Openwork: Inside the Watch Industry

On this episode of Openwork, we explore the watches that shaped both the watch industry and global culture. Our focus is on the modern era—from the Quartz Crisis to today.

Each of us selects three watches that transformed the industry, influenced how we collect, and left their mark far beyond the world of horology. We also each choose the most important industry executive of the same period.

For full show notes, including details on all watches, visit collectivehorology.com/blog.

Hosted by Asher Rapkin and Gabe Reilly, co-founders of Collective Horology, Openwork goes inside the watch industry.

You can find us online at collectivehorology.com. To get in touch with suggestions, feedback or questions, email [email protected].

On July 31, the United States announced a new reciprocal tariff rate of 39% on imports from Switzerland, starting August 7, 2025. These tariffs have sweeping implications for the Swiss watch industry and the global watch industry more broadly.

On this episode of Openwork we discuss those effects, along with what to look for next. How will negotiations play out? And how will the watch industry navigate future tariffs?

Hosted by Asher Rapkin and Gabe Reilly, co-founders of Collective Horology, Openwork goes inside the watch industry.

You can find us online at collectivehorology.com. To get in touch with suggestions, feedback or questions, email [email protected].

Today, it’s cars vs. watches. In particular, we’re looking at the automotive world, which is often compared to the watch industry—including on this podcast—to see what it might teach us about watches.

Our guest is Wesley Smith, the founder of STANDARD H, a California-based apparel and lifestyle brand inspired by his lifelong passions for cars, watches, travel, and design. With over 20 years of retail experience—from surf shops to luxury brands like Gucci and James Perse—Wesley launched STANDARD H in 2015 to create purpose-driven clothing and content rooted in movement and community.

Wesley is also the host of the STANDARD H Podcast to which we’d recommend you all subscribe, and he started his career in the automotive industry.

Hosted by Asher Rapkin and Gabe Reilly, co-founders of Collective Horology, Openwork goes inside the watch industry.

You can find us online at collectivehorology.com. To get in touch with suggestions, feedback or questions, email [email protected].

Today we’re talking about the rise of certified pre-owned programs – the current state of the CPO universe, the value of those programs, and where it’s all going.

And to do that, we have the perfect returning guest, Hamza Masood of WatchCharts – the world's most comprehensive, transparent and trusted source of watch market data. Hamza and WatchCharts were among the first to track and call-out the rise and growing importance of certified pre-owned programs.

Hosted by Asher Rapkin and Gabe Reilly, co-founders of Collective Horology, Openwork goes inside the watch industry.

You can find us online at collectivehorology.com. To get in touch with suggestions, feedback or questions, email [email protected].

We’re half way through 2025, which has turned out to be a very eventful year to say the least, and that very much shows up in the data for the watch market. So today we’re looking at all the data sources we can muster to understand just how the watch industry is faring at the midway point of 2025, and where it might be heading next.

We looked at a wide variety of sources from WatchCharts, to trade press, to FHS export data and more. We’ll do our best to cite everything as we chat, but as always a full list of sources can be found at collectivehorology.com/blog.

Hosted by Asher Rapkin and Gabe Reilly, co-founders of Collective Horology, Openwork goes inside the watch industry.

You can find us online at collectivehorology.com. To get in touch with suggestions, feedback or questions, email [email protected].

Having made the transition from watch enthusiasts to industry insiders and retailers in particular, we’ve come to realize that there are often big gaps between what commands attention in watch media and among collectors vs. the commercial realities.

Many of the so-called “truths” we hold sacred as enthusiasts aren’t really true after all. So today on Openwork, we’re myth busting – taking a look at some of the widely held beliefs in the watch community that are actually in fact misconceptions.

For show notes, including links to more information, visit collectivehorology.com/blog.

Hosted by Asher Rapkin and Gabe Reilly, co-founders of Collective Horology, Openwork goes inside the watch industry.

You can find us online at collectivehorology.com. To get in touch with suggestions, feedback or questions, email [email protected].

We discuss watchmaking in America – specifically what’s required to bring watchmaking at scale back to the United States. It’s a hot topic these days, particularly as U.S. tariffs, which have been dominating the news, are intended at least in part to bring manufacturing back to the United States. So with that in mind, we thought it would be worth taking a look at what would actually be required to restore the American watch industry.

Our guest today is Josh Shapiro, an American independent watchmaker. Based in Los Angeles, and together with a team of watchmakers, engineers and machinists, Josh is bringing watchmaking of the highest level back to the United States. In fact, his latest creation, the Resurgence, is currently the only watch to meet the standard of “made in America” as defined by the United States Federal Trade Commission.

For show notes, including links to more information, visit collectivehorology.com/blog.

Hosted by Asher Rapkin and Gabe Reilly, co-founders of Collective Horology, Openwork goes inside the watch industry.

You can find us online at collectivehorology.com. To get in touch with suggestions, feedback or questions, email [email protected].

Editorial integrity and independence in the watch world. It’s a hot topic, and one we’ve explored before. But that was before today’s guest penned her open letter to the watch industry published in Robb Report titled: "Watch Execs Need to Learn to Respect Journalistic Boundaries."

Victoria Gomelsky is editor-in-chief of JCK, a New York City-based jewelry trade publication founded in 1869. Her writing on watches, jewelry and travel has appeared in the New York Times, Robb Report, WSJ Magazine, and the Hollywood Reporter, among many others.

For detailed show notes, including links to more information, visit collectivehorology.com/blog.

Hosted by Asher Rapkin and Gabe Reilly, co-founders of Collective Horology, Openwork goes inside the watch industry.

You can find us online at collectivehorology.com. To get in touch with suggestions, feedback or questions, email [email protected].

We’re going inside the industry response to the double whammy of US tariffs and foreign exchange rates. We’re going to address common myths, offer a look behind the scenes at the industry response, and discuss the implications for watchmaking in the US.

For detailed show notes, including links to more information, visit collectivehorology.com/blog.

Hosted by Asher Rapkin and Gabe Reilly, co-founders of Collective Horology, Openwork goes inside the watch industry.

You can find us online at collectivehorology.com. To get in touch with suggestions, feedback or questions, email [email protected].

We delve into the results of the Spring 2025 Collective Voice Survey, our twice-yearly report on how collectors feel about all things watches.

Our Spring 2025 survey offers a fresh look at what’s on the minds of watch enthusiasts—what excites them, what frustrates them, and how those feelings translate (or don’t) into actual buying behavior. Just like our inaugural survey in Summer 2024, this round was packed with thoughtful, candid, and occasionally contradictory responses.

Full survey results are available at collectivehorology.com/blog.

Hosted by Asher Rapkin and Gabe Reilly, co-founders of Collective Horology, Openwork goes inside the watch industry.

You can find us online at collectivehorology.com. To get in touch with suggestions, feedback or questions, email [email protected].