As a result of trade, travel and migration, different cuisines have spread across the world. Many recipes, chefs and restaurants try to claim that their example of a particular culinary tradition is the most authentic. But is this a good thing?

由于贸易、旅行和移民，不同的美食已经传播到世界各地。 许多食谱、厨师和餐馆都试图声称他们的特定烹饪传统的例子是最正宗的。 但这是好事吗？

People care about authenticity because food traditions are closely linked to identity, particularly for migrant communities. Sociologist and professor of food studies, Krishnendu Ray, explains that home cooking is often the last way that communities can show their identity. British celebrity chef Jamie Oliver was accused of trying to take advantage of positive feelings about Jamaica. His ready meal product had a Jamaican name, but was unlike genuine Jamaican cooking.

人们关心真实性，因为饮食传统与身份密切相关，尤其是对于移民社区而言。 社会学家兼食品研究教授克里希南杜·雷 (Krishnendu Ray) 解释说，家庭烹饪往往是社区展示其身份的最后一种方式。 英国名厨杰米·奥利弗被指控试图利用人们对牙买加的积极情绪。 他的即食产品有一个牙买加名字，但与真正的牙买加烹饪不同。

However, food consultant Sara Kay asks whether there are problems with the idea of authenticity. She highlights that these ideas often come from the expectations that majority cultures have about minority cultures and their food. These can be restricting – restauranteurs have complained that people expect Asian food to be cheaper than that from European cultures.

然而，食品顾问萨拉·凯询问真实性的想法是否存在问题。 她强调，这些想法通常来自大多数文化对少数文化及其食物的期望。 这些可能会受到限制——餐馆老板抱怨说，人们期望亚洲食品比欧洲文化的食品便宜。

Expectations can also give people a false idea of what is authentic. While large cities are full of eateries representing different countries – China, India, Italy, Mexico and more – these labels can oversimplify the reality of food from these countries. Stephanie Elizondo Greist was surprised by the difference between regional specialities in different parts of Mexico and what she ate growing up as a Mexican-American in Texas, but feels that both are authentic examples of Mexican food.

期望也会让人们对真实的事物产生错误的认识。 虽然大城市遍布代表不同国家（中国、印度、意大利、墨西哥等）的餐馆，但这些标签可能过于简单化了这些国家食品的真实情况。 斯蒂芬妮·埃利松多·格雷斯特 (Stephanie Elizondo Greist) 对墨西哥不同地区的地方特色菜与她在德克萨斯州长大的墨西哥裔美国人所吃的东西之间的差异感到惊讶，但认为两者都是墨西哥食物的正宗例子。

A more controversial view of authenticity was stated by American Chef Andrew Zimmern, who claimed that he could bring Chinese dishes to Minnesota in a more authentic way than existing restaurants – many of which are owned by Chinese-Americans. Writer and food podcaster Ruth Tam points out that while these restaurants altered their menus to suit local tastes, so does Zimmern. So, while food and identity are closely linked, and failure to respect authenticity can cause offence, could there be problems with the whole idea of authenticity?

美国厨师安德鲁·齐默恩(Andrew Zimmern)提出了一个更有争议的真实性观点，他声称他可以以比现有餐馆更正宗的方式将中餐带到明尼苏达州——其中许多餐馆都是由华裔美国人开的。 作家兼美食播客 Ruth Tam 指出，虽然这些餐厅改变了菜单以适应当地口味，但 Zimmern 也是如此。 因此，虽然食物和身份密切相关，不尊重真实性可能会导致冒犯，但真实性的整个理念是否存在问题？

词汇表

cuisine 菜肴
recipe 食谱
chef 厨师
restaurant 餐馆，餐厅
culinary tradition 烹饪传统
food tradition 饮食传统
food studies 食品研究
home cooking 家庭烹饪
celebrity chef 明星大厨
ready meal 即食餐，方便食品
cooking （用特定方法烹制的）饭菜
restauranteur 餐馆老板
eatery 小饭馆
regional speciality 地方特色菜
dish （一道）菜，菜肴
menu 菜单