Welcome to the last episode of 2023. Thank you so much for being a part of our growing community…It means a lot to Kyle and I that you are here.  As climbers we've all seen videos and media depicting near impossible feats of physicality. You've probably seen these videos and thought “I could never accomplish something so hard”. But are these limitations we put on ourselves real? While our guest today is not a part of the Majority….. she once was. As a young spirited climber she never believed she could accomplish climbing 5.12. Fast forward to the present day, Mary Eden is one of the most accomplished crack climbers in the word. She recently just sent Necronomicon 5.14a and Black Mamba 5.14b on gear… These kinds of feats leave me simply speechless and in awe.  But what stood out most in our conversation was not how amazingly accomplished of a climber Mary is. It was her empowering message that we all can break through the arbitrary limitations we put on ourselves to achieve great things we once thought impossible. I'll leave you with a quote from Mary.

"I know that Necronomicon is not the peak of my physical or mental potential even though it was a beautiful dream. My advice for others is to pour energy into the people and activities that bring you joy as much as you can. Build yourself a genuine community and support system. Set your goals, and work towards them with intention, while enjoying the scenery along the way. And remember that at the end of the day it is just rock climbing, and you should be having fun." -Mary Eden

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Mary's IG

Mary's Youtube

This podcast is no stranger to traumatic life altering accidents. It is easy to let these events cripple us, and hard to allow them to transform us. Jason Hardrath, PE teacher from Klamath Fall, OR and competitive endurance athlete who’d just qualified for the Ironman 70.3 World Championships. Found himself ejected from a moving vehicle. He suffered a broken shoulder, collapsed lung, torn ACL and multiple internal injuries. Its fair to say the Jason is lucky to be alive. Just Three years later, Jason became the first person ever to establish 100 FKTs and currently sits with 121 under his belt. Now he is chasing a new objective: the Seven Volcanic Summits done in a style dreamed up by renowned climber Chad Kellogg called “The Infinity Loop”, which involves two summits and circumventing the entire base of each of the world's tallest volcanoes.

In our conversation we also discuss Jason’s predisposition for H.A.P.E and how it affects his safety in high altitude environments, his goals, and the partners who choose to join him on his dream of establishing the Seven Volcanic Summit Infinity Loops. 

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Jason's Personal Website

Jason's IG

Journey to 100 Film

Journey to Infinity Film

Teamwork…Communication…and Trust…are all paramount characteristics of a successful climbing partnership. And our safety is based around our own humility, proficiency, and confidence in the mountains…. The perfect balance of all these attributes is a complicated equilibrium to achieve. Today’s story is about what can happen when these pillars start to fall apart. When the ego takes over confidence….and when communication fails to keep everyone on the same page. That is when you find yourself in over your head, unable to retreat, and unable to move forward…at 14000 ft. 

Today we sit down with Ethan Morris and Evan Geller. Two climbers from San Diego that found themselves rescuing the very people they were trying to distance themselves from on the East Buttress of Mt. Whitney. A 1000ft route up the tallest mountain in the lower 48. They had no idea they were about to embark on a 48 hr epic involving runouts, loose rocks, panic, and risk of hypothermia……all with no previous alpine experience.   

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The Mountains test us, and shape us. We cannot lower the mountains. So we must elevate ourselves to their level. We should strive to choose goals in life that will challenge us, test us and that we think are impossible. Only through aiming at the highest peaks we can possibly envision will we truly transcend the suffering of the world to find meaning and purpose. For some this may be being a good life partner, having kids and enjoying the outdoors. For others it may mean climbing the wildest and gnarliest lines possible.

Our guest today at the age of 23 has managed to complete a lifetime of climbing accomplishments and he's just getting started. Nathan Longhurst is an endurance athlete and climber. In our conversation we discuss how he climbed the infamous Bulger's List at the age of 21. This consists of climbing Washington’s 100 highest peaks. As crazy as that is, it pales in comparison to his journey climbing the Sierra Peak Section (SPS) which involved climbing 247 peaks in 138 days. This accomplishment is mind blowing and a true feat of grit, endurance and logistics.

Finally we chat about Nathan’s solo ascent of Denali’s infamous Cassin Ridge. Nathan climbed this with skis and ski boots. A mind blowing accomplishment. Nathan is clearly a master in the mountains.

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As climbers we are aware of the finality of our actions. The possibility of death is always looming. Paradoxically, knowing this, is what can make us feel so alive. We know our actions have consequences, and only through the mastery of body and emotions can those consequences be mitigated to avoid the finality of death. Our guest today is no stranger to death. Austin McCall completed 13 tours of duty in the military. Operating in both Iraq and Afghanistan with the army's 75th Ranger Regiment. In this conversation we discuss how Austin began to work with the Veteran Adventure Group where he plans and leads climbing expeditions around the world. We discuss his military service, a rescue on Denali, a whipper at 17,000 feet, the bonds formed through climbing and much more. 

A word of caution, This episode discusses combat, death, and an incident where Austin took grenade shrapnel to his face, it is graphic and heavy by nature. 

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Veteran's Adventure Group

Welcome back everyone! We are about 1.5 years into this podcast and you are currently listening to our 50th episode and are rapidly approaching 30k all time downloads and just wanted to say thank you for being a part of this growing community, Max and I are beyond pumped that your here, and are excited to keep sharing stories of climbers around the world. 

Today’s conversation is about my recent successful summit of Mt Russell via the Fishhook Arete in the Eastern Sierra in California. While, thankfully, nothing dramatic occurred, we talk about the new permit logistics found for the Whitney Portal area, the complications of professionally documenting a high alpine ascent, the benefits of radios in the alpine, and finally the play by play of our climb…which included a single nut rappel made after a route finding error.

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Climbing can be risky, and it's easy to overlook those risks when you've never experienced them first hand. You might hear stories of injuries or even fatalities, but until you experience something first hand you are missing a true understanding of the risks you are taking. Enter Colin Jokisch, a seasoned climber whose world changed after a near-fatal fall on an Arkansas roof crack. Colin's accident gave him PTSD, especially when using trad gear—a sentiment Max and I deeply understand. Like most of us his love for climbing didn't go away. Instead of choosing to quit the sport altogether or to never push his abilities again he pivoted to the art of rope soloing, finding it a safer way to tackle challenging trad lines. Today, we dive into Colin's harrowing experience, the mental, physical, and emotional toll of climbing accidents, and finally we cover the ins and outs of the elusive practice of rope soloing. 

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Our guest today is not a part of the majority; he is the very definition of a small minority of athletes doing unfathomable feats. Today Kyle and I are sitting down with Jack Kuenzle, a former Navy Seal who grew up in Dallas Texas. Jack attended Yale receiving his B.A before he joined the Navy Seals and completed Basic Underwater Demolition Seals Training (BUDS). He is best known for his pursuit of FKT,s. Some of his accolades include Beating Killian Jornet’s fastest known times on the 66 mile Bob Graham Round, a mountainous traverse around England's lake district. Moreover he beat Killiants FKT on Denali this past year, this is where Jack and I met. Heis also credited with numerous fastest known times such as Mt Whitney CA, Mt Shasta CA, Mt Hood and Mt Rainier to name a few. Additionally Jack is a coach for Evoke Endurance where he is under the tutelage of legendary Coach Scott Johston. In today's conversation we discuss Jack's history, what led him to be the athlete he is today, his training and nutrition and finally we discuss some of his major ascents, FKT’s and what he plans to do in the future.

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Climbing larger mountains, especially ones that are far away from home… takes a lot of planning, training, logistics, and a little bit of luck. We spend months preparing for what sometimes comes down to a single day on a mountain. So what happens when you're 700 ft from the summit, and you realize touching the top might mean you won’t come back? While that seems like an easy choice…. The weight of seemingly wasting months of planning, training, and traveling can be almost too much to bear…This is a decision we are all faced with at some point in our lives as mountain climbers… do we risk everything and continue on? Or do we swallow pride and choose to climb the mountain another day? 

This is the exact situation our guest Joshua Kasumovic found himself in high up on what is possibly the most iconic mountains in the world. This is Josh’s story of the Matterhorn.

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As mountain athletes it's easy to get consumed by our objectives and our drive to continuously improve and get stronger can be draining. It can make us forget that one of the most meaningful parts of the mountains is the people we meet on the way, the bonds we form and the experiences shared.

In this conversation we explore what drives a 25 year old who was born and raised in the flat state of Long Island New York to pursue a challenging solo ascent of Denali. Our Guest today is Alex Mitchko, an apprentice ski and alpine guide. I met Alex this past spring while climbing Denali in Alaska. During his expedition he had a 45 mph skiing accident…. and two harrowing crevasse falls. Amazingly he walked away injury free.

Spending time with Alex, you could see his passion for the mountains radiating from him. But what stood out even more was his ability to connect with people. Alex brought out the best in everyone around him and is a great reminder that the people we are with are just as important as the objectives we covet.

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