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David has some news: he's going back into the restaurant business and this time, it's personal. On the theme of milestones, he invites the owners of two renowned Montréal neighbourhood restaurants, Josh Crowe and Barbara Irwin of Taverne, to celebrate their 30th anniversary.
Lesley starts by grilling David on Grille-Nature, described as a labour of love that will serve market-driven classics at affordable prices. It's a partnership with fellow chef and farmer Derek Dammann, an ambitious suburban project in Montréal's West Island that replaces a burger joint in the underappreciated Marché de l'Ouest. Lesley may even make some desserts... What does it take to run a successful neighbourhood spot that can stand the test of time? The question is candidly explored in a few different ways, like expansion strategy and cultivating regulars; but even prior to Joe Beef, David was always inspired by Taverne's ambitious cuisine in an area that, three decades ago, had few upscale or market options. After a five-year hiatus from the restaurant business, he is feeling inspired again and will be discussing Grille-Nature developments on the podcast as he aims for a late fall opening. Follow David & Lesley on Instagram.Salt Lick is a TNKR Media Original Production.
As Lesley wraps up her trip to Burgundy, the hosts press Mike for insight on how he managed to grow French grapes like Chardonnay that survive Canada's harsh winters. David describes Mike's Chardonnay vintages as the best in the country many years; Les Pervenches went fully organic and biodynamic by 2008, helping to fuel a wave of Montréal natural wine bars.
Wondering where to buy Les Pervenches? Only about one in ten bottles end up in grocery stores because demand from private clients like specialty grocers, importers and restaurants has been so ferocious; a testament to Mike and partner Véronique Hupin's commitment to both winemaking and regenerative agriculture.
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Salt Lick is a TNKR Media Original Production.
They share their own stories about summer heat, drought and travel. Also on the menu, irrigation bans in France, rising food prices in Québec and whether Michelin stars elevate or distort restaurant culture, with stops in Québec City and detours discussing Chablis and the economics of Canadian cheese.
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Salt Lick is a TNKR Media Original Production.
Along the way, David talks about a community dinner he prepared in Prince Edward County, and Lesley shares a deep dive into Montréal's most meticulous sushi counter. The conversation closes on a tougher note, and listener discretion is advised: allegations of abuse in restaurants, candid reflections on the hosts' own experiences and how the industry has evolved with #metoo movement scrutiny.
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Salt Lick is a TNKR Media Original Production.
There's nothing bland about the vanilla industry, argues a Montrealer who has been one of the most important industrial importers of the orchid since the early 1990s.
David van der Walde, Director of Aust & Hachmann Canada, joins Lesley & David for a deep dive on one of the planet's most ubiquitous ingredients, a product as essential for industrial flavour companies as the world's top pâtissiers; how vanilla is farmed, challenges in its distribution, and why its cost has been so historically volatile. He also explains how companies like Häagen-Dazs are able to elevate their products through specialized vanilla sourcing, and if he feels Madagascar's farmers are getting a raw deal.
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Salt Lick is a TNKR Media Original Production.
Lesley and David agree that Marc-André Royal is one of Canada's most underrated chef-owners, a talented market cook and impressive entrepreneur.
The Montréal chef-owner of Le St-Urbain recently earned a recommendation in the first edition of Québec's Michelin Guide, and his three (soon to be four) Bête à Pain bakeries are wildly popular with some locals even suggesting he makes the city's best croissant.
Lesley's glowing 2009 review of Le St-Urbain set the tone among critics who have had little to offer as criticism since: "Royal has, with his food, rejuvenated a sleepy part of the city," and his success story offers inspiration to would-be chef-owners on surviving the restaurant startup phase, maximizing one's space, and creating different revenue streams.
"Marc-André Royal made waves by opening a pretty bare-bones restaurant on a limited budget," Lesley wrote in a Montréal Gazette piece listing him among the most influential restaurateurs of his generation, "and making back his money in six short months."
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Salt Lick is a TNKR Media Original Production.
David shares some A-lister anecdotes and his mixed feelings about the testosterone-charged bash that kicks off Montréal's festival season, just as news breaks of a decade-long contract renewal between the city and Formula 1.
But first, Lesley and David get into the quintessential summer drink: lemonade. They share tips on how to make it on the cheap for a crowd, how to dress it up with homemade syrups, and how to turn leftover rinds into lemon sugar.
Then, much of the discussion focuses on the Canadian Grand Prix, which has taken place in Montréal since the '70s, and the impact this prestigious event has had on the city's fine dining scene; about a month of sales over one weekend, David estimates, for some well-placed restaurants.
Names dropped include: Danny Devito, Jacques Villeneuve, Sylvester Stallone, Gene Hackman (RIP), Matthew McConaughey, Bruce Willis and George Harrison—that was just one table David's team served at Globe one Saturday night in the early aughts.
Also, in the kitchen, some underrated sources of protein like squid, pinto or cowboy beans, and hanger steak, with David revealing the recipe to his pungent go-to condiment for beef; watch our Instagram account for that and Lesley's recipe for the original chocolate lava cake by the late Nicolas Jongleux.
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Salt Lick is a TNKR Media Original Production.
It's grilling season for Canadians and David has some tips on how to plan and execute an epic locally-sourced BBQ extravaganza: what fresh meats to look for, making your own sausage, grilling techniques, marinades and sauces, unconventional meat choices like rabbit and duck... He also gets into the benefits of the traditional 'black egg' barbeques and new internet-enabled high-tech smokers.
Many culinary detours on this episode of Salt Lick: Lesley has read all the BBQ cookbooks and offers recommendations. As she is experimenting with nut butters, David is spending a lot of time on the tractor and talks more about springtime vineyard management and dealing with wildlife challenges like deer overpopulation, ending with a discussion about how to treat lobster with respect; grilling lobsters, by the way, is tricky and David suggests you boil them, and don't dress them up.
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Salt Lick is a TNKR Media Original Production.
The international standard in restaurant reviewing, the Michelin Guide, has finally arrived and Québec restaurants will never be the same... or does the hype even matter?
David and Lesley unpack some of the Michelin results, why they are important to some restaurateurs but not others, and what it takes to become a Michelin-calibre establishment.
Lesley also discusses receiving the highest honour bestowed on citizens in her hometown, the Order of Montréal, for her nearly four decades of writing about food and culture. On the farm, David shares a sad update about his favourite hen Brownie while a rescued rabbit named Romulus joins the McMillan household; both have been pets and won't end up on the dinner table but, while we're on the subject, David shares a dependable recipe for lapin confit.
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Salt Lick is a TNKR Media Original Production.
Ari Schor, co-owner of Montréal's Beba restaurant, opens up to the hosts about challenges that chefs face in maintaining work-life balance and systemic changes he's made to improve his team's quality of life. While David is uncomfortable with the idea of having protégés, Ari is grateful for the mentorship; the Argentenian-born restaurateur emphasizes the importance of quality market ingredients and prefers serving them in a cozy, intimate setting.
The conversation was recorded a few days before the Michelin Guide for Québec was released, where Ari earned a recommendation but not, perhaps controversially, a star.
Next time on Salt Lick: David and Lesley break down the Michelin results and the discussions that have resulted.
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Salt Lick is a TNKR Media Original Production.
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