The Climbing Majority

I think you would agree that there is arguably no rock formation more infamous than El Cap . With its massive presence in the development of North American climbing, iconic size, and technical challenges, it stands as a beacon for climbers worldwide to test their abilities on a sea of stone. When we start climbing, El Cap is often at the forefront of our minds—a dream expressed as “Man, I would love to climb that one day.” But how many of us actually take the steps to make that dream a reality? Sometimes it feels like El Cap is reserved for the pros.

Today, we sit down with previous guests Bryce Ungersma and Evan Geller, two recreational climbers who turned their dream of climbing El Cap into a reality. On May 22nd, they joined the ranks of climbers who have summited El Cap after successfully completing “The Nose” in 3.5 days. We are here to tell their story.

This conversation is split into two one-hour segments. First, we dive into what it was like for Bryce and Evan to make the mental switch from “I want to climb that one day” to “This is real and this is happening.” We’ll explore their training, planning, and preparation, and then discuss the food, water, gear, permits, and logistics needed to get established on the wall.

Their story is a reminder to continue chasing our dreams and pushing the boundaries of what we think is possible for ourselves.

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Don’t forget to check our our full video episodes on Youtube!

The TCM movement is growing but we need your help to spread the word! Please share this podcast with your friends and family. Word of mouth is one of the best ways to support the show. If you enjoyed the show we’d really appreciate it if you could rate and review us on your favorite podcatcher.

We are always looking for new guests. If you or someone you know would be a great fit for the show please don’t hesitate to reach out. You can reach us on IG or email us directly @ [email protected]

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Resources

Bryce's Instagram

Evan's Instagram

Today, we are continuing our conversation with Evan Wisheropp. If you missed part one, I highly recommend checking it out first. It provides a foundation for understanding who Evan is as a climber and how he achieved the objectives we’re discussing today.

In this episode, we’ll dive into Evan’s two main passions: desert offwidth splitters and route development.

First, we’ll discuss Evan’s recent send of The Cleaver, a 13b offwidth roof crack that, as Evan puts it, "contains all the hardest transitions of sizes that offwidth can offer, jumping from a splitter #2 to a #6 in less than 10 feet." We chat about the logistics and skills involved in sending not only this particular climb but all offwidths. We’ll also dive into his next offwidth project, an extension to the infamous Belly Full of Bad Berries.

Next, we’ll explore Evan’s passion for route development. Initially, Evan started developing routes because he ran out of 5.12s to climb in his local area. This quest for more climbs turned into a huge passion. Over the last nine years, he has established an impressive 475 routes in the Northwest region of California, investing nearly $60,000 of his own money. Many of these areas remain largely unknown to the public, offering hundreds of cleaned, bolted classic routes up to grade 5.13 with only a handful of ascents.

Evan lives near the Redwoods, the largest trees in the world, situated on the Pacific coastline. His local crags are nestled in these magical areas, featuring rocky coastlines and massive Jurassic trees towering hundreds of feet tall. He recently published a guidebook for these areas, which you can check out in the show notes.

Our conversation with Evan is a reminder of how much we can take for granted as climbers. We often show up to a climb that has been found, cleaned, and bolted, and leave without a thought of all the work that went into making that happen and who that person was. We feel honored to tell Evan’s story and hope to spread some awareness, not only of his accomplishments and significant contributions to the sport of climbing but to route developers everywhere.

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Don’t forget to check our our full video episodes on Youtube!

The TCM movement is growing but we need your help to spread the word! Please share this podcast with your friends and family. Word of mouth is one of the best ways to support the show. If you enjoyed the show we’d really appreciate it if you could rate and review us on your favorite podcatcher.

We are always looking for new guests. If you or someone you know would be a great fit for the show please don’t hesitate to reach out. You can reach us on IG or email us directly @ [email protected]

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Cover Photo: @amanda_paints

Resources

The Cleaver

Evan's Instagram

Evan's Youtube

A Climbers Guide to Northwest California

Evan's Photography

Today, we are sitting down with Evan Wisheropp, a part-time professional photographer with a full-time passion for climbing.

Evan's climbing journey began like many of ours—in a gym. From there, he explored various climbing disciplines until he found his true passions: desert offwidths and route development.

Off-width climbing, takes Evan  to Indian Creek and Moab, Utah, every year to tackle massive desert offwidth splitters. His latest project, The Cleaver, a 13b offwidth roof Evan spotted while scouting…. After several failed attempts, he handed the first ascent to the Wide Boyz but returned the next season to redpoint the route and film a short documentary about the experience.

When he is not suffering up desert offwidths Evan spends his time climbing and developing new routes in the Northwest region of California. He began developing routes back in 2014. Since then, he has created an impressive 475 routes. Over the past nine years, Evan has personally invested nearly $60,000 to develop the limestone crags of Northern California. Many of these areas remain largely unknown to the public, offering hundreds of cleaned, bolted classic routes with only a handful of ascents.

This conversation is split into two parts. First, we’ll journey back in time to explore how Evan became the climber he is today. We’ll dive into three traumatic climbing accidents that shaped his progression, his relationship with trad gear, and his perspective on taking risks. Our conversation reminds us how dangerous climbing can be, but more importantly, how we can learn and grow from our mistakes and still recover a deep passion for climbing and the outdoors. 

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Don’t forget to check our our full video episodes on Youtube!

The TCM movement is growing but we need your help to spread the word! Please share this podcast with your friends and family. Word of mouth is one of the best ways to support the show. If you enjoyed the show we’d really appreciate it if you could rate and review us on your favorite podcatcher.

We are always looking for new guests. If you or someone you know would be a great fit for the show please don’t hesitate to reach out. You can reach us on IG or email us directly @ [email protected]

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Resources

Evan's Instagram

Evan's Youtube

A Climbers Guide to Northwest California

Evan's Photography

Hey everyone, thanks for tuning in and for being a part of The Climbing Majority. Today, we're diving into part two of our conversation with Myles Moser. If you missed part one, I highly recommend going back to the previous episode before continuing.

This episode is PACKED with stories that will keep you on the edge of your seat. So I will keep this introduction brief. First we explore Myles' incredible experience establishing the first ascent of his route 'Plate Tectonics,' a 21-pitch Grade VI 5.12 C1 on the east face of the North Tower of Torres Del Paine in Patagonia—a 3000ft unclimbed vertical face deemed simply too dangerous by local climbers.. We then discuss his attempt on the Central Tower of Torres del Paine and a climbing accident that left him with a broken ankle 1600 ft off the ground. All I can say after listening to these stories, is that Myles is lucky to be alive and that he is probably one of the most determined and mentally tough men I’ve ever met. Also, the scale and seriousness of these objectives are almost too intense to truly comprehend. Myles has a Youtube channel and I HIGHLY recommend check it out after this episode to help gain some context to the stories he shares in this episode.

Finally, wrap up our conversation by discussing Myles' future objectives and get to reflect on why he chose now to break his seven years of silence…with these remarkable stories of radical first ascents….

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Don’t forget to check our our full video episodes on Youtube!

The TCM movement is growing but we need your help to spread the word! Please share this podcast with your friends and family. Word of mouth is one of the best ways to support the show. If you enjoyed the show we’d really appreciate it if you could rate and review us on your favorite podcatcher.

We are always looking for new guests. If you or someone you know would be a great fit for the show please don’t hesitate to reach out. You can reach us on IG or email us directly @ [email protected]

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Resources

Learn about Plate Tectonics Grade VI 5.12 C1

Learn about Una Fina Linea De Locura Grade VII 5.12 A3

Myles' Youtube

In today’s world, where social media, technology, and commercialism are at the forefront of our minds, the reasons why we climb can sometimes get a bit confusing. Professional climbers often need an “audience” for brands to market their products to, and climbers everywhere, myself included, share videos and photos of our recent ascents. It makes you wonder… why do we climb? Is it truly for personal satisfaction, or are we chasing clout and recognition for our achievements?

For Myles, this era of “clout chasing” and immediately posting about our climbing is completely against his ethos. He climbs for himself, for his personal exploration as both a climber and a creator. Over the last seven years Myles has even turned down pro contracts in order to dedicate his life to his personal goals of putting up countless dangerous, massive alpine multi-pitch first ascents in the Whitney Portal area and in Patagonia. Most of these routes have never been repeated,and never shared with anyone. For some of them this is the first time the world is hearing about them.. The seriousness and complexity of these routes can’t be overstated—one even got him nominated for the Piolets d'Or, one of the most prestigious international mountaineering awards. Myles has built a successful contracting business, allowing him to self-fund his objectives and first ascents. He doesn’t feel pressure from brands or the need to monetize his climbing in any way and instead relies on his own skills, his partners, and a lot of luck to pull off these truly inspiring and bold new routes. 

Today, we’re opening up Myles’ black book of climbing topos and breaking his seven years of silence. We get to discuss what he’s been up to, the routes he’s developed, and the incredible stories from these years of establishing some of the gnarliest routes the climbing world has seen. Myles also shares a refreshing narrative that reminds us to reflect on the reasons why we climb, how we choose our routes, and how much danger we put ourselves in. Are we climbing for ourselves or for recognition from others?

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Don’t forget to check our our full video episodes on Youtube!

The TCM movement is growing but we need your help to spread the word! Please share this podcast with your friends and family. Word of mouth is one of the best ways to support the show. If you enjoyed the show we’d really appreciate it if you could rate and review us on your favorite podcatcher.

We are always looking for new guests. If you or someone you know would be a great fit for the show please don’t hesitate to reach out. You can reach us on IG or email us directly @ [email protected]

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Welcome back to part two of our chat with James Barrow! In our last episode, we heard about James' journey as a climber and what events ultimately lead to his most recent achievement: The Complete Towers of the Virgin Traverse. A link up that covers 20 distinct peaks, and 18.5k of elevation gain over 28 miles. The terrain involves runouts upon runouts, canyoneering, bushwacking, steep snow travel, soloing, and an abundance of massive full 70m rappels using a fiddle stick. At 5.9+R/M2R. Nothing of this length or technical difficulty has been done in Zion in over 20 years. 

Today, we're diving into a step-by-step trip report. We'll cover the major milestones, close calls, and all the intricate details of this massive desert alpine link up.

If you haven't already, I highly recommend doing a bit of homework on The Complete Towers of the Virgin Traverse. Check out the resources in the show notes to get a sense of the massive scale and seriousness of this objective.

I'll keep this intro brief since we've got a lot to cover. So, without further ado, let's jump back into our conversation with James Barrow.

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Don’t forget to check our our full video episodes on Youtube!

The TCM movement is growing but we need your help to spread the word! Please share this podcast with your friends and family. Word of mouth is one of the best ways to support the show. If you enjoyed the show we’d really appreciate it if you could rate and review us on your favorite podcatcher.

We are always looking for new guests. If you or someone you know would be a great fit for the show please don’t hesitate to reach out, just like James did. You can reach us on IG or email us directly @ [email protected]

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Resources

James Barrow's IG

The Complete Towers of the Virgin Traverse

When you hear "Zion National Park," what comes to mind? The Narrows, Moonlight Buttress, and some of the most stunning sandstone cliffs and peaks you’ll ever see, all packed into a canyon visited by over five million people each year. But what about the possibilities beyond the main canyon, beyond the classic hikes and climbs?

Today, we’re chatting with James Barrow. He's a father, climber, and electrician by trade. James quickly developed a knack for climbing, finding himself leading sport climbs in the 5.12+ range in under six months. But, after rushing his progression, he seriously injured his tendons, which pushed him to find a new kind of challenge. That's when he turned to adventure climbing.

James fell in love with exploring the uncharted, runout, loose, and complicated sandstone peaks and plateaus surrounding the main area of Zion National Park. His latest achievement? The Complete Towers of the Virgin Traverse—a feat that covers 20 distinct peaks, with 18,500 feet of elevation gain over 28 miles. The terrain involves runouts, canyoneering, bushwhacking, steep snow travel, soloing, and massive 70-meter rappels using a fiddlestick. The climb, rated 5.9+R/M2R, is one of the most challenging and technical routes done in Zion in the last 20 years.

I can't emphasize enough the magnitude of what James and his partner accomplished. After our conversation, he walked me through his route on Google Earth. The complexity of route-finding, the massive scale, and the varied conditions of rock, snow, and thick bushes left me amazed.

We’ve split this conversation into two parts. Today, we'll hear about the events that led James to set his sights on this massive sandstone alpine linkup, and essentially shape him as a climber. This will help us understand him better when he tells the full story of "The Complete Towers of the Virgin Traverse" in part two. We'll talk about his rapid progression to 5.12+, how he found adventure climbing, his view on risk, and what he did to prepare for this big linkup.

Resources

James' Instagram

Local News

What’s up everyone thanks for being here and for being a part of The Climbing Majority. Today we sit down with Martin Mora, co-founder and developer of Red- Point. Red-Point is a new app where you can use interactive 3d maps to explore and get detailed route information on boulders and crags. If you haven't already seen their social posts of their app in action…definitely go check them out. 

Martin is a unique individual who like many in the majority, found climbing later in his life. He found himself spending way too much time wondering where a specific route is at a new crag, and thought “There must be a better way”...Because of this h e and his business partner spent the last few years developing a process to scan and render 3 dimensional images of crags that can be explored virtually on your phone. Now they are traveling the globe to ultimately begin the overwhelming task of scanning the world's most prominent and popular rock walls.

Martin believes that the heavily detailed and  comprehensive nature of these 3D scans will soon make traditional apps like Mountain Project feel archaic. You will no longer need to stitch together subjective beta in the comments sections…. Martin even believes Red-Point is on track to become the Strava of climbing.

But Martin isn’t doing this alone; he's created a way for the entire climbing community to get involved. Through what he calls the 'Dirtbag Program,' climbers like you can contribute scans and even get paid up to $20 for each area or boulder you map. All you need is your phone.

So, whether you're a tech enthusiast, an avid climber, or just love a good story about passion fueled  innovation, you won't want to miss what Martin has to say. Let’s get started.

Resources

Red-Point

Instagram

In today's ever increasingly polarized world it can be difficult to have challenging conversations. Kyle and I are well aware that the issue of representation in sport is one that does not affect us personally.

However we were lucky enough to sit down with all around rad dude, climber extraordinaire and recent new father Eddie Taylor to learn about his ascents and what his thoughts were on the topic of representation. As a black climber in a predominantly white climbing climate Eddie gives us his perspective.

For those who don't know Eddie is a very accomplished climber. He has summited Denali, he summited Everest as a part of the first all black Everest expedition under Phill Henderson he climbed the Nose in a day and sent Moonlight Buttress to name a few of his accomplishments.

Talking with Eddie it was clear though that climbing was only part of the importance in his life. Eddie is a chemistry teacher, track coach and he expressed the importance of family and giving back to his community.

In this conversation we discuss some of Eddie's notable ascents, what to look for in climbing partners, representation in the climbing community and much more.

Please rate, review the show, and share this podcast with your friends. Word of mouth is one of the most powerful tools to help us out.

Contact us:
IG: @the.climbing.majority
Email: [email protected]

Today, we're diving into something that most of us are all familiar with - Mountain Project. It's the guidebook that's always at our fingertips, supported and enriched by our very own community. Yet, as revolutionary as it has been for sharing and discovering climbs, it brings up a few questions that we might easily overlook. Questions like, who actually owns the data we input? What happens to our contributions if we decide to bow out and delete our profile? And what do these practices mean for the future of climbing information? Honestly, these questions can really make you pause and think.

That's exactly why today, we're sitting down with Viet, a climber who's spotted the signs and decided to carve out a new path. He's one of the pioneering brains behind Open Beta IO, an initiative that’s rethinking our approach to how we share climbing data.

Viet’s vision? It's all about creating a space where information is not just shared but is open-sourced and accessible to all. As things stand, the data we openly donate to Mountain Project can't be repurposed or reused by others. To Viet, this lockdown of publicly sourced information is not just ethically gray; it's a blockade to the myriad of possibilities this data could unlock. But challenging the status quo and attempting to alter two-decade-old climber behaviors come with its own set of hurdles, questions to be answered, and ethical dilemmas to navigate.

So, get comfy and join us as we dive deep with Viet into the essence of Open Beta, the motivations driving it, and its potential to redefine how we, as climbers, connect with each other and the crags we cherish. At the very least, it's a chance for us to reflect on our complacency with surrendering our data, contributions, and creative outputs without much thought on how the way this data is being managed might actually be holding our community back.

Please rate, review the show, and share this podcast with your friends. Word of mouth is one of the most powerful tools to help us out.

Contact us:
IG: @the.climbing.majority
Email: [email protected]

Resources:

Openbeta.io