Day one of an Oregon coast adventure - what could possibly go wrong? As Mysterious James and I began our journey from Astoria after navigating July 4th rental car details, we encounter (because of course) the first of many issues we’ll encounter on the most mysterious of Oregon Coast adventures ever.

Morning, Turned Afternoon Departure

• 1:00 PM start time after bike assembly and hotel checkout
• Bikes transported in rental car not designed for two bikes
• TSA inspection didn’t damage  gear (deraileur hanger protection removed)
• Successful bike reassembly and adjustment

The Ride Begins

• Largely flat terrain - unusual for Oregon Coast
• Two notable climbs between departure and Seaside
• Decision to shorten day from Nehalem Bay to Cannon Beach
• Use of Perplexity AI to find alternative "off-book" campsite a success

Seaside Stop & Food Strategy

• Delightful lunch that both riders "really needed"
• Tim's nutrition timing issues affecting performance
• Plan to shop for breakfast supplies at local market

The Mechanical Crisis

• James's left crank arm completely falls off while riding to market
• Discovery of tiny pin mechanism in Shimano crank arm
• Initial DIY repair attempts fail spectacularly
• Kind local offers help but problem proves beyond field repair

Professional Intervention

• Bike shop discovery 470 feet away in Cannon Beach
• Ian at local rental shop (also starting bike repair services)
• Diagnosis: stripped internal teeth, unrepairable in field
• Shop closing at 7:30 PM but Ian stays to help

The Damage Assessment

• Left crank arm completely stripped internally
• Cannot be field-repaired
• Options: Replace single crank arm or entire crankset
• Potential multi-day delay due to Sunday/Monday shop closures

Contingency Planning

• Morning departure to Seaside bike shops (two available)
• Transportation options: Uber (surprisingly available) or bus service
• Multiple backup plans if repair takes longer
• Flexibility to modify entire tour routing if needed

Technical Details

• Equipment failure: Shimano crank arm with pin retention system
• Daily mileage: Approximately 30 miles completed
• Terrain: Two moderate climbs for Oregon Coast standards
• Upcoming challenge: Arch Cape Tunnel (uphill tunnel on Highway 101)

Local Insights

• Cannon Beach: Block-by-block character variation
• Seaside: Extremely crowded July 5th weekend
• Tourism impact: Half of Portland/Seattle metro areas visiting simultaneously
• Bike infrastructure: Limited bike parking in tourist areas

Lessons Learned

1. Try DIY first - But know when to seek professional help
2. Rental shops can be repair shops - Ian's dual business model
3. Community support - Locals willing to help stranded cyclists
4. Flexibility is key - Every PedalShift tour goes sideways at some point

Tour Philosophy Discussion

• Expectation that something will go wrong on every tour
• Value of riding companions with compatible problem-solving approaches
• Benefits of building in extra days and flexible routing
• Options to modify tour scope based on circumstances

Looking Ahead

• Immediate goal: Get James's bike repaired in Seaside
• Backup plans: Shortened tour, bus connections, or complete rerouting
• Distance flexibility: 20-30 mile days vs. 55-mile days depending on circumstances
• Route options: Continue south vs. return north via Portland

Notable Quotes

• "All bike tours in the PedalShift universe go sideways at some point"
• "There are worse places in the world to be stranded"
• "It depends on the block you're on" (describing Seaside)
• "We expect something to go sideways at some point, and you just deal with it"

Statistics

Miles biked 30

Percentage of crank arms that did not fail 75

Distance in feet from Ian’s Cannon Beach bike rental -slash- shop 475

Cumulative nights spent in Cannon Beach (so far) 1

Flats zero

We are so back.... on the Oregon Coast with the Mysterious James for another round of two-wheeled mayhem. Ten days, 360 miles, zero expectations, and maximum potential for randomness. The Safari's ready, MJ is in, and we're about to find out if bike touring is really dying or just hiding. Spoiler alert: it's gonna be a wild ride.

Route Preview

•Start: Astoria, OR (mile marker 0 or 360, depending on your perspective)

•End: Crescent City, CA (for Tim); James continues on to the Bay Area

•Duration: 10 days with a flexible buffer day

•Notable overnight stops (planned or likely):

•Nehalem Bay State Park (newly renovated!)

•Pacific City (Webb Campground… maybe)

•South Beach State Park (for access to Newport breweries)

•Honeyman State Park (newer, flatter hiker/biker site)

•Humbug Mountain State Park

•Harris Beach State Park

•Potential zero day or break-up of the tough Humbug → Harris Beach stretch

•No planned fast-forwards, unless absolutely necessary.

Camping and Lodging Notes

•Prioritizing Oregon’s legendary hiker/biker campgrounds.

•Watching for options to split up tougher days if needed.

•No hotels booked mid-ride… but maybe one after.

Health & COVID Precautions

•Recent exposure to COVID before departure.

•Testing negative but traveling with:

•N95 masks

•At-home test kits

•A solid commitment to not being “that guy” on the coast

Gear and Bike Setup

•Bike: The classic Safari (not the e-bike — those batteries don’t fly)

•Derailleur hanger fixed after some Oregon baggage trauma last year

•Bags and Packing:

•Rear panniers only (probably no front rack)

•Dry bag strapped to handlebars

•Possibly a rack-top bag or extra dry bag for groceries

•Tent & Sleep Kit: Same trusty gear as usual

•Clothing:

•Two sun hoodies, maybe a few tees

•Minimal civilian clothes

•One pair of riding pants, maybe a second pair

•Hat, gloves (maybe), sleep clothes

•Kitchen:

•Might skip the stove — James likely bringing one

•Planning to mooch hot water as needed

•Hydration & Nutrition:

•Bringing water cube + personal bottle

•Salt/electrolyte tablets recommended by a listener

•Stroopwafels as ride fuel (solid choice)

Weather Forecast

•Classic Oregon coast summer: mid-60s highs, mid-50s lows, mostly dry

•Tailwinds expected

•Perfect conditions for coastal touring

The State of Touring

•Fewer cyclists seen in recent years — why?

•Aging of the boomer “bikecentennial” generation

•More folks opting for trail or gravel rides

•General safety concerns on roadways

•ACA is selling its HQ in Missoula and going fully remote — a sign of shifting tides?

•This ride may be another data point in the evolution of bike touring

What to Expect

•Conversations and stories with James

•Challenges, route decisions, campground reviews, and food stops

•A mix of reflective commentary and classic on-the-road storytelling

Coming Up…

•Next episode kicks off the Mysterious Oregon Coast 2025 tour proper

•Get ready for on-the-ground updates, audio postcards, and the real-time unfolding of the adventure

Despite living on the east coast, we spend a whole heck of a lot of attention on bicycle adventures on the west coast, right? Well, it’s time we changed that! On this episode, we chat with Regina Yan about the East Coast Greenway, her epic trip and how she and the East Coast Greenway Alliance is making this route a contender for all of our future cycling adventures! Originally podcast April 28, 2023.

Six days, two countries, multiple ferries, and one very stubborn e-bike brake magnet later, the Lake Ontario circumnavigation attempt has wrapped up in ways both expected and completely unforeseen. What started as an ambitious 540-mile loop around one of the Great Lakes became a masterclass in adventure adaptation, international border logistics, and the reality of shoulder season touring. On this episode, takeaways from a trip that delivered lessons extending far beyond the original route plan.

Lake Ontario 2025 Takeaways

1. Plan for Ferry Contingencies Ferry schedules can be unreliable, especially early or late in the season. The US-Canada ferry that was supposed to be running for Memorial Day weekend simply wasn't operational, despite being a critical piece of the route. Always have backup plans for ferry-dependent routes and call ahead rather than assuming seasonal schedules are accurate.

2. E-bike Mechanical Knowledge is Essential This adventure nearly ended before it began due to a simple brake magnet issue that couldn't be initially diagnosed. If you're planning to tour with an e-bike, invest time in learning the electrical components and common failure points. Carry backup magnets, electrical tape, and basic electrical tools.

3. Weight Distribution Matters More on E-bikes The combination of heavy batteries, chargers, and touring gear created concerns about spoke and wheel integrity on a bike not designed for that load. Consider front panniers or other weight distribution solutions when carrying substantial battery backup systems for longer tours.

4. International Border Crossings Require Flexibility International bike touring adds layers of complexity that can derail plans. Without vehicle backup, a cyclist would have been stranded when the expected ferry crossing wasn't running. Research multiple crossing points and have contingency transportation options for international routes.

5. E-bikes Excel at "Twice the Speed, Half the Effort" Consistently maintaining 20+ mph with moderate effort effectively doubles your range compared to acoustic cycling. This opens up longer day rides and different touring philosophies - you can cover more ground in less time or take more time to explore without distance pressure.

6. Shoulder Season Has Trade-offs Riding in late May meant fewer crowds and cooler temperatures, but also meant many seasonal services weren't yet operational. Consider what matters more for your trip: solitude and cooler weather, or full service availability and guaranteed open businesses.

7. Battery Management is Both Psychological and Practical Having two batteries completely eliminated range anxiety and changed the entire riding approach. The faster-charging newer battery became primary, with the backup providing peace of mind. Invest in quality charging equipment and understand your system's charging capabilities and timing.

8. Vehicle-Supported Adventures Have Merit While purists might prefer self-supported touring, hybrid approaches can still deliver meaningful bike experiences while providing important safety nets. Sometimes adapting your adventure style is better than canceling entirely when plans go sideways.

9. Memorial or Meaningful Rides Can Evolve Despite not completing the original circumnavigation plan, the spiritual goal of honoring family through cycling around meaningful places was still achieved. The intention and connection to place often matters more than perfect execution of your original route.

10. Equipment Confidence Takes Time and Experience The relationship with the e-bike evolved from skeptical to confident over the course of the trip. Don't expect immediate comfort with new bike setups - allow for a learning curve and consider adventures like this as extended shakedown rides for future longer tours.

Bonus Insight: Toronto Island proved to be an unexpected highlight, demonstrating that some of the best bike touring moments come from unplanned discoveries when you maintain flexibility to explore interesting detours.

What was supposed to be a triumphant border crossing and final push from Niagara Falls back to the starting point became something entirely different when family health concerns required an immediate pivot. But sometimes the best laid plans need to be set aside for what actually matters, and day six became about completing the ride in the way it was always meant to end - with a proper beginning and a proper finish, both by bike, both connected to the places and people that made this whole adventure meaningful in the first place.

Lake Ontario 2025: Part 7

Statistics 

Miles biked: 10.2 

Number of times the difference between towns and villages in New York was explained: 1 (and hopefully that's enough) 

Conversations with Good Samaritans about unconscious people on bike paths: 1 

Root intrusions that could be classified as kidney shakers: 4 

Battery anxiety level on a scale of 1-10: 0 Municipalities referenced 4 Flats: 0

Transitioning from from the peaceful Toronto Island back into the  urban sprawl of southern Ontario is a bit of a record scratch I’ll more thoroughly experience when I eventually ride this ride, but a fast forward to a stunning Niagara Falls hotel leads to an extensive e-bike exploration of the Niagara River and Falls area. But plans always have a way of changing and this day was no different.

Toronto Island Farewell

• Final morning walk through the quiet island community
• Observations on the unique housing stock and lifestyle
• Discussion of waiting lists and the appeal of island living
• Apple tree sightings continuing the Lake Ontario apple theme

Hotel with a View

• Check-in at a dated but perfectly positioned Niagara Falls hotel
• Room with an "outrageous" view directly overlooking Horseshoe Falls
• Plans to bring dinner back to the room due to the unbeatable vista
• Discussion of off-season pricing and business travel perks

Vehicle Talk

• Introduction to the new Toyota RAV4 plugin hybrid
• Upcoming camping drawer system installation
• Comparison to previous vehicle setups
• Teasing of a major summer adventure

Navigation Adventures

• Challenges finding the proper cycling route to Niagara Parkway
• Discovery of abandoned rail right-of-way
• Multiple elevation changes due to the Niagara Escarpment
• Eventually finding the correct riverside path

Hydroelectric Discovery

• Learning about the Niagara Tunnel Project - 10.2 km underground tunnel
• Understanding how power generation works 40 meters below the river surface
• Observing the transformation from calm upstream waters to rushing rapids
• Multiple spillways and control structures

Falls Experience

• Cycling directly along the Niagara River as it approaches the falls
• Walking the bike through crowded tourist areas
• Experiencing mist from both American and Horseshoe Falls
• International tourism observations
• Discussion of why this isn't a national/provincial park

Family Matters

• Mid-episode phone call requiring attention to family health issues
• Decision to return home earlier than planned
• Reflection on how circumstances aligned properly for the situation

Looking Ahead

• Announcement of a "proper" Day 6 episode
• Plans to complete the original intended route from mother's former home to current home
• Postponement of international border crossing for future adventure

Miles biked 6

Number of Superman II references 3

Outrageous parking cost at the hotel 45 CAD

Length in seconds of the full color cycle of the falls lighting at night 69 (nice)

iPod dockable clock radios in the hotel that are so vintage as to be worth way more than the hotel probably thinks 1

Flats 0

Toronto! The biggest city in Canada beckoned with its record shops, high energy and criminally underrated cycling on the islands off shore. With a basketball arena parking spot and my kind of weather, TO was ready to welcome me with open arms…

🚗 Parking + Arrival in Toronto

•Parking garage setup with EV charging — 24 hours for 24 CAD, prime downtown location.

•Thoughts on Cybertrucks (spoiler: not a fan).

•Quick record shop detour before rolling out.

🚲 Urban E-bike Sprint to the Ferry

•Navigating Toronto traffic to make the ferry in time.

•First glimpses of the Harborfront Trail and ferry terminal success.

ðŸ›³ï¸ Ferry to the Islands

•On board the William Lingus (insert SNL reference).

•Observations on Toronto Island’s regulars and off-season calm.

ðŸï¸ Exploring Toronto Island by E-bike

•Discovering the island’s unique layout — car-lite, license-limited.

•Big marina views and rear-view cityscapes.

•Moody, Oregon Coast-like weather setting the tone.

☕ Cafés, Birds & Black Squirrels

•Coffee shop scouting and parking time calculations.

•Noticing Toronto Island’s charm: cardinals, fire stations, and disc golf.

📸 CN Tower Skyline Shot of the Day

•Photo stop at a postcard-perfect harbor: ducks, loons, and urban backdrop.

•Tangent on the CN Tower’s claim to fame and photographic techniques.

ðŸŒ§ï¸ Light Rain, Green Spaces, and Island Vibes

•Embracing the drizzle in classic bike touring style.

•Pedal-assist set low to savor the scenery and solitude.

•Disc golf, beaches, and lots of benches — the quiet off-season character.

🎡 Amusement Park Detour

•Riding through a closed kiddie amusement park and petting zoo.

•Peacock spotting and the return of Muppet-inspired names (Kermit Fog, anyone?).

•Funnel cake cravings and childhood park nostalgia.

🕠Center Island + Beer Dreams

•Discovery of the Toronto Island BBQ and Beer Co.

•Harbor views and light snack planning before continuing the ride.

âœˆï¸ Quest for the Airport

•Meandering west toward Hanlan’s Point and the Billy Bishop City Airport.

•Geeking out over planes, windsocks, and off-limits fencing.

•A side of Toronto most tourists never see.

ðŸ³ï¸‍🌈 Historic Discovery: Canada’s Oldest Queer Space

•Hanlan’s Point signage reveals a legacy of LGBTQ+ community since 1971.

•Reflections on inclusivity, history, and the spirit of the island.

ðŸ—ºï¸ Full Island Traverse & Wrap-up

•Realization that the “Toronto Islands” are really one big, bikeable park.

•Rain resumes just in time for the ride back.

•Cozy Airbnb vibes: lilac trees, woodland cottages, and coffee-fueled reflection.

🚨 Day 4 Reflections

•Just 10 miles ridden, but packed with discovery and beauty.

•Looking ahead to Niagara Falls and planning the next cycling routes.

Miles biked 10

Closed amusement parks featuring obvious IP theft 1

High temperature in Celsius 12

Records purchased 1

Poutineries visited 1 (a solid 8 stars)

Flats 0

This portion of the trip was always going to be a question mark - what kind of biking will there be? Will it be fun? Will I be looking too much ahead to more obviously notable places like Toronto and Niagara Falls? Wolfe Island once again answers the call!

🚲 Ride Overview

•Starting the day from Wolf Island, Ontario

•A late start, but with a scenic route west to Sandy Point

•Focus on a relaxed e-bike ride due to a tight ferry schedule

🌞 Weather & Ride Conditions

•Sunny and pleasantly warm, a bit hotter than ideal

•Wind off the lake keeping things cooler

•Reflections on how the late May weather still feels like early spring in Ontario

ðŸ› ï¸ Gear & Tech Check

•E-bike powered up and performing well

•Toolkit left behind—risky move noted

•Ongoing commentary on wide tires, limestone trails, and pedal assist levels

•Big win: no brake issues from frequent wheel removal

📠Destinations & Detours

•Attempt to visit Big Sandy Bay—blocked by entry fee and bike restrictions

•Scenic return loop around the island

•Stop in Bath, Ontario for a legendary lakeside poutine at Fry 33

🧭 Navigation Notes

•Avoiding Highway 401 in favor of more bike-friendly, scenic backroads

•Provincial Route 33 (aka Loyalist Parkway) praised for good shoulders and low traffic

•Transition from island terrain to mainland cottage country

ðŸ›³ï¸ Ferry Fun

•Quick ferry crossings as part of the day’s travel

•Love letter to ferries: bike, vehicle, passenger—doesn’t matter, all good

•Plans to use ferries again in future trips (Seattle foreshadowing)

🠠Accommodations

•Overnight stay in Colborne, Ontario

•Modest Airbnb geared toward truckers, with diner and Tim Hortons nearby

🧠 Reflections & Takeaways

•E-bike confidence fully restored (it was just a magnet issue!)

•Ride offered a mix of natural beauty, tech success, and route experimentation

•Anticipation builds for upcoming Toronto exploration at the “speed of bike”

Miles biked 15

Poutine stops 1

Number of stars for the poutine stop 44

Ferries ferried 2

Flats 0

So the ebike is a brick in the back of my Rav4, but it still works like a normal bike, so let’s keep going! But a sudden realization may provide the solution to unlock all the battery goodness, just as another stunning discovery makes me realize, this trip’s Plan B was all meant to be.

Hotel pack-up & quick diagnosis

• • Morning in Oswego, NY.
  • Realizes the motor cut-off is just a loose brake-lever magnet. Simple electrical/duct-tape fix brings the e-bike back to life.

Route planning & launch

• • Scraps the closed Cape Vincent ferry idea
  • decides to drive the east shore of Lake Ontario, scouting state parks and quieter wildlife areas instead of sticking to busy parks.

Lake-side stops

• • Quick visit to Black Pond Wildlife Management Area (too restricted for bikes).
  • Heads north to Westcott Beach State Park for a short beach walk, photos, and a quick battery test run.

Drive to Canada

• • Long detour to the Thousand Islands bridge (the only open crossing) because the south-end Wolf Island ferry is closed.
  • Smooth Canadian customs stop; grabs ice cream and activates a Canadian eSIM for data.

Kingston → Wolf Island ferry

• • Misses the boat by two cars; 80-minute wait becomes a snack-and-people-watch session.
  • Free ferry ride over; hotel is literally a block from the dock.

Marysville check-in

• • Rustic ground-floor room, lake view, no A/C needed. Drops bags, scopes dinner options (hotel café).

Evening e-bike shake-down

• • 14-mile out-and-back along Route 95 to the shuttered U.S. ferry dock on the south tip.
  • Cruises at ~20 mph, marvels at wind turbines, farmland scenery, and micro-climates.
  • Confirms minimal battery draw and re-affirms “twice the speed, half the effort” mantra.

Wrap-up reflections

• • Happy the brake glitch happened early—it forced a car assist and avoided being stranded.
  • Wolf Island deemed a stellar, low-traffic cycling spot; sets intentions for next day’s ride and keeps an eye on looming Toronto weather.

Miles biked 15

Closed ferry terminals visited 2

Open ferry terminals visited 2

Missed ferries 1

Denomination of Canadian currency that may or may not smell like maple syrup unless the bartender was trolling me 50

Flats 0

Episode 404? Isn’t 404 a website error? Well part 2 of the Lake Ontario adventure corrects for the very serious 404 we had with the ebike. Still a mystery, but we’re recovering and adventuring by bike in amazing towns like Sodus Point and Oswego, exploring apple orchard memories and historic nuclear power plants in between. 

Abandoning the E-Bike Dream (For Now)

The electric bike project is benched due to reliability issues

Reflections on bike trust, touring logistics, and rethinking the approach

New trip plan: use the RAV4 Prime to support bike day rides

Pre-Booked Lodging Dilemma

All lodging was pre-booked and non-refundable

How that shifted priorities to maximize the trip by driving to each spot

The “acoustic” bike becomes the tour hero

 Day One Route & Destination

Base: North of Webster, NY

Original plan scrapped; new mission: mini bike adventures in each locale

Exploring route options en route to Oswego, NY

 Riding Past a Nuclear Legacy

Passing the Ginna Nuclear Power Plant on Lake Road

A personal memory and historical reflection on the 1982 radioactive steam release

Commentary on U.S. nuclear energy anxiety vs. European acceptance

 Beechwood State Park to Sodus Point Ride

Decides to ride directly from Sodus Point due to better parking and facilities

Observations of the ride: comfortable unloaded, with scenic lake views

Reflections on Sodus Point, tiki bars, and surprisingly modern homes

A Sentimental Apple Orchard Memory

Flashback to camping with dad in a lakeside orchard

Emotional moment recalling powdered milk, childhood camping trips, and family history

Reflection on development replacing orchards with McMansions

Lunch, Tiki Bars, and Town Vibes

Tiki bar surprise: Jack’s Good Time Tavern!

Bike parking logistics and electric vehicle charging frustrations

Exploring local businesses

Bonus Ride to Sodus Point Beach Park

Beautiful weather, sandy beach, and kite-filled skies

Soaking in the views with the acoustic bike and good mic in tow

Ferry Fiasco Averted

Critical discovery: the expected ferry from Oswego isn’t operating

Realization: the whole trip could’ve collapsed if not for the car-based pivot

Learning: Always confirm ferry schedules

Oswego River + Downtown Bike Loop

Late-day ride along Oswego’s waterfront and Cahill Pier

Thoughts on Oswego’s economic history, SUNY Oswego, and bike-friendly waterfront

Scenic photo ops with a sailboat and lighthouse

Infrastructure Observations

Comments on visible power plants, nuclear and traditional

Reflections on energy production, environment, and how the infrastructure shapes the town

Memory-Making in Motion

How a disappointing start turned into a meaningful, flexible, and scenic experience

New appreciation for blending car support with bike touring

Looking ahead: next stop, Canada – via car, not ferry

Miles biked 10

Nuclear power plants 2

Tiki bars in Sodus Point 2

Kite flying festivals attended 1

Misidentified rivers 1

Flats 0