-Wing Women, the inauguration party coverage heard around the world, the consequences of Trumpism on critical beauty studies, the true meaning of Eusexua in a post-Brat society, and more. Also, Sam finally reviews Emilia Perez.
Links:
Watch Vica's New Atlas Reels on Instagram
Johanne Sacrebleu (Emilia Perez parody)
Zoe Saldaña - La Vaginoplastia (From Emilia Perez)
Karla Sofía Gascón's crazy tweet archive
Right-Wing Women by Andrea Dworkin
Candace Owens on Blake Lively vs. Justin Baldoni
Dr. Natalya (Natalya Toryanski) on TikTok
"The Cruel Kids Table" by Brock Colyar for New York magazine
Michelle Santiago Cortés on the Pursuit of Hotness
Sean Monahan on the Boom Boom Aesthetic
Tate McCrae ordering drinks behind the scenes of "Sports Car"
Tate McCrae – Sports Car (Official Music Video)
Listen to exclusive episodes here <3
In this edition of Study Break, we discuss the TikTok ban fakeout, Andrea Dworkin's Right-Wing Women, the inauguration party coverage heard around the world, the consequences of Trumpism on critical beauty studies, the true meaning of Eusexua in a post-Brat society, and more. Also, Sam finally reviews Emilia Perez.
Links:
Watch Vica's New Atlas Reels on Instagram
Johanne Sacrebleu (Emilia Perez parody)
Zoe Saldaña - La Vaginoplastia (From Emilia Perez)
Karla Sofía Gascón's crazy tweet archive
Right-Wing Women by Andrea Dworkin
Candace Owens on Blake Lively vs. Justin Baldoni
Dr. Natalya (Natalya Toryanski) on TikTok
"The Cruel Kids Table" by Brock Colyar for New York magazine
Michelle Santiago Cortés on the Pursuit of Hotness
Sean Monahan on the Boom Boom Aesthetic
Tate McCrae ordering drinks behind the scenes of "Sports Car"
Tate McCrae – Sports Car (Official Music Video)
Listen to exclusive episodes here <3
In this week's episode, we investigate the rise of what we're calling Geometrica, the edgy, STEM-influenced design trend that ruled the 2000s and 2010s. We talk about the iconic looks of Lady Gaga's The Fame, triangle-induced Illuminati hysteria, Obama-era techno-optimism, second-generation k-pop music videos, Alexander McQueen's historic Plato's Atlantis collection, and much more.
Links: Image boardCubism and Fashion – Met Gala 1998 Press ReleaseCubsim and Fashion by Richard MartinAlexander McQueen Spring 2010 (Plato's Atlantis) – Vogue RunwaySHOWstudio: Plato's Atlantis by Alexander McQueen (archived livestream)The McQueen Show that Changed the Future of Fashion – DAZEDEssay: Nick Knight on "Plato's Atlantis" – SHOWstudioTop by @perlaz0ne on InstagramImogen Heap's MiMU GlovesIris Van Herpen Spring 2010 (Crystallized)Mary Katrantzou Spring 2009 (Graduate Collection)Mary Katrantzou Fall 2011Basso & Brooke Fall 2009Lady Gaga and Daphne Guinness for V Magazine (2015)Daphne Guinness / Nick Knight / Noritaka Tatehana: Floating World – SHOWstudio2NE1 - 내가 제일 잘 나가(I AM THE BEST) M/VPSY - GANGNAM STYLE(강남스타일) M/VBIGBANG - FANTASTIC BABY M/VGirls' Generation 소녀시대 'I GOT A BOY' MVAsians Wear Clothes on the Internet by Minh-Ha T. Pham20 Years of Issey Miyake's Bao Bao Bag – The GuardianSaudi Arabia asks Hans Zimmer to rework national anthem – The GuardianComme des Garçons Fall 2012La Maison GagaSpecial thank you to Telle from our Discord for this episode idea!
Listen to exclusive episodes here <3
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