It's Just Perfume

In this episode of It's Just Perfume, Steve and Dana spend time with Saskia Wilson Brown, the founder of the Institute for Art and Olfaction, a non-profit organization devoted to advancing education and public access to the olfactory arts. They discuss the impact of the IAO and Scent Bar on the burgeoning perfume scene in Los Angeles, transforming the city into an internationally recognized hub of scent creation.

Saskia's passion for perfume and its influence on culture motivated her to write The Cultures of Perfume, released by D.A.P. The book looks at various materials used in perfumery across many cultures over millennia and the associations we have with them. How did rose become associated with love? The answer involves both the Virgin Mary and Aphrodite. What was the scent associated with the decadence and abuse of power in the court of Versailles before the revolution?

The book is a must-read for anyone with a curiosity about perfume and the conversation around it was both enlightening and fun.

Perfumes mentioned in this episode:

00:36:06:25 Oranges and Lemons Say the Bells of St. Clements by Heeley

00:45:28:27 Avignon by Comme des Garcons available on Luckyscent.com

00:49:19:20 Chloe Sevigny Little Flower by Regime des Fleurs

00:50:10:25 Grace by Grace Coddington x Comme des Garcons

00:50:30:15 Rose Highland by Jorum Studio

00:55:22:08 Bee by Zoologist

00:58:17:28 Slowdive by Hiram Green Perfumes available on Luckyscent.com

00:58:34:07 Philtre by Hiram Green Perfumes available on Luckyscent.com

01:04:35:12 Wavechild by Room 1015 available on Luckyscent.com.com

Hosted by Steven Gontarski and Dana Kiley Buchanan

Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

In this episode of It's Just Perfume, Steve sits down with journalist Ariel Baker from Marie Claire at Scent Bar Brooklyn. They talk about her career journey from health care into editorial and her personal journey from Jamaica to Massachusetts to New York City.

Ariel reveals her first perfume loves and her foray into niche as Marie Claire readers demanded more stories about the growing scent world. They talk about the relationships between brands, customers, journalists and content creators and how various generations discover perfume through different channels. We find out which bottles she grabs most often and what notes she's excited about. Iris, concrete anyone?

Perfumes mentioned in this episode:

02:33:18 Twilight Woods by Bath and Body Work

05:28:20 Beach Walk by Maison Martin Margiela

05:36:01 By The Fireplace by Maison Martin Margiela

09:58:10 Mango Skin by Vilhelm Parfumerie available on Luckyscent.com

12:21:09 Molecule 01 by Escentric Molecules available on Luckyscent.com

15:38:23 Fahrenheit by Dior

16:37:23 Molecule 01 + Iris by Escentric Molecules available on Luckyscent.com

17:41:05 Angel Dust by Fugazzi available on Luckyscent.com

21:52:22 Cuir Béluga by Guerlain

22:35:15 Vanille Planifolia Extrait 21 by Guerlain

24:16:25 Rotano by Maison d'Etto available on Luckyscent.com

26:44:25 For Your Love by Mizensir

27:14:08 Baccarat Rouge 540 by Maison Francis Kurkdjian available on Luckyscent.com

37:41:10 Love-O-Matic by Room 1015 available on Luckyscent.com

39:11:01 Sonic Flower by Room 1015 available on Luckyscent.com

39:58:15 You by Glossier

40:58:00 White Rice by D'Annam available on Luckyscent.com

41:52:15 Pomelo Oolong by D'Annam available on Luckyscent.com

48:37:08 God of Fire by Stéphane Humbert Lucas available on Luckyscent.com

50:09:00 Happy Dust by Narcotica available on Luckyscent.com

50:46:24 Beyond the Veil by Sorce available on Luckyscent.com

52:25:16 Peau Originale by Arnué available on Luckyscent.com

56:35:05 Mantes La Jolie by Astier de Villatte available on Luckyscent.com

Hosted by Steven Gontarski

Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

In this episode of It's Just Perfume, Steven Gontarski and Susannah Melvoin talk with perfumer Angelos Balamis of Angelos Creations Olfactives. Having collected vintage perfumes throughout her life, Susannah immediately recognized the unmistakable, special qualities of Angelos' perfumes. Sure enough Angelos revealed his love for the classics of the venerable French perfume houses such as Guerlain and Caron.

They discuss how the economic crash in Greece led Angelos to reposition his career path, inspiring him to pursue his passions. He discusses his thorough process of evaluating raw materials and conversing with them as he builds highly intricate, sophisticated blends.

Together they all sniff Soma Panorama, a perfume developed in collaboration with Sebastian Jara, The Perfume Guy and debuted at the inaugural ScentFest SF earlier this year. The two friends live in sister cities, San Francisco and Thessaloniki, and wanted the perfume to reflect their physical and cultural similarities and differences. It's a perfect example of Angelos' distinctive approach to perfume making combining elements of storytelling, his biography, perfume history and a deep understanding and appreciation of the olfactory building blocks.

Perfumes discussed in this episode

00:03:41:04 Tabac Blond by Caron

00:03:43:03 Mitsouko by Guerlain

00:03:48:10 Vol de Nuit by Guerlain

00:03:56:26 Djedi by Guerlain

00:04:01:11 Iris Gris by Jacques Fath

00:04:27:02 Jazz by YSL

00:04:33:15 Havana by Aramis

00:04:36:14 Fahrenheit by Dior

00:08:06:02 Soma Panorama by Angelos Creations Olfactives

00:17:11:27 Narcisse Noir by Caron

00:17:16:08 Narkissos by Angelos Creations Olfactives

00:32:06:03 Eau de Vertu by Angelos Creations Olfactives

00:33:38:17 Figue de Vertu by Angelos Creations Olfactives

00:37:17:29 Pnoi by Angelos Creations Olfactives

00:41:05:27 Pothos by Angelos Creations Olfactives

00:51:17:07 Vetiveria Animalis by Angelos Creations Olfactives

00:53:48:16 Thebes by Sultan Pasha Perfumes

00:58:25:05 Karikia by Angelos Creations Olfactives

00:59:26:03 Tabac Libre by Angelos Creations Olfactives

01:07:26:21 Fougeriste by Angelos Creations Olfactives

Episode hosted by Steven Gontarski and Susannah Melvoin

Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

In this episode of It's Just Perfume, Steve and Dana hang out with Emma Vernon, host of the Perfume Room Podcast. Emma was in town hosting a live game show where people tried to find a partner through scent. This opened up two questions: What fragrance do we find irresistible on others? What fragrance do we put on when we want to be irresistible to others?

We took an Instagram poll asking the public to name the sexiest scent to them and the results were both predictable and surprising. 

Due to a technical issue a portion of this episode is missing its video component. We hope you enjoy the slideshow in its place as Emma, Steve and Dana take a deep dive into matters of scent and attraction.

Perfumes mentioned in this episode:

03:08:24 Mandala by Param Sara

08:17:18 El Morocco Discovery Set by El Morocco

12:42:27 Highball for Lucius B

23:45:09 Angels' Share by Kilian

24:23:11 Ambre Narguilé by Hermes *

24:54:27 Tihota by Indult

26:26:20 Salomé by Papillon Artisan Perfumes

28:59:06 Heliodose by Marlou

29:36:05 Un Bel Amour d'Eté by Parfum d'Empire

30:36:08 Jazz by Zernell Gillie Fragrances

33:04:04 Seduction Theory by Universal Flowering *

33:21:09 Daddy by Universal Flowering

37:30:13 Black Afgano by Nasomatto

39:23:00 Benjoin Boheme by Diptyque *

41:25:06 Bowmakers by DS & Durga

43:39:13 Hinoki by Monocle x Comme des Garcons

43:49:18 Gendarme by Gendarme

45:14:28 Fierce by Abercrombie *

46:35:22 Polo Blue by Ralph Lauren *

46:59:07 Drakkar Noir by Guy Laroche *

47:16:02 Cool Water by Davidoff *

48:03:14 Sicilian Leather by MEMO 

49:38:10 Molecule 01 by Escentric Molecules

50:12:09 Molecule 02 by Escentric Molecules

52:12:20 Molecule 01 + Iris by Escentric Molecules

52:33:01 Molecule 01 + Black Tea by Escentric Molecules

55:21:02 BoraBora by Giardini di Toscana

56:47:18 Champs Lunaire by Rogue Perfumery

58:55:07 Monoscent G by What We Do Is Secret

01:01:22:18 Patchouli by Santa Maria Novella

01:20:45:26 Gothic I by Loree Rodkin

01:05:11:27 Orphéon eau de parfum by Diptyque

01:07:04:28 Aristo Chypre by Infiniment Coty

01:08:22:18 Fleur du Mal by Dries Van Noten

01:09:06:11 Apricot Innocence by Simone Anreoli

01:10:51:03 La Panthere by Cartier (not LS)

01:14:10:08 Covert Musc by What We Do Is Secret

01:15:06:26 Terra Former by Braindead

01:16:03:10 Acqua di Sale by Profumum

01:16:35:23 Melograno by Santa Maria Novella

*Not sold by Luckyscent

Hosted by Steven Gontarski and Dana Kiley Buchanan

Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

In this episode of 'It's Just Perfume', Steve and Dana sit with Sebastian Jara, aka The Perfume Guy. Having made a name for himself in the perfume community through his well-established YouTube channel, Sebastian has introduced many to the niche world and continues to educate us on new releases. He recently added to his impressive list of accomplishments by spearheading ScentFest SF, the largest scent expo on the West Coast. 

Steve and Dana wanted to know how Sebastian got his start and which perfumes sparked his fascination with scent. They talk about his foray into YouTube and Sebastian's first encounters with Luckyscent. He describes the impetus for ScentFest and lets Dana and Steve try the stunning perfume collaboration he completed with perfumer Angelos Balamis. 

Perfumes mentioned in this episode:

03:41:18 Purple Fig by Vilhelm Parfumerie

04:08:02 The Ghost in the Shell by Etat Libre d'Orange

17:35:23 Cozé by Pierre Guillaume Paris, Parfumerie Generale

20:31:14 Musc Maori by Pierre Guillaume Paris, Parfumerie Generale

21:04:14 Le Musc & La Peau by Pierre Guillaume Paris, Parfumerie Generale

21:54:08 Avignon by Comme des Garcons: Incense

22:05:27 Costes Signature Candle by Costes

25:39:15 Relique d'Amour by Oriza Legrand

26:45:05 Horizon by Oriza Legrand

28:18:22 L'air du desert marocain by Tauer Perfumes

28:35:21 Ambre Precieux by Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier

28:39:19 Ambre Russe by Parfums d'Empire

36:48:11 Soma Panorama by Angelos Creations Olfactives

49:12:26 Philosykos by Diptyque

49:14:24 Premier Figuier by L'Artisan Parfumeur

51:56:15 Not a Perfume by Juliette Has a Gun

52:09:25 Monoscent G by What We Do Is Secret

53:59:24 Bois Imperial by Essential Parfums

56:10:27 Fleur du Mal by Dries Van Noten

57:24:02 Camomille Satin by Dries Van Noten

Hosts: Steven Gontarski and Dana Kiley Buchanan

Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

In this episode of 'It's Just Perfume' Steve and Dana chat live in front of an audience gathered at ScentFest, the West Coast's largest perfume expo. The weekend was filled with scent discoveries and the warmest meetups with fragrance lovers from around the world. Steve and Dana talk about their impressions of ScentFest then sniff perfumes featuring unusual notes with the audience. Oyster, pollen anyone?

The sniffing session was followed by a Q&A segment where Steve and Dana recalled their most nostalgic scents, revealed the notes and styles they'd like to smell more of and investigated Dana's perfume application methods that transform her into a walking scent sculpture.

Perfumes mentioned in this episode:

01:12:24 ScentFest Sample Pack

05:26:07 Still by CBCB

07:47:22 Cocoyster Bananita by Salum

12:15:26 Pony Boy by Jorum

13:01:05 Debaser by D.S. and Durga

13:14:25 Delulu by Oddity

14:05:10 Rhubarb Thief by Heretic

15:19:10 Gun Girl by CBCB

19:21:00 Molecule 01 + Patchouli by Escentric Molecules

20:26:09 Morel Map by Clue

20:35:04 Coven by Andrea Maack

21:15:25 Musc by Bruno Acampora

22:52:22 Moon Magic by Sorce

24:42:03 Vampire Husband by Sorce

24:45:00 In Dreams and Fairytales (Vanilla)

26:54:10 Metal Lavender by Matiere Premiere

27:12:11 La Nuit des 300 by Hellenist

28:39:16 Les Dieux aux Bains

29:48:23 Flower Glyph by Liis

32:53:03 Noel au Balcon by Etat Libre d'Orange

34:02:01 Unspoken Gesture by Jorum

35:28:05 Still by CBCB

43:26:20 Saskia by Grandiflora

43:28:16 Madagascan Jasmine by Grandiflora

44:11:00 Mossy Glen by Villa Erbatium

45:33:28 Neo-Animism by Mami Wata

48:02:21 Angelos Creations

48:26:26 Chypre Siam by Rogue

48:41:09 Aristo Chypre by Infiniment Coty

48:57:14 Spoturno Paris

Hosts: Steven Gontarski and Dana Kiley Buchanan

Recorded in San Francisco, 6/27/26

Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

22. Report from the Runway - A Conversation with Merle Ginsberg

In this episode of 'It's Just Perfume' Steve sits down with writer, fashion icon and one of the original judges of Ru Paul's Drag Race, the legendary Merle Ginsberg. From a young age, Merle expressed her identity through clothes and words, always keeping her senses, including scent, keenly attuned. Steve and Merle have talked perfume for many years at Scent Bar and have selected her signature scents together. They take a deep dive into her perfume history, stop by Scent Bar to discover a new scent and end the episode by pairing fragrances with outfits. 

Perfumes mentioned in this episode

06:53:15 Molecule 01 by Escentric Molecules

L'Eau d'Issey by Issey Miyake

Eau d'Hadrien by Annick Goutal

Filles en Aiguilles by Serge Lutens

21:54:00 Black Amber by Agonist

23:35:03 Coffee White Flowers by Bohoboco

28:39:19 Grev by Slumberhouse

33:50:09 Bo by Liis

40:00:02 Nuit Elastique by Premiere Peau

41:52:19 Vanille Camouflage by Dries Van Noten

42:36:02 Mantes La Jolie by Astier de Villatte

43:09:05 Dandelion Butter by Clue

44:07:10 Tokyo Bloom by The Different Company

44:55:24 Monoscent G by What We Do Is Secret

46:34:24 Green Vanille by Regime des Fleurs

47:03:00 Vanille Riviera by Maison Rebatchi

53:02:04 Carine by Carine Roitfeld

56:02:25 Crimson Rocks by Amouage

Be sure to keep up with Merle's fashion news on Loose Threads, a regular newsletter in The Hollywood Reporter, Hollywoodreporter.com

Host: Steven Gontarski

Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

In this episode of 'It's Just Perfume' Steve sits down with songwriter Steph Jones. Having written hits for artists such as Sabrina Carpenter, Blackpink, Selena Gomez and Jade she's one of the most in-demand talents in the music industry. Perfecting her impromptu songwriting skills at church, Steph naturally develops melodies and lyrics for people as she discovers their personal stories and soaks in their vibes. Along with her passion for tunes Steph has been fascinated by perfumes from an early age and tells Steve about her Hall of Fame fragrances and what they mean to her. 

Perfumes discussed in this episode:

Aromatics Elixir by Clinique

Tubéreuse Astrale by Maison Crivelli / Available on Luckyscent

Towédé by Notes de Bas de Paje

Gris Charnel by BDK / Available on Luckyscent

Gris Charnel by BDK / Available on Luckyscent

Lait Concentré by Chabaud / Available on Luckyscent

Sunflowers by Elizabeth Arden

CKin2U by Calvin Klein

Molecule 01 by Escentric Molecules / Available on Luckyscent

II (Deux) by Trudon / Available on Luckyscent

Tihota by Indult / Available on Luckyscent

B683 by Marc Antoine Barrois / Available on Luckyscent

Quentin Bisch

Poivre Samarcande by Hermes

Pacific Park by Simone Andreoli / Available on Luckyscent

Jardins de Misfah Extrait by Une Nuit Nomade / Available on Luckyscent

Fleur Narcotique by Ex Nihilo / Available on Luckyscent

Portrait of a Lady by Frederic Malle

Cool Water for Women by Davidoff

Black Tie by Celine

Molecule 01 + Iris by Escentric Molecules / Available on Luckyscent

Supernova by Andrea Maack / Available on Luckyscent

Carine by Carine Roitfeld / Available on Luckyscent

Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

On this episode of It's Just Perfume, Steve and Dana bask in the holiday glow and talk about their favorite warm, spicy, cozy scents to wear at festive parties or for quiet times at home. They discuss the biggest note trends of the year and smell through their favorite scents of 2025.

It's been a great year for perfume releases - what were some of your favorites in 2025?

Perfumes mentioned in this episode:

Bowmakers by DS and Durga

Ambre Liquide by Astier de Villatte

Hammersmith Tea & Biscuits by 4160 Tuesdays

Unknown Pleasures by Kerosene

Empire des Indes by Oriza Legrand

Myrrh Shadow by Bon Parfumeur

Molecule 01 + Cistus by Escentric Molecules

Ouarzazate by Comme des Garcons

Tobacco Memories by Chambre52

Encore Une Fois by Infiniment Coty

Japanese Whiskey by D'Annam

Monoscent G by What We Do Is Secret

Carine by Carine Roitfeld

Venice Rococo by Arquiste

Green Vanille by Regime des Fleurs

Blood Spider Orchid by Regime des Fleurs

Apricot Innocence by Simone Andreoli

Cedrat Ceruse by L'Artisan Parfumeur

Witchery by Sorce

In Dreams & Fairytales by Sorce

Vampire Husband by Sorce

Joyeux by Sultan Pasha Perfumes

Nightchild by Epichron

Taipei by One Day

White Rice by d'Annam

Dirty Rice by Borntostandout

Rice Makgeolli by Villa Erbatium

Delicious Rice Milk by Federico Cantelli

The LIttle Mermaid by The Mischief Academy

Kyoto by Le Gout de Peau

African Rooibos by Chris Collins

Savant by Chris Collins

Milk & Matcha by Obvious

London Fog by Brandt

Jasmine Freak by Room 1015

Bianco Latte by Giardini di Toscana

R & B by Zernell Gillie

Cafe des Delices by Maison Mataha

Hosted by Steven Gontarski and Dana Buchanan

Produced by Emi Brown and Claire Jelinek

Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

In this episode of It's Just Perfume, Steve sits down with legendary master perfumer Olivier Cresp. They talk about his distinctive style, which Cresp refers to as minimalist and figurative, valuing simplicity with key ingredients. 

They touch on Olivier's generational roots in the perfume industry and his upbringing in Grasse. He discusses the various steps of the creation of Thierry Mugler's Angel - an iconic perfume that forever changed the landscape of perfumery - and the various ideas that went into the formation of Akro, a brand Olivier started with his daughter Anais, celebrating life's guilty pleasures.

Perfumes mentioned in this episode:

Bake by Akro

Crush by Akro

Angel by Thierry Mugler

Juniper Sling by Penhaligon's

LIght Blue by Dolce & Gabbana

My Devotion by Dolce & Gabbana

Rise by Akro

Smoke by Akro

Hosted by Steven Gontarski

Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.